Noob with some paint questions 1/60 VF-1S unassembled kit

[KenjaminLinus]

Hello there! This is my first post, as I figured I would join here and consult the specialists on a project I am starting. I bought the Yamato 1/60 VF-1S unassembled kit with the intention of painting it to be Transformers Jetfire.

I'm new to customizing as a whole, but I'm mainly wondering if/when I would need to sand whenpainting, and at which step(s). From what I gathered from numerous sources, this is what I think my process should be for painting. Please let me know if you guys think this looks right:

clean parts - sand only where I'm painting with fine grit paper -mask - coat(s) of primer - coats of color - clear coat

Do I only sand before the primer, or should I also be doing it at different stages?

Any and all advice is greatly appreciated and thanks in advance!

Also note I got Tamiya TS spray paints

[GU-11]

Hey there. Compared to many others here, I'm a complete newbie when it comes to modeling and customizing, but I'm just going to give my two cents' worth, anyway.

There are several reasons you'd want to sand a model kit:

One, is to give the smooth plastic more "tooth" so that the paint adheres better to the surface.

Two, is after you prime the part and and want to smooth out any uneven parts.

Three, is that you're painting a transforming kit, and want there to be enough clearance between parts, so that they don't scrape against each other and cause paint chipping.

If the part has been primed and doesn't show an uneven surface, it doesn't need to be sanded IMO.

BTW, TS paints are lacquer paints, and should have enough tooth that it doesn't require primer for added adhesion...although it doesn't hurt.

Edited June 6, 2013 by GU-11

[Deadeye_281]

I've used the Tamiya spray cans quite a bit on Warhammer tanks. IMO, the combination of Tamiya primer (white or grey) followed up by one of their color variants works seamlessly and I almost never have to sand anything prior to. This combination won't over flood your panel lines either - even on the Yamato 1/60s. I typically apply detail work afterwards by brush (using Games Workshop water-based paints) directly onto the Tamiya lacquer without any issue as well. I haven't gotten into airbrushing yet, but you can achieve some great results with those Tamiya cans. Just be sure you take the time to mask your parts properly - Tamiya masking tape works great and even comes in different widths - and then just control your overspray and distance from the part.

[KenjaminLinus]

Thanks so much guys I really appreciate the tips!

[anime52k8]

I've used the Tamiya spray cans quite a bit on Warhammer tanks. IMO, the combination of Tamiya primer (white or grey) followed up by one of their color variants works seamlessly and I almost never have to sand anything prior to. This combination won't over flood your panel lines either - even on the Yamato 1/60s. I typically apply detail work afterwards by brush (using Games Workshop water-based paints) directly onto the Tamiya lacquer without any issue as well. I haven't gotten into airbrushing yet, but you can achieve some great results with those Tamiya cans. Just be sure you take the time to mask your parts properly - Tamiya masking tape works great and even comes in different widths - and then just control your overspray and distance from the part.

I second the recommendation for Tamiya spray Lacquers. Personally I don't like using cans but I like the quality of Tamiya Lacquers to the point that I drain the can content into jars and run that through an airbrush.

:edit:

BTW, best piece of advice ever for working with rattle cans: soak the can in warm water before you use it. The paint atomizes better when warm, which will make it go down more evenly and adhere to the surface better.

Edited June 7, 2013 by anime52k8

[GU-11]

I second the recommendation for Tamiya spray Lacquers. Personally I don't like using cans but I like the quality of Tamiya Lacquers to the point that I drain the can content into jars and run that through an airbrush.

I heard that decanting can be rather troublesome, though. You have to leave it in a container (bottle, etc.) uncapped at least overnight to let the pressure completely dissipate, and handle it like you would a stick of dynamite--VERY CAREFULLY. Any sudden movement might cause the paint to literally explode.

[Deadeye_281]

BTW, best piece of advice ever for working with rattle cans: soak the can in warm water before you use it. The paint atomizes better when warm, which will make it go down more evenly and adhere to the surface better.

I'll have to try this out.

[EXO]

I heard that decanting can be rather troublesome, though. You have to leave it in a container (bottle, etc.) uncapped at least overnight to let the pressure completely dissipate, and handle it like you would a stick of dynamite--VERY CAREFULLY. Any sudden movement might cause the paint to literally explode.

We're you repeating what happened to me from another post?

[David Hingtgen]

I'll have to try this out.

I go one step futher---get the water very hot, almost to boiling (I microwave it in a large cup). Then sit the can in the very hot water for a few minutes---the can should be ALMOST too hot to handle. Then use it. When the can has cooled down to simply "warm"----put it back in the hot water. The can will cool very rapidly just due to the physics of spraying.

[GU-11]

We're you repeating what happened to me from another post?

So that's where I heard that story from!

[anime52k8]

I heard that decanting can be rather troublesome, though. You have to leave it in a container (bottle, etc.) uncapped at least overnight to let the pressure completely dissipate, and handle it like you would a stick of dynamite--VERY CAREFULLY. Any sudden movement might cause the paint to literally explode.

funny story, the last time I had to strip the paint off a kit was because a bottle of blue paint exploded all over the kit while I was setting up to paint it. I've still got a big blue paint stain on my patio from that one.

What I do is right after it's all drained from the can into a glass jar, I drop in a couple toothpicks then start slowly stirring the paint until it stops fizzing. also warming the paint up helps it release gas faster (once the can is fully drained the paint will be ice cold, even if you heat up the can like David suggested). takes maybe 15 minutes 45 minutes to an hour of stirring.

Thing is, I typically double the amount of coverage I get from a can so that alone makes it worth it.

Edited June 16, 2013 by anime52k8

[GU-11]

funny story, the last time I had to strip the paint off a kit was because a bottle of blue paint exploded all over the kit while I was setting up to paint it. I've still got a big blue paint stain on my patio from that one.

What I do is right after it's all drained from the can into a glass jar, I drop in a couple toothpicks then start slowly stirring the paint until it stops fizzing. also warming the paint up helps it release gas faster (once the can is fully drained the paint will be ice cold, even if you heat up the can like David suggested). takes maybe 15 minutes of stirring.

Thing is, I typically double the amount of coverage I get from a can so that alone makes it worth it.

Just out of curiosity, you thin the paint before airbrushing?

[anime52k8]

Just out of curiosity, you thin the paint before airbrushing?

The Tamiya Spray Lacquer? no. It comes out of the can the right consistency to run through an airbrush.

[KenjaminLinus]

Thanks again for the feedback everyone! I have another question if you don't mind lol.

I'll be painting only things like the stripes on the chest, arms, wings, nosecone, etc since the unpainted white is perfect for what I'm doing. I also WILL be applying some of the decals that came with the set, like the outline of the cockpit and other random details. With that said, do you guys think I should do a clear coat over only what I'm painting, or just do a clear coat over the entire thing (painted parts, decals, and unpainted white plastic)?

Also what kind of clear coat do you recommend over both paint and decals, specifically lacquer paint. So much info haha it's so easy to get a little scatterbrained!

[GU-11]

I recommend clear coating the whole thing. Depending on what the finish is on the plastic, you might get a different finish on parts you've clear coated and the parts that you left alone.

I've only ever used Tamiya TS clear coats and Gunze's Mr. Clear UV cut, and both are pretty good.

[KenjaminLinus]

I think I am indeed going to follow your advice and go with a clear coat over the entire thing. Do you think I should clear coat after it's completely assembled, or just do it when it's in pieces after I do all the other painting and decal applying? Also, I'll be going with a semi-gloss finish.

I've heard you must be extremely careful with lacquer clear coats over decals and such, so I'll probably go with a lacquer one when I'm more experienced. Is there a suitable acrylic semi-gloss clear coat that will hold up to transformations and such? From what I read I'll be able to spray acrylic clear coats over lacquer paints without issue.

Thanks again so much to everyone for the feedback!

[petervenkman]

Im making a custom too and have picked up some tips for the clear parts, colour them with the appropriate sharpie pen iys a lot simpler than other methods such as using thinners on paints and dipping them. Curious how you get on with the canopy decal, i ended up masking mine, praying and spraying!

[GU-11]

I think I am indeed going to follow your advice and go with a clear coat over the entire thing. Do you think I should clear coat after it's completely assembled, or just do it when it's in pieces after I do all the other painting and decal applying? Also, I'll be going with a semi-gloss finish.

I've heard you must be extremely careful with lacquer clear coats over decals and such, so I'll probably go with a lacquer one when I'm more experienced. Is there a suitable acrylic semi-gloss clear coat that will hold up to transformations and such? From what I read I'll be able to spray acrylic clear coats over lacquer paints without issue.

Thanks again so much to everyone for the feedback!

TBH, the question of whether to clear coat a model assembled or in pieces is a more a matter of economics than anything else, IMO.

You'll almost certainly be using more of the spray when you spray the model in pieces. I've only ever clear coated a model kit in parts when building my Gundam Exia, to avoid dulling the clear green plastic GN drives or whatever they're called. Took up about a can UV Cut and two thirds of a can of Tamiya's flat clear coat. Pretty sure I'd have used far less spraying it as a completed kit.

As for decals, yes, be VERY careful when spraying lacquer-based clear coats (which most clear sprays are) over decals. In fact, certain Tamiya ones actually have labels on them warning against doing so.

I've never used acrylic clear coats before (couldn't get my hands on them) but the only ones I've heard of are sold in bottles, and have to either be airbrushed or hand-painted on. You can try using Future Floor Polish (now known as Pledge) as an alternative; it can even be hand-painted, since it self-levels.

Im making a custom too and have picked up some tips for the clear parts, colour them with the appropriate sharpie pen iys a lot simpler than other methods such as using thinners on paints and dipping them. Curious how you get on with the canopy decal, i ended up masking mine, praying and spraying!

I panel line mine the Danny Choo way!

Basically, I panel line the model using a Gundam fine marker and immediately wipe off the excess with tissue paper. Looks every bit as clean as a good panel wash, if not better. I've even managed to lightly weather the edges by adjusting the amount of ink I wipe off.