plastik Posted April 15, 2013 Posted April 15, 2013 (edited) So I can get a great deal on some valks that have some yellowing on the plastic from sun exposure. After doing some research on other toy forums it seems that 6% Hydrogen Peroxide is the weapon of choice. The process involves filling a jar with the H2O2, submerging the toy and leaving it in direct sunlight for a few days. From what I've seen the results were amazing. I primarily concerned with the effects on the tampo paint. What are your thoughts on this? Edited April 15, 2013 by plastik Quote
EXO Posted April 15, 2013 Posted April 15, 2013 Nope... sorry. There's no magic cure. This has been discussed exhaustively in these forums because of all the yellowing plastics in people's collection but the results show that the peroxide whitened valks start to yellow again at a faster rate. It's not recommended. Quote
Gakken85 Posted April 16, 2013 Posted April 16, 2013 (edited) Where did you have them stored and for how long? I wonder what direct sunlight means. But yeah, yellowing is a chemical process. It's not something you cant clean off. Edited April 17, 2013 by Gakken85 Quote
MechTech Posted April 16, 2013 Posted April 16, 2013 Like EXO said, its an old conversation. The peroxide cleans off the top layer and leaves it easier to yellow. It's the plastic composition itself that controls the yellowing. Even people putting them in boxes complain of yellowing. Sorry man, can't outrun age! - MT Quote
GU-11 Posted April 17, 2013 Posted April 17, 2013 (edited) I've heard that heat is also a contributing factor to yellowing. I guess painting them up is the only true cure. I just wish Kawamori would stop giving his Valks white paint schemes. Edited April 17, 2013 by GU-11 Quote
Reïvaj Posted April 17, 2013 Posted April 17, 2013 Everything that is pure white yellow sooner or later, even paint. Quote
Gakken85 Posted April 17, 2013 Posted April 17, 2013 I guess. I see 80's white toys that are still as white as the day you bought them, so Idk. I think it's like any industrial process. The good plastics last longer, and the crap at the bottom of the barrel decays quicker. Just hope your version isn't made with the bottom of the barrel crap. Quote
valid Posted April 18, 2013 Posted April 18, 2013 hey decaying plastic is a good thing! it's good for the earth... go green LOL Quote
GU-11 Posted April 18, 2013 Posted April 18, 2013 There's this tip I learned from an airbrushing article. By adding a very small amount of blue to the white paint (as in at least 1:20 blue to white ratio), the yellowing of the white is countered by the tinge of blue. Supposedly, this virtually prevents any yellowing of the paint. Never tried this myself, but the theory is sound. Quote
JET7 Posted April 19, 2013 Posted April 19, 2013 tried it on my hepatitis yellowed jetfire... on his arms.. no dice. plus.. makes the plastic brittle. boo on you white bots Quote
Chronocidal Posted April 19, 2013 Posted April 19, 2013 There's this tip I learned from an airbrushing article. By adding a very small amount of blue to the white paint (as in at least 1:20 blue to white ratio), the yellowing of the white is countered by the tinge of blue. Supposedly, this virtually prevents any yellowing of the paint. Never tried this myself, but the theory is sound. I can vouch for this actually, my father got the same sort of tip from someone while painting our house. The trick he used is to mix a tiny bit of black into the white paint he used to paint a few areas in our bathroom. Years later, the touchups he did with the modified paint were still bright white, but the surrounding area that he painted before adding the black had yellowed. Quote
MechTech Posted April 20, 2013 Posted April 20, 2013 Ha ha ha!!! I'll have to try that tinting tip. I've used all kinds of paints and they all yellow. Plastics for -collectors toys- (versus kids toys) should have a UV blocker added to them. That costs more money and when cheaper plastics are used, that's what happens. Unlike food which has labels on it with ingredients; plastics don't have it so you can't tell unless you work for the company. - MT Quote
shdwfx2000 Posted April 21, 2013 Posted April 21, 2013 krylon makes a clear coat that is a uv protectant. incidentally, i have had good luck with that fusion product of theirs that they claim bonds in a unique way. i used it to make my victory leo white again. the white was damn near the exact match for the parts of leo that hadn't turned. Quote
Valkyrie addict Posted April 22, 2013 Posted April 22, 2013 LOL at the jaundiced JETFIRE, haha! I've had clear coat yellowd on me Will try that small tinting trick when I get a chance. Quote
EXO Posted April 22, 2013 Posted April 22, 2013 ... FYI, I got a bunch of TF toys... I love 'em! Quote
spanner Posted July 21, 2015 Posted July 21, 2015 hehe! Funny! looks like poorly applied fake tan! Quote
TexasCanuck Posted August 21, 2015 Posted August 21, 2015 Has anyone had any luck trying the retr0bright process on plastics of other colors besides white? I realize this toy isn't exactly Macross related, but my Gakken 1/8 Mospeada Ride Armor has yellowed only in the spots where it was exposed to light through the display windows on the box. Quote
vsim Posted August 21, 2015 Posted August 21, 2015 Has anyone tried a UV inhibitor to help prevent the yellowing at all? I have this stuff for my cars, but have never tried it on my toys. http://www.zainostore.com/product/Z-CS.html Quote
Loop Posted August 21, 2015 Posted August 21, 2015 Sounds interesting, do they have any of that stuff that does not contain gloss? Quote
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