Skull 001 Posted December 22, 2003 Posted December 22, 2003 As light as it may seem it is a very durrable toy. I have transformed mine many times with no problems at all. Some have had problems wtht eh backpack but I guess I have been lucky and have had no problems with anyof my 1/48's. These are truely the best toys. Quote
blackjek Posted December 22, 2003 Posted December 22, 2003 Also. When the Valkyrie is in Battroid mode you'll notice two small hinges you're supposed to open up (they're close by the arm pit area). Don't matter fidling with them.....they NEVER stay in place. U refering to those plates above the legs/arms in in fighter mode that is to cover the its side in battroid mode? ard the arm pit area?? if thats the one, yeah man. it sucks big time. cant hold in place. anyone who can do it care to share? Quote
adrainx Posted December 23, 2003 Posted December 23, 2003 got my very first 1/48 set yesterday.1J+FP. i was trying my best to transform the valk as carefully as possible and i met my first obstacle--gettting the arm joints to swing out fully when transforming from fighter to gerwalk mode. there wasnt much space so i had to push them real hard before they snapped into the correct final position...is that normal?i know i shldnt be using excesive force and now i am wondering how i am even goin to swing back the arms w/o breaking the joint Quote
Graham Posted December 23, 2003 Posted December 23, 2003 got my very first 1/48 set yesterday.1J+FP. i was trying my best to transform the valk as carefully as possible and i met my first obstacle--gettting the arm joints to swing out fully when transforming from fighter to gerwalk mode. there wasnt much space so i had to push them real hard before they snapped into the correct final position...is that normal?i know i shldnt be using excesive force and now i am wondering how i am even goin to swing back the arms w/o breaking the joint You do not need to and should not use force for any part of the 1/48 transformation. When swinging (I prefer the term pivoting) the arms from fighter to Gerwalk mode, there is a stop point halfway. You need to slightly pull the shoulder joint upwards, in order to be able to push them past the stop point. Graham Quote
Sumdumgai Posted December 23, 2003 Posted December 23, 2003 I remember getting freaked out about pivoting the legs to swing them down in fighter mode, I was afraid of turning them the wrong direction and hearing a *crack*! After having read all the stories about this or that breaking on the 1/48 the first time I swung the legs down out of fighter mode, my heart kept stopping because of those cracking sounds the legs make! Quote
Jin_Kune_Do Posted December 23, 2003 Posted December 23, 2003 Welcome to your new addiction, trust me it wont be your last and i tell you....its all downhill from here hehehe Your wallet wont forgive you -Jin Ps. Congratulations Quote
adrainx Posted December 24, 2003 Posted December 24, 2003 got my very first 1/48 set yesterday.1J+FP. i was trying my best to transform the valk as carefully as possible and i met my first obstacle--gettting the arm joints to swing out fully when transforming from fighter to gerwalk mode. there wasnt much space so i had to push them real hard before they snapped into the correct final position...is that normal?i know i shldnt be using excesive force and now i am wondering how i am even goin to swing back the arms w/o breaking the joint You do not need to and should not use force for any part of the 1/48 transformation. When swinging (I prefer the term pivoting) the arms from fighter to Gerwalk mode, there is a stop point halfway. You need to slightly pull the shoulder joint upwards, in order to be able to push them past the stop point. Graham thks for the reply graham... as for the pivot point do u mean that SOLE single tiny piece of rod that holds the swinging arm joint to the plane? u mean i can pull the joint upwards to push them past the stop point w/o breaking that small rod at the pivot point?it sure looks very breakable to me....i better be super careful when i attempt to transform to other modes...meanwhile it stays in gerwalk.... one hell of a masterpiece of a toy Quote
dyowelb Posted December 25, 2003 Posted December 25, 2003 i don't if this has been posted.... Here's the linlk Quote
Göönk Posted December 25, 2003 Posted December 25, 2003 hum hum is it a link to the 1/60 transformation ? Quote
mbs357 Posted December 26, 2003 Posted December 26, 2003 (edited) Indeed, it is. I just got my 1/48 1J... I'm so happy I can't feel my face... However, I need some assistance with the sticker placement, and transformation. Any links to guides? I just want to make sure I do it right...I could go by the manual...but I'm scared. O_O Edit* Just tried to get it to Battroid...it whooped my rear. I barely got it between Gerwalk and Battroid, got scared, couldn't figure out what to do, and then just barely got it back to fighter. =p I put the gear down, put the gunpod and some missles on...it looks nice perched on my stereo. Maybe tomorrow I'll worry about the stickers. This thing is awesome, but scary. O_O; Edited December 26, 2003 by mbs357 Quote
Pointer Posted December 26, 2003 Posted December 26, 2003 Also. When the Valkyrie is in Battroid mode you'll notice two small hinges you're supposed to open up (they're close by the arm pit area). Don't matter fidling with them.....they NEVER stay in place. U refering to those plates above the legs/arms in in fighter mode that is to cover the its side in battroid mode? ard the arm pit area?? if thats the one, yeah man. it sucks big time. cant hold in place. anyone who can do it care to share? I get them to lock for posing only, but not for playing. Here's how I do it, after having completed the transformation to Battroid, with the side cover hinges already swung outf (sorry for my humble try to explain something in English): First, make sure the swingbar for the legs lies flat against the backplate and wings. It must be locked in between the tabs at the aft end of the backplate. While the Battroid stands on ground, put your thumbs into the space between the chest plate and back plate, below the side covers. Then, with your index fingers, slightly push the chest plate downwards, while pushing the side covers up with your thumbs. This will bring the covers to the correct height relative to the holes in the back of the chest plate. You may then have to correct the horizontal position of the covers by moving them sideways with your thumbs, until they click in. That done, you should reinforce the lock by slightly pressing the chest and back plate together. It is best to reach under the chest plate and press the intake fins directly, instead of pressing on the chest plate itself, as the intake fins are where the side covers lock. If you want to pick the valk up, you should take it at the chest and back plate, so they are pushed together while you are holding your valk. For my two valks, this works even with Fast Packs, although they don't make anything easier regarding the side covers. I hope this will help. I am a n00b, after all, with only two valks total. -- Pointer Quote
mbs357 Posted December 26, 2003 Posted December 26, 2003 I only have one and it's a Christmas present. =p Valk Exchange got it here in 3 days! Quote
Rick Randy Posted December 31, 2003 Posted December 31, 2003 My advice to anyone with clumsly big sloppy fingers trying to transform a 1/48 is carry a piece of stiff wire ideally one that is plastic coated like ones used to bind toys. i find it very useful if you want to put those annoying "pins" in the nose back in their place after you remove the metal thing that holds the legs from the nose.try it;) Quote
Rick Randy Posted January 1, 2004 Posted January 1, 2004 mbs357 I tried tweezers, but my fingers are too clumsy for em. From "regretable" experiences I sorta scratched my valk with tweezers and dental tools used to sculpt. My Hikaru vf1-a has a deep slash next to the landing gear cover. (it took 2 shots of Jim b to even look at it.) Since then I used a plastic coated wire bending the wire into a small hook and fish out the parts from their respective small crevices. Quote
Pointer Posted January 1, 2004 Posted January 1, 2004 I am using a plastic covered paper clip for that, which I bent into a hook form. Quote
mbs357 Posted January 1, 2004 Posted January 1, 2004 I have a weird set uf tweasers, they're shaped like a small pair of scissors and have broad heads. Not much chance of scratching. And I'm VERY careful with my knife. =p Quote
bake_art Posted January 3, 2004 Posted January 3, 2004 I just use my GU-11 gunpod strap to fish out those "pins" in the nose, those rings at the ends of the strap fit perfectly over the pins. Quote
F-ZeroOne Posted January 4, 2004 Posted January 4, 2004 Small tip: when attaching/detaching the FAST pack laser cannons and/or missile pods, remember that the front part of these pieces are detachable - removing the front parts, inserting/detaching the back parts seems to make things a little easier as at least on my Fokker -1S, its a bit of a tight connection going into the backpack. Quote
brainiac_08 Posted January 4, 2004 Posted January 4, 2004 be gentle everything will fall into place if you do it right follow the instructions until you become familiar with the transfomation process J.J. Quote
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