Beginner's Model Building Construction BASICS

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14 hours ago, wm cheng said:

To the people who use Flory washes - I love it after discovering it.  Now however a few years later, I find some of them really thick, what do you use to thin them down again - is it just water?  They seem to bead up more than flow.  Also even after a lot of shaking, I find a lot of the pigments seem to be clumping and not mixing finely enough (or at least you can see the "grit") - at least not like it was when it was new a few years ago (it was smooth like watery paint when new).  Is there a proper way of "refreshing it"?

water with a teeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeny-tiny drop of dish-soap [per bottle] would be my first-try. 

also I would recommend a couple of marine-grade ball-bearings or nuts [marine-grade essentially means they're rust-proof, but testing for yourself is always recommended... caveat emptor etc...] to help agitate and homogenize the wash in the bottle.

[Convectuoso]

I'd like to ask:

Will applying a top coat on a variable kit ruin its ability to transform?

My idea is to apply a matte coat to fix the Decals in place

 

[MechTech]

Hi Convectuoso! It will if it gets into the joints. If you can keep the joints masked off, that should be safe. A clear coat on a transformable model IS a GREAT idea since you want to seal down the decals so they do not rub off easily. It's keeping it out of the joints that's fun. IF you can build parts, seal them and then assemble them (masking off the finished parts) that helps. Carefully look at your model and think about where the coating could flow into. I hope that helps. - MT

[Convectuoso]

6 hours ago, MechTech said:

Hi Convectuoso! It will if it gets into the joints. If you can keep the joints masked off, that should be safe. A clear coat on a transformable model IS a GREAT idea since you want to seal down the decals so they do not rub off easily. It's keeping it out of the joints that's fun. IF you can build parts, seal them and then assemble them (masking off the finished parts) that helps. Carefully look at your model and think about where the coating could flow into. I hope that helps. - MT

Thanks for the advice

I'll let you know how it goes

Edited May 12, 2020 by Convectuoso

[MacrossJunkie]

I was wondering if anyone had any personal experience with AMMO products by MIG Jimenez based out of Spain.

https://www.migjimenez.com

They have a whole host of products for weathering effects and washes. I'll be honest, I felt like a kid in a candy store when I discovered this site. I bought a few things here and there to try out, but I'm curious if anyone else has tried any of the stuff on that site and whether they had good results or not.

[MechTech]

MJ - I would also ask in the "What's lying on your workbench" thread too for more feedback. I haven't personally used them, but I hear good things about them from my fellow modeler's club members meeting. I hear some are good and some will clog your airbrush. There are also some good videos out there on how to use them too. Hopefully you get better feedback from our members - MT

[wsna]

I am not sure where this question should go but I figure this thread might be good as any...I have a bunch of 1/144 TomyTec model kits that I hope to get around to putting together. I used very light touches of a medium "Insta-Cure" Cyanocrylate adhesive in some ones I put together a few years ago. While this adhesive does work, it is quite messy if you get it wrong. Would any of you folk know of a better adhesive that will be nicer to these pre-painted kits? I recently marred the paint of a diecast that I was trying to repair as I miscalculated how much glue that I needed...

I haven't in a long time put together any plastic kits in a very long time. With the constraints of pre-finished kits, the margin of error seems to be a lot smaller. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

[Sanity is Optional]

Just use a cyanoacrylate with a better tip design so you can apply it more accurately.

The Tomytec kits are pre-painted (IIRC), so using a normal plastic cement won't work.

[derex3592]

I built a lot of those back when they came out. I just used regular Tamiya Liquid or Extra Thin Liquid Cement. Never had an issue. They are still perfect to this day in my display cabinets. I never had to use CA glue on them. They are EXTREMELY well designed and manufactured kits. I think most of, if not all the parts were undergated on the sprue trees as well, so take note of that when clipping them off the trees. Highly recommend magnifying glasses to assemble them if you're like me and your eyes aren't what they use to be! 

 

I only wish they had made more!!! Really wanted the entire Delta 31 squad in fighter mode! 

 

[MechTech]

@wsna Welcome to MW! I was just about to post the text below when Derex posted an update. His method would be better. But if it's not what you want...

Sanity is right, that is a good idea. You can get a tube with better control or buy tips separately from hobby and craft shops. I just get a .07oz (2 gram) tube of "The Original Super Glue" (Red Cap). I started using it lately because the applicator doesn't seem to get clogged as easy.

The alternative is to get an applicator as posted in the link below. If you're a little crafty, you can make your own. Get a needlepoint needle and file/grind down half of the eye. The open area will hold a tiny amount of glue and only release it once touched to a surface - but be fast before the glue dries. I made one of these. You can stick the needle in an old paintbrush handle or something for better control. You have to scrape the glue off with each use as it dries. I hope that helps! - MT

https://www.micromark.com/Micro-Glue-Applicator_2

[derex3592]

That's actually really funny @MechTech, I was just browsing the micromark website yesterday and looked at that very tool and thought hmmm....I might need one of those for PE parts for a certain ship model I have in my future! 

 

I could spend a small fortune on that site! 

Edited October 22, 2020 by derex3592

[MechTech]

4 hours ago, derex3592 said:

I could spend a small fortune on that site! 

Too late! I already did! They have great stuff too! I HIGHLY recommend them. Over the years I've gotten their power tools (disc sander, drill press, band-saw and mill). Their stuff has variable speed motors so styrene doesn't melt when being machined. The smaller sizes fit on your workbench without eating up real estate. - MT

[derex3592]

46 minutes ago, MechTech said:

Too late! I already did! They have great stuff too! I HIGHLY recommend them. Over the years I've gotten their power tools (disc sander, drill press, band-saw and mill). Their stuff has variable speed motors so styrene doesn't melt when being machined. The smaller sizes fit on your workbench without eating up real estate. - MT

AND I just noticed they carry paint now too! shhhhh...they aren't out of stock yet like most places so keep it on the DL until I get my order in! 

 

[MechTech]

@derex3592 Hopefully you can get a coupon or discount. I got a bunch of Tamiya paint on sale last year. - MT 

[wsna]

Thank you all so much for the advice!

I should have mentioned this somewhere, but I have been a lurker for quite some time. MW somehow come across my radar when I first saw some Graham's posts on the 1/72 Yamato VF-11B. Yes, it was that long ago! So shy of going for the Bandai Chogokin DX Vf-1s, I think I joined somewhere when Yamato started previewing the 1st generation VF-1s.

While my variable toy collecting ended a while ago, I have some kits stowed away. I did a while ago use a toothpick (yes, I did whittle it down as needed) for (3) of my F-22s. They came out alight except for that fourth one which I bungled pretty badly. I do have some Tamiya thin cement. 

All though that glue applicator will save a lot of trees...The last time I visited MicroMark, a miniature table saw landed on my porch. 

I thought it a bit funny...the wife not too much.

I plan on giving both a go in the neat future.

-WS

[Thom]

There was a post a few pages (and several years back) about attaching clear parts, most of which was already answered.

But this is for wingtip lights, whether kit-supplied or making your own to replace solid molded ones. For an example, the ones on Tamiya's 1/48 Ki-46 are molded solid, so you can either paint them silver and then clear red/green - or cut them out. And to replace them I use plexiglass. I bought a small sheet from my local hardware store for another purpose, but found that it doesn't fog at all with CA!

So, just cut out a few chunks, drill and paint to make the bulbs...

...and then glue them in place with your superglue.

After some sanding with finer and finer grit to polish, you end up with some nice wing tip lights!

Thom

 

 

[derex3592]

Nice!

[MechTech]

I can see clearly now...the haze is gone Great idea!

[pengbuzz]

On 5/29/2021 at 7:01 PM, Thom said:

There was a post a few pages (and several years back) about attaching clear parts, most of which was already answered.

But this is for wingtip lights, whether kit-supplied or making your own to replace solid molded ones. For an example, the ones on Tamiya's 1/48 Ki-46 are molded solid, so you can either paint them silver and then clear red/green - or cut them out. And to replace them I use plexiglass. I bought a small sheet from my local hardware store for another purpose, but found that it doesn't fog at all with CA!

So, just cut out a few chunks, drill and paint to make the bulbs...

...and then glue them in place with your superglue.

After some sanding with finer and finer grit to polish, you end up with some nice wing tip lights!

Thom

 

 

Neat idea!! I'll have to try that sometime!

[Klee]

Anyone had success with pledge as a clear coat before decal and panel lining? It always comes out way too orange peeled texture for me, and the tutorials I've read says to spray it right out the bottle.

[MechTech]

Welcome, Klee! The coating has different names in different countries. In America, Pledge is a spray can furniture polish (SC Johnson company). I assume you're talking about the version that is a clear acrylic coating for floors - just making sure. It should dry crystal clear.

How are you applying it? Via airbrush? Brushing? Dipping? I've heard that it can yellow if the coat is much too thick. The orange peeling is also usually a sign that it is reacting to something else. Is the undercoating thoroughly dry? If using a brush, brushes never really come clean. There may be something still in the brush causing you problems.

Just throwing some ideas out there... - MT

[Chas]

First of all, I know some folks thin it before application  but I shoot it straight from the bottle.

When you apply Future, you're better off applying a number of light coats than trying to do one heavy coat. When spraying straight try lowering the pressure below 15psi,( 15 is the max that I use with it ) and spray closer to the work.

Edited September 30, 2021 by Chas
spelling/clarity

[Klee]

3 hours ago, MechTech said:

Welcome, Klee! The coating has different names in different countries. In America, Pledge is a spray can furniture polish (SC Johnson company). I assume you're talking about the version that is a clear acrylic coating for floors - just making sure. It should dry crystal clear.

How are you applying it? Via airbrush? Brushing? Dipping? I've heard that it can yellow if the coat is much too thick. The orange peeling is also usually a sign that it is reacting to something else. Is the undercoating thoroughly dry? If using a brush, brushes never really come clean. There may be something still in the brush causing you problems.

Just throwing some ideas out there... - MT

Oops forgot to clarify it's the Pledge with future floor gloss formula. I'm airbrushing it at 15 PSI after cleaning my brush with paint thinner and it still causes the orange peel effect. I may have to take the whole thing apart and do a deep clean 🤔. Thanks

2 hours ago, Chas said:

First of all, I know some folks thin it before application  but I shoot it straight from the bottle.

When you apply Future, you're better off applying a number of light coats than trying to do one heavy coat. When spraying straight try lowering the pressure below 15psi,( 15 is the max that I use with it ) and spray closer to the work.

Ah okay, I've been using 15 PSI and doing 1 coat. I'll try lowering it to 12 and doing multiple coats. Thanks.

[pengbuzz]

3 hours ago, Klee said:

Oops forgot to clarify it's the Pledge with future floor gloss formula. I'm airbrushing it at 15 PSI after cleaning my brush with paint thinner and it still causes the orange peel effect. I may have to take the whole thing apart and do a deep clean 🤔. Thanks

Ah okay, I've been using 15 PSI and doing 1 coat. I'll try lowering it to 12 and doing multiple coats. Thanks.

Yeah, Future/ Pledge can be a bit tricky; I haven't used it for some years now due to cost and availability.

[MechTech]

Aha! It might be the paint thinner reacting. Try cleaning your airbrush with isopropyl alcohol or Tamiya X-20A acrylic thinner and let it dry out. Originally, ammonia is used to clean the coating itself off floors. So that might work (but stink bad). The original formula is water based. I've heard you can thin it with water, alcohol / X-20 (up to 50/50), but most people airbrush it straight. It shouldn't be a heavy coat, but wet enough to level itself out. Get those plastic spoons out and practice Let us know how it works for you. - MT

[electric indigo]

I haven't tried it yet, but this looks like a cool method to fix silvering of decals after the application:

https://hiqparts.info/archives/1350

(run it through google translate)

[MechTech]

@electric indigo Thanks for posting that! I'll have to try it. I'm used to poking holes to release air in stickers, but not to allow the setting solution to suck a decal downward on a model. - MT

[Big s]

1 hour ago, MechTech said:

@electric indigo Thanks for posting that! I'll have to try it. I'm used to poking holes to release air in stickers, but not to allow the setting solution to suck a decal downward on a model. - MT

I’ve done that back in the day. I had made the mistake of using dull coat over a kit after finishing it. Then since I found some cool decals I put those on over the dull. The microsol leveled it, but it did still silver. There was an older hobby forum that I checked on and they recommended the pin poke method. It saved that kit. It also is a good method when laying decals over rivets or small holes and lines on the surface. The real grade Char Zaku has a bunch that go over odd surfaces and that pin method really works wonders for those surface details. Most of the time you won’t even see the pin prick and after some top coat the pin marks are gone

[chyll2]

Last time, it is really hard to get hasegawa water slide decals. Like only people in Japan can do it, has there been a change recently that give us access to it?

 

Reason for asking is I just want to check if I can forego buying the 1/72 hasegawa VF-25 kit just to get the decals.

[electric indigo]

Here's a suggestion for a receipe for stealthy paintjobs:

That's Tamiya's new 1/48 F-35 btw.

[MechTech]

Thanks for posting that! Some of the F-35 maintainers were telling me they no longer outline the panel areas (white panel outlines on paint). So if you're building an "older" F-35, it will have the white outlines. The newer ones are all gray. So if you're a stickler for years and paint schemes, double check your reference photos. - MT

[wm cheng]

On 11/5/2022 at 12:43 PM, electric indigo said:

Here's a suggestion for a receipe for stealthy paintjobs:

That's Tamiya's new 1/48 F-35 btw.

Thanks @electric indigo does he say what his ratios are?

[electric indigo]

He implies that the mix should be adjusted so that the metallic effect is just visible.

[wsna]

Hello MWers - I would like some sound advice and/or tips about getting glue residue off clear plastic windshields. I was moving a bottle of cyranoacrylate (medium setting) glue and the top got loose from me and left a large dollop on the windshield of one of my diecast cars that I keep near my desk. Really bad on me for not checking if was secure. I managed to wipe off a good bunch of it as it happen but the damage was done. 

I've been looking searching around for tips and products that work. Has anyone come across any effective product or techniques? If you have before & after photos, please post!

 

[Big s]

44 minutes ago, wsna said:

Hello MWers - I would like some sound advice and/or tips about getting glue residue off clear plastic windshields. I was moving a bottle of cyranoacrylate (medium setting) glue and the top got loose from me and left a large dollop on the windshield of one of my diecast cars that I keep near my desk. Really bad on me for not checking if was secure. I managed to wipe off a good bunch of it as it happen but the damage was done. 

I've been looking searching around for tips and products that work. Has anyone come across any effective product or techniques? If you have before & after photos, please post!

 

You can try sanding off any leftovers and then use gradually higher grit until it’s near polishing, then try some gloss and see if it does anything to take away the fogging. If it does and it’s still not smooth enough, the try sanding a bit more and use a polishing compound and see if that works. 
Once super glue gets on clear parts, sometimes the fogging never goes away, but sometimes it can be saved. You may have to disassemble it enough to get the clear windshield out and work both the exterior as well as interior 

good luck and hope this helps