Repair advice for VF-25 v1?

[Dio]

Long story short, my VF-25 Ozma (v1) is crumbling like gingerbread. Particular areas like the upper swing bar hinges and the little bridge pieces that go over the shoulders are breaking out around the pivot points, and where the cracks aren't already present there's definitely stress marks. It seems to be a pretty pervasive issue across the toy, and I'm confident that it wasn't overstressed by rough handling.

Is it a lost cause to try supergluing these back together? Am I better off casting replacements instead, or looking for a junker to swap them out of?

Before anyone says anything, replacing it with a renewal is not even a remote possibility

[Dio]

Adding photos. You can see there's 3 locations along each side where cracks have started, and at the end of the left-hand swing bar the ring actually broke out completely (the piece is sitting next to it).

[MechTech]

That sucks! And as much as they charge for it too! As long as the internal hinge is metal and the outer loop plastic, you can use some of Plastruct's weld or Bondene to glue the plastic. It WILL break again. I reccomened then taking ABS or styrene sheet strips and wrapping them around outer plastic loop of the hinge. Either way, the value of the toy is affected (broke or fixed), but at least it will be functional again.

If you use styrene, you may need to use Bondene. Styrene does not stick to ABS well with solvent glues. Superglue works great, but will probably freeze up the joint. Hope that helps! - MT

[Loop]

I think veef showed these affects of the v1 design on the follow up video he made of the VF-25S Renewal.

[VF5SS]

It was a horrifying experience. I don't think there's much that can be done given how the toy is designed.

[aceoftherebellion]

Very, very careful application of superglue into the fine cracks and fractures may work well, as long as you keep the joint in motion as it sets to prevent it from seizing the joint itself. I've had very good luck repairing toys that were worse off than that, but it does take a bit of finesse. Best of luck!

[MechTech]

That's POOR engineering! It should not be ABS (especially if ti's a bad batch). They should have used metal and/or POM to make those parts (which of course cost more). - MT

[Dio]

Yeah it's the oddest thing, my v1 VF-25G has none of the cracking, just the 25S.

Careful disassembly, removal of a pin and some automotive-grade superglue seem to have done the trick and Ozma's back on his stylish metal feet in the Detolf now. I sanded down some of the interference points that were causing stuff to bind up and crack during motion (like Mechtech said there were some very questionable design decisions in this toy), and it's a little smoother now to transform.

Hopefully my 171 and VB-6 won't have any similar issues...

[MacrossJunkie]

Is there anyone whose v1 VF-25S didn't crack or crumble by now? I left mine alone and found that the chest hinge crumbled on its own in addition to the crack on the wing glove that formed not long after I had gotten it. The plastic they used for it is complete crap. Mine was the one that came with the armor, btw. Not the stand alone.

[MechTech]

It sounds like a poor grade/batch of ABS for sure. It happens and I've even seen it crack in R/C car chassis like it was peanut brittle. No, peanut brittle is stronger! And they charge how much for these!? Sorry guys. If the joints don't have to have to have friction in them, I use silicone oil (like they use in R/C car shocks). I use it on styrene without it crazing the plastic (vegetable oils and petroleum oils can soften or craze plastic). Hopefully it's safe on ABS which is a more robust plastic. The smoother action may take the stress of the plastic joint. - MT

[VF5SS]

Bandai got a good deal on all the leftover plastic from Yamato's first VF-11 toy.

[Astro_BS-AS]

I have one... and its still in one piece. Some superglue here and there (loose articulations) but the plastic is still in good shape.

And, if I may say, I do play with my Valkyries...

Maybe a faulty batch?