Bandai DX YF-30 Chronos

[Xigfrid]

Great shots and poses!

[spanner]

Fantastic photos Gundam! Great poses!

[derex3592]

Finally got around to panel lining my 30. Came out good. ProModellers Dark Dirt clay based wash was applied with a small paint brush and excess was wiped off with a barely moist finger/cloth.

[spanner]

looks great Derex! very nicely done!

I wish I had the courage to do this to one of my Valks! sadly I don't.. im just too scared to try it!

[CRYO]

Happy shooting for 1 night, See all pics in my blog!

With your recent change in taste into Macross, will you buy this bird again?

[derex3592]

looks great Derex! very nicely done!

I wish I had the courage to do this to one of my Valks! sadly I don't.. im just too scared to try it!

You really shouldn't be Spanner. It's super easy and 100% reversible if you're not happy. I recommend trying it on a Bandai 25 first as they are super glossy and that is the best place to start for a first try. I always start on the underside of one wing to see how the wash is going to flow over the surface. The glossier the easier. The older Yamato stuff is a little harder because of the matte finishes.

[spanner]

How easy is it to remove the color from the panel lines if you stuff it up or change your mind?

[Gundam@EFSF]

With your recent change in taste into Macross, will you buy this bird again?

No... too skinny IMO, I prefer VF-19 with more muscle~

[derex3592]

How easy is it to remove the color from the panel lines if you stuff it up or change your mind?

Easy. The wash is clay based, even after its dry, get a toothbrush, a small cup of water, and remove from the panel lines. I use a Qtip to clean up any areas that look a little "dirty" from pure white areas after t get the lines crisp. Experiment around with it. It will stain matte pure white valks.....if you leave it on long enough. Which is cool if you're going for a weathered look. However, with the Bandai glossy stuff, you're safe from that.

[no3Ljm]

Great updates and photos, guys.

[spanner]

Easy. The wash is clay based, even after its dry, get a toothbrush, a small cup of water, and remove from the panel lines. I use a Qtip to clean up any areas that look a little "dirty" from pure white areas after t get the lines crisp. Experiment around with it. It will stain matte pure white valks.....if you leave it on long enough. Which is cool if you're going for a weathered look. However, with the Bandai glossy stuff, you're safe from that.

I'd definitely like to give it a go but maybe on something that won't matter if I stuff it up.. I do have a spare DYRL VF-1A Hikaru with damaged shoulders that I could use I guess..

[Loop]

Hey spanner, a tip I once read:

Pick up as many cheap kits as you can and practice on those. There are plenty on the market, and it sounds like something I would do before I started customizing my higher end toys with no previous experience.

I have a random cheap gundam kit a guy at work gave me because he did not want it anymore. I will use that when I get the itch.

[Saburo]

@derex3592 the panel lining looks great, maybe one I'll have the guts to try on one my valks.

[spanner]

Hey spanner, a tip I once read:

Pick up as many cheap kits as you can and practice on those. There are plenty on the market, and it sounds like something I would do before I started customizing my higher end toys with no previous experience.

I have a random cheap gundam kit a guy at work gave me because he did not want it anymore. I will use that when I get the itch.

I actually have a Revell 1:72 scale Super Hornet kit that a friend gave me for xmas a little while back which I hadn't ever got around to assembling which I might use as a Guinea Pig for practice!

[MacrossJunkie]

Personally, after many years of trying this and that, from the Promodellers washes to thinned enamel paints, I've settled on using oil washes using oil paints mixed to whatever color I want the panel lines to be (usually a mix of black and white oil paints for various shades of gray) and turpenoid. The capillary effect on this mixture is really good so it reduces the amount of work needed by quite a bit. Just touch the tip of a small brush to a panel line and it fills the panel line and other ones connected to it. Alternatively, just slather it all over the surface if lazy. You can leave it on for days like that if you wanted. Just get a paper towel and dab some of the turpenoid on it, and it wipes right off the surfaces even after leaving it on for days and and all that's left is in the panel lines, assuming they aren't too shallow like Arcadia ones tend to be. For the Yamato/Arcadia ones like the VF-4G and YF-19, I had to resort to using a mechanical pencil. The thinned enamel paint method works similarly to the oil wash method, but you have less time to work with it and it can stain if you leave it on too long.

[no3Ljm]

Personally, after many years of trying this and that, from the Promodellers washes to thinned enamel paints, I've settled on using oil washes using oil paints mixed to whatever color I want the panel lines to be (usually a mix of black and white oil paints for various shades of gray) and turpenoid. The capillary effect on this mixture is really good so it reduces the amount of work needed by quite a bit. Just touch the tip of a small brush to a panel line and it fills the panel line and other ones connected to it. Alternatively, just slather it all over the surface if lazy. You can leave it on for days like that if you wanted. Just get a paper towel and dab some of the turpenoid on it, and it wipes right off the surfaces even after leaving it on for days and and all that's left is in the panel lines, assuming they aren't too shallow like Arcadia ones tend to be. For the Yamato/Arcadia ones like the VF-4G and YF-19, I had to resort to using a mechanical pencil. The thinned enamel paint method works similarly to the oil wash method, but you have less time to work with it and it can stain if you leave it on too long.

Hey MacrossJunkie. Thanks for this pointers. So basically, you preferred the oil wash more than the enamel wash? I have those Tamiya Panel Line Accent that I use from before. And so far, it's giving me good results. Though I don't topcoat it. Is oil wash more advisable on using it without the topcoat. And it doesn't stain like the enamel wash when you left it too long? Thanks.

[MacrossJunkie]

Hey MacrossJunkie. Thanks for this pointers. So basically, you preferred the oil wash more than the enamel wash? I have those Tamiya Panel Line Accent that I use from before. And so far, it's giving me good results. Though I don't topcoat it. Is oil wash more advisable on using it without the topcoat. And it doesn't stain like the enamel wash when you left it too long? Thanks.

I've used it prior to clear coating and after gloss clear coating. Works either way. It wipes clean off with some turpenoid on a paper towel or rag or q-tip (for smaller areas).

I wouldn't do over a matte clear coat though. That would make panel lining more difficult. Any matte clear coats should be applied after the panel lining and any other weathering is finished.

It doesn't react with the Future clear coats and, thus far, has had no noticeable reaction with the factory paints for Bandai and Yamato/Arcadia from my experience. I find it to be super easy to use, and like I said, I've sometimes been lazy and left it on for days before I got back to something and still wipes right off with turpenoid with no staining... something I can't say with using thinner and enamel paints. Using black or gray enamel mixed with thinner, once the thinner dries, it's harder getting the enamel paint off without some staining, particularly on whites.

Never tried that Tamiya Panel Line Accent stuff before. I looked at the link and it seems to be essentially a thinned enamel wash. This one line in the description seems cause for slight concern "May cause plastic to become brittle". But I suppose that could true with the enamel panel lining I used to use as well.

Edited July 21, 2015 by MacrossJunkie

[no3Ljm]

I've used it prior to clear coating and after gloss clear coating. Works either way. It wipes clean off with some turpenoid on a paper towel or rag or q-tip (for smaller areas).

I wouldn't do over a matte clear coat though. That would make panel lining more difficult. Any matte clear coats should be applied after the panel lining and any other weathering is finished.

It doesn't react with the Future clear coats and, thus far, has had no noticeable reaction with the factory paints for Bandai and Yamato/Arcadia from my experience. I find it to be super easy to use, and like I said, I've sometimes been lazy and left it on for days before I got back to something and still wipes right off with turpenoid with no staining... something I can't say with using thinner and enamel paints. Using black or gray enamel mixed with thinner, once the thinner dries, it's harder getting the enamel paint off without some staining, particularly on whites.

Never tried that Tamiya Panel Line Accent stuff before. I looked at the link and it seems to be essentially a thinned enamel wash. This one line in the description seems cause for slight concern "May cause plastic to become brittle". But I suppose that could true with the enamel panel lining I used to use as well.

Thanks MacrossJunkie. I was just looking for something easy that doesn't need somehow of a topcoat. And yeah, I always get that the Enamel thinner can make the plastic brittle warning ever since. So you think turpenoid is the best bet for plastic even though I don't topcoat it afterwards? The only reason why I don't want to topcoat is that I don't want to scratch the coat when transforming it. Esp if the topcoat available for me is just the spraycan ones and not custom-thinned via airbrush.

[MacrossJunkie]

Thanks MacrossJunkie. I was just looking for something easy that doesn't need somehow of a topcoat. And yeah, I always get that the Enamel thinner can make the plastic brittle warning ever since. So you think turpenoid is the best bet for plastic even though I don't topcoat it afterwards? The only reason why I don't want to topcoat is that I don't want to scratch the coat when transforming it. Esp if the topcoat available for me is just the spraycan ones and not custom-thinned via airbrush.

That particular brand of Turpenoid (Weber's) that I linked is generally considered safe for plastics used in models and toys. I can't speak to whether other ones are just as safe or not. From what I've read in the past, they're not all the same and so I specifically got the Weber's brand Turpenoid. I think you should be good with this. After you finish panel lining and cleaning it up, I'd probably say to let it dry for a few days so you're not accidentally rubbing it off or wicking some out of the panel lines with your fingers, just in case. Worst case scenario, you'd just have to touch up the panel lining a bit if some does manage to rub off, but that shouldn't really happen except for really shallow panel lines. The Bandai ones are deep enough that you wouldn't need to worry about it.

[no3Ljm]

That particular brand of Turpenoid (Weber's) that I linked is generally considered safe for plastics used in models and toys. I can't speak to whether other ones are just as safe or not. From what I've read in the past, they're not all the same and so I specifically got the Weber's brand Turpenoid. I think you should be good with this. After you finish panel lining and cleaning it up, I'd probably say to let it dry for a few days so you're not accidentally rubbing it off or wicking some out of the panel lines with your fingers, just in case. Worst case scenario, you'd just have to touch up the panel lining a bit if some does manage to rub off, but that shouldn't really happen except for really shallow panel lines. The Bandai ones are deep enough that you wouldn't need to worry about it.

Thanks again, MacrossJunkie. Really appreciate it. So basically I can still use it even there's no topcoat afterwards?

[MacrossJunkie]

Thanks again, MacrossJunkie. Really appreciate it. So basically I can still use it even there's no topcoat afterwards?

Yup.

[no3Ljm]

Yup.

Thank you thank you, sir.

[zzgundam010]

Gundam@EFSF, welcome to Macrossworld. Great photos!

[Kyp Durron]

Am I the only one who thinks there seems to be a lack of maneuvering thrusters on this particular valk?

Edited August 3, 2015 by Kyp Durron

[Loop]

Am I the only one who thinks there seems to be a lack of maneuvering thrusters on this particular valk?

Lol, I notice the same thing. It looks like if it was in space it would forever fly forward.

Is there a source to figure out if this is only an atmospheric fighter? I did not complete Macross 30 but it was based on a planet the whole time I played it.

Edited August 3, 2015 by Loop

[Valkyrie Driver]

I'm sold, I want one now. I haven't played the game, though I would love to. Now if I had more money... Also to find a source!

[Golden Arms]

The YF-30 is a must own for Valkyrie toy collectors. Bandai could've done a few things better with the release, but it's still one of their top releases to date. The 19 advance is probably tops in my book for their release followed by the YF-30 and then maybe the 29 Rod and Ozma versions.

Edited August 4, 2015 by Golden Arms

[mickyg]

I know you mean 29 and not 27 but wow, how awesome would a 27 in Rod or Ozma colors look?

[Saburo]

I know you mean 29 and not 27 but wow, how awesome would a 27 in Rod or Ozma colors look?

Quite awesome! If they did release the 27 in either or both colors scheme I would buy without hesitation.

[ChaoticYeti]

[derex3592]

I dunno.....I have yet to fall for the 30.....I'm a 29 guy for sure over the 30. The 30 just looks.....I dunno..to "normal" in fighter mode and the giant missile rack in battroid just doesn't do it for either. Maybe a different paint scheme would help. It's not an ugly bird by any means, it's just kind of like the girl at the bar you take home and you end up just being friends with, but you never really want to date her. LOL.

[Golden Arms]

One of the things I adore about the 30 is the pose ability of the toy in battroid mode. Double jointed arms, check, waist swivel on a Valk!!!, Check, double jointed knees, Check. Unfortunately most of us valk collectors don't do a great job of really showcasing some of the toys articulation which is where the 30 is nearly unmatched.

I'm a fighter mode guy first and battroid mode second and I think the fighter mode on the 30 and 29 for me are a neck and neck tie.

[Kyp Durron]

There will probably be a VF-30 at some point.

Edited August 4, 2015 by Kyp Durron

[Valkyrie Driver]

I think I'll probably get a 27 before a 30, just because I really want an enemy mech from frontier. Also the 27 has that look of an attack aircraft with a BFG, that just needs to be in my collection. The 30 is definitely got a place, I just need to prioritize...

[Golden Arms]

You won't go wrong either way. The 27 will definitely be much easier to purchase as they are soon to release their second variant soon. So pricing,stock and availability on the 2ndary market should be partially considered.