DX Chogokin VF-171 Cannon Fodder

[MacrossJunkie]

I may be interested in the part that folds out from under the cockpit in battroid mode since that part on mine is missing.

Edit:

The part illustrated here

Edited July 2, 2013 by MacrossJunkie

[ArchieNov]

To those that have the broken/cracked black part with the NUNS logo, can you explain why exactly that part breaks? Mine is still intact fortunately, but I can't seem to understand where enough stress would be coming from to break it.Does the stress come from the transformation process? Or in a particular mode?

[MacrossJunkie]

It's with how that part attaches over the metal shoulder assembly. I think somehow either the metal bumps are too large or the indentation on the plastic may be too shallow and the plastic too thin. Too much pressure and stress seems to cause the part to split and come apart. I haven't heard of this happening on the EX variant and of the two CF 171's I have, it doesn't appear to be an issue my good one. I also tried to super glue the broken piece together, but the stresses are too great and the glue just won't hold when I try to put it back on. If it's going to happen, it would have happened already or at least show stress marks. It doesn't matter if you never take it out of the box or if you transform it.

[grymg]

When transforming back to fighter, I don't try to snap in the arms into the back anymore I just leave them loose, I believe this is what causes the stress on the black NUNS pieces.

Edited July 2, 2013 by grymg

[anime52k8]

Has anyone tried loosening the screw that holds the part together? it seems like the part is always breaking right across where the hing is. I remember someone mentioned that the hinge on the part felt tighter than their 171EX.

[typhoon]

Feel sorry for everyone suffering the issues with this release.

I have two, with no dramas ...so far. What I'm surprised with is the RVF-25, which is probably my best quality Bandai macross release.

I wonder what changed? And I hope the upcoming releases follow the trend of the RVF.

[anime52k8]

You'd think if anyhting the RVF-25 would be the one with all the QC issues. After all there's been how many runs of VF-25 toys using those molds by now? on the RVF-25 I'd chock it up to mold degradation and be done with it, but on the VF-171, they've done all of one run before hand. I don't see how things go down hill that fast out of nowhere.

[TCracker]

agreed. Both my renewal RVF25 are free from any issues. *knocks on wood*

so far I have 1 CF171 problem free, 1 with the triangle snapping issue and 1 with some oddity on the leg swivel where is no friction whatsoever.

[Duymon]

I have 6 CF vf-171's without any issues. Guess I got lucky lol

Edited July 2, 2013 by Duymon

[Scyla]

My VF-171CF has a crack on the "U" of NUNS on the left shoulder. The crack is on the middle part of the shoulder filler piece. To prevent further damage I unscrewed the assembly and lowered the pressure that way. Hope nothing breaks *knock on wood*

[zzgundam010]

My VF-171CF has a crack on the "U" of NUNS on the left shoulder. The crack is on the middle part of the shoulder filler piece. To prevent further damage I unscrewed the assembly and lowered the pressure that way. Hope nothing breaks *knock on wood*

I tried to do that but it is not obvious to me how to get to the screw. Can you provide instruction?

[grymg]

The blackpiece + shoulder covers are basically compressed against the metal shoulder joint, not screwed into it. So I just yanked mine off. Then you can swivel the black piece fully around to get access to the tiny screw and loosen it a tad. Next pop it back into place.

[Scyla]

What he said!

[wm cheng]

I haven't received my VF-171 CF yet (sent out last Thursday though) - so I haven't seen it in person, but the piece seems to be essentially hollow beneath. Would it help relieve the stress if it was filled in and made solid? Has anyone ever used this stuff; JB Weld http://www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-waterweld/ - this waterweld stuff is like steel when it hardens, I used it on my back bumper licence plate holder where the screws stripped the plastic mounts, I rebuilt the plastic with this stuff and re-threaded it and there are a lot of stresses on it, but its holding up amazing (I use it as a handle to open and slam my trunk everytime). I'd love to see some photos on how to remove the part carefully or is it pretty straightforward once you see the part?

[anubis20]

I haven't received my VF-171 CF yet (sent out last Thursday though) - so I haven't seen it in person, but the piece seems to be essentially hollow beneath. Would it help relieve the stress if it was filled in and made solid? Has anyone ever used this stuff; JB Weld http://www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-waterweld/ - this waterweld stuff is like steel when it hardens, I used it on my back bumper licence plate holder where the screws stripped the plastic mounts, I rebuilt the plastic with this stuff and re-threaded it and there are a lot of stresses on it, but its holding up amazing (I use it as a handle to open and slam my trunk everytime). I'd love to see some photos on how to remove the part carefully or is it pretty straightforward once you see the part?

Screw it im gonna try it, im going to try and avoid damaging the NUNS logo and ill repaint part of the black piece.

[takatoys]

I had cracks on both shoulder black parts. After close inspection (taking the metal pin out and unscrewing) came to the conclusion that it is a plastic quality issue. Apparently, those parts did not cook well or the mold was over used (blame on Alto's VF-17)The screws and pins apply force no doubt but the black plastic should be strong enough to hold well. I used crazy glue very carefully to fill the cracks and it is holding well, but I would love to have original replacements.

[zzgundam010]

The blackpiece + shoulder covers are basically compressed against the metal shoulder joint, not screwed into it. So I just yanked mine off. Then you can swivel the black piece fully around to get access to the tiny screw and loosen it a tad. Next pop it back into place.

Just yank it out? I am afraid that I may damage it while going so. So I may actually damage it while trying to prevent it from being damages:-(. I will take another close look at it before I decide if I am going to proceed or not. Mine is OK now. First do no harm.

[Scyla]

Well you could transform it back when you but the shoulders back into place without sliding the parts under the chest plate outwards. Then you should be able to get to the screw. Of course then you have to move the shoulders which could cause damage to the part. So it's your call.

I'm not telling you to do one or the other because I don't want to be the one to blame if something goes wrong.

Edited July 2, 2013 by Scyla

[grymg]

Just yank it out? I am afraid that I may damage it while going so. So I may actually damage it while trying to prevent it from being damages:-(. I will take another close look at it before I decide if I am going to proceed or not. Mine is OK now. First do no harm.

What I did exactly was remove the green shoulder piece first. It is just pegged into the black piece with two tiny pegs.

After that was off, then I had full access to the screw on the black piece. Sorry for the confusion.

[anime52k8]

I had cracks on both shoulder black parts. After close inspection (taking the metal pin out and unscrewing) came to the conclusion that it is a plastic quality issue. Apparently, those parts did not cook well or the mold was over used (blame on Alto's VF-17)The screws and pins apply force no doubt but the black plastic should be strong enough to hold well. I used crazy glue very carefully to fill the cracks and it is holding well, but I would love to have original replacements.

That's just the thing though, how can there be mold wear when it's only been used to do one other run of toys? did they make the molds out of chewing gum or something? the VF-25 molds have been used way more often and they haven't had these kinds of problems.

[erikos0311]

Man did I just go thru the most difficult 20 minutes of my bandai collecting days!

- Nothing broken, no QC issues, no broken shoulders or anything!

I got my VF-171 in the mail today and I was sweating all the way to my desk wondering

If I was going to be let down and find my valk in shambles.!

After the initial look I noticed the NUNS triangles where ok and started to transform it to

Battroid praying it would not break on me.

But after 20-25 minutes it took me to transform it...

VICTORY!!!!!

Boy did I get lucky and this baby is gorgeous!

Shoulders nice and tight, some light scratches on the wings but overall very very pleased with the quality of it.

I feel bad that some of you guys here got lemons, but I guess it was just luck of the draw.

I would've been pissed if I had found a new valk in bad shape.

[MacrossJunkie]

I haven't received my VF-171 CF yet (sent out last Thursday though) - so I haven't seen it in person, but the piece seems to be essentially hollow beneath. Would it help relieve the stress if it was filled in and made solid? Has anyone ever used this stuff; JB Weld http://www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-waterweld/ - this waterweld stuff is like steel when it hardens, I used it on my back bumper licence plate holder where the screws stripped the plastic mounts, I rebuilt the plastic with this stuff and re-threaded it and there are a lot of stresses on it, but its holding up amazing (I use it as a handle to open and slam my trunk everytime). I'd love to see some photos on how to remove the part carefully or is it pretty straightforward once you see the part?

That sounds like some pretty impressive stuff. I may need to get some.

Screw it im gonna try it, im going to try and avoid damaging the NUNS logo and ill repaint part of the black piece.

Please let us know how it works out!

[Loop]

Man did I just go thru the most difficult 20 minutes of my bandai collecting days!

- Nothing broken, no QC issues, no broken shoulders or anything!

I got my VF-171 in the mail today and I was sweating all the way to my desk wondering

If I was going to be let down and find my valk in shambles.!

After the initial look I noticed the NUNS triangles where ok and started to transform it to

Battroid praying it would not break on me.

But after 20-25 minutes it took me to transform it...

VICTORY!!!!!

Boy did I get lucky and this baby is gorgeous!

Shoulders nice and tight, some light scratches on the wings but overall very very pleased with the quality of it.

I feel bad that some of you guys here got lemons, but I guess it was just luck of the draw.

I would've been pissed if I had found a new valk in bad shape.

Either you mis-transformed it or you are missing the mid section filler piece the folds out from under the cockpit..

[Matt Random]

Probably just didn't do that step since the little chest covers and the little thrusters on the shoulders don't appear to deployed either. The cockpit piece always ends up popping back into the closed position about a million times while I'm trying to transform it.

[Loop]

Probably just didn't do that step since the little chest covers and the little thrusters on the shoulders don't appear to deployed either. The cockpit piece always ends up popping back into the closed position about a million times while I'm trying to transform it.

I can get the cockpit piece to fit pretty snug, but it can slide on you when handling it in the mid section.

[erikos0311]

Either you mis-transformed it or you are missing the mid section filler piece the folds out from under the cockpit..

yeah, its not straight because I took it off the stand right before the picture!

and yeah the little thrusters are out now! lol

thanks thou!

[Loop]

Make sure you get the chest panels too

[Shukenzero]

Guys a little heads up. Don't buy the 171s on the cheap. Heard from my supplier he knew someone who bought discounted stock and found broken parts. Apparently the cheaper stock is below decent QC, which is why it suddenly came to market. Not fake or used either. Beware before buying. Might be luck of the draw, but the guy got two lemons out of three.

[TCracker]

Guys a little heads up. Don't buy the 171s on the cheap. Heard from my supplier he knew someone who bought discounted stock and found broken parts. Apparently the cheaper stock is below decent QC, which is why it suddenly came to market. Not fake or used either. Beware before buying. Might be luck of the draw, but the guy got two lemons out of three.

damn...but thanks for the heads up. I am thinking of getting just one more.

[Astro_BS-AS]

Guys a little heads up. Don't buy the 171s on the cheap. Heard from my supplier he knew someone who bought discounted stock and found broken parts. Apparently the cheaper stock is below decent QC, which is why it suddenly came to market. Not fake or used either. Beware before buying. Might be luck of the draw, but the guy got two lemons out of three.

We´ll see when it cames... I won´t take that as a fact.... yet.

[wm cheng]

Well, I got mine from HLJ at 11,900Y and it came pretty perfect. I don't see any stress marks on those infamous black NUNS triangles (can't really figure out where the stress will come from either or why it might crumble like some of the photos around here) the part doesn't seem stressed when transforming. I am very happy with it - especially the low price I got it at. It wasn't even a Valk I wanted to buy, but with MacrossJunkie's amazing paint/weathering and the low price, I couldn't resist and now I'm really glad I took the chance. I'm a sucker for dark valks and Bandai really outdone themselves with the tampo printing on this, even the "no steps"! It also looks great in Battroid mode (I'm not even a fan of that mode) - much stockier, muscular than the anorexic VF-25s.

Man, its hard to get the arms aligned properly (so many joints!) to fold the arms over the back plate back into aircraft mode! The left shoulder cover always seems slightly higher than the surrounding surface in aircraft mode - something must be slightly mis-aligned, I am assuming its the arm joints underneath. Any tips?

[Scyla]

I assume the triangle pieces can be stressed when you use the shoulders to rotate the metal shoulder joint underneath when transforming the Valkyrie back to Fighter-Mode. You know when you try to align the arms so that they fit onto the back plate. Then a shearing force would be applied to the shoulders and since the shoulder pauldrons are mounted to the shoulder via the black tirangle pieces the applied force would be transfered to the triangle pieces them self.

I don't know how to describe it better. I have the feeling that much more force can be applied trying to align the arm joints during the transformation then rotating the arm for posing.

[Pedro2k6]

Well, I got mine from HLJ at 11,900Y and it came pretty perfect. I don't see any stress marks on those infamous black NUNS triangles (can't really figure out where the stress will come from either or why it might crumble like some of the photos around here) the part doesn't seem stressed when transforming. I am very happy with it - especially the low price I got it at. It wasn't even a Valk I wanted to buy, but with MacrossJunkie's amazing paint/weathering and the low price, I couldn't resist and now I'm really glad I took the chance. I'm a sucker for dark valks and Bandai really outdone themselves with the tampo printing on this, even the "no steps"! It also looks great in Battroid mode (I'm not even a fan of that mode) - much stockier, muscular than the anorexic VF-25s.

Same here...no problem with mine....i love transforming this valk...i do that like 20 time...and never see a mark of strees in the nuns triangule....y get my at amiami for 12.500 yens....i think the stress y coming went you change from batroid to fighter y the doble shoulder joint...i avoid that taking out the shoulder when i transfoming. Well i always take it out.

P.D: sorry for my lazy english

[Actar]

Just received my VF-171, a little reward for myself.

It's a fantastic valk and a brilliant design. No QC issues. No pieces missing and the triangles are good.

HOWEVER. The darn canopy hinge (the one you have to pull up) was so damn tight that it was impossible for me to lift up the cockpit hatch. I applied a little too much force and SNAP. Off the canopy went. Brilliant. Fantastic. Had the toy for only 5 minutes and it broke.

I thought I got it wrong and applied force at a bad angle or something, but I used a pair of pliers to pull out the hinge and found that it required significant force to pull out. It's as if some glue got into it and stuck it in place.

Oh well... In the end, I just put the pilot figure in and glued the canopy shut. No openable cockpit, but at least everything else is fine...

Edited July 6, 2013 by Actar

[1/1 LowViz Lurker]

This is a pretty big thread so I haven't read everything in it. But has bandai made a official announcement regarding defective batches?

Maybe we can get them to give us hints about which might be the bad batch and when/if they ever re-release this one again in future we can easily figure out which are the fixed releases and which are the older "bad" ones, just like we did with the yamato toys.

Sharing the info and having a hint system is going to save people a lot of pain. If say they change the look of the box art on the second release of vf-171 in future, then an ebay seller who is selling you the newer fixed-rerelease version can then reassure a buyer that "these are the newer fixed releases" to avoid confusion and doubt in a buyer's mind by showing the new box. (although if they were sneaky they could tamper with it and put an old release inside a newer release box but it is better than nothing)

Maybe there is an ex-yamato or ex-toynami employee working at bandai now and they are the new guy in charge of QC. lol

Edited July 6, 2013 by 1/1 LowViz Lurker