Rune Posted December 7, 2003 Share Posted December 7, 2003 If anyone can refer me to a good pen/pencil for weathering/panel lines for 1/48 or 1/60s I would really appreciate it. -Rune Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EXO Posted December 8, 2003 Share Posted December 8, 2003 AS for pencil, I thnk most people use regular No.2/HB pencils. Either mechanical or just make sure they're sharp and then coated with clear coat. Pens, I've seen people talk about regular drafting pens. Coated after wards. Gundam markers are what most modellers use. I don't really like the black lines on white valks that I see arounds here. Maybe a really light great would look better. Of course coated after wards is always best. Hope that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rune Posted December 8, 2003 Author Share Posted December 8, 2003 Thanks for the help Exo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoBe-Patt Posted December 9, 2003 Share Posted December 9, 2003 (edited) yeah, I used the gundam markers for my panel lines. I used a 0.05 or even a 0.04 tip. Those will get in really nice with the lines. I just use alcohol on tissue to wipe off the mess ups and if I used too much of the marker in one area. Edited December 9, 2003 by BoBe-Patt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rune Posted December 9, 2003 Author Share Posted December 9, 2003 (edited) Keep'em coming guys! Thanks for the info Boba-Patt Edited December 9, 2003 by Rune Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magnus Posted December 20, 2006 Share Posted December 20, 2006 What do you use to coat the valk with after panel lining with a pencil? Do you just spray it all over generally, or apply the coat by hand to the lined parts? Isn't there a fear that the clear coat may "gum up the works"? I've just gotten a new VF-0A and want to line it, so any tips on this would be appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fly4victory Posted December 20, 2006 Share Posted December 20, 2006 Use Future acrylic liquid floor polish and an airbrush. Have also read that some people have brushed it on. What do you use to coat the valk with after panel lining with a pencil? Do you just spray it all over generally, or apply the coat by hand to the lined parts? Isn't there a fear that the clear coat may "gum up the works"? I've just gotten a new VF-0A and want to line it, so any tips on this would be appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wicked Ace Posted December 20, 2006 Share Posted December 20, 2006 (edited) Use Future acrylic liquid floor polish and an airbrush. Have also read that some people have brushed it on. Future can be brushed on, as it is self-correcting. It's pretty hard to screw up with Future; however, for those that don't know, sealing your panel lines with Future will give you project a glossy finish. Edited December 20, 2006 by Wicked Ace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lonely Soldier Boy Posted December 21, 2006 Share Posted December 21, 2006 Do Gundam Markers need clear coating? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magnus Posted December 21, 2006 Share Posted December 21, 2006 I wouldn't think so, i've used them in the past and they're pretty resilient to handling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lonely Soldier Boy Posted December 23, 2006 Share Posted December 23, 2006 I'll buy a bunch, then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom64ss Posted December 31, 2006 Share Posted December 31, 2006 Check out this thread- http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=2152 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wicked Ace Posted January 7, 2007 Share Posted January 7, 2007 Another option is the Crayola twistable colored pencils. Comes out chalky but subtle -- no drawn-in anime look. Once you get the consistency you desire, you can spray a top coat on, however my project in the picture is not top coated (still a work in progress). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scream Man Posted January 7, 2007 Share Posted January 7, 2007 i use a lead pencil with a very thin tip. works fine. do a little rub over with soemthing (Hell i use an erasor) to get any smudges off and its fine. Ive played with all my valks since i panel lined em, and they are fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
do not disturb Posted January 8, 2007 Share Posted January 8, 2007 a little late to the party but i recently panel lined one of my valks using a mechanical pencil and did what could be considered "weathering". first i filled in every panel line using my trusty pencil, then used a soft toothbrush and brushed over the entire valk. basically the toothbrush lightened all the panel lines and spread the excess graphite all over the valk creating a dirty weathered look using a minimal amount of effort. the great thing i like about it is the weathering is totally random, giving the valk a more used looked as opposed to the painted model look. i'll post a pic tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
do not disturb Posted January 9, 2007 Share Posted January 9, 2007 pics! [attachmentid=39476] [attachmentid=39477] comp pics [attachmentid=39478] [attachmentid=39479] the weathering comes out dirty and random giving it a more used look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom64ss Posted January 9, 2007 Share Posted January 9, 2007 pics! [attachmentid=39476] [attachmentid=39477] comp pics [attachmentid=39478] [attachmentid=39479] the weathering comes out dirty and random giving it a more used look. How did you strip the original paint? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
do not disturb Posted January 9, 2007 Share Posted January 9, 2007 How did you strip the original paint? originally i used brasso and steel wool to remove the paint, heres the link.... http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=17535 then brian(GutsandCasca) came across this other stuff and apparently its a lot easier than my method... http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=19425 i bought the chameleon remover way back when but i still haven't tried it out. i'd already removed the paint from the stormshadow valk(the white one above) as well as my TV max and TV ben using the brasso steel wool method so there was no need for it. as far as which works better, i'd probably say the chameleon stuff(even though i haven't used it yet) since it doesn't require much effort other than letting it soak. and whatever the chameleon stuff doesn't take off, you could always use the brasso steel wool method. hope this helps, if you need any more info, shoot me a PM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wicked Ace Posted January 10, 2007 Share Posted January 10, 2007 the weathering comes out dirty and random giving it a more used look. Many times, the simplest of methods yield the best of results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom64ss Posted January 10, 2007 Share Posted January 10, 2007 originally i used brasso and steel wool to remove the paint, heres the link.... http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=17535 then brian(GutsandCasca) came across this other stuff and apparently its a lot easier than my method... http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=19425 i bought the chameleon remover way back when but i still haven't tried it out. i'd already removed the paint from the stormshadow valk(the white one above) as well as my TV max and TV ben using the brasso steel wool method so there was no need for it. as far as which works better, i'd probably say the chameleon stuff(even though i haven't used it yet) since it doesn't require much effort other than letting it soak. and whatever the chameleon stuff doesn't take off, you could always use the brasso steel wool method. hope this helps, if you need any more info, shoot me a PM. Cool. Thanks dude. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghostryder Posted January 10, 2007 Share Posted January 10, 2007 How did you strip the original paint? Another method that I've used that is also safe for heatshields, is soaking in ethanol for about 5-20 minutes, with periodic toothbrushing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lonely Soldier Boy Posted January 23, 2007 Share Posted January 23, 2007 a little late to the party but i recently panel lined one of my valks using a mechanical pencil and did what could be considered "weathering". first i filled in every panel line using my trusty pencil, then used a soft toothbrush and brushed over the entire valk. basically the toothbrush lightened all the panel lines and spread the excess graphite all over the valk creating a dirty weathered look using a minimal amount of effort. the great thing i like about it is the weathering is totally random, giving the valk a more used looked as opposed to the painted model look. i'll post a pic tomorrow. Hey, Do Not Disturb: Doesn't the graphite leaves a metallized finish to it? I feel tempted to use that technique myself, but I'm not sure about the results. From the pictures it looks great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hingtgen Posted January 23, 2007 Share Posted January 23, 2007 Well, since weathering on real planes often is "paint peeling to reveal the metal beneath", a metallic effect is usually seen as good. Also, most of the darker streaks you see on a plane? It's dark because of all the graphite used for lubricating the hinges. Nothing makes a plane look like it's got graphite streaks than real graphite. Hydraulic fluid is red, but the streaking is dark because of the graphite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skull-1 Posted January 23, 2007 Share Posted January 23, 2007 (edited) Well, since weathering on real planes often is "paint peeling to reveal the metal beneath", a metallic effect is usually seen as good. Not always David. There are lots of surfaces and parts that are composites nowadays so there is no metal color beneath. Just a note. Also, most of the darker streaks you see on a plane? It's dark because of all the graphite used for lubricating the hinges. Nothing makes a plane look like it's got graphite streaks than real graphite. Hydraulic fluid is red, but the streaking is dark because of the graphite. Gap filler is also a cause of obvious panel lines. Most panel joints are sealed then painted making them nearly invisible from even a short distance. Model panel lines are 99% overdone. Edited January 23, 2007 by Skull-1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
do not disturb Posted January 29, 2007 Share Posted January 29, 2007 Hey, Do Not Disturb: Doesn't the graphite leaves a metallized finish to it? I feel tempted to use that technique myself, but I'm not sure about the results. From the pictures it looks great. not really, it actually just make the valk look dirty/dusty as hell. i can't really describe it because it comes out so random and my pic taking skills suck to boot. if anything, try it on the underside of the wing and see if you like the results. if you don't like it, just take the wing off and wash it with soap and water, the graphite comes right off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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