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Posted

AS for pencil, I thnk most people use regular No.2/HB pencils. Either mechanical or just make sure they're sharp and then coated with clear coat.

Pens, I've seen people talk about regular drafting pens. Coated after wards.

Gundam markers are what most modellers use.

I don't really like the black lines on white valks that I see arounds here. Maybe a really light great would look better.

Of course coated after wards is always best.

Hope that helps.

Posted (edited)

yeah, I used the gundam markers for my panel lines. I used a 0.05 or even a 0.04 tip. Those will get in really nice with the lines. I just use alcohol on tissue to wipe off the mess ups and if I used too much of the marker in one area. :p:D:lol:

Edited by BoBe-Patt
  • 3 years later...
Posted

What do you use to coat the valk with after panel lining with a pencil? Do you just spray it all over generally, or apply the coat by hand to the lined parts?

Isn't there a fear that the clear coat may "gum up the works"? I've just gotten a new VF-0A and want to line it, so any tips on this would be appreciated

Posted

Use Future acrylic liquid floor polish and an airbrush. Have also read that some people have brushed it on.

What do you use to coat the valk with after panel lining with a pencil? Do you just spray it all over generally, or apply the coat by hand to the lined parts?

Isn't there a fear that the clear coat may "gum up the works"? I've just gotten a new VF-0A and want to line it, so any tips on this would be appreciated

Posted (edited)

Use Future acrylic liquid floor polish and an airbrush. Have also read that some people have brushed it on.

Future can be brushed on, as it is self-correcting. It's pretty hard to screw up with Future; however, for those that don't know, sealing your panel lines with Future will give you project a glossy finish.

Edited by Wicked Ace
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Another option is the Crayola twistable colored pencils. Comes out chalky but subtle -- no drawn-in anime look. Once you get the consistency you desire, you can spray a top coat on, however my project in the picture is not top coated (still a work in progress).

post-1617-1168128787_thumb.jpg

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Posted

i use a lead pencil with a very thin tip. works fine. do a little rub over with soemthing (Hell i use an erasor) to get any smudges off and its fine. Ive played with all my valks since i panel lined em, and they are fine.

Posted

a little late to the party but i recently panel lined one of my valks using a mechanical pencil and did what could be considered "weathering".

first i filled in every panel line using my trusty pencil, then used a soft toothbrush and brushed over the entire valk. basically the toothbrush lightened all the panel lines and spread the excess graphite all over the valk creating a dirty weathered look using a minimal amount of effort. the great thing i like about it is the weathering is totally random, giving the valk a more used looked as opposed to the painted model look. i'll post a pic tomorrow.

Posted

pics!

[attachmentid=39476]

[attachmentid=39477]

comp pics

[attachmentid=39478]

[attachmentid=39479]

the weathering comes out dirty and random giving it a more used look.

post-206-1168364580_thumb.jpg

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Posted

pics!

[attachmentid=39476]

[attachmentid=39477]

comp pics

[attachmentid=39478]

[attachmentid=39479]

the weathering comes out dirty and random giving it a more used look.

How did you strip the original paint?

Posted

How did you strip the original paint?

originally i used brasso and steel wool to remove the paint, heres the link....

http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=17535

then brian(GutsandCasca) came across this other stuff and apparently its a lot easier than my method...

http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=19425

i bought the chameleon remover way back when but i still haven't tried it out. i'd already removed the paint from the stormshadow valk(the white one above) as well as my TV max and TV ben using the brasso steel wool method so there was no need for it.

as far as which works better, i'd probably say the chameleon stuff(even though i haven't used it yet) since it doesn't require much effort other than letting it soak. and whatever the chameleon stuff doesn't take off, you could always use the brasso steel wool method.

hope this helps, if you need any more info, shoot me a PM. :)

Posted

originally i used brasso and steel wool to remove the paint, heres the link....

http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=17535

then brian(GutsandCasca) came across this other stuff and apparently its a lot easier than my method...

http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=19425

i bought the chameleon remover way back when but i still haven't tried it out. i'd already removed the paint from the stormshadow valk(the white one above) as well as my TV max and TV ben using the brasso steel wool method so there was no need for it.

as far as which works better, i'd probably say the chameleon stuff(even though i haven't used it yet) since it doesn't require much effort other than letting it soak. and whatever the chameleon stuff doesn't take off, you could always use the brasso steel wool method.

hope this helps, if you need any more info, shoot me a PM. :)

Cool. Thanks dude.

Posted

How did you strip the original paint?

Another method that I've used that is also safe for heatshields, is soaking in ethanol for about 5-20 minutes, with periodic toothbrushing.

post-3171-1168468293_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

a little late to the party but i recently panel lined one of my valks using a mechanical pencil and did what could be considered "weathering".

first i filled in every panel line using my trusty pencil, then used a soft toothbrush and brushed over the entire valk. basically the toothbrush lightened all the panel lines and spread the excess graphite all over the valk creating a dirty weathered look using a minimal amount of effort. the great thing i like about it is the weathering is totally random, giving the valk a more used looked as opposed to the painted model look. i'll post a pic tomorrow.

Hey, Do Not Disturb: Doesn't the graphite leaves a metallized finish to it? I feel tempted to use that technique myself, but I'm not sure about the results. From the pictures it looks great.

Posted

Well, since weathering on real planes often is "paint peeling to reveal the metal beneath", a metallic effect is usually seen as good.

Also, most of the darker streaks you see on a plane? It's dark because of all the graphite used for lubricating the hinges. Nothing makes a plane look like it's got graphite streaks than real graphite. Hydraulic fluid is red, but the streaking is dark because of the graphite.

Posted (edited)

Well, since weathering on real planes often is "paint peeling to reveal the metal beneath", a metallic effect is usually seen as good.

Not always David. There are lots of surfaces and parts that are composites nowadays so there is no metal color beneath.

Just a note.

Also, most of the darker streaks you see on a plane? It's dark because of all the graphite used for lubricating the hinges. Nothing makes a plane look like it's got graphite streaks than real graphite. Hydraulic fluid is red, but the streaking is dark because of the graphite.

Gap filler is also a cause of obvious panel lines.

Most panel joints are sealed then painted making them nearly invisible from even a short distance.

Model panel lines are 99% overdone.

Edited by Skull-1
Posted

Hey, Do Not Disturb: Doesn't the graphite leaves a metallized finish to it? I feel tempted to use that technique myself, but I'm not sure about the results. From the pictures it looks great.

not really, it actually just make the valk look dirty/dusty as hell. i can't really describe it because it comes out so random and my pic taking skills suck to boot.

if anything, try it on the underside of the wing and see if you like the results. if you don't like it, just take the wing off and wash it with soap and water, the graphite comes right off.

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