Mommar Posted December 18, 2012 Posted December 18, 2012 Oh hell, I just realized I never posted those pics of the part that broke on me. I'd better do that when I get home from work. It's my fault I didn't properly drill out the holes well enough. Quote
CoreyD Posted December 18, 2012 Posted December 18, 2012 For those of you who bought the conversion parts in white strong flexible polished, what did do you do to get the "grainy" texture out of it? Sand, paint, sand, clearcoat (lacquer)? I've used some of Veef's parts before and I painted them with Tamiya acrylics, but I've never tried painting anything this big and obvious, so if I go for it, I'd like to make it look good. Thanks! Quote
robodragon Posted December 18, 2012 Posted December 18, 2012 For those of you who bought the conversion parts in white strong flexible polished, what did do you do to get the "grainy" texture out of it? Sand, paint, sand, clearcoat (lacquer)? I've used some of Veef's parts before and I painted them with Tamiya acrylics, but I've never tried painting anything this big and obvious, so if I go for it, I'd like to make it look good. Thanks! I did nothing, It only really bothers me on the canards. Quote
Kurisama Posted December 18, 2012 Author Posted December 18, 2012 (edited) I've primed with tamiya, sanded, sprayed again and sanded again - ready for a coat or two of the main color (then decals & panel lines) then a coat or two of clear. This time I'm going to experiment with a light coat of watered down wood glue, lite sand then 1 coat of primer. See how it goes... I read something on the Shapeways blog about mixing super glue and acetone or something and brushing it on, not sure I'm man enough to try that. Edited December 18, 2012 by Kurisama Quote
Chronocidal Posted December 18, 2012 Posted December 18, 2012 Oh, I did consider getting a new set of arms for my VF-0, but it was actually easier to make a replacement peg than replace the entire arm in that case. Didn't feel like waiting for it to ship either. I might order a set later on though, once I get a better handle on how the shapeways material works. As far as painting.. I almost think it'd be worth trying some of that thin sealing material people use to cover radio control aircraft, and lay that over the big surfaces. I think you just stretch it over, and heat it with a blowdryer to shrink it down. Quote
robodragon Posted December 19, 2012 Posted December 19, 2012 Yeah I got a full set of the arms coming now. But until then here are some more pics. Quote
caslon Posted December 19, 2012 Posted December 19, 2012 The most beautiful VF-0C that I'd ever seen..drooling! Quote
robodragon Posted December 19, 2012 Posted December 19, 2012 I would like to thank Kurisama for providing the parts through shapeways to make my VF-0C possible. Thanks man you rock. Quote
Mommar Posted December 20, 2012 Posted December 20, 2012 You should mount missiles on that third hard point too. Load that sucker down. Quote
robodragon Posted December 20, 2012 Posted December 20, 2012 Yeah I'm thinking the ones from the SV-51 would look good on her. Quote
Kurisama Posted January 4, 2013 Author Posted January 4, 2013 Got my shipment from Shapeways yesterday - things turned out pretty well, I think. Keep in mind that these pieces are fresh out of the box, no surface cleaning or cutting. Parts are very loosely plugged in to the hinges too; Quote
gwfalcon Posted January 4, 2013 Posted January 4, 2013 Very nice design!!! May I know what material is used for this printing? polished one or not I mean. I may buy one but am not sure how to sand the surface properly. Quote
Mommar Posted January 4, 2013 Posted January 4, 2013 Those parts look waaaaay different from mine. I've got stepping all over the place. Quote
CoreyD Posted January 4, 2013 Posted January 4, 2013 I was thinking of maybe doing a paint job like one of those old Brit Avro Vulcan bombers. Could look cool. Could look awful. Only one way to find out... Quote
Loop Posted January 5, 2013 Posted January 5, 2013 Those parts look waaaaay different from mine. I've got stepping all over the place. Do you mean like when you see 3d prints from the home made machines? Kinda like a plateau with layers that are building up upon each other? Quote
mechaninac Posted January 5, 2013 Posted January 5, 2013 The severity of the stair-stepping is wholy dependent on the part's geometry and the orientation in which it's built; there is nothing that can be done about the geometry, but the person setting up the build platform determines how it's oriented. If a wing is built flat (parallel to the platform) you end up with a lot of obvious steps, that require a lot of sanding, from the way the layers are stacked; if the same wing is oriented vertically (perpendicular to the platform) the result is far superior, with no stair-stepping on the curved surfaces even if they taper. Quote
CoreyD Posted January 5, 2013 Posted January 5, 2013 Is there a way for the designer to provide printing instructions to shapeways, so it gets printed without stepping? Quote
Valkyrie Magnus Posted January 5, 2013 Posted January 5, 2013 Those are awesome pics! I hope yamato reissues Macross Zero stuff! Quote
Mommar Posted January 5, 2013 Posted January 5, 2013 The severity of the stair-stepping is wholy dependent on the part's geometry and the orientation in which it's built; there is nothing that can be done about the geometry, but the person setting up the build platform determines how it's oriented. If a wing is built flat (parallel to the platform) you end up with a lot of obvious steps, that require a lot of sanding, from the way the layers are stacked; if the same wing is oriented vertically (perpendicular to the platform) the result is far superior, with no stair-stepping on the curved surfaces even if they taper. Whoever printed mine did the exact opposite of what you should. I have SEVERE stepping going on. Quote
Chronocidal Posted January 6, 2013 Posted January 6, 2013 Yeah, I noticed that on the first set that got displayed here, someone had some ridiculously rough parts printed. I had thought someone mentioned that was the difference between ordering the polished and rough materials, but I wonder now if that's really the case. Quote
mechaninac Posted January 6, 2013 Posted January 6, 2013 RP process, material, and layer resolution all affect part finish; but since they're all additive technologies, nothing has as much impact as build orientation. Most service bureaus will set up their builds to maximize efficiency (a wing take quite a bit longer to build vertically than horizontally, thereby monopolizing more machine time), but they're also willing to comply with customers' requests. It wouldn't hurt to instruct Shapeways on how you'd like your part built. Quote
Kurisama Posted January 6, 2013 Author Posted January 6, 2013 Sorry for the late reply, just got back from interstate. Unfortunately orientation is decided by the technician - I have no control over it, sorry. I did read a while ago that they're thinking of making it a possibility, at a fee. I'm sorry some of you have received sub par parts. I do find, however - that with every delivery I get, the quality, build and tolerances get better. Quote
Kurisama Posted January 6, 2013 Author Posted January 6, 2013 Very nice design!!! May I know what material is used for this printing? polished one or not I mean. I may buy one but am not sure how to sand the surface properly. Cheers! WSF polished or polished alumide are your best bet. You'll need to get some fine grit modeling sand paper. I'm going to try a new technique soon, so I'll keep you all posted. I would like to thank Kurisama for providing the parts through shapeways to make my VF-0C possible. Thanks man you rock. Hey thank you man! I really appreciate it, it takes a lot of time and effort - glad you are able to join me in the delight that is this new era of custom, after-market parts making! Your bird is super sweet! Awesome custom :-D Quote
robodragon Posted January 6, 2013 Posted January 6, 2013 Kurisama I would love to join you in the delightthat isthis new era of custom after market VF-0 reactive armor parts. Quote
Kurisama Posted January 7, 2013 Author Posted January 7, 2013 Took some photos after cleaning up the plugs/joints - fits all well now except the intakes; they'll need to be tweaked some more and probably glued at the back :S All the articulation is working after some clean-up and shaving some plastic off the pegs - nothing too extreme - less is more Please note I still have not sanded the surface or re-scribeded the panel lines yet. Robodragon - I'm still tossing up between the VF-11/VF-0 armours.... and now I have delusions of an Elintseeker-type add-on for a VF-11 D: Also still umming and aarring about the new head unit for the D I've 3/4 built... Quote
Chronocidal Posted January 7, 2013 Posted January 7, 2013 You know, as long as you're making delta wing conversions... How about a standard (non robo-boobie) VF-11MAXL conversion? All you'd really need I think is to remove the standard wings, and keep the tails tucked in. Or heck, just keep both sets of tails. It'd be nothing like Mylene's, but I don't know if I've ever seen any official art of what a normal MAXL would look like. Quote
Kurisama Posted January 7, 2013 Author Posted January 7, 2013 There is also the VF-11 that was the test frame for the YF-19 wings AND also the '11 drone... :-D Quote
anime52k8 Posted January 7, 2013 Posted January 7, 2013 You know, as long as you're making delta wing conversions... How about a standard (non robo-boobie) VF-11MAXL conversion? All you'd really need I think is to remove the standard wings, and keep the tails tucked in. Or heck, just keep both sets of tails. It'd be nothing like Mylene's, but I don't know if I've ever seen any official art of what a normal MAXL would look like. the VF-11MAXL is pointless without the robo-boobies. Quote
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