Yamato 1/60 VF-17 Nightmare Diamond Force (Thread no.2)

[Bishop]

It's to distract the enemy mech...

I just don't get the 'cherry on top' look on this one.

[Boobytrap]

Congrats!

I just don't get the 'cherry on top' look on this one.

OK, now I can't un-see that. I still think I like it better than the 17S which always reminded me of a cylon with a hat.

[derex3592]

17D was the best IMHO. That's the one I went for. I still fear transforming it....it usually draws first blood...LOL.

[MAC-X]

_DSC6678.jpg

_DSC6683.jpg

The 17 looks badass! I always thought the 17 is about the same size as the 171, or is this because of the angle of the shot?

Edited October 8, 2016 by MAC-X

[jenius]

http://anymoon.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/Bandai-DX-171-8.jpg

[Mommar]

OK, now I can't un-see that. I still think I like it better than the 17S which always reminded me of a cylon with a hat.

In animation the D looks better thsn the S. In toy form the S looks like a fricking brute and the is okay but with better colors.

[aaajin]

On 1/27/2013 at 1:38 AM, Graham said:

Here's my video for unlocking the canopy on a VF-17 if you have one with a really stuck canopy.

 

Graham

A bit of a necro thread, but here goes.

OK today I decided to take out my 17S & display it in fighter mode, within the 10 minutes of time window while waiting for my wife to get ready before we go out. Then I realized that 10 minutes was a naive estimate to put the effin pilot in the effin cockpit *clench fists*

The cockpit & front landing gear forward panel were extremely tight. I managed to carefully pry down the front landing gear forward panel using a tweezer without any damage, but the cockpit wouldnt budge & I dont want to force the canopy up and damage the edges or worse the hinge.

Luckily found Graham's useful post. Will try this tonite!

Also saw some posts about the front landing gear panel, neck cover alignment and finger joints cracking out of the box (touch wood). Any advise on other potential issue that I need to worry about? Appreciate member's response & thanks in advance!

 

Edited January 30, 2017 by aaajin

[aaajin]

 Saw Graham's video on how to :

(1) slide the canopy cover up if its too tight.

(2) slide the neck cover to its flush position in fighter mode. 

The video resolution was a bit low, so it was hard for me to see the areas Graham talked about in the video.

As I was figuring out how to put Gamlin in his 17S, I thought I might as well make a guide for members who's having the same issues with their VF-17.

I'll cover just point (1), because by the time (1) is done, Im pretty sure (2) is relatively easy (OK, I'm just lazy :P)

Anyways, onto the steps :

 

1) Partially transform the 17 as shown below. Transformation videos are available by Jenius aka Anymoon or ColletionDX (forgot the member's alias here on MW)

 

2) Once its in the above position, locate the slot below the slider hinge (see green arrow) behind the cockpit area.
Use a hobby flat screw driver (or anything that is slender with a flat end) and insert the flat end into the slot. 
Rotate the screwdriver slowly so that the slider is pushed up. Once there is clearance, push the slider all the way up.

 

3) Walla. Done. Put everything back together in fighter mode and set Gamlin in his rightful place : inside a 17S cockpit. Good Luck!

[valhary]

I just try with Fantasy jewelry sticker for cover the infamous clown nose and I have to say Even though not is a final solution really improves the look

make me want an upgrade kit (also includes side covers)

[Loop]

On 10/7/2016 at 4:47 PM, derex3592 said:

17D was the best IMHO. That's the one I went for. I still fear transforming it....it usually draws first blood...LOL.

 that is so true about the blood. Something on this toy got me, but I can't remember what it was. I haven't touched one of mine since these were released. I bought Diamond force and put them all in Battroid mode and left them there.

[sh9000]

Release the VF-17S Milia.

[Mommar]

9 hours ago, sh9000 said:

Release the VF-17S Milia.

This and a Teal one too.

[Ignacio Ocamica]

22 minutes ago, Mommar said:

This and a Teal one too.

Yes to both!!!

[Sandman]

Teal one? Remind me where we saw this version. Somewhere in m7 I suppose?

[IXTL]

7 minutes ago, Sandman said:

Teal one? Remind me where we saw this version. Somewhere in m7 I suppose?

M7 Dynamite OVA.

[Mommar]

Yup, I'd love a teal one but I feel like unless the color was done just right the teal plastic could turn out really bad looking.

[technoblue]

Silver lining is, if it ended up being too green, it would be a good stepping stone to a proper VF-17T.

All we would need after that is a proper head sculpt, Ray, Veffidas, and the optional Super Speaker Pod thingy.

[easnoddy]

For some reason I always have a tough time getting the chest back down when going from battroid back to fighter...

Other than that and floppy shoulders, I love this toy.

[Duymon]

Man... seeing this thread pop up again makes me miss the Fat Valks of the 90's. Now they're all thin and lanky and have ginormous wings sticking out back

[jenius]

Agreed... but I wish the toy version of this Valk focused more on battroid mode. 

[Sandman]

On 4/13/2017 at 11:28 PM, IXTL said:

M7 Dynamite OVA.

Oh right forgot about this one. Thanks for the pic.

[valhary]

check your nightmares

[Ignacio Ocamica]

Will do when I get home. Hope your 17 stays together.You can use superglue for that crack.

[Shizuka the Cat]

1 hour ago, valhary said:

check your nightmares

Wait, can you elaborate on what the problem is?

[spacemanoeuvres]

25 minutes ago, Shizuka the Cat said:

Wait, can you elaborate on what the problem is?

I believe there’s a crack below the middle screw. 

[Mommar]

Thanks for the heads up.

[Loop]

@valhary was it just in a stationary pose the whole time or well played with?

[Mommar]

I have a crack on the right elbow of my 17S, same place as in that pic, and it's been sitting posed like that for years.  Not played with.

However, no cracks on the elbows of my 17D's.

[Ignacio Ocamica]

Checked my only 17S and no cracks.

[mechaninac]

On 6/6/2018 at 12:25 PM, Ignacio Ocamica said:

...You can use superglue for that crack.

I'd steer clear from super glue.  Since that piece is ABS, the best solution would be to use a small drop of model cement (Testor's will work).  (1) Unscrew, (2) add a small drop to the crack, (3) clamp to close until it oozes some dissolved plastic, (4) let it cure for at least 24 hours, (5) clean the scar that formed with a hobby knife and a flat jeweler's file, (6) sand smooth with a sanding stick, (7) buff with a buffing stick until all the scratches disappear and the sheen matches the rest or the part, done and good as new; lastly, (8) reassemble the elbow but don't over-tighten the screws.

[Xigfrid]

@Mechamaniac would you recommend the Testor cement 3507AT? I am also looking for a good one and this one is available locally. 

 

[mechaninac]

^That will do (just make sure it's the version with the metal tube precision applicator tip... which it looks is the case), but because it's more viscous than the liquid type you'd apply with a brush it won't penetrate all the way in the crack because it can't take advantage of capillary action; it requires that the crack be spread apart enough for the tip of the applicator tube to reach in at least part way... and that would put extra stress on the opposite side of the screw hole.

If this is available, go for it instead:

[Xigfrid]

Thanks for the info, unfortunately this 3502XT bottle was more than 30 EUR, so I went with the 3507 to test

[mechaninac]

 More than 30 EUR?...   What a massive, expletive laced, ripoff!!!   Those two versions of Testor's liquid cement are just a bit over 3 USD on Amazon, and around 6-8 at B&M retailers... sheesh!

 

Edit:  Just make sure that when you use it to not slather the part with the liquid.  Don't overload the brush applicator, just a little drop will do.  Dip the brush and get rid of the excess on the lip of the bottle, then lightly touch the crack with the tip of the brush and let capillary action carry the cement into the fissure.  Clamp down with a wood clothes pin or vice until molten plastic oozes out (if nothing does, apply a little more cement). Let cure thoroughly.

Good luck. 

Edited June 8, 2018 by mechaninac