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Posted

Is it just me, or does the trend for mecha design in general these days seem to lean heavily towards the skinny-with-lots-of-little-bits-sticking-out aesthetic? I'm not really a Gundam fan (only seen the first series), but most of the current designs I see seem to have lots of antennae, wings, kibble, etc. all over the place. Michael Bay Transformers is that look taken to its furthest extreme. Is the more blocky, "muscular" look considered too 80s?

I like both. The 17 and 19 series of valks (for example) are both big and bulky and look great to me. On the other hand, the VF-25 also looks awesome in its own right. Not to mention its thinner design makes things like the full armor pack that stays on in all modes possible. If it was already bulky before the armor was added, the armor would make it too cumbersome.

I actually feel like the 30 is partially a throwback to the older styles and more in line with the 11, at least as far as the legs are concerned. The leg design on it harkens back to the vf-1 or 11 with its simple, clean lines and shape. The upper body and back kibble are a different story though.

I think the sleekness of the recent battroid designs is just a natural progression though. Valkyrie combat is all about speed and agility, so making it thinner and harder to hit while at the same time potentially reducing the mass of the base unit makes sense to me. Well, that's my take as far as Macross goes. I really couldn't say for other franchises.

Posted (edited)

I took that photo before Luca parts came out.

This is the last photo before they gone into hibernation while I study abroad.

1491455_10151847738462861_1664653868_o.j

Same situation as you and it hurts to not see them pretty birds. I have Valks beings shipped abroad and I dread the idea of hauling things back home... half way across the globe...

Edited by ULessa
Posted

I like the classic Optimus Prime because the transformation is straight forward but could be more skeletal with the vehicle outer parts as disguise. Same as Gundam (tho I don't watch one). RX-78 is my favourite. The recent Gundam designs seem a little too busy with generic head design and wings every where.

This is why I like Macross concept which Fighter (fast pursuit mode), GERWALK (hover and better aerial acrobatic mode) and Battroid which I believed built for melee combat with giant alien.

Michael Bay's Transformers would probably cause headache for toymakers. The recent ones even smoke, japanese and dinosaurs. How does that happen in Cybertron? They have female robot but yet does not serve purpose in reproduction. Too much strayed away from the original concept I think.

Posted

Sorry late the game here...I have to say that overall this last run at the 25S renewal was joke. Sites were not kind. I have two of these and one armor, but I have them all in a box. I think I'm going to face the reality and just have to open one and get it over with now, as adding a third for retail, heck less than $250-$500 (why???? God?!??!) is going to be tough.


Oh and sorry about your wing there Scream that completely sucks.

Posted

....And my 25F just broke :( The peg for the left wing just snapped off in the hole of the Tornado pack leg armor :( I'm so pissed off right now.

I think the same thing happened to Kanedas bike's

Posted

....And my 25F just broke :( The peg for the left wing just snapped off in the hole of the Tornado pack leg armor :( I'm so pissed off right now.

I think the same thing happened to Kanedas bike's

Yep, exactly the same.

-b.

Posted

Did you guys pull the wings up first or move the legs down first? Also sorry to hear the bad news

It was a couple of weeks ago but IIRC I pulled the wing up from the leg armor attachment with too much force. I was unaware of just how deep the peg seats inside the attachment and that little peg snapped clean off.

After I heard about it from him, i am always careful when I unslot that peg. I usually press down the leg armor onto the leg and slowly wiggle the peg out.

^This. Slow and steady is the best approach when removing. I haven't had any issues with the 25F I'm using now for the Tornado Parts.

-b.

Posted

It was a couple of weeks ago but IIRC I pulled the wing up from the leg armor attachment with too much force. I was unaware of just how deep the peg seats inside the attachment and that little peg snapped clean off.

^This. Slow and steady is the best approach when removing. I haven't had any issues with the 25F I'm using now for the Tornado Parts.

-b.

Basically the same for me. I thought it was like the super armor, where lifting the wing is easy so its no big deal. I didnt realise how deeply seated the peg was in the hole on the leg pack on the Tornado.

I mean I guess it isnt the hugest problem in the world. The wing hinges are tight enough that it will still hold its modes fine. Its more the principle of the thing. And money is so tight right now i cant afford another one, even though they're one of the cheaper Valks to get..

Posted

the whole front fuselage can be easily disassembled after removing the pins (this is the hardest part, and so far I am not successful) then everything are just screws, there are no glues.

seeing that broken plastic has a big area, Plastic weld will easily solve this once fully dis-assembled.

Hey guys, thanks for the suggestions on how to fix it. I dont have a lot experience with models, what is plastic weld? I'm alittle nervous about opening up the valk. How do i remove the bar some one mentioned? I have some gundam cement but i'm not sure if it'll be strong enough. I've seen styrene sheets at the shop but have no idea how to use them. I haven't used shapeways, so i'm not familiar with them. Has anyone else tried this?

Thanks

Posted (edited)

Hey guys, thanks for the suggestions on how to fix it. I dont have a lot experience with models, what is plastic weld? I'm alittle nervous about opening up the valk. How do i remove the bar some one mentioned? I have some gundam cement but i'm not sure if it'll be strong enough. I've seen styrene sheets at the shop but have no idea how to use them. I haven't used shapeways, so i'm not familiar with them. Has anyone else tried this?

Thanks

Plastic Weld is a plastic solvent that chemically melts plastic in order to fuse pieces that are to be bonded together; it basically makes two parts become one, with the join being just about as strong as the rest of the part. What is usually referred to model glue/cement is plastic weld for Styrene (Testor's tube and liquid cement, for example); for the type of plastics used in the average toy (ABS, Acrylic, etc.), a professional grade welder such as Ambroid Pro Weld, Tenax 7R, and others is preferred as the hobby variety isn't strong enough to bond anything other than styrene and soft ABS. One thing that can't be stressed enough is to NEVER use Super Glue (cyanoacrylate), hot glue, or two part epoxy on your toys unless it's meant as filler/strengthener to bolster ribs and screw bosses inside parts where the sloppy results won't be visible; otherwise, you're asking for failure

The Styrene rout would require shaping a replacement part by machining or by hand. You'll need to bond a stack of styrene sheets together to achieve the correct thickness or start with a extruded square section solid rod to carve down to the correct shape, and you will also need to drill holes for the hinge pins. Since styrene sheet or stock are available in white you won't need to paint, but the white won't exactly match.

Shapeways is a 3D printing service where you can upload a 3D mesh model (usually in STL format) to have it grown for you in a range of materials -- including a white strong type would be ideal for toy part replacement. Many members here have used shapeways to offer replacement and accessory parts for the community. Of course, in order to take advantage of this possibility, you need to model a part in a 3D modeling program (or have someone do it for you), upload it to have it vetted by Shapeways, wait for the part to be made and shipped to you... none of this comes cheap.

Edited by mechaninac
Posted

I think people are kinda 25f'd out. They saturated the market. I don't think it will stay up forever, but yeah.

Guest davidwhangchoi
Posted

Surprised that no one has mentioned the VF-25F is back up on AmiAmi. It's been up all night, thanks I'm sure to their (1) order per customer forever rule;

http://www.amiami.com/top/detail/detail?gcode=TOY-RBT-1598&page=top%2Fsearch%2Flist%3Fs_seriestitle%3DDX+Chogokin%24pagemax%3D100%24getcnt%3D0%24pagecnt%3D1

-b.

thanks b, we can only hope the 25s will be like this upon release. (we know it's possible, bandai)

Posted

I think people are kinda 25f'd out. They saturated the market. I don't think it will stay up forever, but yeah.

You're probably right.

That didn't stop me from trying to order another one though. :lol:

thanks b, we can only hope the 25s will be like this upon release. (we know it's possible, bandai)

Fingers crossed. Fingers crossed. Fingers crossed. Fingers crossed. Fingers crossed.

-b.

Posted (edited)

For the Tornado wing-to-leg plug, I just put a flathead screw driver into the gap and slowly rotate it to loosen it up. There is a little risk of scratching but no risk of breaking.

Plastic Weld is a plastic solvent that chemically melts plastic in order to fuse pieces that are to be bonded together; it basically makes two parts become one, with the join being just about as strong as the rest of the part. What is usually referred to model glue/cement is plastic weld for Styrene (Testor's tube and liquid cement, for example); for the type of plastics used in the average toy (ABS, Acrylic, etc.), a professional grade welder such as Ambroid Pro Weld, Tenax 7R, and others is preferred as the hobby variety isn't strong enough to bond anything other than styrene and soft ABS. One thing that can't be stressed enough is to NEVER use Super Glue (cyanoacrylate), hot glue, or two part epoxy on your toys unless it's meant as filler/strengthener to bolster ribs and screw bosses inside parts where the sloppy results won't be visible; otherwise, you're asking for failure

Thanks, I can use that to fix my V.1 VF-25S (and some Lego pieces). Which type of welder do you recommend for Bandai valks?

Edited by CF18
Posted

Surprised that no one has mentioned the VF-25F is back up on AmiAmi. It's been up all night, thanks I'm sure to their (1) order per customer forever rule;

http://www.amiami.com/top/detail/detail?gcode=TOY-RBT-1598&page=top%2Fsearch%2Flist%3Fs_seriestitle%3DDX+Chogokin%24pagemax%3D100%24getcnt%3D0%24pagecnt%3D1

-b.

So if i ordered one from Amiami a year ago i still couldn't order one from them again? Not that i would want one. I have three.

Posted

So if i ordered one from Amiami a year ago i still couldn't order one from them again? Not that i would want one. I have three.

The first rule of the forever club is that nobody talks about the forever club.

Posted

For the Tornado wing-to-leg plug, I just put a flathead screw driver into the gap and slowly rotate it to loosen it up. There is a little risk of scratching but no risk of breaking.

Thanks, I can use that to fix my V.1 VF-25S (and some Lego pieces). Which type of welder do you recommend for Bandai valks?

Bandai, Yamato/Arcadia, Toynami, Takara, etc... pretty much all the same standard toy industry plastics used (there is some variability between grades used by each company and on each production run, even for the same company, the triangle NUNS pieces on the VF-171EX Alto vs. VF-171 CF, for example) -- predominantly, ABS. Any plastic welder that specifically states that it works on ABS will work of any toy, from any manufacturer. But if you want a brand, I've had good results with Ambroid Pro-Weld; it's readily available at most well-stocked hobby shops.

Posted

So if i ordered one from Amiami a year ago i still couldn't order one from them again? Not that i would want one. I have three.

If you ordered and received one from the restock earlier this summer you wouldn't be able to. No worries now since it's sold out again.

???

:lol:

The first rule of the forever club is that nobody talks about the forever club.

Exactly.

Bandai, Yamato/Arcadia, Toynami, Takara, etc... pretty much all the same standard toy industry plastics used (there is some variability between grades used by each company and on each production run, even for the same company, the triangle NUNS pieces on the VF-171EX Alto vs. VF-171 CF, for example) -- predominantly, ABS. Any plastic welder that specifically states that it works on ABS will work of any toy, from any manufacturer. But if you want a brand, I've had good results with Ambroid Pro-Weld; it's readily available at most well-stocked hobby shops.

Good info.

Unfortunately for me the tab that broke off is lost forever, when I tried to get it out of the leg armor attachment it flew across the room, I've been looking for a week or so and cannot find it. :(

-b.

Posted

Surprised that no one has mentioned the VF-25F is back up on AmiAmi. It's been up all night, thanks I'm sure to their (1) order per customer forever rule;

http://www.amiami.com/top/detail/detail?gcode=TOY-RBT-1598&page=top%2Fsearch%2Flist%3Fs_seriestitle%3DDX+Chogokin%24pagemax%3D100%24getcnt%3D0%24pagecnt%3D1

-b.

Aww man, I have been checking the VF-25F page almost every night on AmiAmi hoping to snag a restock, and the one night I don't check they are up all night. Dang ol' Murphy's Law of collecting. :p

Posted

Aww man, I have been checking the VF-25F page almost every night on AmiAmi hoping to snag a restock, and the one night I don't check they are up all night. Dang ol' Murphy's Law of collecting. :p

Yeah buddy, luck, good or bad, very much plays a role in collecting these things. I wouldn't be too surprised if HLJ, Hobby Search and maybe even AmiAmi re-open orders for the F.

-b.

Posted

Aww man, I have been checking the VF-25F page almost every night on AmiAmi hoping to snag a restock, and the one night I don't check they are up all night. Dang ol' Murphy's Law of collecting. :p

Same thing happened to me when I didn't check Mandarake for a day for that last VF-4G that went on sale. :wacko:

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Did anyone order an F (Alto) back in July or August, from HLJ (or anywhere else, for that matter)? Stock was meant to be available in August but my order is still waiting.

Email to HLJ got a response that they don't have stock yet but aren't sure why. Seems a bit strange to me.

Posted

My 4th 25 F is inbound. I will have a solid Alto at every point in my life now. When I am 80 I will have a tight perfect F.

80..., I wonder what my vf toys would be like when I am 80, maybe they are all broken but diecast parts? Lol

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