DX VF-25 Renewal Series (Part III)

[Loop]

Go for the 25A, sure the 25F is more iconic for being piloted by Alto but from a dollar value perspective you can't beat the much improved quality of the 25A release. And it's still fairly available at decent prices (from $ 130 to $ 160 + shipping).

-b.

QFT, I bought 3x CF 25A's and only opened up one. I know it's only 1 of three, but it was the tightest best feeling 25 that I own and I have multiples and all of the versions they released in the renewal line.

Hands down the 25A wins for fit and finish.

[danth]

Noob question time.

I have the Luca green VF-25. Is there a way to detach the big antenna thing that sticks down in fighter mode? It appears to be fixed to the arm but I can't tell for sure if it will detach or not.

[Chronocidal]

I think you can remove it by unscrewing the small piece holding it on, but I'm not sure if you'll permanently damage it to do that.

Personally, I'd love to be able to remove the dish support from the plane too, but it's stuck down just a bit too well with glue.

[sreichma]

It would be interesting if someone opened up the hips and shoulders of the 25A to determine if Bandai used a different friction piece or new design on the ball and socket that has resulted in the tightness everyone is reporting. I believe that it is much tighter, I'd just like to know what part of the design was changed that caused it. I'm sure it's there and would be apparent if someone opens one up.

[Kyp Durron]

QFT, I bought 3x CF 25A's and only opened up one. I know it's only 1 of three, but it was the tightest best feeling 25 that I own and I have multiples and all of the versions they released in the renewal line.

Hands down the 25A wins for fit and finish.

I love my VF-25A, looking at it on it's flight pose stand NEVER gets old. Landing gear comes out and goes back in easily for those times I want to display it sitting on it's landing gear. Also, LOVE the purple tint they went with for this release.

Edited February 16, 2014 by Kyp Durron

[Tking22]

Okay I didn't want to start a thread but I am f%#*%!@ panicking right now. I just got a 25A and I'm trying to get it to battroid, but I have no clue how to finish the head/neck transformation, the instructions are crap, and not a single video online helps because everyone breezes through this step in one second flat. To make matter worse, I believe the head was mis-transformed in fighter mode, it seems like it is facing the wrong way, or I believe it is. I don't know anything about this transformation since this is my first 25, and I can't get a decent look anywhere else, nothing is helping. I tried maneuvering the head out myself but there is just no clearance, one of the "horns" on the head broke off and is bouncing around somewhere inside the chest, the little heat shield thing popped off too but it appears I can just put it back on. I've attached pics, if anyone can help, please post some pics or at least a more clear step-by-step, I just got this thing and it's already got a minor break, this transformation has been a nightmare, this is officially a fighter-only figure after this.

[VF-Zer0S]

There is a double sided hinge under the chest plate. Argh I wish I had a decey camera to explain. Anyways it needs to be pushed up. I used tweezers to push it into place. The directions arnt very clear I know but look at that step again an it will make all the sence

[Kanedas Bike]

Sorry to hear about your issues - will try to help with a couple of items;

1) In Fighter Mode the head should be facing backwards, that is the face pointing towards the feet/rear of the plane.

2) You're correct that the piece that popped off (shown in your pictures where there is a circle like indentation) can be placed right back on.

I'm sure someone can point you to a YouTube video or two to help with the transformation. From my experience with the 25A the joints are a lot tighter than other renewal 25's so it may take a little force to get things to move into place - just be careful not to exert too much force.

-b.

[Tking22]

There is a double sided hinge under the chest plate. Argh I wish I had a decey camera to explain. Anyways it needs to be pushed up. I used tweezers to push it into place. The directions arnt very clear I know but look at that step again an it will make all the sence

I'm trying with the instructions, they still aren't doing it for me, plus the head isn't facing the right way and there's two different spots rubbing hard on each other, there's a fine mark around the head now from the stress. I still don't have a clue, I'm fiddling with the bottom and inside the chest, and I just don't f&*@#!% know., I can get one horn to clear and that's it the other side just can't get the clearance, I can't get the head and neck area to clear from the chest and pop up.

[SilentCrossHairs]

Okay I didn't want to start a thread but I am f%#*%!@ panicking right now. I just got a 25A and I'm trying to get it to battroid, but I have no clue how to finish the head/neck transformation, the instructions are crap, and not a single video online helps because everyone breezes through this step in one second flat. To make matter worse, I believe the head was mis-transformed in fighter mode, it seems like it is facing the wrong way, or I believe it is. I don't know anything about this transformation since this is my first 25, and I can't get a decent look anywhere else, nothing is helping. I tried maneuvering the head out myself but there is just no clearance, one of the "horns" on the head broke off and is bouncing around somewhere inside the chest, the little heat shield thing popped off too but it appears I can just put it back on. I've attached pics, if anyone can help, please post some pics or at least a more clear step-by-step, I just got this thing and it's already got a minor break, this transformation has been a nightmare, this is officially a fighter-only figure after this.

This should help (correction) This VF-25s has the same transformation.

Edited February 22, 2014 by SilentCrossHairs

[Tking22]

Lol that was the first video I looked up, I always go to Anymoon for my Macross videos, unfortunately it doesn't go into transformation whatsoever, he only has one renewal transformation video and it is with super parts attached, on a 25S. Thanks though.

[close313]

The chest shouldnt be folded down. The plate should slide back first to give clearance for the head to pop up. If u want, pull those shoulder plates off beside the head first. Its kimd of hard to take a video of it because the mechanism is inside

[Tking22]

It's blowing my mind how absolutely futile everything I'm trying is, I'm looking at all the hinges, trying to figure out what goes where, what bends and how, and I just can't do it, this head will not f&*!@%$ clear. Every video I see of a renewal transformation the guy just says "pull the head out", unfortunately I can't, it's just not that easy, it's killing me. This head facing the wrong way is f&*#^@! up every tutorial or explanation I can find, the design of the head and the position it was shoved into is a dead-end for me. Like I said if I knew more or if I could have at least completed this transformation before on another figure I'd have a better shot, but without someone capable that I can just hand this off to I'm thinking this thing is just never going to see battroid, which f$!#&@% sucks.

[CrazyDude]

I would try to get it back into fighter or gerwalk mode(making sure all parts are correctly placed and aligned) than start again.

Sounded like last one step the head got rotated.

[Tking22]

This should help (correction) This VF-25s has the same transformation.

I already watched the updated video you posted too, unfortunately it still doesn't help. The position the head is in, the way it's facing, and the design of those stupid lower horns are making it impossible. I listened to, watched, and read everything I could find for the past 2 hours now and nothing. I tried what he said in the video, pushing what I thought was the chest plate up and nothing, I heard some cracking while trying to move something else up and back so I stopped. I sort of noticed the issue too, as soon as I took the figure out of the box in fighter I studied it then the box art and I noticed the head was clearly facing the wrong way, the visor/camera was visible flush on top of the fighter and everything. Thanks again for trying to help, I'm probably just going to box this guy then sell him, this experience left a horrible taste in my mouth.

[MacrossJunkie]

It definitely looks like you don't have the base for the head and neck pulled back all the way. If you're struggling to pull it back further, it means that it's jammed on something and is likely the source of your frustration. I had that problem with a couple of my older 25s. I had to take out the two screws on the underside of the chest and take the chest apart to get at the base piece. I then sanded down the round nubs on the side of the part that slides along the track to create more clearance. If the walls of the track look kind of rough or have some plastic sticking out along the way, grab an emery board and sand it down smoother. If you try it, you'll know what I'm talking about when you look at it. After I put it all back, it slid back and forth much easier afterwards. Otherwise, this all should be a cakewalk to transform.

Edited February 22, 2014 by MacrossJunkie

[Tking22]

Damn, just damn, I mean, I'm almost speechless. After several breaks, as in stuff that won't pop back on, I am now just attempting to put it back to fighter to be done with it, and of course, I can't get the hip mechanism to close flush below the head, so now, no fighter mode either. Several people have tried explaining this mechanism, I've watched 4 different renewal transformation videos, and I still don't get it, and now, I'm f%@$!@, I don't even know how to put this POS back into fighter. I really don't know what to do, I'm now playing with this thing almost in fighter mode, fiddling with the head yet again, and I can't for the life of me figure out how to get it to just f#@!$%& go back in, I'm starting to rage, this is driving me crazy, I just want to box it but I can't even do that.

[xrentonx]

If you are getting frustrated, don't make it worse by fighting with the toy. You're just gonna end up snapping something else. Just put it down in whatever state it is in and come back to it after you take a good long breather. Take a walk and take some deep breaths and slowly come back to the toy in the morning when you got a clear head. Hundreds of us have transformed this bird so it isn't as insurmountable as you think it is right now. Just take a little break

Edited February 22, 2014 by xrentonx

[MacrossJunkie]

My advice is just calm down and put it down for the night. Getting frustrated with it is just making handling it worse. Have another look at it tomorrow after you've got your head clear.

I'll see about taking some pictures tomorrow. I still think the sliding neck base is jammed on yours which might also make sliding it back for fighter mode difficult and prevent the hip and crotch piece from fitting back in.

You might want to try my suggestion above tomorrow.

[Tking22]

I managed to coerce the head back into position for fighter, the main frustration I'm having is the lack of direction, for such a complex neck and chest transformation I found myself miles from having any of that sitting properly. Thanks again for anyone that tried to help but I think this is a lost cause for me, I have an old roommate in town for the next two weeks who may want to go home with this. Can't say I didn't try, but this 25 business is not for me. I managed to get it back into fighter and geez, the fit is all over the place, it's way more gappy then before I touched it lol, and it appears one of my arms screwed up, they both extend to the same length but one collapses in more than the other so it's uneven, I had a tough time popping the shield back onto fighter, looks like I'm cancelling those super parts!

[xrentonx]

I guess let us know if you change your mind and we'll post more detailed tips but it is Friday night after all

[joppewo]

Just curious, has anyone's VF-25F renewal suffered from signs of yellowing and is the white painted on or just raw plastic?

Kinda tempted to get one but I'm always hesitant to buy white coloured valks (or toys for that matter) since the weather is pretty hot and humid over here.

[BlueSkull]

@Tking22

I understand your frustrations completely. The 25A was my first VF25 and I did NOT enjoy transforming it the first time at all. Same problem area for me. The neck plate is supposed to slide up and out, and the entire assembly needs to go up-ish like in the manual, but the damn thing's joints were so damn tight on mine, that I had to apply a very scary level force to get it to move.

Thankfully, it worked and nothing broke.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/a5p472adar6jvmj/VF25A-head.png

Here's a pic of how far the neck plate needs to be pushed up and through. You can pop off the head to make it simpler

[aaajin]

Lol. Kinda reminds me of my frustrations transforming my vf-22s back to fighter mode. Never attempt transforming a new valk in the middle of the night, unless if you are a super cool dude who never frustrates over anything. Treat the valk gently and never force any mechanism unless if you are very very veeeryy sure it will not break anything.

If it wouldnt budge, lay the valk to rest, drink plenty of water, watch a movie, play a sport, take breather, eat out, enjoy life, then re-attempt transforming it again. Repat the whole process several times and eventually, either the valk or you will yield (aka give up). OK that was just an unfunny joke.

AnywayS, just relax and send us more pictures surrounding the problematic areas/mechanisms, and someone on the board normally would be able to help by scribbling some notes/pointers/arrows on the pictures you took.

Just ordered my first 25 valk and will see how I'll fare, solving this mechanical puzzle.

[abbadon]

I also experienced difficulties transforming my VF-25F the first time. After three to four transformations I broke the right black fin on the head of my Alto trying to transform it back to fighter mode. I haven't touch that thing since. Looking for Super Parts so that I could keep this displayed in fighter mode.

[MacrossJunkie]

Just curious, has anyone's VF-25F renewal suffered from signs of yellowing and is the white painted on or just raw plastic?

Kinda tempted to get one but I'm always hesitant to buy white coloured valks (or toys for that matter) since the weather is pretty hot and humid over here.

The white areas are bare plastic except for the die-cast parts like the shoulder blocks and hips/intakes.

My first release renewal 25F is still pristine white. But the fact that I keep it enclosed in a glass display cabinet and also have the whole thing clear coated may affect results.

I managed to coerce the head back into position for fighter, the main frustration I'm having is the lack of direction, for such a complex neck and chest transformation I found myself miles from having any of that sitting properly. Thanks again for anyone that tried to help but I think this is a lost cause for me, I have an old roommate in town for the next two weeks who may want to go home with this. Can't say I didn't try, but this 25 business is not for me. I managed to get it back into fighter and geez, the fit is all over the place, it's way more gappy then before I touched it lol, and it appears one of my arms screwed up, they both extend to the same length but one collapses in more than the other so it's uneven, I had a tough time popping the shield back onto fighter, looks like I'm cancelling those super parts!

Sorry to hear that. Wish we could have helped more. Hopefully your old roommate will take it off your hands.

[miro79]

To be honest, i think the VF-25 is very easy to transform. Nothing compared to the VF-171. Or the VF-19

I dont really understand where you have trouble transforming it @TKing22. You just have to turn the head so its facing backwards, and push in the double hinged neckplate.

If u are still haveing trouble, i can try to do a drawing for you.

[joppewo]

The white areas are bare plastic except for the die-cast parts like the shoulder blocks and hips/intakes.

My first release renewal 25F is still pristine white. But the fact that I keep it enclosed in a glass display cabinet and also have the whole thing clear coated may affect results.

Thanks for the information! May I ask, which type of clear coat do you use?

[MacrossJunkie]

Thanks for the information! May I ask, which type of clear coat do you use?

I used Future mixed with Tamiya flat base. Future itself has some anti-UV properties which probably help.

[Dobber]

I used Future mixed with Tamiya flat base. Future itself has some anti-UV properties which probably help.

What ratio do you use? I've heard it can be tricky.

Chris

[MacrossJunkie]

Well, these days, I've switched to Vallejo Matt Varnish instead of Tamiya Flat Base. My answer above was in reference to what I sprayed my 25F with.
Everything just comes out looking better with the Vallejo varnish and is more forgiving with how you spray it compared to the Tamiya base and I don't run the risk of occasional white specks of undissolved flat base all over what I'm spraying.

It can be sprayed by itself if you want something dead flat. It can also be mixed with distilled water or, as I prefer, Future.
My mix with the level of flatness I want with Future and Vallejo tends to be a ratio of 5 drops of Vallejo to 11 drops of Future. Flatter mixes will be about a 1:1 ratio.

Examples of the results of it can be seen in the pics of my König Monster (my first attempt with this mix so I was still figuring out the ratios, it has since been resprayed to be flatter), Isamu YF-29, RVF-25, Super packs for the RVF25 and 25G, 25A, my 2nd 171 and armor parts, and Macross Quarter with the panel lines all drawn and done up in the past pages of the 1/48+fp's, 1/60+fp's, 1/72 and now 1/2000 and 1/3000 Picture G thread or the album in my sig. Prior to those I mentioned, I was still using the Tamiya and Future combo.

Edit: Further explanation on what I mean by the Vallejo mix being more forgiving. If too much is sprayed and it pools a little or it spatters, after it dries it still looks uniform. If the same thing happened with the Tamiya mix, the result is obvious and terrible and you have to remove the coat and redo it or try to fix it as best you can. It can also be brushed on without visible streaks. I do this with the canopy frames. When I did this with the Tamiya mix, it would dry unevenly with streaks or swirls of white. It's much easier to fix mistakes or accidental scratches too as it just blends better. Multple coats of the Tamiya mix, especially in a localized area, just tends to get whiter and whiter, the more you spray it while the Vallejo doesn't.

Edited February 23, 2014 by MacrossJunkie

[Dobber]

Cool thanks! I have been looking for a new flat coat to use since Tamiya discontinued it's flat spray here in the US.

Chris

[Chronocidal]

I managed to coerce the head back into position for fighter, the main frustration I'm having is the lack of direction, for such a complex neck and chest transformation I found myself miles from having any of that sitting properly. Thanks again for anyone that tried to help but I think this is a lost cause for me, I have an old roommate in town for the next two weeks who may want to go home with this. Can't say I didn't try, but this 25 business is not for me. I managed to get it back into fighter and geez, the fit is all over the place, it's way more gappy then before I touched it lol, and it appears one of my arms screwed up, they both extend to the same length but one collapses in more than the other so it's uneven, I had a tough time popping the shield back onto fighter, looks like I'm cancelling those super parts!

Sorry for the late reply, but your trouble actually sounds like what happened with my super-pack release VF-27. Mine was mis-transformed, and completely out of whack right in the box, as if someone had half-transformed it, and then didn't bother to put it back before boxing it up. After some close inspection though, I realized that the entire chest/arm area had been assembled backwards, with pieces swapped left for right, and mounted upside down even.

If things are fitting that badly, I'd really do a careful piece-by-piece check against close-ups in the instructions and videos to make sure that everything is actually assembled correctly. There are a lot of pieces that don't have a very clear difference between left and right, but if they're in the wrong place, the plane will not transform at all, into any mode. I had to disassemble and reassemble the entire chest plate on my VF-27 before I could even get the arms to sit correctly in fighter mode, much less actually unfold for gerwalk or battroid.

[David Hingtgen]

Yeah, that info is very useful, as I'm running low on Tamiya Flat Base and it seems unavailable for the time being.

[evolution_ayu]

If you don't have an airbrush or for prefer the convenience of canned sprays I'd like to recommend Mr Super Clear UV Cut. It's very forgiving to use as well. It doesn't frost as easily as the non-UV cut version but either way if it does happen you can simply spray another layer over it to eliminate it.