Using Shapeways to make spare parts

[VF5SS]

http://www.shapeways.com/

So I got to thinking, Transformers fans have started using this plastic parts printing service to create all kinds of stuff including guns and spare parts for old toys.

http://www.shapeways.com/gallery?mg%5Bsearch%5D%5Btags_search%5D=Transformers

Has anyone tried their hand at doing this for new and old Macross toys? You just need to be handy with 3d modelling.

It's not quite the same as just getting parts from the manufacturer but I think it might alleviate some of our woes.

[nightmareB4macross]

As we speak, this is what I am working on.

But not to make existing parts, mainly modifications and conversion parts.

[Mechamaniac]

Pretty sure this has been brought up before, but the problem with using grown parts from Shapeways etc is that they are nowhere near as durable as even the shoddy Yamato plastic. So, yes, it can be done, and for add on parts as NMB4M mentioned, it's great. But for something like a faulty shoulder joint, it would be worthless.

[VF5SS]

Couldn't you just redesign the shoulder hinge so it just tabbed in with plastic nubs instead of using a pin. I think that might get rid of some of the issues.

I guess if some guy can make these

http://www.shapeways.com/model/314193/

I dunno what that says about the quality and durability of the plastic. I know DOTM Ironhide isn't that much bigger than a Valkyrie so those hands can't be that much larger than some finicky Yamato or Bandai part.

[GXPT2000]

Couldn't you just redesign the shoulder hinge so it just tabbed in with plastic nubs instead of using a pin. I think that might get rid of some of the issues.

I guess if some guy can make these

I dunno what that says about the quality and durability of the plastic. I know DOTM Ironhide isn't that much bigger than a Valkyrie so those hands can't be that much larger than some finicky Yamato or Bandai part.

that is a diiferent matter...

shoulder joints are to be much durable, since it holds a much bigger piece(part of a finger vs whole arm)

the resistance level is different as well...

there is just no comparison.

[eugimon]

makerbot just came out, prints in two colors and it can print in ABS for 2k.

http://www.makerbot.com/

[Archer]

Wow, I'd love a 3d printer like that, but I would imagine that designing individual products would be a nightmare! More to the point though, I would think that things like shapeways and 3d printers would be more useful in terms of kits, be it macross or gundam, where missing or bland parts could be remade with higher concentrations of detail and what-not.

[claude grant]

As we speak, this is what I am working on.

But not to make existing parts, mainly modifications and conversion parts.

God, I hope you're serious about doing some of your killer 1/48 mods & conversions as 'obtainable' upgrade kits...that would be awesome, and I would buy them!

[boinger]

Years ago, I lost one of the super pack antennae for the Yamato 1/60 VT-1 Elintseeker version 1 toy and

could never get a spare part. I'm interested in this, too.

Edited January 22, 2012 by boinger

[Jasonc]

As far as making durable parts, I would't consider the materials that Shapeway uses, very durable. Their white strong and flexible material is a plastic, but feels like ceramic. Basically, it's a powder that is mixed with a hardener from what I understand, so it's not bonded like injection plastic is. I think if you're looking to make shoulder fixes for Yamatos, or any type of replacement parts, if it's going to be something you move a lot, is going to take on weight, and it needs a lot of durability, that material may not be the one to use. The new printer that came out this year that does ABS maybe the way to go, but again, I don't know how it's cured on the ABS machine. If it's the same way, it's never going to be as sturdy as the original part. I use Shapeways myself, and it works, just not for everything.

[akt_m]

And what about making a silicon mold of the printed piece, then recast it with resin? Would it be durable?

[Mechamaniac]

Yes. This is what rapid prototyping traditionally has been used for. Design a part, and instead of having to have said part made in a traditional, lengthy and often outsourced process, you have it printed on a 3D printer. If the part is good, then you can mold it etc, or go on to have it manufactured.

So, yes, you could mold and recast the part. As with any part, it will be as strong as the medium it is cast in.

[Hikuro]

Not too mention there's a lot involved in getting the paint together. From what I heard you need to clear coat and sound before you can prime and paint otherwise it'll sweep into the plastic material and even stain your fingers when you touch it.

I've placed an order from them 2 weeks ago for a Chromedome head to use on a classics Red Alert figure. I'm hopeful but I'm not in any rush to get it all together.

[Jasonc]

Yes. This is what rapid prototyping traditionally has been used for. Design a part, and instead of having to have said part made in a traditional, lengthy and often outsourced process, you have it printed on a 3D printer. If the part is good, then you can mold it etc, or go on to have it manufactured.

So, yes, you could mold and recast the part. As with any part, it will be as strong as the medium it is cast in.

There are resins that are really strong. There are a few that have aluminum in them, and seem stronger than the original part, but I haven't seen anyone recast with those types, and they aren't color castable. If you're talking about regular resin, then I'd say it doesn't make it stronger.

Not too mention there's a lot involved in getting the paint together. From what I heard you need to clear coat and sound before you can prime and paint otherwise it'll sweep into the plastic material and even stain your fingers when you touch it.

I've placed an order from them 2 weeks ago for a Chromedome head to use on a classics Red Alert figure. I'm hopeful but I'm not in any rush to get it all together.

I haven't heard too much about having to clear coat it before priming and all that, but you do have to sand them to get the scaled lines out, as well as try to get rid of the sponginess that some of the materials used in the growing process give. A good primer should fix that.

[Kurisama]

Yep - I am! I have a few things on the go, between my actual job and what not. Currently; 1//60 Q.Rau TV Ver conversion parts, bits and bobs mainly as a testing ground on my GN-U Dou's, for use on 2 certain 1/60 valkyries...

[tundrayeti]

There are other methods. I have gotten excellent results with my 3d CNC machine. Smaller parts would be tricky, but not impossible

[Hikuro]

I just got my shapeway order. It came out super grainy and needs a ton of sanding. but there's so mnuch residue on it that I'm soaking it for an hour in a bleach solution to eat away the loose particles. I've tried it before with a custom paint job I did on a Rodimus figure some yaers back. And it worked WONDERS.

[nightmareB4macross]

How well do the ball joints hold overtime??

[Hikuro]

No idea. So far decent. although the legs pop out of the knee ball joints very easily. This thing will require a lot of sanding to look and hold decent enough.

[Tober]

Even on the highest resolution printers, detail below 0.2mm doesn't show up. Which makes panel lines etc rather tricky. And unless you can sand the surfaces, you are left with fine 'stepping' along curved or inclined surfaces.

I'm be curious to see detailed results from the Makerbot printer.

[Kicker773]

Yeah whats going on with the optional parts for the 1/48 nb4m... what about thsoe double jointed elbows for the 1/48 =)

[tundrayeti]

Even on the highest resolution printers, detail below 0.2mm doesn't show up. Which makes panel lines etc rather tricky. And unless you can sand the surfaces, you are left with fine 'stepping' along curved or inclined surfaces.

I'm be curious to see detailed results from the Makerbot printer.

The Makerbot printer has horrible resolution. If you check out any of the videos of their models, the layers are very prominent. I have found that a couple coats of sandable primer on a high resolution model with some light sanding work wonders. Also polishing them in a vibration tumbler with polishing grit really takes those print layers out. The technology keeps getting better, I have seen some prints that are so detailed you cant see the printed layers without using a magnifying glass.

[MechTech]

In some cases you will have to use a harder resin. I'm making some TINY parts and researching what would work better than the usual plain old casting resins. I thought of getting a maker bot myself, but resolution is a BIG deal with the smaller scales I build in. When you see the samples they show you in the videos, I had to ask myself, "where are the layer lines?" - MT

[IScustom]

The Makerbot printer has horrible resolution. If you check out any of the videos of their models, the layers are very prominent. I have found that a couple coats of sandable primer on a high resolution model with some light sanding work wonders. Also polishing them in a vibration tumbler with polishing grit really takes those print layers out. The technology keeps getting better, I have seen some prints that are so detailed you cant see the printed layers without using a magnifying glass.

In some cases you will have to use a harder resin. I'm making some TINY parts and researching what would work better than the usual plain old casting resins. I thought of getting a maker bot myself, but resolution is a BIG deal with the smaller scales I build in. When you see the samples they show you in the videos, I had to ask myself, "where are the layer lines?" - MT

Agreed. For the purpose of 3D printing tiny parts for replacement, Makerbot is not the choice for sure. I saw some printed parts in person and its resolution is not sufficient.

I personally think every penny is worthy for 3D printing machine. The HP (or other brands) which costs 20K (or maybe I miss a zero) and uses powder as the raw material is really providing a much much better result.

I have two VF-1E kits at hand and am quite sure that the 3D printers used by Shapeways can provide around 0.2-0.3mm resoultion and I can hardly find layer lines.

Edited February 2, 2012 by IScustom

[Jasonc]

Agreed. For the purpose of 3D printing tiny parts for replacement, Makerbot is not the choice for sure. I saw some printed parts in person and its resolution is not sufficient.

I personally think every penny is worthy for 3D printing machine. The HP (or other brands) which costs 20K (or maybe I miss a zero) and uses powder as the raw material is really providing a much much better result.

I have two VF-1E kits at hand and am quite sure that the 3D printers used by Shapeways can provide around 0.2-0.3mm resoultion and I can hardly find layer lines.

There's a page on Shapeways that has detail about the materials and tolerances for the different choices. WSF and WSF polished can produce details down to .2mm. They have others that are even better, but you're paying maybe 3x the amount.

[valid]

i have made a ground crew from my local 3d printer service in my town.. it's 1:60 i think i'm gonna upload it in shape way

Edited February 11, 2012 by valid

[valid]

my 3d model misa hayase is now available at shapeway it's all 1:60

Edited February 14, 2012 by valid

[Tober]

my 3d model misa hayase is now available at shapeway it's all 1:60

Do you have pictures of the final product? That tends to vary greatly from the 3D screen caps where small detail is concerned. I wouldn't expect that detail like the fingers or heel would print well.

[valid]

Do you have pictures of the final product? That tends to vary greatly from the 3D screen caps where small detail is concerned. I wouldn't expect that detail like the fingers or heel would print well.

Actually i never use shapeways product.. but i print it in my local 3d print in my city.. when it finish iwill post it in this forum.. i havent made a prize yet in shapeways.. and just upload it in shapeways.. i think i'm gonna try to print it in the end of the week with shapeway and if everything check out ok.. i will make it available

Edited February 14, 2012 by valid

[milty66]

Interested too. At some point I'd like to help model. I just need sizing templates in 3ds max. I am a professional hard surface modeler on the Halo franchise. when I had spare time I could help with some smaller weapons, accessories.

example:I built the original high resolution source geometry for the Rocket Turret, which we sent to macfarlane toys to manufacture.

[Jasonc]

Actually i never use shapeways product.. but i print it in my local 3d print in my city.. when it finish iwill post it in this forum.. i havent made a prize yet in shapeways.. and just upload it in shapeways.. i think i'm gonna try to print it in the end of the week with shapeway and if everything check out ok.. i will make it available

If you want to get the best resolution, use the Frosted Ultra detail material. From what I've seen of it, it does detail up to .1 mm, and doesn't have a spongie look to it.

[valid]

actually i build all my model as a low poly model.. with the hope that the detail although it will be minor still could be capture with the 3d printer.. i'm still waiting for a confirmation with the material from my local 3d printer.. and if everything work out fine .. i will try to print it again in shapeway

Edited February 18, 2012 by valid

[Benson13]

Where's a good place to start learning 3D design? You guys got me all inspired and stuff. Consider me a padawan learner and point out the way.

[IScustom]

I recently got more communications with some local 3D printing agents (for both sale and rental).

They told me that Shapeways (or the companies they commit to do the work) uses super high-end 3D printing machine. I also saw the products using Markerbot's one or others under 10K, they are far worse than the Shapeways's product.

The page on the difference between WSF and WSF polished is here:

http://www.shapeways.com/blog/archives/829-Introducing-White-Strong-Flexible...-Polished-and-Smooth.html

My simple conclusion is that: white strong flexible material is sufficiently good, smooth, and durable, but WSF polished one is providing you toy-level smooth surface.

Edited February 19, 2012 by IScustom

[valid]

Where's a good place to start learning 3D design? You guys got me all inspired and stuff. Consider me a padawan learner and point out the way.

Where's a good place to start learning 3D design? You guys got me all inspired and stuff. Consider me a padawan learner and point out the way.

there's a lot of 3d forum in internet. you could browse some place like cg arena cgtalk and many others for a help and tutorial