1/60 Yamato VF-4G Web-Exclusive Toy

[Tober]

Unfortunately I ordered through NY - not as good as HLJ (but they were first to be available). I doubt I'd get any service since it was my own stupidity. Do you think they would take pity on me? I would gladly pay for the piece!

I was thinking that after the major painting and masking, I'd try to attempt a repair with 5min epoxy.

To those that are sanding the nose seams down, make sure you paint the seams with Mr. Surfacer 1000 after the initial sanding, then re-sand as the sprue marks and the square corners of the seam actually has divits that needs to be filled and may telegraph through the paint job (if you really care about hiding the seam).

I'd send them a picture of the broken piece. You have nothing to lose except a small shipping charge. You don't need to mention how it broke...

I have a Regult that was missing a piece, so I'm sure they have spare parts for breakages.

[eyesonme78]

Current price for VF-4G is at 32K Yen..

[Scyla]

OK, I managed to take a few pics while watching the Ravens game. The last 2 pics show the suspect ball joint that is completely seized. I really am beginning to wonder if the die cast was not already cracked. It took no pressure at all to crumble. I have already shot an e-mail off to NY hopefully they give a fast response.

*snip*

Man that sucks. I hope you get a replacement.

If not you can try to glue it back together. I don't own the toy so I don't know the details (size, tolerances, etc.) but I broke the die cast hip bar on my VF-25F Renewal (don't ask) and I was able to fix it.

All I did was to pin the broken parts together. I drilled two holes in both pieces and glued a small metal pin between them. I think I used a two component epoxy based glue (not a liquid super glue). It stays together rather well because the area were it broke is really ruff (because of the die cast) so the glue can attach nicely. I'm still able to move the leg even if the hip joint is so stiff that it can hold wide stance poses with the super parts attached.

When I pose it I'm very careful and I remove the hip bar for transformation (not a perfect transformation toy anymore ). I would liked to put two metal pins inside the broken part so it is more resistant against shearing force but it was to small for that (you have the Bandai mold so you should know the size of the piece). Maybe the Yamato part is large enough.

If the rest of the arm joints are loose enough and the construction allows for it maybe the arm is still movable afterwards. When I glued the part on my VF-25F I made sure that there is a bulge (?!?!? what I mean there is a glue bubble around the broken area) on the hip bar so it is more sturdy. If the tolerances inside the shoulder cavity are large enough it might even be possible to transform it.

If you try to glue it aware of the fact that shearing force is eventually killing the repair so be very (!!!) gentle with your movements.

As I said I don't own the toy but maybe the post was some help at least. Hope you get a replacement though.

[aceoftherebellion]

That happened to another of my yamatos, and I fixed it the same way, drill, pin, epoxy. It works pretty well, but hopefully you won't have to resort to that. Best of luck!

[UN Spacy]

I am actually taking it quit well atm. I was furious when it happened though.

Yes, the diecast crumbled, because that joint is locked in place. But really it took no pressure for it to crumble. I wonder if the person who built it knew that it was seized and just forced it on.

Pics?

[Loop]

Pics?

http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=36074&view=findpost&p=1014572

[Major Focker]

Kicker, More pics of my VF-4G with Master Light house night scene!!

wow! i haven't heard of this display box. anyone got a reco on where to buy a lot of them (like, maybe 10) at a good price?

since i've been graduallly migrating my library to e-books/pdf, now i can utilize my open bookshelves!

edit: can't seem to find the manufacturer's link. i hope they also make double-width, or even triple width ones for displaying Yamato ships and other Leiji Matsumoto stuff, or Macross capital ships.

Edited January 13, 2013 by Major Focker

[eyesonme78]

major Focker, you can try www.tfh.com.sg or you can try look for master light house in google, it should point you a few places.

I got mine from HK from the distributor, but beware, the casing is heavy!

[CHAVAKAISER]

I loved this bird!!

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/850/1000687je.jpg

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/51/1000689e.jpg

Edited January 13, 2013 by CHAVAKAISER

[lorn_13]

Finally my favorite

Hikaru Ichijo custom

[CHAVAKAISER]

Whoo!! hot!! Very cool!

Quedo atoda madre!!

[xrentonx]

Very cool custom!

[eugimon]

unfortunately, bad diecast happens. Despite being a generally cheap metal, it's still pretty strong, it's doubtful that the guy(gal) putting it together broke it by forcing it. Much more like it was just a bad pour, which happens from time to time.

[ron5864]

Where is the launch bar on the nose gear of this fighter?

Should there be a launch bar since it will be launched from the deck of a carrier on land at some point? I can understand if that is deleted because it is strictly a space fighter launched with a lunch arm.

[vt102]

unfortunately, bad diecast happens. Despite being a generally cheap metal, it's still pretty strong, it's doubtful that the guy(gal) putting it together broke it by forcing it. Much more like it was just a bad pour, which happens from time to time.

Do I hear a Shapeways fix using the metal material? No???

[Chronocidal]

You know, given the ridiculous amount of thrust those engines seem to be capable of putting out, I'm surprised they've stuck with the whole catapult bar to begin with.

It looks like there's a place to attach one, but personally I don't think it's really necessary. When the F-14 went into service, it was the first plane to even use the current standard catapult bar design, and there were other planes on the carriers that used other launch methods.

[VF-18S Hornet]

OK, I managed to take a few pics while watching the Ravens game. The last 2 pics show the suspect ball joint that is completely seized. I really am beginning to wonder if the die cast was not already cracked. It took no pressure at all to crumble. I have already shot an e-mail off to NY hopefully they give a fast response.

Wow I see you got the Zolan Patrol VF-19P when did that baby come in

[F360°]

I been off the Valkgon for years, and then I saw VF-4G, OMG, have to find and buy....preordered stopped, sold out, sold out, argghhhh!. in stock, better do it quick, the item is no longer in your cart. $#@*! ok, maybe Ebay. $499!? sigh.......

[Chronocidal]

Lorn, if you'll forgive a bit of tweaking, here's what I'd love to see someone do with a VF-4 paint-wise.

Ignore the scalloped white underside, and I think that's fairly close to what wm cheng was planning.

Edited January 13, 2013 by Chronocidal

[Golden Arms]

Does anyone have some good lineart images of this valk to use as a sticker reference guide?

[Loop]

Wow I see you got the Zolan Patrol VF-19P when did that baby come in

It arrived right after the new year. It's actually really nice too. I had it in Batteroid for a couple of days but decided I like it in fighter more. I just don't have enough of my VF-19's displayed in fighter.

[Old Man]

Finally my favorite :D/>

Hikaru Ichijo custom

Simply GORGEOUS!!!

When are you gonna make that head unit available??? I've gotta have one!

[wm cheng]

Well, here's some shots of my hinge breakage.

Note to everyone else, do not work on the bird while its together, take it apart to start sanding and masking. I must of damaged my hinges while I was trying to sand the nosecone until I figured out I could take the nose cone off with just two screws inside (argh!)

A sleep does wonders - after tossing and turning all night thinking about the broken hinges, I came up with a way to "rebuild" the hinges. There really was nothing to salvage, the plastic just crumbled. So I sanded it down and found some stock plastic tubing. I then drilled a hole down and added a cut piece of pin as a metal reinforcement like you would pinning a resin model - hopefully that will take most of the stress.

Here's a shot of the finished nosecone...

A shot of the finished wings with the white moveable surfaces (before decals and weathering)

And this is where I am tonight... leaving it to dry and cure. It takes a lot of getting used to working with enamels (being an Acrylic guy) - it seems to take forever to dry/cure and it forms a seemingly dry skin, but its quite soft underneath. I think I've been fiddling too much before it's dried properly and I have a few tiny nicks and dings here and there, but I'm not going to strip it and start over again. I think after I do the decalling and weathering, that should hide some of the sins. Additionally, Mr. Colour solvent/thinner removed the "Made in China and Big West" copyright tampo really easily.

Gotta keep telling myself to just leave it alone! Its soooo hard, I just want it back together again to zoom around...

[Kurisama]

Duuuuuuuuuuude, duuuuuuuuuude. It's SO beautiful...

[Valkyrie addict]

Amazing as always Master Chen. I find your solution to fix the broken hinge simple and brilliant at the same time.

[Raptor One]

Nice work on the FB2012 customs guys! Quick question: are the leading edges of the canards v-stabs supposed to be blue like on the VFX version?

[Chronocidal]

Looks beautiful so far.

Now the next challenge is for someone to give it a white underside Must say, I'm kind of tempted. If we -do- get another version of these, I might repaint one of the current releases using old F-14 markings. I really don't care for where the insignia is located on the side of the nose though.. I know why they put it there, to avoid the notches (and scratching) for transformation, but I'd love to move it down below the canopy so I could put some classic diagonal stripes down the sides of the nose.

[wm cheng]

Nice work on the FB2012 customs guys! Quick question: are the leading edges of the canards v-stabs supposed to be blue like on the VFX version?

They are going to be silver (Alclad Metalizer) but it will be the last step after the clear coating... (to keep it looking like Aluminum)

[Hikuro]

Very nice Cheng! I hope you get it all fixed up man, that's just a bummer.

I've only had my VF-4 a week i think and now I have to box her up along with the rest of my stuff until feb. I'm moving into a new apartment so that's putting my decal project on hold.

[aceoftherebellion]

unfortunately, bad diecast happens. Despite being a generally cheap metal, it's still pretty strong, it's doubtful that the guy(gal) putting it together broke it by forcing it. Much more like it was just a bad pour, which happens from time to time.

That's exactly what seems to have happened with the older Yamato I had break on me. One of the diecast hip joints seemed to shear right off, and low and behold on inspecting the damage, there seemed to be an air pocket right in the middle of the part! The metal-pin+24-hour Epoxy glue technique fortunately came through for me, I think that particular Valkyrie is stronger now after the repairs than it would have been before the break, knock on wood.

Love these toys, but it seems like 10% of the time, crap happens and you gotta take it into your own hands to DIY some sort of fix for them...

[skullmilitia]

I haven't even transformed mine, it's just sitting in my detolf case.

I'm not sure I'm really feeling it at this point, it's nice, but not THAT nice.

If anyone is interested at getting one at cost, pm me.

I don't think I'm going to keep mine.

[Froy]

Transformed my 2nd 4G from NY all smooth and nice . Just the cockpit was a little hard to push down the first time.

And just noticed after some manipulation that some material is coming out from the ball joints on the thighs on my first one from HLJ. What is it?

It does not seems to affect the strength of the articulation.

Edited January 14, 2013 by Froy

[sketchley]

And just noticed after some manipulation that some material is coming out from the ball joints on the thighs on my first one from HLJ. What is it?

It does not seems to affect the strength of the articulation.

Looks like it could be some kind of lubricant. How does it feel on the fingers?

[CoreyD]

Looks like some sort of laminate that was on the metal. Mold release agent?

[anime52k8]

Transformed my 2nd 4G from NY all smooth and nice . Just the cockpit was a little hard to push down the first time.

And just noticed after some manipulation that some material is coming out from the ball joints on the thighs on my first one from HLJ. What is it?

It does not seems to affect the strength of the articulation.

mold release, plastic flash, dried up excess glue, a bit of booger from a factory worker... who knows?

Edited January 14, 2013 by anime52k8