matte finish

[Mechapilot77]

I know some on here hate the shiny finish of the DX valks from bandai. Anyone get adventurous and try a product like this?

http://www.amazon.com/Gundam-Paint-Hobby-Super-Clear/dp/B000W30PIW/ref=pd_sim_t_3

I'd assume to avoid getting it everywhere you'd have to mask or take some parts apart. Disclaimer: i'm not a modeler/builder/painter etc (i haven't painted a plastic model kit since i was a kid/early teen and that was just with brushes), so i do not much about this kind of thing.

[Jasonc]

I know some on here hate the shiny finish of the DX valks from bandai. Anyone get adventurous and try a product like this?

http://www.amazon.com/Gundam-Paint-Hobby-Super-Clear/dp/B000W30PIW/ref=pd_sim_t_3

I'd assume to avoid getting it everywhere you'd have to mask or take some parts apart. Disclaimer: i'm not a modeler/builder/painter etc (i haven't painted a plastic model kit since i was a kid/early teen and that was just with brushes), so i do not much about this kind of thing.

That will give the toy a matte finish, but because the plastic is so glossy, you would probably need to sand it a little so that the plastic has some viscosity for the matte coat to hold onto. In doing that, you kinda nullify the reasoning of matte coating the toy in the first place. That's just experience talking though. Perhaps it'd stick like white on rice, I don't know. I usually don't mess with my toys in that fashion, as I like keeping the toys as they were when I first get them. Gives a little more nostalgia opening them up, and they're easier to resale, if I decide to sell one for another.

[MacrossJunkie]

I've used Testor's dull cote on my Yammies which work just fine due to their textured surfaces. I've tried Testor's gloss cote on a Bandai DX without sanding the surface which comes off really easily. I have used gloss lacquer and Future clear coats on the DX's which seem to work much better. I plan on adding some tamiya flat base to some Future and using that as a matte clear coat for my YF-29 when I get the time. I think that should work well enough.

[Reïvaj]

Why not just gently wet sand all the visible glossy surfaces with a very fine sand paper? That wouldn’t leave any mark on the plastic and you would avoid all the peeling when transforming your toy. You don’t need to sand the painted diecast areas for they are not too glossy.

Anyway, that’s what I’m doing with a second-hand VF-25 of mine that I bought for modifying into an YF-24 and it works.

[Jasonc]

Why not just gently wet sand all the visible glossy surfaces with a very fine sand paper? That wouldn’t leave any mark on the plastic and you would avoid all the peeling when transforming your toy. You don’t need to sand the painted diecast areas for they are not too glossy.

Anyway, that’s what I’m doing with a second-hand VF-25 of mine that I bought for modifying into an YF-24 and it works.

Some of the paint comes off with just fingernail scratching on parts of the Bandai DXs, so I would totally avoid wet sanding, or any sanding for those areas. It's just a real "iffy" type of procedure.

[Reïvaj]

Some of the paint comes off with just fingernail scratching on parts of the Bandai DXs, so I would totally avoid wet sanding, or any sanding for those areas. It's just a real "iffy" type of procedure.

While it’s true I don’t care about some of the small paint details for I’m modifying the toy, it hasn’t been difficult for me at all to just to mask the painted areas I want to preserve and sand the rest, which is exactly what Mechapilot77 should do if he wanted to follow your own advice of sanding before matte coating anyway.

At worst, there are some areas that can be sanded and some others that can’t. Every modeller has his own techniques and I’m just saying what’s worked TO ME. And to me, it has certainly not been a “real iffy type of procedure”

[Jasonc]

While it’s true I don’t care about some of the small paint details for I’m modifying the toy, it hasn’t been difficult for me at all to just to mask the painted areas I want to preserve and sand the rest, which is exactly what Mechapilot77 should do if he wanted to follow your own advice of sanding before matte coating anyway.

At worst, there are some areas that can be sanded and some others that can’t. Every modeller has his own techniques and I’m just saying what’s worked TO ME. And to me, it has certainly not been a “real iffy type of procedure”

I referred to it as iffy, because even if the procedure is done well, if you don't transform or play with the toy, then you don't have to worry about it coming off, but if you do, I've seen some jobs start to look a little unsightly. It just depends on each person's comfort level, toy preference, use, etc, etc. I would suggest matte lacquer, as it's probably a better strength over acrylic and enamel.

[senzan]

Aplogies for necromancy but can anyone comment on this stuff

Ive heard it works very well on most plastics - have seen quite a few gunpla builders recommend it

[EXO]

totally destroyed my Tamiya paint. That's my only experience with it. I got a whole can just sitting there.

[senzan]

totally destroyed my Tamiya paint. That's my only experience with it. I got a whole can just sitting there.

Damn. I was hoping to use it on unpainted DX Chogokins but there are a couple versions Krylon make of the clear coat - one is known to destroy modelling paint. This uv flat matte is meant to be fine on both bare and painted plastics.

Edited December 3, 2013 by senzan

[EXO]

I've used the regular type and it didn't do it to my paint but that UV stuff just destroys it. This is just Tamiya, not anything else.

[Reïvaj]

I'd use Future first and then the matte finish just in case.

[DarrinG]

My Tamiya TS-80 was stopped by the post office from Hong Kong - drat!

So I'm about to order Mr. Super Cleat Flat - what is the UV Cut mean?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MR-HOBBY-SPRAY-170ml-UV-CUT-SUPER-CLEAR-FLAT-MATT-B523-/190489411223?pt=Model_Kit_US&hash=item2c5a0dbe97

I heard this does not go very far - so figure about 1 can per 1 mech model kit?

And how is this product different?

Top Coat:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MR-HOBBY-TOP-COAT-SPRAY-86ml-FLAT-MATT-CLEAR-B503/190529212752?rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D163%26meid%3D3446675890186393289%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D1088%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D190489411223%26

Edited December 16, 2013 by DarrinG

[Falcon18]

First one's a lacquer based spray and second's an acrylic spray if I'm not wrong. The UV cut just means that the coat also protects the model from UV rays. So it has an added protection of sorts.

I personally have used the second and it lays down nicely. I'm sure the first one is good to use as well. Quantity wise.. Yes it doesn't last too long as it's small for the second. One or two kits and it'll be empty. Not sure about the first one though.

[DarrinG]

2 cans of the 'top coat' ordered - thanks . . .