1/48+fp's, 1/60+fp's, 1/72, 1/2k, 1/3k,1/100 and now 1/144

[MacrossJunkie]

WOW! you my friend ARE a BOSS! You have one steady hand/trigger finger doing that kind of thing with an airbrush! I applaud you!

Hehe, thanks. It was seriously a pain in the arse to do. Takes me probably 10 times longer to airbrush it due to all the extra steps involved and screwing up means a whole lot of work to get it cleaned up enough to try again. I often times had to redo a whole section due to having to blend stuff together, or at least that was the case with the VF-1S. I only went with one color with the VF-1A on the white areas which was easier.

I'd recommend using the Tamiya weathering kits or powdered pigments to anyone attempting to do any post shading as it is by far easier to do and still gives good results, although there are some effects that are easier to do with an airbrush.

[Benson13]

Junkie, all your valks scream "look at me I'm better than the one you own".

[Loop]

I don't care what anyone says, MacrossJunkie has some of the nicest valks on the boards! And bad ass photography skills too

Edited August 3, 2012 by Loop

[VF-18S Hornet]

I agree you are the model master of the Macrossworld community.

[xrentonx]

Those are beautiful. I definitely prefer your subtle weathering but that Max Sturmvogel is exquisite. That shade of blue really helps though

[raptormesh]

Love that Max-22S, may I ask what stand is the valk on?

[MacrossJunkie]

Thanks. Glad you guys like them.

The process of trimming and placing the stickers, panel lining and other stuff is a large portion of the fun for me that I look forward to when I get a new valk.

I don't think I could ever just leave a valk in factory condition, not to mention it would look out of place in my display cabinets now. Panel lining and stickers, if available, are the bare minimum I would do. Weathering and such are considered when the toy's plastic and transformation allows for it since I wouldn't want to have to redo it every time it's transformed, or if the toy just looks cruddy to begin with, like the version 1 VF-25s, then I don't bother.

For those wanting to weather theirs, but are too afraid, I say just go for it. For panel lines, use stuff that's easily cleaned off like promodeller's wash or thinned enamel paint. I avoid the gundam pens when possible because they tend to stain, especially on painted areas and they look too thick, heavy, and artificial, at least on light colored valks. They have their place still for certain situations. For weathering, start off with the tamiya weathering kits. The powders are easily wiped off with water if you screw up. Then just practice 'til you get results you feel are acceptable.

It's only when I started experimenting with clear coats that I had some "oh crapcrapcrapcrapcrap!" moments that I had to try and salvage the situation I put myself in due to noobish mistakes. I now avoid modelling clear coats and especially automotive ones.

I only started doing the weathering when I began collecting the v2 1/60 VF-1's and destroids and I don't even have that many to have worked/practiced on. I took a lot of shortcuts too. Despite all that, I don't have one that I felt was truly bad and beyond correction. So I think if a noob like me can do it, anyone with some time and patience should be able to achieve similar results, if not better.

I agree you are the model master of the Macrossworld community.

Ack! Nooooo... I'm far from that. I rarely even work with models. There are many others on this board faaaaaar more deserving of being called that than I am. I consider myself a novice that just experiments with stuff like this to see what works or doesn't. I'm slowly improving as I go, but definitely am not an expert. I do welcome constructive criticisms and suggestions on how to improve so I can do better the next time.

Love that Max-22S, may I ask what stand is the valk on?

It's a clear Mighty Block stand that Yamato made, but seems to be out of production for a while now. I had two, but smashed one out of frustration because, honestly, they suck. I glued my remaining one in place just so it could hold stuff.

[Ignacio Ocamica]

I don't care what anyone says, MacrossJunkie has some of the nicest valks on the boards! And bad ass photography skills too

Couldn't agree more!!!

His stickered, matte clear coted VF-17S is the best out there.

[DarrinG]

You said you avoid clear coats, but if I tried using the tamiya weathering kits, wouldn't I want to seal it with a tamiya dull-coat spray?

[MacrossJunkie]

You said you avoid clear coats, but if I tried using the tamiya weathering kits, wouldn't I want to seal it with a tamiya dull-coat spray?

I do use clear coats, I just avoid the modelling and automotive clear coats. The modelling ones like from Testors and Tamiya don't seem to have much durability. They also remain sticky feeling even years after having been applied regardless of if it's a humid summer or a dry winter. I always feel like I need to wash my hands after handling something that was sprayed with them. The gloss ones are the stickiest feeling, the dull coat versions feel less tacky, but are still tacky none the less. I hear they also have a tendency to yellow. Fortunately, I haven't experienced that yet, myself. But then I haven't had any noticeable yellowing on any of my whitish valks either.

The automotive ones can react with the plastic and slightly melt it or the paint.

I use Future acrylic floor polish for all my clear coats. It's non-toxic, dries super fast, easy to clean, relatively durable when dry, resistant to yellowing, doesn't leave a sticky feeling, can be brushed on or sprayed easily from an airbrush, and super glossy when used by itself. It also mixes well with tamiya flat base when you want a semi-gloss or flat finish.

Edited August 3, 2012 by MacrossJunkie

[DarrinG]

Great to know - awesome photos and great info - thx MJ...

[Benson13]

Who ever thought of using floor polish to use as a clear coat on toys and models?

[derex3592]

I've tried future to gloss coat things before I do weathering, but I'm not quite sure I did it right. Should I thin it before I airbrush it? I just dumped it in the airbrush and sprayed...all that got me was a VERY sticky airbrush trigger and internal parts for like 3 months no matter how many times I cleaned it with windex OR paint thinner!

For Benson...www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html

Edited August 3, 2012 by derex3592

[Benson13]

I've tried future to gloss coat things before I do weathering, but I'm not quite sure I did it right. Should I thin it before I airbrush it? I just dumped it in the airbrush and sprayed...all that got me was a VERY sticky airbrush trigger and internal parts for like 3 months no matter how many times I cleaned it with windex OR paint thinner!

For Benson...www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html

Is that suitable for work?

[derex3592]

yes

[Benson13]

Wow Derex, I haven't seen something called so many different names since Robotech.

[MacrossJunkie]

I've tried future to gloss coat things before I do weathering, but I'm not quite sure I did it right. Should I thin it before I airbrush it? I just dumped it in the airbrush and sprayed...all that got me was a VERY sticky airbrush trigger and internal parts for like 3 months no matter how many times I cleaned it with windex OR paint thinner!

For Benson...www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html

Contrary to normal modeling methods, I just weather right on the bare plastic/paint itself. Otherwise, the weathering pigments don't come off very well when applied on top of Future. Only after I feel it's complete do I apply the layers of clear coat.

I don't thin it out at all. Out of the bottle, it's already very airbrush friendly. You should be able to dump it in and spray, just as you say. I squeeze some into a cup and mix with some flat base as needed for the level of flatness. Then I use an eye dropper to put some into my airbrush's gravity fed cup just to make less of a mess. I've had no problems using it with my airbrush as it cleans right out. Future also comes right off with some rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol.

I'm not sure how your airbrush is designed. However if it follows typical designs I've seen, the trigger shouldn't be getting sticky at all unless you hold it so close to the spraying surface with the trigger wide open that it somehow back spatters all over the brush and your hands. What part of the airbrush internals were getting sticky? Everything behind the wall that the needle passes through should not be getting any future in it at all. After I'm done, the only thing I need to clean off is the crown and the inside of the cup. For the internal section, I just flush out any remaining Future by putting tap water in the airbrush cup and spraying until the water is gone. Use the alcohol to be doubly sure if you want. I pull out the needle afterwards and wipe it, then put it back in and pack the airbrush away. My current airbrush is a Badger Renegade Velocity (really awesome airbrush, btw!), but I've also used it with a Paasche Talon with no problems before it stopped working properly due to unrelated issues.

[derex3592]

thanks for the advice...I'm just a messy airbrusher..i always spill or something..it never fails..I'm trying to get better. LOL.

p.s..whoever designed the "paint cup" for Passche should be killed like Braveheart style...no lid on a little tiny cup that you have to move around full of paint...brilliant!

Edited August 4, 2012 by derex3592

[MacrossJunkie]

I had a bottom fed Paasche VL before the Talon which I lost during my move. The included metal cup was easily spilled as well due to the tilted angle and no included cap. The Talon fortunately came with one, although I never really used it. I just put in as much as a pipette will extract with one squeeze, whether it's paint or Future. It's enough for about 20-30 seconds of continuous spraying at 15psi. I drop in more as needed and I would have to be flinging the airbrush around to be able to spill that small amount. The pipettes really helps me cut down on mess and paint waste. This is what I have and it was well worth it: Pipette 100 pack.

Anyway, this is all way off topic, so time to put it back on the rails.

How about Gamlin's VFs together?

[eugimon]

I agree with Benson13, I look at your pics and then I look at my valks disapprovingly...

[Loop]

So so sexy.... Gamlinsan's valks look so nice together with the customizations.

Edited August 4, 2012 by Loop

[Benson13]

I agree with Benson13, I look at your pics and then I look at my valks disapprovingly...

And then I buy said valks.

[derex3592]

once you've gone black you never go back....

[VF-18S Hornet]

got bad news I was dusting my room and as I got to getting around to dusting my nightstand where my Armor Klan Klang and Alto was on, just as I got done with dusting off the night stand and my two figures. the piece that connects the two boosters to Klang were being uncooperative resulting with Klang falling on her ass no once, but twice. The result of the fall cracked the peg on the peice as I tried to pull it off to access the damage, it broke. Had that thing for years and never had a problem with it until now the day I decided to clean my room. And to make matters worse the broke peg won't come out it's pushed fruther in, may have to fing a really tiny screw to drill in and pull it out. Has any one had this problem with theirs.

[anime52k8]

got bad news I was dusting my room and as I got to getting around to dusting my nightstand where my Armor Klan Klang and Alto was on, just as I got done with dusting off the night stand and my two figures. the piece that connects the two boosters to Klang were being uncooperative resulting with Klang falling on her ass no once, but twice. The result of the fall cracked the peg on the peice as I tried to pull it off to access the damage, it broke. Had that thing for years and never had a problem with it until now the day I decided to clean my room. And to make matters worse the broke peg won't come out it's pushed fruther in, may have to fing a really tiny screw to drill in and pull it out. Has any one had this problem with theirs.

I didn't have that specific part break but mines pretty much fallen apart completely. the arms that connect the boosters to the backpack have broken in multiple places.

[MacrossJunkie]

I got around to flat coating my YF-29 so that it looks consistent with the other two. I wish the super pack release for the VF-171EX wasn't so far off. It just doesn't look right without the anti-vajra weaponry.

Alto's VFs again, but in battroid mode this time.

[mass driver]

That is so sweet. Wish I had skills like that.

[Benson13]

Where does he get those wonderful toys?

[ErikElvis]

My new DYRL Fokker with strike pack

Edited August 7, 2012 by ErikElvis

[505thAirborne]

Where does he get those wonderful toys?

Someone just watched Batman recently.

But very true, some very cool pics of Alto's VF's!!

[Benson13]

Haven't watched it recently by any means however I found it incredibly appropriate.

[MacrossJunkie]

I started taking some pics for comparison sake the two versions of Ozma's VF-25 as I plan to permanently keep the version 1 in armored fighter mode once I get the renewal version of the armor and will just look back at my own pics instead of having to transform that frustrating monstrosity.

I knew in my head that the version 1 was crappy, but until I put the two side by side, it didn't strike me just how bad the version 1 looked or I had just forgotten.

There were so many things that are just outright wrong or proportioned badly on the version 1, not to mention the lack of surface details that further helps make the renewal look awesome.

Also, if you zoom in on the 2nd pic, you can see the dang crack on the v.1 that formed on the backplate coming from the right wing hinge due to the stress from the armor packs. I really hope that doesn't happen with the renewal version.

Edited August 10, 2012 by MacrossJunkie

[Benson13]

Unfortunately I don't have any snazzy backdrops or a nice camera but I figured I'd throw up my Mac 7/Frontier shelf for all to see. I know that the V.1 Ozma isn't the greatest but it still looks damn cool.

[MacrossJunkie]

Unfortunately I don't have any snazzy backdrops or a nice camera but I figured I'd throw up my Mac 7/Frontier shelf for all to see. I know that the V.1 Ozma isn't the greatest but it still looks damn cool.

That's cool. I like that you have one for each mode and with a different loadout/pack on each. I'm sort of aiming for that with the renewals except I have to do it with just one of each of the variants and I might need to just stick to either battroid or fighter mode. GERWALK just takes up so much vertical and horizontal space within the detolf cabinets.

EDIT:

My millenium post! =D

Edited August 10, 2012 by MacrossJunkie

[Valkyrie Magnus]

I am not as good as a lot of people here. I took a 1/48 vf-1s hikaru and painted it to look like the max version and then panellined it. It looks ok but it was ready tough. When I was done I was just relieved I didn't screw it up.

Edited August 11, 2012 by Valkyrie Magnus