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1/48+fp's, 1/60+fp's, 1/72, 1/2k, 1/3k,1/100 and now 1/144


VF-18S Hornet

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  1. 1. Do you like this change in topic

  2. 2. Or do you prefer a part five



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1 hour ago, Sanity is Optional said:

One of these things is not like the others, one of these things just doesn't belong.

I just can't get past the McDonalds color scheme and how they actually put a face on a veritech...

What's a Veritech? :rolleyes:

 

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8 hours ago, Saburo said:

Another shot from the archives.

30703782_2055243391398943_1859394718006247424_o.thumb.jpg.65c3a9c3e86820e7a538e160ec314753.jpg

I personally think that this is one of the best all time Macross Valkyrie photos ever taken! I used this for both my PC & mobile phone wallpaper for ages!

Saburo and his amazing photo talents have given this forum and community an immense amount! We all salute you good sir! :drinks:

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On 4/16/2018 at 12:26 PM, Kanedas Bike said:

^Everybody say CHEESE

-b.

:D

 

On 4/16/2018 at 12:44 PM, Xigfrid said:

I have been staring at this picture for 10min, so many memories that come back. Thanks for this moment @Saburo

Thank you @Xigfrid, your words remind me why I collect and take photos. Glad to help other relive fond memories. :lol:

 

On 4/16/2018 at 12:47 PM, Sanity is Optional said:

One of these things is not like the others, one of these things just doesn't belong.

I just can't get past the McDonalds color scheme and how they actually put a face on a veritech...

There is always one person in the class how wants to stand out.

 

17 hours ago, spanner said:

I personally think that this is one of the best all time Macross Valkyrie photos ever taken! I used this for both my PC & mobile phone wallpaper for ages!

Saburo and his amazing photo talents have given this forum and community an immense amount! We all salute you good sir! :drinks:

Thank you @spanner for all your compliments since I first started taking photos, I am honored. :D

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Finally finished turning my old Hikaru 1S into a "premium finish" version as the bright white and lack of a rainbow canopy on the actual Arcadia PF 1S would've stood out next to all my other DYRL valks, and that would've just irked me to no end.

I did steal the PF strike packs from it, though. :ph34r:

Next to the blindingly bright white Arcadia version.

5ada01c5cdb9d_VF-1SHikaru02.jpg.232ca4c66e91b885e550db1f43609bad.jpg

5ada01c7aa46e_VF-1SHikaru03.jpg.664939ff3ac9aa869f2622cf7ae7ac80.jpg

I was just gonna be lazy and do a straight panel line wash and call it a day, but she still seemed somewhat flat, so I did the absolute minimal panel shading I could just to give her a little more depth.

5ada01c9c9b13_VF-1SHikaru04.jpg.5d2249bd3f8592d62b3ceb2f7ca20fea.jpg

5ada01cbcf11c_VF-1SHikaru05.jpg.8c1da82595e159d932395c7291586f3c.jpg

5ada01cd410fb_VF-1SHikaru06.jpg.9be0ee3b8447b23e3d9ba1c8ad1cf5bf.jpg

5ada01c41ce3a_VF-1SHikaru01.thumb.jpg.74d29954c7005025a0b0e43e0f04f0d2.jpg

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1 hour ago, Slave IV said:

Wow, looks great @Lolicon

Thanks @Slave IV

59 minutes ago, sumyumgoy said:

That's nice work @Lolicon

I especially like the panel shading...that's really subtle.  Can I ask what you used to do it and the lines?

Thanks! I just Tamiya weathering kit and some Q-tips. I find that the cheap Wal-mart brand Q-tips with less cotton works better than good quality ones.

5ada170ea2cde_weatheringkit.jpg.89f940b0c0103af3a42221a5a2da2282.jpg

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2 hours ago, Lolicon said:

Finally finished turning my old Hikaru 1S into a "premium finish" version as the bright white and lack of a rainbow canopy on the actual Arcadia PF 1S would've stood out next to all my other DYRL valks, and that would've just irked me to no end.

I did steal the PF strike packs from it, though. :ph34r:

Next to the blindingly bright white Arcadia version.

5ada01c7aa46e_VF-1SHikaru03.jpg.664939ff3ac9aa869f2622cf7ae7ac80.jpg

 

5ada01c41ce3a_VF-1SHikaru01.thumb.jpg.74d29954c7005025a0b0e43e0f04f0d2.jpg

I envy you Lolicon. Looks gorgeous! :wub: Can you continue mine? :rolleyes:

By the way, is it just the me, the lighting or the chest and the front part of the legs looks whiter than the head.

 

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24 minutes ago, no3Ljm said:

I envy you Lolicon. Looks gorgeous! :wub: Can you continue mine? :rolleyes:

By the way, is it just the me, the lighting or the chest and the front part of the legs looks whiter than the head.

Thanks noel. It's probably just the lighting. I didn't give it a gloss coat but it does reflect a lot of light from certain angles. There was no head swapping like my TV Roy. :lol:

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On 4/17/2018 at 7:07 PM, sh9000 said:

Great pics Ignacio, 505th, and Saburo.

 

My most recent HMR pic.

Thanks @sh9000, great shot of all the CF VF-1As.

 

2 hours ago, Lolicon said:

Finally finished turning my old Hikaru 1S into a "premium finish" version as the bright white and lack of a rainbow canopy on the actual Arcadia PF 1S would've stood out next to all my other DYRL valks, and that would've just irked me to no end.

I did steal the PF strike packs from it, though. :ph34r:

Next to the blindingly bright white Arcadia version.

 

I was just gonna be lazy and do a straight panel line wash and call it a day, but she still seemed somewhat flat, so I did the absolute minimal panel shading I could just to give her a little more depth.

5ada01c9c9b13_VF-1SHikaru04.jpg.5d2249bd3f8592d62b3ceb2f7ca20fea.jpg

 

@Lolicon great work on the panel lining/weathering and I love this shot.

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1 hour ago, Lolicon said:

Thanks noel. It's probably just the lighting. I didn't give it a gloss coat but it does reflect a lot of light from certain angles. There was no head swapping like my TV Roy. :lol:

Are you planning on applying a matte coat afterwards?

 

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5 hours ago, Saburo said:


@Lolicon great work on the panel lining/weathering and I love this shot.

Thanks Saburo!

4 hours ago, no3Ljm said:

Are you planning on applying a matte coat afterwards?

Nah, I'm gonna stick with the semi-gloss finish. Less realistic but more like something from an anime. :)

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1 hour ago, wm cheng said:

Looks great Lolicon!  Where did you get the decals for the fast packs?  Are they Hasegawa 1/72 scale ones?

Thanks man! Yeah they were stolen from a Hasegawa kit. I have dozens of decal sheets from various kits and third party sellers from ebay that have reprinted them from.

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14 hours ago, no3Ljm said:

But it already has topcoat, right? :rolleyes:

 

Oh yeah, definitely. Don't want any work smudging off. :) It's also not that glossy in person. It's the bright lights. I need a better diffuser.

Edited by Lolicon
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4 hours ago, Lolicon said:

Oh yeah, definitely. Don't want any work smudging off. :) It's also not that glossy in person. It's the bright lights. I need a better diffuser.

I found that when I clear coated, the Tamiya white powder disappeared - let me know if you find the same thing?

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51 minutes ago, wm cheng said:

I found that when I clear coated, the Tamiya white powder disappeared - let me know if you find the same thing?

It fades a lot when coated. To get it to show up properly, I have to apply it pretty heavily before coating it.

Wish I had a 'before' picture but this is the final result after applying it pretty liberally then coating it.

5addec8c43c01_VF-1Swhiteweathering.jpg.57dce29b4f48cd6ed56c00fb4a301795.jpg

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1 hour ago, Lolicon said:

It fades a lot when coated. To get it to show up properly, I have to apply it pretty heavily before coating it.

Wish I had a 'before' picture but this is the final result after applying it pretty liberally then coating it.

5addec8c43c01_VF-1Swhiteweathering.jpg.57dce29b4f48cd6ed56c00fb4a301795.jpg

Superb! I really wish I have a lot of time like you. ^_^

And that is why I'm not looking forward on those Master Grade Hazels & Hrududus even though I love those Gundam designs. I'll just wait for Robot Damashii, or Metal Damashii, or Metal Builds versions. Huhuhu. :cray: 

Edited by no3Ljm
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Ah thanks Lolicon, that's why... I'm usually pretty light on my weather (hate to over do it) so I get it just right or a bit under then clear coat it and it disappears - argh.   I'll try to over do it next time and see if that helps.  I end up dry-brushing it with white paint now to get it to show, but it doesn't offer the fine control and shading the Tamiya powders offers.

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17 hours ago, no3Ljm said:

Superb! I really wish I have a lot of time like you. ^_^

And that is why I'm not looking forward on those Master Grade Hazels & Hrududus even though I love those Gundam designs. I'll just wait for Robot Damashii, or Metal Damashii, or Metal Builds versions. Huhuhu. :cray: 

Haha well the shading was actually the fastest part of the work. The panel lines and decals took much longer. I just took a quick & light approach for the most part. Once you get the hang of it it goes really fast. 

15 hours ago, wm cheng said:

Ah thanks Lolicon, that's why... I'm usually pretty light on my weather (hate to over do it) so I get it just right or a bit under then clear coat it and it disappears - argh.   I'll try to over do it next time and see if that helps.  I end up dry-brushing it with white paint now to get it to show, but it doesn't offer the fine control and shading the Tamiya powders offers.

Yeah, it's just the white that you need to go heavy on. I think I'll have to experiment with the burnt metal powder next time around. 

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6 hours ago, Lolicon said:

Haha well the shading was actually the fastest part of the work. The panel lines and decals took much longer. I just took a quick & light approach for the most part. Once you get the hang of it it goes really fast. 

Yeah, it's just the white that you need to go heavy on. I think I'll have to experiment with the burnt metal powder next time around. 

Quick question since I haven't used this Weathering Master. Do I apply this like how make-ups are being applied? With a dry sable hair brush? Not sure if that's the exact term for the brush. You know, like a make-up brush?

Thanks! :) 

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39 minutes ago, no3Ljm said:

Quick question since I haven't used this Weathering Master. Do I apply this like how make-ups are being applied? With a dry sable hair brush? Not sure if that's the exact term for the brush. You know, like a make-up brush?

Thanks! :) 

Hmmm it's more like using a sponge or powder puff and smudging it on. I use Q-tips because I've found that it's near impossible to clean off all the old weathering residue on a reusable tool, so it makes it too hard to get a really light touch.

It also doesn't stick very well on glossy surfaces (like the VF-25) so you'll have to apply a flat coat of some kind before using it.

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9 minutes ago, Lolicon said:

Hmmm it's more like using a sponge or powder puff and smudging it on. I use Q-tips because I've found that it's near impossible to clean off all the old weathering residue on a reusable tool, so it makes it too hard to get a really light touch.

It also doesn't stick very well on glossy surfaces (like the VF-25) so you'll have to apply a flat coat of some kind before using it.

Right. I forgot that. I read before that weathering should be done after applying a matte or satin since it's not going to stick well with glossy surfaces. So in other words, if I were to decide doing this, I need to:

- Apply Gloss coat after decal
- Apply panel wash/lining
- Apply Matte coat
- Apply Weathering (optional)
- Apply last Matte coat (optional if you applied weathering)

That's a lot of coating and I doubt those will not get ruined or scratch even once I transformed the Valk all over again and again. Oh well. ^_^ 

 

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4 minutes ago, no3Ljm said:

Right. I forgot that. I read before that weathering should be done after applying a matte or satin since it's not going to stick well with glossy surfaces. So in other words, if I were to decide doing this, I need to:

- Apply Gloss coat after decal
- Apply panel wash/lining
- Apply Matte coat
- Apply Weathering (optional)
- Apply last Matte coat (optional if you applied weathering)

That's a lot of coating and I doubt those will not get ruined or scratch even once I transformed the Valk all over again and again. Oh well. ^_^ 

 

Yeah, that's how you'd want to do it... if you're a serious modeler and not a lazy cheapo like me. :lol:

What I did:

1. Mask all transparent parts then add panel lines via wash and/or mechanical pencil.

2. Apply decals directly onto plastic surface, using Mr Mark Setter and Mr Mark Softer (as needed) to deal with any issues with silvering (usually only a problem on dark surfaces like the super parts).

3. Use weathering master for any additional detail.

4. Clear coat to seal everything in and remove masking tape.

5. Profit!

I don't transform my stuff much, but scratching hasn't been a huge issue. Of course stuff scrapes against each other, but that happens with a coat or not.

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1 hour ago, Lolicon said:

Yeah, that's how you'd want to do it... if you're a serious modeler and not a lazy cheapo like me. :lol:

What I did:

1. Mask all transparent parts then add panel lines via wash and/or mechanical pencil.

2. Apply decals directly onto plastic surface, using Mr Mark Setter and Mr Mark Softer (as needed) to deal with any issues with silvering (usually only a problem on dark surfaces like the super parts).

3. Use weathering master for any additional detail.

4. Clear coat to seal everything in and remove masking tape.

5. Profit!

I don't transform my stuff much, but scratching hasn't been a huge issue. Of course stuff scrapes against each other, but that happens with a coat or not.

Thanks Lolicon! Well, we're on the same boat then. I'm lazy too. I mean, I already don't have too much time to do all the steps I mentioned, I rather have something that I know it looks nice custom but still keeping the easy-ness to transform it without worrying too much about the details I added. And to be honest I'm really not going for a museum type of display. I still want to treat it as a toy with just added details. ^_^

 

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