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Posted (edited)

So its been awhile... some pretty cool things going on around here I see... like those parts from Derex... very nice.

I've been a bit busy but tried to plow through some kits over the past few months. Probably the main kit I worked on was a 1/72 Hasegawa CF-104.

Cockpit:

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Fuselage:

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Wings n'stuff with first colour:

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Painted:

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Annnnd done:

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Sorry for the crappy photo quality... I really need to learn how to take better photos.

I also built this B5N2 kate... which has taken me ages to get right because of the extensive amount of PE for the wing folds and everything else.

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So, now I'm working on a couple of things... probably the most interesting for you guys is this kit:

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I'm building a VFA-2 Bounty Hunters scheme from around 2005 in this scene:

US_Navy_050714-N-0000I-004_F-A-18F_Super

I built the intakes from miliput:

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Added some pilots from Modern Hobbies:

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I painted them and made their oxygen hoses by wrapping thin copper wire around a somewhat thicker wire.

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And this is where I'm at today:

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That's all for now, thanks for looking.

Edited by Noyhauser
Posted (edited)

Modern Hobbies is pretty great.. the service I got was fantastic. I've got a few more of their products to use in the near future (F-117, F-2, among others) , which I'll post on the forums.

Edited by Noyhauser
Posted (edited)

More Bandai DX YF-29 landing gear progress:

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Airbrushed life color white on as it covers reasonably well. It's flat so I followed it with ModelMaster acryl semi-gloss clear, then hit it with a wash using water thinned Tamiya smoke, carefully dabbed on with a small brush. I then went back and scraped the paint off the oleo with my fingernail and a toothpick.

The good news is that the underlying steel colour looks convincing. The bad news is that it's not terribly hard to scratch the white paint.

Edited by mickyg
Posted

More Bandai DX YF-29 landing gear progress:

attachicon.gifIMG_20150124_164800.jpg

attachicon.gifIMG_20150124_164809.jpg

Airbrushed life color white on as it covers reasonably well. It's flat so I followed it with ModelMaster acryl semi-gloss clear, then hit it with a wash using water thinned Tamiya smoke, carefully dabbed on with a small brush. I then went back and scraped the paint off the oleo with my fingernail and a toothpick.

The good news is that the underlying steel colour looks convincing. The bad news is that it's not terribly hard to scratch the white paint.

Nice! I wouldn't worry about the paint scratching off as long as you pull out the landing gear out by holding the tire. Shouldn't be much risk of abrasion.

Finally got to try out my new Iwata airbrush and get some painting done on my Shapeways 19 arm weapon today...

That's a gorgeous paint job, Derex! Is that for the Arcadia or the Yamato version?

A bit of a community project:

The S12 community sorely needs these vents.

Pardon my ignorance, but what's the S12 community?

Posted

Nice! I wouldn't worry about the paint scratching off as long as you pull out the landing gear out by holding the tire. Shouldn't be much risk of abrasion.

Pardon my ignorance, but what's the S12 community?

First item: Thanks! I'm hoping I can do that. The white is really very thin, and the metal it's on is very glossy, so it's bound to be easily scratched.

Second item: Nissan 200SX?

hopefully it will fit both...I'm gonna try it out on both anyway. don't know when exactly..work is nuts the next two weeks, but eventually!

By the way - nice work on the arm cannon! Love the way that looks on the YF-19 even if it's completely impossible, physically.

Posted

First item: Thanks! I'm hoping I can do that. The white is really very thin, and the metal it's on is very glossy, so it's bound to be easily scratched.

Second item: Nissan 200SX?

By the way - nice work on the arm cannon! Love the way that looks on the YF-19 even if it's completely impossible, physically.

Nissan 200SX.

Just picked up my second. Figured I'd use it to the community's advantage.

Q9jcHlj.jpg

Posted

hopefully it will fit both...I'm gonna try it out on both anyway. don't know when exactly..work is nuts the next two weeks, but eventually!

Either way, it's definitely going to look good on a YF-19-Kurisama did a really good job designing that, and you did it justice with a crisp paint job.

I'm personally too much of a cheapskate to get myself a set from Shapeways, but I already halfway through modeling my own take on it. Might take another month or two before I finalize it and print it out on my UP Plus 2.

First item: Thanks! I'm hoping I can do that. The white is really very thin, and the metal it's on is very glossy, so it's bound to be easily scratched.

Second item: Nissan 200SX?

A coat of FFP might help to protect it, maybe?

Ah, thanks for clarifying. I suspected it was an AC vent of some sort, but the words "S12 community" threw me off.

Nissan 200SX.

Just picked up my second. Figured I'd use it to the community's advantage.

Coincidentally, that was one of my favorite cars as a kid, followed by the Prelude. But that's another story for another thread.

Posted

Coincidentally, that was one of my favorite cars as a kid, followed by the Prelude. But that's another story for another thread.

Funny enough, one of the guys on the forum is called S12Prelude, after the two cars he rocks.

Posted

In anticipation of Mr. Moscato's Baby Crabs arriving this week, I went ahead and picked out a darkish red for the little buggers. Colonial Red from my new favorite paint line. This will eventually of course be decanted and airbrushed on.

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Posted (edited)

Funny enough, one of the guys on the forum is called S12Prelude, after the two cars he rocks.

He's a man of good tastes, I see. :D

In anticipation of Mr. Moscato's Baby Crabs arriving this week, I went ahead and picked out a darkish red for the little buggers. Colonial Red from my new favorite paint line. This will eventually of course be decanted and airbrushed on.

Just out of curiosity, why bother with an airbrush? Isn't it actually harder to airbrush bright glossy colors than to just use a rattle can?

Maybe it's just my inexperience, but I still need to buff any gloss finishes with toothpaste and paint on a coat of FFP to give it that "showroom shine." And at that rate, I might as well save myself the hassle of cleaning up and go with a rattle can. Airbrushing does save a lot of paint, though. The only time I'd decant is if the paint is hard to get or expensive, like Tamiya TS sprays.

Edited by GU-11
Posted (edited)

The answer to your question in my experience is this...I need better control of the paint flow than I can get with a spray can for the complex curved shapes of most of the Invid kits. I'm also scared of getting the paint to thick and then have it pool or run when using the spray can. I've had this happen when using spray cans before. Also, it's sooo easy to use this stuff in an airbrush because I don't have to thin it. Just decant and spray!

Ohh...Home Depot is 5 minutes from my house and the nearest hobby shop is a 90 minute round trip away...and Tamiya stuff is just to damn expensive nowadays.

Edited by derex3592
Posted

Thanks for the explanation, guys! I also seem to recall in the back of my mind, that it's only hard to airbrush glossy paints when they're acrylic. Lacquers and enamels are apparently "better-behaved".

BTW, how long do you usually let the decanted paint off-gas before using it? I tend to play it safe and let it sit outside overnight, but I've heard of people using the paint after just an hour.

Also, how long can you keep the decanted paint before it "spoils"? I usually just decant only as much as I need for one session, but it would be more convenient to decant more for future use.

Posted

In anticipation of Mr. Moscato's Baby Crabs arriving this week, I went ahead and picked out a darkish red for the little buggers. Colonial Red from my new favorite paint line. This will eventually of course be decanted and airbrushed on.

Looks good. Howz the GOSU coming along?

Posted

Thanks for the explanation, guys! I also seem to recall in the back of my mind, that it's only hard to airbrush glossy paints when they're acrylic. Lacquers and enamels are apparently "better-behaved".

BTW, how long do you usually let the decanted paint off-gas before using it? I tend to play it safe and let it sit outside overnight, but I've heard of people using the paint after just an hour.

Also, how long can you keep the decanted paint before it "spoils"? I usually just decant only as much as I need for one session, but it would be more convenient to decant more for future use.

I just let it sit for about 10 minutes or so and go for it. Haven't tried keeping it long term. Not sure how that would go.

As far as King Crabb, no progress to report really. All parts are primered and need some light sanding/buffing before masking and painting. Just haven't had time and got distracted with side projects. :-)

Posted

He's a man of good tastes, I see. :D

Just out of curiosity, why bother with an airbrush? Isn't it actually harder to airbrush bright glossy colors than to just use a rattle can?

Maybe it's just my inexperience, but I still need to buff any gloss finishes with toothpaste and paint on a coat of FFP to give it that "showroom shine." And at that rate, I might as well save myself the hassle of cleaning up and go with a rattle can. Airbrushing does save a lot of paint, though. The only time I'd decant is if the paint is hard to get or expensive, like Tamiya TS sprays.

Acrylics can be glossed through a number of methods. You can add a paint retarder, which will allow time for the paint to smooth out (gunze and tamiya sells such products), or an different additive that I think breaks the tension down and allows for glossing to occur. The other option is to use gloss coat afterwards... like future or Alclad Aqua gloss. Plenty of ways to get a nice glossy coat with acrylics.

Posted

I just let it sit for about 10 minutes or so and go for it. Haven't tried keeping it long term. Not sure how that would go.

Thanks, I'll try it out. It'll definitely save a lot of trouble, without having to decant paint a day in advance.

Acrylics can be glossed through a number of methods. You can add a paint retarder, which will allow time for the paint to smooth out (gunze and tamiya sells such products), or an different additive that I think breaks the tension down and allows for glossing to occur. The other option is to use gloss coat afterwards... like future or Alclad Aqua gloss. Plenty of ways to get a nice glossy coat with acrylics.

Thanks for the tips, Noyhauser!

The other problem I have is that the finish as smooth as I'd like it to be. I guess I have a habit of not going heavy or close enough, but I almost always end up buffing with toothpaste to get rid of any minor orange peel.

I

Posted

Thanks for the tips, Noyhauser!

The other problem I have is that the finish as smooth as I'd like it to be. I guess I have a habit of not going heavy or close enough, but I almost always end up buffing with toothpaste to get rid of any minor orange peel.

Often a coat of future overtop of that will just get rid of it too.

Posted

Often a coat of future overtop of that will just get rid of it too.

Thanks! I just tried that out on a test spoon, and it does level out any orange peel!

Posted

Not exactly a WIP, but here's a test spoon I just did in preparation for a custom TF job. I used a chrome spray from a brand called TOA, let it cure, and then buffed with toothpaste, and finally hand-painted with FFP for a "showroom shine."

I'll spray another couple of test spoons to see if I can get consistent results, and move on to the actual model.

The pics don't really show it, but the FFP makes it really glossy in person.

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Posted

Looks nice and smooth!

Finally got Isamu's Durandal reassembled. It's probably too soon for that but it was taking so long and I really wanted to get it to a stage where I can display it again.

So the gears are painted and rrasonably weathered now.

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And a top view, showing the canopy recolor, fold crystal recolor, and some of the subtle panel line wash I've done so far. I've got more to do but its presentable in its current state, at least.

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Posted (edited)

Thanks, Micky!

Whoa, that is a gorgeous Valk made perfect by photo-realistic landing gears. The much lighter tint on the canopy looks so much better. Can't wait to see the final results with everything done.

I'd love to try doing the same, except I don't yet trust myself around anything with a price tag above 30 USD.

Edited by GU-11
Posted

Thanks!

Yes, I find when dismantling my toys, it's usually best to not think about how much it cost me!

That said, the VF-25/YF-29 comes apart pretty easily. Especially if you disassemble the rear of the fuselage that's visible when everything is opened up, first. If you try to just get at the screws that hold the top and bottom of the main cockpit together, its all very difficult with screw driver angles and parts in the way. Rather than clutter the thread, if anyone is curious, PM me and I'll send you some pics of the process.

Posted

The Durandal looks great! It's cool to see some pickles underway. The squareness of the capital ship makes me want to modify the one I have-if I ever get around to it!-MT

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