Whats Lying on your Workbench MK IV

[Greyryder]

Finally finished my U.S.S. Hobb Creek All markings are done to 2370s standards, so the side marking is based on the Intrepid class, not the Constitution class. 1/2500 scale, so the pictures are larger than the model really is.

Only picture, where I managed to catch some of my clear coat based aztecing.

Photoshopped!

Background image came from here.

[Berttt]

Thanks MT. But compared to your Deadalus it's a pretty simple build and is nowhere near as well built as yours.

The rest is lit up (I posted some pics a few pages back) but not landing bays. As a bench queen I just really want to see this finished. As soon as I finish rigging the secondary engines and set the mounts for the stand, can seal this up and get on with painting.

[electric indigo]

the 4th gen. fighter with a 5th gen. price:

With it's little brother:

[modelglue]

I've got two 1/72 aircraft/space fighters on the go ATM, aside from my other meanderings.

My Captain Harlock Space Wolf fighter arrived last week. After drooling over the design since I first saw it a few years back I've pined for one in 1/72. I got my wish when Hasegawa released the new plastic injection kit. For anyone who doesn't have one, it is a bear to clean up but it fits like magic. I am planning a seperate rendition of this kit for my glass shelves, a cross-over version which eliminates some forms present on the craft and adds some details where redundancy occurs with the original design. Now, I haven't watched CH for more than 5 minutes so I don't know my way around a space wolf proper, so bear with me as I create a craft that might look like it belongs in the Macross theatre.

I've assembled the fuselage up to this point, I want to add a rotary cannon of large calibre in the nose intake. Other deviations include clipping all the long eliiptical/spear shapes from the ends of the wings and rudder/stabs.

This is where that hefty gatling gun will go. I plan on sourcing some aluminum tubing to keep things neat and tidy. Some smaller gauge tubing will go into the wing gun apertures as well

Next I have this V-37 'Warlock' from Fantastic Plastic's starship design contest a few years back. I have actually painted this and stripped it down a number of times. I have just never been happy with a scheme. I've decided to do this sleek menace up in rebel colors and display it alongside future 1/72 star wars models.

This design takes cues from WW2 fighters much like the space wolf above. Some of the concept art indicated luftwaffe influences and plan profile views sported mottle and rank chevrons like the FW's and BF's of 1942.

Gun blisters and great detail adorn the topside forward of the cockpit. This model has great detail all around, but good luck finding one...

I'll post up more in a separate thread, which I will link to here upon it's creation.

modelglue

[Chronocidal]

Hehe.. I'm really looking forward to the purchasing of a 3d printer, once I decide on a particular type (that UP! 2 is looking good for the moment, but they're getting better/cheaper all the time). I've got a long history of custom designs I made for use in various games over the years, and I'm looking forward to fleshing them out as actual models.

That ship actually reminds me of one of Kawamori's sketches for the VFX design set, the one that resembled one of the old NASA lifting body designs.

[Noyhauser]

Modelglue: I love the new hasegawa kits like these... post more photos please!

Greyrider; nice enterprise. I like your technique for aztek. Few realize how simple changes in the matte sheen can have such a difference.

the 4th gen. fighter with a 5th gen. price:

With it's little brother:

F-2As? AWESOME! I've got one in the stash... but I don't have the right paints yet. I'm going to get the Gunze three set so I can start building it.

[electric indigo]

I'm going to mix the colors for the F-2 with Tamiya acrylics, but the sky blue is pretty difficult to nail down. It looks different in every photo of the real plane.

[modelglue]

...but the sky blue is pretty difficult to nail down.

Maybe this will help, pardon my advice if you already have thought through this option:

Citadel (Games Workshop) has a color in their previous range called 'Ice Blue' which has a new name now, so you'd have to consult a chart to find it's new moniker.

I think this color mixed with grey to dull it down would be a good compromise for your JSDF sky blue dilemma. After googling the plane I see exactly what you mean.

modelglue

[electric indigo]

I have Tamiya Sky Blue X-14, which I use to mix a lot of blues. Adding light grey to make it scale-appropriate should do the trick, you just have to choose where to stop...

[anime52k8]

Adding light grey to make it scale-appropriate should do the trick, you just have to choose where to stop...

I've head this before, needing to make the color your applying slightly different depending on what scale it's in, but I've never understood why.

also, frakk Tamiya acrylic bottles, their lids are the worst things ever. I've got a fat blister on my thumb right now from trying to open bottles while finishing up my GN-X and it hurts like hell.

[modelglue]

That's a great blend of blues, I think you nailed it with the top left row of samples. That's my personal take on it, though light differences and your camera could be affecting what I am seeing. It's a scaled color, so you have a bit of leeway.

...needing to make the color your applying slightly different depending on what scale it's in, but I've never understood why.

The scale effect is used for painting smaller scale models. You would add grey or white into your paint color to tone it down to represent that aircraft at a distance. Other, more intense colors tend to make your model look like a toy as opposed to a representation of the real thing... only scaled down to 1/72.

It's not a rule per se, but it is generally recognized as a helpful technique for adding realism to your display case/shelf. I find it helps create more depth with varied panel shading, weathering, and panel line washing.

I hear you on the Tamiya lids, once they get crusty then you are going to have to get out the channel locks. I tend to use testors pipettes to dispense paint into my airbrush, and still inevitably get some on the threaded glass rim. Careful use of window cleaner and paper towel should help to clear that away. Here's hoping your blister subsides.

modelglue

[anime52k8]

hey, at least I'm done paint this kit, so it's all good.

BTW, yesterday afternoon for me:

Edited July 2, 2013 by anime52k8

[big F]

hey, at least I'm done paint this kit, so it's all good.

BTW, yesterday afternoon for me:

ww-15c-e1348599058619.jpg

LOL

[electric indigo]

I use gaspipe pliers on my crusty Tamiya bottles because I'm too lazy to do my Iron Modeler's Workout properly...

[derex3592]

old crusty Model Master bottles are hidiously bad to try to open! Channel locks now stay close to my workbench....

[mechaninac]

What I do with Model Master bottles, enamel and acrylic, is to substitute their caps for the caps that come with Testor's 1 3/4 FL. OZ. (51.7 mL) brush thinner bottles, etc.; the plastic over-caps on those give you so much more gripping force that it makes most stuck caps easy to crack open by hand. For the really stubborn ones I use the grip of my sprue cutters for extra grip and leverage.

[Shaorin]

frakk Tamiya acrylic bottles, their lids are the worst things ever. I've got a fat blister on my thumb right now from trying to open bottles while finishing up my GN-X and it hurts like hell.

regardless, they're still the best model paint bottles out there, IMHO. then again, i've got a REALLY strong bare-handed grip...

Edited July 2, 2013 by Shaorin

[anime52k8]

Usually, it helps to flip the bottle upside down and drip some appropriate thinner into the lip of the lid so that it'll soak into the threads and soften up the dried paint.

[Shaorin]

i've used hot water before, but that sounds like a great idea too...

[Checkmate]

Usually, it helps to flip the bottle upside down and drip some appropriate thinner into the lip of the lid so that it'll soak into the threads and soften up the dried paint.

I used to do this but the thinner melted the plastic cap.

Hot water is the best IMO but it sometimes removes the bottle label also.

What really worked for me is cleaning the bottle lip with thinner before re-capping.

[anime52k8]

I used to do this but the thinner melted the plastic cap.

Hot water is the best IMO but it sometimes removes the bottle label also.

What really worked for me is cleaning the bottle lip with thinner before re-capping.

I just use rubbing alcohol on Tamiya bottles. I use enamel thinner on model master bottles but those have metal lids.

oh, btw, the best paint bottles are the 10ml Mr. Color bottles with the giant tab on top.

[MechTech]

^{First the plumbing pliers and then I'll run a screwdriver around the edges prying it up slightly around the edges if it's really stubborn. Tamiya are my favorite paints too. - MT}

[Greyryder]

Haven't had a problem with my Tamiya paint lids getting stuck. But then, I mostly only tolerate Tamiya paint, for colors I can't get in Model Master. I hate those cardboard inner caps the Model master bottles have. The plastic coating on them always peels off.

For stuck bottle lids, I've got a pair of channel lock pliers with textured rubber grips. I put the lid between the handles where their farthest apart, then squeeze the ends together. Gives me enough grip to open the bottle, without developing enough force to break anything.

Edited July 2, 2013 by Greyryder

[modelglue]

Well Gents, I have to thank Jefuemon for directing me to Rinkya after asking him about sourcing japan only/hard to get model kits. I sat in awe drooling over the subject matter here, and was so frustrated by the North American eBay prices....

I know this isn't technically my work bench, but it's a bench of sorts. These will be gracing my work area soon enough and I hope to show you how I do along the way.

Don't ask what it cost to ship it or where I had to hide the evidence... (see my sig)

modelglue

[Jefuemon]

Well Gents, I have to thank Jefuemon for directing me to Rinkya after asking him about sourcing japan only/hard to get model kits. I sat in awe drooling over the subject matter here, and was so frustrated by the North American eBay prices....

As I said in PM, please post some pics of the VF-22 Battroid.

[modelglue]

Will do Jefuemon, and thanks for the advice regarding the vinyl.

I'll have to wait for a moment when I can set up the kitchen table for a photo shoot of the resin.

modelglue

[thegunny]

I use one of these. One end fits Tamiya, the other Gunze and underneath is a slot for the lids that have the raised ridge in the centre of the lid. The blue thing is a grippy rubber sleeve that fits just about any jar.

[Noyhauser]

I use one of these. One end fits Tamiya, the other Gunze and underneath is a slot for the lids that have the raised ridge in the centre of the lid. The blue thing is a grippy rubber sleeve that fits just about any jar.

10064123a.jpg

Woah.... that tool fits gunze AND tamiya? I'll have to pick it up at my LHS because I thought it was a gunze only tool. Its much better than my usual approach to use a vice grip.

... now only if it fits alclad lids.

Edited July 3, 2013 by Noyhauser

[Noyhauser]

Well time for another update.

First the spartan is on hold while I wait for my diorama base to be completed. I don't know if I mentioned this but I'm having an architect build me a futuristic building, which I'll then weather and modify.

My five CF-18s are coming along. I'll just post highlights here:

First up... modified seats for the hasegawa kits.

These are the three Hasegawa kits' cockpits basically completed.

Modified intakes made out of miliput:

After copious amounts of Mr surfacer and sanding, as well as a coat of black paint... (all it needs now is to spray white paint gradually to create depth)

When a Hornet is at rest the hydraulic power bleeds... so they are flap down. I've decided to modify the hasegawa and maybe the fujimi kits this way. It requires me to cut out the flaps.

Then using a pop can (just noticed it was canada dry ginger ale... kinda fitting) I cut out a portion which will be the the flap cover.

A close up:

I also did some work on the Academy kit. Its not my favorite kit... a lot of parts that make it difficult to get right.

As you can see in front of the LERX there is a gap and the seam lines are not very pretty. I'll need to do some work to fix that up.

So here is an family shot.

Oh and I finished these two... hopefully I'll have better photos of them next time.

Thanks for looking.

Edited July 3, 2013 by Noyhauser

[505thAirborne]

Outstanding on the Zeros and the F-18s are coming along nicely!

[Checkmate]

Noyhauser: Wow! It's like you have a Super Hornet production line there! I just completed...well almost completed a F/A-18E 1: 48 "Top Hatters" Hasegawa kit. It's my second attempt. I got burned out after making a couple of mistakes. It all started with the intakes!

[modelglue]

Noyhauser: Cool '18's! Gotta love Academy. Is that a newer version of the Hasegawa Hornet kit? I've got one older kit on standby with the triple color camo diamond back scheme aftermarket decals.

As I said in PM, please post some pics of the VF-22 Battroid.

Here ya go:

The casting is not what I am used to, call it naivete but I was expecting something different I guess. No offense intended to the artist/casting specialist intended.

Here is most of the kit, I didn't unpack all of the little baggie. It comes with two heads, and two shins. I'm sure there is more to it than that but I haven't looked to hard yet.

I am going to spend a significant amount of time reworking most of this kit, and I will probably recast it for myself with improvements incorporated. I plan on doing it as the YF-21 in case you are wondering, and will wait until I have the Hasegawa kit on hand before I do any major re-scribing.

modelglue

Edited July 3, 2013 by modelglue

[Noyhauser]

Thanks guys for the compliments. Checkmate: the hasegawa kits in 48 are awesome... I wish I could build in that scale because you get so many cool details oob that I have to scratch. I should correct you that these are legacy hornets, not supers. Intakes are generally a bear in all kits... so much so that hasegawa neglects to add them in any of their 72nd version. Post some photos of your builds, and maybe we can give you some tips.

Here ya go:

The casting is not what I am used to, call it naivete but I was expecting something different I guess. No offense intended to the artist/casting specialist intended.

Here is most of the kit, I didn't unpack all of the little baggie. It comes with two heads, and two shins. I'm sure there is more to it than that but I haven't looked to hard yet.

I am going to spend a significant amount of time reworking most of this kit, and I will probably recast it for myself with improvements incorporated. I plan on doing it as the YF-21 in case you are wondering, and will wait until I have the Hasegawa kit on hand before I do any major re-scribing.

modelglue

I've got a conversion set for the hasegawa YF-21/VF-22 to turn it into a battroid. I'm not sure who made it (I bought it on MW), but you need the hasegawa kit to build it. Do you need it for yours?

[anime52k8]

I use one of these. One end fits Tamiya, the other Gunze and underneath is a slot for the lids that have the raised ridge in the centre of the lid. The blue thing is a grippy rubber sleeve that fits just about any jar.

10064123a.jpg

I really need to grab one of those the next time I put in an order with hobby wave.

Woah.... that tool fits gunze AND tamiya? I'll have to pick it up at my LHS because I thought it was a gunze only tool. Its much better than my usual approach to use a vice grip.

... now only if it fits alclad lids.

I've never had problems with Alclad, I think I'm just way more careful with their bottles. That crap is expensive, I don't want to waste even a drop.

[modelglue]

I've got a conversion set for the hasegawa YF-21/VF-22 to turn it into a battroid. I'm not sure who made it (I bought it on MW), but you need the hasegawa kit to build it. Do you need it for yours?

No Sir, this is a complete kit. I would still love to get my hands on the conversion set you are talking about.

modelglue