Whats Lying on your Workbench MK IV

[Urashiman]

1/48 VF-1 build updates.

Hand painting Hikaru and his seat here.

Clear coated these parts with Tamiya XF-22 for washing.

CLAMPS!

Cockpit details + built nose with cockpit and Hikaru.

I am going for the bubbly canopy, but it has that ugly seam line. I find that weird, because they managed to do the flat canopy without a seam line in the middle.

scratching off the seam line. (Ugly ugly…)

Then sanding and buffing and putting it on the nose. As good as new.

Little snap together just to show off the VF-1

Need to add some putty here and there as well as sanding. After that, masking and priming

 

[Thom]

@sketchley Very nice with popping the deets! Looks twice as big.

@Urashiman Those seams line on the canopy bug the heck out of me! Nice work getting rid of it.

[Big s]

6 hours ago, Urashiman said:

1/48 VF-1 build updates.

Hand painting Hikaru and his seat here.

Clear coated these parts with Tamiya XF-22 for washing.

CLAMPS!

Cockpit details + built nose with cockpit and Hikaru.

I am going for the bubbly canopy, but it has that ugly seam line. I find that weird, because they managed to do the flat canopy without a seam line in the middle.

scratching off the seam line. (Ugly ugly…)

Then sanding and buffing and putting it on the nose. As good as new.

Little snap together just to show off the VF-1

Need to add some putty here and there as well as sanding. After that, masking and priming

 

Nice job on little Hikaru. 
I never understood why they had to put that mold line there on the canopy. 

[electric indigo]

3 hours ago, Big s said:

I never understood why they had to put that mold line there on the canopy. 

You can't get the inner part of the mold in an undivided outer mold (unless you divide the inner part...).

[sketchley]

11 hours ago, Urashiman said:

scratching off the seam line. (Ugly ugly…)

Then sanding and buffing and putting it on the nose. As good as new.

 

That seam line sucks!

But you did an awesome job eliminating it.  Mad skills!

[MechTech]

@sketchley Those Death Star details are a vast improvement over the stock version. The red looks weird at first in assembly, but complete really pops for the right reasons.

@Urashiman Great clean-up on the canopy and paint on the pilot! That's going to be a beautiful build! - MT

[Big s]

So I just got the Hg Torohachi in the mail today and noticed that the clear bubble is two parts. It’s supposed to be one solid piece, but due to the shape, Bandai cut it down the middle. I looked online to see how other people handled the build and didn’t see anything that addressed the issue. I could probably take a piece of plastic and curve it to make a frame as a simple solution, but was wondering if anyone has had a similar issue with something like a clear canopy.

I’d rather have a solid clear piece, and was wondering if anyone here has ever had to glue two pieces of clear plastic together and remove a seam line made from joining the parts and maybe see if anyone had any tips on that process. My worries are if it would just end up highly noticeable like discoloration or air bubbles and maybe solutions for those issues.

here’s a pic of how it’s supposed to lookand below is how all the builds end up looking where they just stuck the two parts together and it kinda leaves a noticeable seam in the bubble that looks awkward to me.

[Big s]

1 hour ago, pengbuzz said:

You could buy a clear plastic ball ornament (Hobby Lobby, Michaels and other places sell them) and use that to replace the clear ball on the kit.

I think that’s more of a last ditch effort in case I screw up the included bubble. But it is a good idea, because my preferred method is kind of untested and I’m not really sure what I’d be getting myself into. There’s actually a pretty good chance of disaster 

[Big s]

4 hours ago, pengbuzz said:

Well, at least you have a backup then if things go south with the included bubble. Personally, I kinda hate working with clear plastics.

It’s definitely not something I’ve tried before, and the more I run the idea through my head, the more thoughts of more ways things could go wrong 

[sketchley]

2 hours ago, Big s said:

It’s definitely not something I’ve tried before, and the more I run the idea through my head, the more thoughts of more ways things could go wrong 

Is there any way you can try out the preferred method on something first?  The first thing that comes to mind are pieces of the sprues for the bubble canopy.  However, they may be too small to replicate the end goal...

[Chas]

If they are two separate pieces that get glued together, there is no way to make that join invisible  -  it is not a seam line - the separation  goes right through from one end to the other.

A seamline in a clear piece, like that on a canopy, does not run through the entire piece from one side to the other (inside to outside). It is more like an indentation ( like a scratch on the surface) and is removed by scraping away the surface to a point below (deeper) than the indentation (scratch) thus 'removing' it and then sanding/buffing the surface smooth.

With two pieces joined together there is no way to scrape away material deeper than the join because it runs through from one side to the other.

On non-clear pieces we can eliminate the line between the two joined pieces by covering  the join with putty, sanding until the added material and the existing material from both pieces are even and smooth, and the painting over that area such that the line between the two parts is invisible. This cannot be done if the two parts are transparent.

[Big s]

1 hour ago, sketchley said:

Is there any way you can try out the preferred method on something first?  The first thing that comes to mind are pieces of the sprues for the bubble canopy.  However, they may be too small to replicate the end goal...

Actually the sprue does have a bunch of extra plastic creating a safety box around the clear parts for protection 

 

26 minutes ago, Chas said:

If they are two separate pieces that get glued together, there is no way to make that join invisible  -  it is not a seam line - the separation  goes right through from one end to the other.

A seamline in a clear piece, like that on a canopy, does not run through the entire piece from one side to the other (inside to outside). It is more like an indentation ( like a scratch on the surface) and is removed by scraping away the surface to a point below (deeper) than the indentation (scratch) thus 'removing' it and then sanding/buffing the surface smooth.

With two pieces joined together there is no way to scrape away material deeper than the join because it runs through from one side to the other.

On non-clear pieces we can eliminate the line between the two joined pieces by covering  the join with putty, sanding until the added material and the existing material from both pieces are even and smooth, and the painting over that area such that the line between the two parts is invisible. This cannot be done if the two parts are transparent.

That’s definitely a worry that I have, but I think I’ll experiment a little with the clear plastic and clear cement to see if it kinda melts the pieces together. I’ve never done it and can’t find an example of it, but I figured it’s worth a try before ruining the actual bubble. I personally wouldn’t try basic putties, but maybe melted sprue for the imperfections if they’re wide and maybe some clear gloss into smaller holes and of course doing some sanding as polishing. If none of that works in practice, then I’ll go with plan B, which would be making a frame to go around it to at least make things look better and if that all goes to hell, then as Pengbuzz mentioned, there’s always cheap clear ornaments 

[sketchley]

In one of the Japanese hobby magazines I remember reading a tip about how to glue pieces together in a way that gets rid of the seam line, without having to resort to putty and other fillers.  If memory serves:

1) Put the solvent glue on the parts of both pieces that are being fused together.  2) wait until the plastic is suitable melted.  3) squish the pieces together until there isn't any gap, and some of the melted plastic is being pushed out.  4) when dry, sand off the excess plastic that was pushed out of the seam.

 

However, I'm not sure how viable that is on a clear plastic piece - as the off gassing will probably cause fogging...

[Big s]

2 minutes ago, sketchley said:

In one of the Japanese hobby magazines I remember reading a tip about how to glue pieces together in a way that gets rid of the seam line, without having to resort to putty and other fillers.  If memory serves:

1) Put the solvent glue on the parts of both pieces that are being fused together.  2) wait until the plastic is suitable melted.  3) squish the pieces together until there isn't any gap, and some of the melted plastic is being pushed out.  4) when dry, sand off the excess plastic that was pushed out of the seam.

 

However, I'm not sure how viable that is on a clear plastic piece - as the off gassing will probably cause fogging...

That’s basically what I was thinking of doing, but with the extra thin, it worries me. I’m actually thinking of trying it with thicker glue as well since I have some spare plastic to work with and see if that makes a difference. Luckily there’s enough extra plastic here to try a few different methods as experiments 

[sketchley]

That's good that you have some material on hand to try things out first.  Hopefully there won't be too much fogging! 🤞

[Big s]

8 hours ago, sketchley said:

That's good that you have some material on hand to try things out first.  Hopefully there won't be too much fogging! 🤞

Definitely plenty of plastic to give things a try

It’s almost like a box around the parts, so there’s plenty of clear plastic to try things like a bit with solvent glue straight out of the bottle or turn some into sprue goo or even a mix of the two or just some thick old school testers squeeze tube. 

[sketchley]

Looks like there's plenty of material to try the quicker/easier two techniques!  (making sprue goo seems like a rather involved process)

Seeing the box-like parts, I'm wondering what the best approach is for welding two chunks together.  Thinking out loud: scoring and snapping a section apart to be glued back together will probably introduce stress marks...  Perhaps gluing the undamaged bottom edges of two parts of that 'box' together will closest approximate the actual dome?

It's a shame that the box isn't quite as clear as the dome.  Maybe put a bit of something like masking tape on the clear plastic close to where you're gluing, and once everything is dry, remove it to see if there is any fogging (and how bad it gets) near the glued seam?

Edited December 19, 2024 by sketchley

[Big s]

3 hours ago, sketchley said:

Looks like there's plenty of material to try the quicker/easier two techniques!  (making sprue goo seems like a rather involved process)

Seeing the box-like parts, I'm wondering what the best approach is for welding two chunks together.  Thinking out loud: scoring and snapping a section apart to be glued back together will probably introduce stress marks...  Perhaps gluing the undamaged bottom edges of two parts of that 'box' together will closest approximate the actual dome?

It's a shame that the box isn't quite as clear as the dome.  Maybe put a bit of something like masking tape on the clear plastic close to where you're gluing, and once everything is dry, remove it to see if there is any fogging (and how bad it gets) near the glued seam?

The box is actually just as clear, it’s more of a thing with my camera and the texture of the cheap table making things look fuzzy. But either way it’s a lot of extra bits to try out some things with.

[derex3592]

Needed a quick break from 1/72 airplanes, so I spent today on the 1/500 Yamato, man this kit is just massive! I love it. Two tiny drops of Tamiya quick setting cement so far to this point. No putty. Bandai was on their game back then! 

Edited December 22, 2024 by derex3592

[electric indigo]

@derex3592 Looks like another impressive display piece in the making!

_

Worm masking & gouache panel lines going on at my Corsair II:

Can you believe the mold is over 30 years old?

[nightmareB4macross]

Took a bit of a break away from my 1/55 custom. In the last couple of days feet and thrusters were created with extensive detailing.

This sure is a fun project.

[SteveTheFish]

I've had this done for a while now, but I didn't get around to taking proper photos of it until recently. This is Arii's 1:100 scale Regult Recon Pod with some aftermarket customization parts. Namely Wave's H-Eyes lens parts to replace the molded detail I filed off.

 

Here is a photoset of the kit with a description of the build:

https://stevethefishdotnet.tumblr.com/post/768755550031921152/arii-1100-macross-regult-scout-type-battlepod

Edited December 23, 2024 by SteveTheFish

[Big s]

3 hours ago, SteveTheFish said:

I've had this done for a while now, but I didn't get around to taking proper photos of it until recently. This is Arii's 1:100 scale Regult Recon Pod with some aftermarket customization parts. Namely Wave's H-Eyes lens parts to replace the molded detail I filed off.

 

Here is a photoset of the kit with a description of the build:

https://stevethefishdotnet.tumblr.com/post/768755550031921152/arii-1100-macross-regult-scout-type-battlepod

That’s a really good build of that ancient kit

[Urashiman]

@electric indigo 30 years old? What kit maker is that? The panel lines look so crisp ...

@nightmareB4macross so much evergreen. looks like it is coming along well.

@SteveTheFish looks nice

@pengbuzz aah ... good old cannon fodder. Haha

[electric indigo]

2 hours ago, Urashiman said:

@electric indigo 30 years old? What kit maker is that? The panel lines look so crisp ...

Hasegawa, Baby! 😄

[nightmareB4macross]

Non-splitting engine exhaust looks so much better.

[Radioguy]

Quick question: Has anyone here had success dying white nylon parts darker colors? (Like maroon)

Thanks in advance.

[Big s]

23 minutes ago, Radioguy said:

Quick question: Has anyone here had success dying white nylon parts darker colors? (Like maroon)

Thanks in advance.

No. But I’d be curious if someone did. Nylon is kind of interesting since it’s a plastic that doesn’t seem to like paint in most forms, but I have heard of some people dying plastics like action figure bodies and not sure if that process works for nylon.

Maybe get some cheap nylon parts at a hardware store or even some nylon chord and experiment with it. There was a YouTube video of a guy that had a flesh colored blank toy body and odd soft goods that he needed to customize the colors  to make a black base body and deep red cape for a Spawn figure and the process may be similar. I don’t remember the channel name or anything, but I saw the video about a month ago and he had to go the dye route because the materials weren’t paint friendly 

[Radioguy]

I was curious as I had asked someone to do a custom paint of a DX figure of mine, and they pointed out the nylon joints won't take paint, which kinda ended that endeavor.

I don't have the dexterity to do the custom paint job myself, so I doubt I'll be experimenting with dying, but I did wonder if that part of the equation could be solved.

Thanks though!

[Radioguy]

1 hour ago, pengbuzz said:

Also: use RIT dye made specifically for synthetics:

https://www.ritdye.com/instructions/how-to-use-dyemore-for-synthetic-fibers/

It's made for stuff like nylon, so it will work better than the regular one. You just dip the parts in and let the dye soak in.

As that describes fabric, would it work on solid nylon?

[Big s]

1 hour ago, Radioguy said:

I was curious as I had asked someone to do a custom paint of a DX figure of mine, and they pointed out the nylon joints won't take paint, which kinda ended that endeavor.

I don't have the dexterity to do the custom paint job myself, so I doubt I'll be experimenting with dying, but I did wonder if that part of the equation could be solved.

Thanks though!

The channel on YouTube was decentcustoms. And the video comes up if you search perfect spawn figure. He kinda goes over the process a bit, but also has links to others that have done it

[SteveTheFish]

Here's something else I recently completed. An SD sofubi figure of Devil Hunter Yohko by Falchion. I used V-Color vinyl paints.

Here is a photoset of this build:

https://stevethefishdotnet.tumblr.com/post/768754345306112000/falchion-sd-devil-hunter-yohko-sofubi-figure-build

[Big s]

51 minutes ago, SteveTheFish said:

Here's something else I recently completed. An SD sofubi figure of Devil Hunter Yohko by Falchion. I used V-Color vinyl paints.

Here is a photoset of this build:

https://stevethefishdotnet.tumblr.com/post/768754345306112000/falchion-sd-devil-hunter-yohko-sofubi-figure-build

Turned out pretty great 

[Chas]

7 hours ago, SteveTheFish said:

Here's something else I recently completed. An SD sofubi figure of Devil Hunter Yohko by Falchion. I used V-Color vinyl paints.

Here is a photoset of this build:

https://stevethefishdotnet.tumblr.com/post/768754345306112000/falchion-sd-devil-hunter-yohko-sofubi-figure-build

Awesome job on the detail painting there. It's all so good, but those eyes are particularly well done. How big is this?

[SteveTheFish]

9 hours ago, Chas said:

Awesome job on the detail painting there. It's all so good, but those eyes are particularly well done. How big is this?

Thanks! She's only 12cm tall. I only wish I had added some flat base to her hair as it's a bit shiny. I painted her eyes with Delta Ceramcoat acrylics, but the rest is V-Color paints. The emblem on her chest was hand-painted with V-Color paints mixed with retarder. It could've turned out better, but my original plan was to mask it off and airbrush the black and white. The detail was a bit too soft to accomplish that, so I hand-painted it. The gold trim was airbrushed though. Hi-Q Parts makes circle masks that made it possible.