Whats Lying on your Workbench MK IV

[Big s]

1 hour ago, nonner242 said:

I didn't even clear coat top saucer yet..it was the rest of the ship that was tho. Yup Tamiya is the brand..have not had good luck with it on any models..just toys mostly. I'm about to go back to my ancient way of lining..just dilute my stuff. Lol.

Something different with this plastic..sure it just didn't work with Tamiya..the rest of the ship is totally different originally and shiney. Now I just flat matte the whole thing while I figure out next process.

Don’t blame yourself, that Tamiya is the destroyer of models. It’s just way too hot for a lot of plastics. It’s basically thin solvent glue with a bit of paint. And it’s particularly bad with Abs and some soft plastics. It barely works for styrene under proper conditions. It’s kinda like playing Russian Roulette with your models. You might get god results on a few, then there that one loaded chamber or devastation. And all it leaves in its wake is just heartbreak. The worst part about it is that it usually works great the first time, then that time it doesn’t, you start questioning yourself and your methods, when it’s really just the product itself.

tricks like enamel and oil washes work well as panel lining with thinners that aren’t as hot like mineral spirits or zippo fluid. Acrylic and water based ones work well also and are a bit safer, but take a different method to clean up. 

[nonner242]

Damn..well I'm never using it again. This is the second time I thought I did something wrong with it..like stated by big s I was questioning myself again. But yeah it does seem like Russian roulette. I'll be doing a non abrasive was for sure now. Prob should throw out all my Gundam marker too. I don't like the pigment ..look dark blue to me not black. And there brushes not marker ones..tend to never gravity feed like they are supposed to. Oh and the cleanup on them is questionable. Most times I still get pigment left that never wants to erase. Its finished at time but bug the crap out of me.

Homemade is were I started and where I should stay🤔😆

[Big s]

3 hours ago, pengbuzz said:

Saw this for the description for their "panel  liner":

https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-Panel-Accent-Color-Black/dp/B005CTJUVE

Example:

I got a chance also to read the ingredients list: "Contents Ethyl Benzene, Xylene, Mineral Spirit, and Pigment." Are they trying to decorate a model, or light a BBQ?!

Seriously though; if you drop styrene into paint thinner, the plastic will crumble. It sounds like this stuff  is simply dirty paint thinner with a kick! I'm going to recommend folks not use this item. Meantime Nonner, when you get a chance, I'd like to see a pic of the damage (PM me if you're embarrassed to show it on the board).

Yeah, if it doesn’t crack, it’ll melt. It’s just way too hot.

 

6 minutes ago, nonner242 said:

Homemade is were I started and where I should stay🤔😆

Sometimes it’s good to try new things, but other times it’s best to stick with what works 

[nonner242]

The rest is fine and matte coated again..but that dirty blurred saucer🤮

[Big s]

1 hour ago, nonner242 said:

The rest is fine and matte coated again..but that dirty blurred saucer🤮

Looks a little toasty, but I kinda like it. Maybe do a light grey or white wash to tone it down a little.

[MechTech]

@sketchley If its not too late (just saw the post), plain ole' Acetone is perfect for ABS. It WILL cement it together.

@nonner242 WOW! That sucks about the panel lining. I think I only use it on bare plastic. The ingredients are part of the same formulation for glue! I guess the Flory stuff would be MUCH safer. It's only a clay. - MT

[derex3592]

Flory's ALL the way for panel liners. The Tamiya stuff is just too risky to paint jobs for my liking. It has it's uses but only in very small areas and I've had more failures than successes with it. It cost me an entire Bandai AT-AT kit years back and that was heartbreaking. 

[Thom]

I know most would as well, but I wouldn't use Tamiya panel line without a good, solid clear coat under it. That being said, Flory's is great stuff!

[Big s]

2 hours ago, Thom said:

I know most would as well, but I wouldn't use Tamiya panel line without a good, solid clear coat under it. That being said, Flory's is great stuff!

Even with the clear coat cured for a couple days, the stuff is iffy. I’ve seen more than a few do the proper steps and have it work fine on most of their kits and then randomly accidentally have a masterpiece turned into a wreck diorama or just plain garbage.

 

3 hours ago, derex3592 said:

Flory's ALL the way for panel liners. The Tamiya stuff is just too risky to paint jobs for my liking. It has it's uses but only in very small areas and I've had more failures than successes with it. It cost me an entire Bandai AT-AT kit years back and that was heartbreaking. 

 I remember that story from a while back. I felt really bad for you. If I remember, it melted the joints or something. It made me more cautious about my own work. And I’ve also had issues with the stuff. It’s really sad to see so much work go into a project just to have it destroyed by the #1 recommended product at the hobby shops for panel lining 

[pengbuzz]

2 hours ago, Big s said:

Even with the clear coat cured for a couple days, the stuff is iffy. I’ve seen more than a few do the proper steps and have it work fine on most of their kits and then randomly accidentally have a masterpiece turned into a wreck diorama or just plain garbage.

 

 I remember that story from a while back. I felt really bad for you. If I remember, it melted the joints or something. It made me more cautious about my own work. And I’ve also had issues with the stuff. It’s really sad to see so much work go into a project just to have it destroyed by the #1 recommended product at the hobby shops for panel lining 

Yeah; they need to pull this crap from the market. Talking heads on Reddit claim "you're doing it wrong, only use it on unassembled models", but the entire point of finishing  is to weather it at the end.

[Big s]

2 hours ago, pengbuzz said:

Yeah; they need to pull this crap from the market. Talking heads on Reddit claim "you're doing it wrong, only use it on unassembled models", but the entire point of finishing  is to weather it at the end.

It doesn’t matter what process you think is correct with this stuff, it just randomly destroys a project and it passes the blame onto the user. 
personally, I think they easily could tone down the recipe, but Tamiya likes to reuse the same stuff for thinner, brush cleaner, extra thin cement and Panel liner. I’ve never had problems with diluting enamels or oils with zippo, but I’m sure there’s even safer ways to get the same results 

[pengbuzz]

4 minutes ago, Big s said:

It doesn’t matter what process you think is correct with this stuff, it just randomly destroys a project and it passes the blame onto the user. 
personally, I think they easily could tone down the recipe, but Tamiya likes to reuse the same stuff for thinner, brush cleaner, extra thin cement and Panel liner. I’ve never had problems with diluting enamels or oils with zippo, but I’m sure there’s even safer ways to get the same results 

Yeah, I agree. The folks on Twitter think it matters when you do it; I think finishing belongs at the end, but this stuff has no place during any stage!!

[Big s]

2 hours ago, pengbuzz said:

Yeah, I agree. The folks on Twitter think it matters when you do it; I think finishing belongs at the end, but this stuff has no place during any stage!!

Maybe they do it before so they don’t cry when their hard work goes down the drain. Personally I usually assemble, paint then a bit of a gloss coat, then panel line and throw the weathering steps in then a final coat. I change up the process depending on how gritty I want it to look 

[pengbuzz]

58 minutes ago, Big s said:

Maybe they do it before so they don’t cry when their hard work goes down the drain. Personally I usually assemble, paint then a bit of a gloss coat, then panel line and throw the weathering steps in then a final coat. I change up the process depending on how gritty I want it to look 

Maybe Tamiya should rename it Model Remover....

[sketchley]

  Thanks for the helpful responses!

On 8/11/2024 at 10:27 PM, Gabe Q said:

You've been hit with the "brittle brown" syndrome. For a stretch of a few years, about a decade ago, the reddish brown color (and dark red) was defective and known to crumble and break. Lego has since changed the formula for those colors and newer pieces are unaffected. 

Yes, Tamiya cement will work on Lego but the plastic along the seam will melt if too much glue or if too much pressure is applied. The seam will be visible even if expertly glued but in most cases the piece will be completely functional. 

In your case, I believe the piece is likely to be part of that bad batch and it'll just break again after repairing.

On the one hand, reading this was a relief (I.e. was it something I did?  Left it in direct sunlight too long?)  However, it has engendered a whole new headache, as most of my Lego was purchased in the "brittle brown" period. 😭

As this is my first experience with it, it has me wondering if different factories (and thus, different plastic mixtures) were used for the sets released in Japan.  In short, as the packaging differs (no set name under the Lego code), are the bricks also different?  (See spoiler for an idea of how the packaging differs)

 

Spoiler

 

 

16 hours ago, MechTech said:

@sketchley If its not too late (just saw the post), plain ole' Acetone is perfect for ABS. It WILL cement it together.

It's not too late!  After reading Gabe Q's response, I've placed a request on the Lego (Japan) website for a replacement.  I've decided to hold off attempting any repairs until I get their response (it's summer vacation right now).

With luck, they'll send a replacement (it's a common part, so it should still be available).  If they do, I am intending to use the broken piece to test glue.  The glues I have on hand are:

Tamiya Cement and Mr. Cement Deluxe appear to be exactly the same (acrylic resin 11%, organic solvent 89%, cyclohexane, butyl acetate, acetone).

The nail polish remover is much more dubious—what one can expect from a ￥100 store product (acetone, water, propylene glycol, fragrance, drometrozole, tocopheryl acetate, yellow 6).

 

I think it's best to avoid anything that will introduce 'fragrance' and artificial colour...  Thoughts?

 

[pengbuzz]

3 hours ago, sketchley said:

  Thanks for the helpful responses!

On the one hand, reading this was a relief (I.e. was it something I did?  Left it in direct sunlight too long?)  However, it has engendered a whole new headache, as most of my Lego was purchased in the "brittle brown" period. 😭

As this is my first experience with it, it has me wondering if different factories (and thus, different plastic mixtures) were used for the sets released in Japan.  In short, as the packaging differs (no set name under the Lego code), are the bricks also different?  (See spoiler for an idea of how the packaging differs)

 

  Reveal hidden contents

 

 

It's not too late!  After reading Gabe Q's response, I've placed a request on the Lego (Japan) website for a replacement.  I've decided to hold off attempting any repairs until I get their response (it's summer vacation right now).

With luck, they'll send a replacement (it's a common part, so it should still be available).  If they do, I am intending to use the broken piece to test glue.  The glues I have on hand are:

Tamiya Cement and Mr. Cement Deluxe appear to be exactly the same (acrylic resin 11%, organic solvent 89%, cyclohexane, butyl acetate, acetone).

The nail polish remover is much more dubious—what one can expect from a ￥100 store product (acetone, water, propylene glycol, fragrance, drometrozole, tocopheryl acetate, yellow 6).

 

I think it's best to avoid anything that will introduce 'fragrance' and artificial colour...  Thoughts?

 

A perm? 🤪

[nonner242]

Florys it is then👍🏼

Sad to say I'm glad its just not me.

[MechTech]

@pengbuzz Model Remover🤣 and then 😕 when reality sets in.

@sketchley I have a tin of straight up Acetone. I don't know if that's available in Japan (without tons of paperwork). I think I use it for gluing (Acrylics and ABS) more than as a solvent for cleaning. Acetone can be considered pretty hazardous. I knew a guy who cleaned B-52 bomber turbine parts in it back in the day - no gloves or anything! He was battling cancer last time I saw him.

Propylene glycol (also hazardous) could impede the bonding process. Its almost like an oil (and is used as one in some chemical compounds). I hope that helps out. - MT

[sketchley]

Update: Lego (Japan) is sending the replacement part.  That's pretty good service for a set I bought 8 or 9 years ago!  (If I'm not mistaken, the piece is from 2015's 70412 Soldiers Fort.)

Looks like I'll be starting that Rigādo Scout sooner than I thought!

Spoiler

大変お待たせしております。

レゴ®の部品が発送されました。5-8 営業日以内に到着する予定です。

~

レゴ®ブロックの組み立てを楽しんでください。

レゴ®サービス

 

13 hours ago, MechTech said:

@sketchley I have a tin of straight up Acetone. I don't know if that's available in Japan (without tons of paperwork). I think I use it for gluing (Acrylics and ABS) more than as a solvent for cleaning. Acetone can be considered pretty hazardous. I knew a guy who cleaned B-52 bomber turbine parts in it back in the day - no gloves or anything! He was battling cancer last time I saw him.

Propylene glycol (also hazardous) could impede the bonding process. Its almost like an oil (and is used as one in some chemical compounds). I hope that helps out. - MT

Acetone appears to be readily available here at what they call "home centers" (akin to hardware stores).  E.g.:  https://www.cainz.com/g/4935185031067.html

Thanks for the advice on acetone—and the reasons to avoid using that nail polish remover.  I think I'll try the Tamiya Cement on the Lego part.  Long story short: I don't foresee any other projects to use it on, and it'll be like that bottle of nail polish remover—after using only a bit on a certain modelling project over a decade ago, it's been sitting gathering dust ever since... 😅

Edited August 14 by sketchley

[MechTech]

Cool and no problem! - MT

[Gabe Q]

On 8/12/2024 at 9:35 PM, sketchley said:

  Thanks for the helpful responses!

*SNIP*

The glues I have on hand are:

You're welcome! 

I used Tamiya Extra Thin Cement when I did my Lego repair. I'm not sure it makes a difference but thought I'd mention it since i didn't see it in your lineup. 

Please let us know how it turns out! 

[sketchley]

In the midst of repairs.  Figured it's best to break it into two stages—glue the hairline crack, and after that dries, the broken off piece.

The crack is the harder one, simple because it doesn't open very wide.  Used a toothpick and gravity/osmosis to feed the glue into the underside while holding the gap open.  Regrettably, added a drop too much glue in one area, but achieved the goal of having as little excess glue on the top side as possible.

 

While waiting for it to dry, I was motivated to go through my boxes of work-in-progress.  Some projects have been gathering dust for 5~, 10~, or more years... 😅  There are various reasons why they were pushed off the back burner, ranging from being overwhelmed at the scale/complexity, to merely changing interests.

Project 1:

You might be wondering what's going on here.  This Gundam was released bundled with Dengeki Magazine around the time they were serializing "Macross the Ride" in 2011.  It's a set based on a Gundam that appears in a Dengeki original story.  It's an old school style kit with limited mobility meant to be quickly snapped together.

However, the neat thing about it is that it was designed with expert modellers in mind and came with additional instructions on how to convert it into a fully posable model!  All one needs are a bit of plaplate, some plastic rods (or leftover sprues), and a set of "PC-123 Plus".

Didn't have the PC-123 set, but as I had enough PC parts leftover from other kits, I attempted to do as much as I could.  I think I've got as far as step 23 for the legs, and I believe I've converted the neck, both shoulders, and one of the wrists (didn't attempt the elbows or waist at the time).

Here's the instructions (first page is the straight build, next four pages are instructions on the conversion):

 

The subsequent issue included a sticker sheet and instructions.  As it's for the straight-up build, we get the wonky thing of a sticker wrapped around the open spaces in the gun!  (top right of the page on the left) 

 

Edited August 15 by sketchley

[sketchley]

Project 2: the next projects are, let's just say, the rather ambitious ones:

 

VF-25 → YF-24 conversion

The plan is to replace the wings in the 1/100 VF-25 kit with delta wings made out of multiple layers of plaplate glued together.  I got so far as making templates out of cardboard.  The point that I stalled at was contemplating how to create the curved edges of the wings.  I figure I can cheat the back end (making it just as thick as the front edge), but how to achieve a rounded form?  Gluing plates slightly smaller on top of each other (like a staircase) and then sanding it down seems easiest, but the odds that I'll sand off the same amount on both wings is remote... 😅  Is epoxy putty the way to go?

 

VF-11MAXL Kai → VF-11MAXL conversion

This project stems from contemplating what the VF-11MAXL looks like.  Based on the other 'Kai' Valkyries in M7, I figure there were very few changes to the external fuselage when they made the in-series conversion into the VF-11MAXL Kai.

Therefore, the plan is to shave off the parts that become the chest speakers, and use putty to fill in the holes.  Then lay down some kind of grey or other 'low vis' paint.  Not sure what I was planning to do with the head... maybe just trimming down or removing those pink parts, and possible adding a backwards facing laser machine gun?

The roadblock with this one is that I've never used epoxy putty before.  Any advice?

Edited August 15 by sketchley

[sketchley]

Project 3: stalled on the final stretch

 

VF-0S Phoenix

In the midst of removing the panel lining wash.  The problem is a) I put two much on (see the chest plate), and b) for one reason or another, the wash partially burned into (or stained) the white paint.  So, the kit is at the tedious stage of meticulously removing the excess wash, while not further damaging the paint underneath, and aiming for a well-weathered look.

 

Macross Factory (and Zentradi!)

The MBR-04 Tomahawk is rather close to being finished.  Looks like it's just decals (and possibly a final matte clearcoat).

The ancillary vehicles that came with the Macross Factory are another work in progress.  I think the oil drums were the next thing I was going to start painting.

Not sure what's going on with the Zentradi...

 

VF-171

The ancillary vehicles from the Macross Factory are either done (the 2 yellow utility trucks) or in the midst of having the wash removed (the two crane trucks).  After that, I think there's only 1, maybe 2 decals apiece.  I figure I can get away with leaving the trucks rather grubby.  Thoughts?

I think both of the VF-171 are finished (the red one might need the panel lines rescribed and a new wash).  Then it's just the kit's stickers, and they'll join their wingmate:

The red is a spoof of the red VF-17 that appears in Macross VF-X2.  Perhaps the yellow one should have been green like the VF-17D Kai (I think I chose yellow to avoid the Christmas colours).  Anyone know of any all-yellow Valkyries?

 

Paper SDF-1 Macross

The tedious job of rolling up and gluing all those little tiny gun barrels was about when I lost steam on this project.  At that scale, square parts are so much easier to get decent results with.  If you've noticed that the colours are washed out, it's because they're actually scans of the papercraft book printed on manga paper.  The ultimate goal is to make this one in spaceship mode, and the other one in robot mode.  Too ambitious?  🤣

 

Rigādo

Perhaps the most ambitious project: making the Bandai re-release Rigādo stand on its own two legs!  I started to glue the leg (knee) joints so it wasn't such a floppy mess, after getting fed up trying to jury-rig a stand for it!  Got lost in the weeds thinking about making it stable in a good-looking pose. 😫

The Hasegawa Rigādo... it's waiting for its buddy (the Scout, not the floppy monstrosity!) and then I'm planning to do something about the gap in the blue plastic between the guns and engine pods...

Any thoughts on which project(s) I should tackle before work starts again at the end of the summer holiday?

Edited August 15 by sketchley

[Big s]

1 hour ago, sketchley said:

In the midst of repairs.  Figured it's best to break it into two stages—glue the hairline crack, and after that dries, the broken off piece.

The crack is the harder one, simple because it doesn't open very wide.  Used a toothpick and gravity/osmosis to feed the glue into the underside while holding the gap open.  Regrettably, added a drop too much glue in one area, but achieved the goal of having as little excess glue on the top side as possible.

 

While waiting for it to dry, I was motivated to go through my boxes of work-in-progress.  Some projects have been gathering dust for 5~, 10~, or more years... 😅  There are various reasons why they were pushed off the back burner, ranging from being overwhelmed at the scale/complexity, to merely changing interests.

Project 1:

You might be wondering what's going on here.  This Gundam was released bundled with Dengeki Magazine around the time they were serializing "Macross the Ride" in 2011.  It's a set based on a Gundam that appears in a Dengeki original story.  It's an old school style kit with limited mobility meant to be quickly snapped together.

However, the neat thing about it is that it was designed with expert modellers in mind and came with additional instructions on how to convert it into a fully posable model!  All one needs are a bit of plaplate, some plastic rods (or leftover sprues), and a set of "PC-123 Plus".

Didn't have the PC-123 set, but as I had enough PC parts leftover from other kits, I attempted to do as much as I could.  I think I've got as far as step 23 for the legs, and I believe I've converted the neck, both shoulders, and one of the wrists (didn't attempt the elbows or waist at the time).

Here's the instructions (first page is the straight build, next four pages are instructions on the conversion):

 

The subsequent issue included a sticker sheet and instructions.  As it's for the straight-up build, we get the wonky thing of a sticker wrapped around the open spaces in the gun!  (top right of the page on the left) 

 

I loved when Dengeki would pack in those extras. I remember buying I think 3 of the gm wagtail conversion sets from that same series. I only ever built one kit using the gm type c. I had planned on doing one with parts from a gm n type and I don’t remember what the plan was for the third.

the kestrel was one that I felt should have had a legit hg kit back then since it looked like it would be more popular. Maybe one day…….

[MechTech]

@sketchley Wow! Lots on your bench! It is COOL haw they designed the Gundam kit for beginners and then said, "For experts only" and added instructions for advanced articulation! The advantages of living in Japan... I couldn't live there. I'd be broke or lose too much weight from blowing my money on hobby stuff instead of food!😁 - MT

[nonner242]

On 8/15/2024 at 6:24 AM, sketchley said:

This is really cool...I like it alot..keep going.

[nonner242]

Moving past the Star Trek issue for a bit.

Im going back to the multiple SDF1 builds and got the old matchbox legs modded to do the splits and a little more painting and rebuilding.

I really like the height difference that the 3D printed parts bring on to the old boy.

Made new antennas out of some paperclips and painted them.

Mostly just have to paint more red stripes..

Oh I'm going to go forward and paint florescent lights on him too. I already did bridge and light on head and they look great under blacklight or without. The bridge is bright! 

[Thom]

Lots of cool models on the table there @sketchley! I would love to do a YF-24 in 1/72.

Nice looking mods tot he Macross @nonner242.

[derex3592]

Hi guys, reporting in with the Academy 1/72 FA-18F finally done. Nice kit, no pilots included, these are PJ Productions resin pilots. My first time scraping and polishing the center canopy seam, but it turned out great. Also closed up the gear for an in flight look. Kit did not offer that option. Wanted this one to look like a carrier based very used and abused aircraft. Long time finishing up this one due to life struggles but I'm proud of myself for finishing it up and on my 49th BDay today. Now on to the Bradley, SR-71, and other unfinished kits. Slowly but surely. One day at a time. 🙂 Hope you enjoy the pics. 

Edited August 16 by derex3592

[Big s]

6 minutes ago, derex3592 said:

Hi guys, reporting in with the Academy 1/72 FA-18F finally done. Nice kit, no pilots included, these are PJ Productions resin pilots. My first time scraping and polishing the center canopy seam, but it turned out great. Also closed up the gear for an in flight look. Kit did not offer that option. Wanted this one to look like a carrier based very used and abused aircraft. Long time finishing up this one due to life struggles but I'm proud of myself for finishing it up and on my 49th BDay today. Now on to the Bradley, SR-71, and other unfinished kits. Slowly but surely. One day at a time. 🙂 Hope you enjoy the pics. 

Looks awesome 

[Gabe Q]

@derex3592 She looks really good! Building the kit gear up is tricky sometimes but you nailed it. Keep building! I'd love to see more of your finished projects. 

BTW, happy birthday. We ain't getting any younger! 

[nonner242]

2 hours ago, Big s said:

Looks awesome 

Super 👍🏼 😎 

I'd buy it 

[Thom]

@derex3592 Sweet looking Hornet!

[sketchley]

Update on the Lego repair:

The top side came out as well as expected.  The bottom leaves a bit to be desired.  Nevertheless, it passed the build test—a little snug removing the bottom brick from the plate that first time, but normal thereafter.

Incidentally, after seeing the horror show search results for 'Lego brittle brown', I'm treating all the brown parts in my Lego collection a lot more gingerly... 😅

 

On 8/15/2024 at 9:25 PM, Big s said:

I loved when Dengeki would pack in those extras. I remember buying I think 3 of the gm wagtail conversion sets from that same series. I only ever built one kit using the gm type c. I had planned on doing one with parts from a gm n type and I don’t remember what the plan was for the third.

the kestrel was one that I felt should have had a legit hg kit back then since it looked like it would be more popular. Maybe one day…….

The Wagtail was a nifty conversion.

As they didn't have the GM Command at the first shop I went to (when I built it), I picked up the Cold Weather GM unit thinking any GM will do.  Of course, that didn't work out.  Nevertheless, as Gunpla kits at that scale are as cheap as chips, I was pleasantly surprised by how the Cold Weather one came out.

I'm not sure if I ever planned to paint the Wagtail.  I quite like the subtle effect of the white (Wagtail parts) on creme (Command GM parts).  The pictures don't really capture it (it's most visible in the upper vs lower legs).  What do you guys think?

 

On 8/16/2024 at 10:05 PM, nonner242 said:

On 8/15/2024 at 7:24 PM, sketchley said:

This is really cool...I like it alot..keep going.

 

I think I will.  I have yet to go through the spare parts box to see if I have any more PC parts that are usable in the conversion (a mobile waist joint would be nice).  Once I get some scrap bits of the Plaplate (from the VF-25 conversion project), I'll make some headway on the Kestrel.

I may be able to skip steps 24-26 (even though it's relatively simple).  Building the back of the knee (step 28) looks a bit challenging, but doable.  Then its merely a matter of finding enough plastic rod to finish all the joints (the writer says he used "3 mm" rod).  I wonder if spare sprues 'thickened' by clear nail polish (if the sprues aren't the right size) would be enough?

And some proper scans of the instructions:

 

 

Edited August 19 by sketchley