Whats Lying on your Workbench MK IV

[derex3592]

Deep dark China 🇨🇳 via New Jersey all the way to TX.... The USS Virginia has arrived!

[Gabe Q]

2 hours ago, Bolt said:

Lol. Ya, i rushed the paint job. But that's ok. Always learning. The cockpit opens up. It could really use a Destroid pilot...

 

2 hours ago, arbit said:

Working on it. Give me photos from all angles and dimensions of the seat and seating area.  Maybe place a 1/72 valkyrie pilot in there to gauge size.

Couldn't you make a copy of the destroid pilot from the Wave kit? Would that work? 

[Thom]

@derex3592 Welcome USS Virginia!!

[pengbuzz]

UPDATE:

Just waiting for the paint to cure fully before I try any sort of touchups or final assembly; I already had to scrape the top back  of the right leg (intake and thigh) doe to an accidental smear from an errant thumb while trying to reposition the part during painting. Once this is set, then I'll use Aileen's Tacky Glue® to attach the canopy (too many times I used model cement, only to need to get it open later), and get to touchups and detail painting. I also need to put the 4 clear wing lights in the wings (joy), and then on to decals.

Stay tuned...

[foundshaian]

Hey, I need some help. I just attempted to prime my new gundam kit with a brand new rustoleum primer but it sprayed out like snow or dust. Does anyone know any reasons why it would do this? My room is neither too cold or humid for its requirements.

[Bolt]

2 hours ago, pengbuzz said:

UPDATE:

Just waiting for the paint to cure fully before I try any sort of touchups or final assembly; I already had to scrape the top back  of the right leg (intake and thigh) doe to an accidental smear from an errant thumb while trying to reposition the part during painting. Once this is set, then I'll use Aileen's Tacky Glue® to attach the canopy (too many times I used model cement, only to need to get it open later), and get to touchups and detail painting. I also need to put the 4 clear wing lights in the wings (joy), and then on to decals.

Stay tuned...

Looking great 👍🏼 

 

51 minutes ago, foundshaian said:

Hey, I need some help. I just attempted to prime my new gundam kit with a brand new rustoleum primer but it sprayed out like snow or dust. Does anyone know any reasons why it would do this? My room is neither too cold or humid for its requirements.

so it's globby ? How long has it been sitting around? I know you said new. But.. I assume it was well shaken. These days i put my cans in really warm water about 10 or 15 minutes before i use them. I also test spray a good bit before hand.

Edited April 8, 2023 by Bolt

[pengbuzz]

2 hours ago, foundshaian said:

Hey, I need some help. I just attempted to prime my new gundam kit with a brand new rustoleum primer but it sprayed out like snow or dust. Does anyone know any reasons why it would do this? My room is neither too cold or humid for its requirements.

Where did you store the can before you used it?

[arbit]

6 hours ago, foundshaian said:

Hey, I need some help. I just attempted to prime my new gundam kit with a brand new rustoleum primer but it sprayed out like snow or dust. Does anyone know any reasons why it would do this? My room is neither too cold or humid for its requirements.

Its not the weather or the humidity.  You just can't trust hardware store primer for fine work.  Especially not Rustoleum, it will be very hard to control the spray without experience.

To get a good result as a beginner, your number one option is the expensive Tamiya fine primer spray can.  You should probably take this route sooner than later.  In the end you will waste more money on the cheap hardware stuff, and they will not be good practice in the long run..

I do use Krylon colormaster grey primer when priming a large structure or display, but not for the main model. 

But when using any harware store primer, you need a lot of experience and care.  You can't just spray and hope for the best. These are my steps: 

1.  First you need to warm it up in a bowl of boiling water for 30 seconds, to melt any particles.

2.  Then you need to shake vigorously for 2-3 minutes.  If its dry and not shaking nicely throw it out.

3.  You need to remove  and clean nozzle with solvent like lacquer thinner. On a fine model, I would only use a new can, or a well tested can.

4.  Spray only out doors and use a gas mask, the stuff is nasty.

5. Test spray on a large card board box before hitting the model, to ensure you like what you see.  If it is splattering and cant be cleaned further throw it out.

6.  Start spraying off the model, and finish the spray off the model in one smooth swipe. Don't spray directly on the model.  Don't create puddles.  Don't linger on any spot.: Wax on wax off. 

7. Practice to paint nice and smoothly on a piece of flat cardboard first.  when you can paint a cardboard nicely, then you can advance to a model.  I use a spray handle attachment to help me control the spray.

8. After first coat let it dry completely over night before more coats.  A "coat" means you attained full coverage with minimum sprays without flooding all the details. Your coat should be very thin.

Good luck.

 

 

Edited April 8, 2023 by arbit

[electric indigo]

On 4/6/2023 at 3:25 AM, foundshaian said:

Are alter's yukikaze kits better or bandai's?

Alter's products are finished toys. The detail level is about the same as on the Bandai kits, but they have more add-ons.

16 hours ago, arbit said:

Meaningless to most of humanity. but not to us 😁

Honk if you feel it.

 

[foundshaian]

@Bolt and @pengbuzz Ive had it sitting in the corner of my table which is also at the very corner of the room. I think I was getting myself into something I clearly did not understand, especially considering what arbit said as I did NOT warm it up nor test spray which seem insurmountably obvious things to do before spraying. You live and learn... if your brain works properly

[arbit]

1 hour ago, foundshaian said:

You live and learn...

The tailor's axiom is: Measure thrice, cut once.

[Bolt]

1 hour ago, arbit said:

The tailor's axiom is: Measure thrice, cut once.

Same as the carpenter. Measure twice , cut once . Otherwise you end up saying " i cut it twice and it's STILL too damn small!"  😝then, you need the board stretcher..  

[pengbuzz]

6 hours ago, arbit said:

The tailor's axiom is: Measure thrice, cut once.

4 hours ago, Bolt said:

Same as the carpenter. Measure twice , cut once . Otherwise you end up saying " i cut it twice and it's STILL too damn small!"  😝then, you need the board stretcher..  

I always thought it was "Measure with a micrometer, mark with chalk, cut with an axe.'

Edited April 9, 2023 by pengbuzz

[pengbuzz]

UPDATE:

The VF-1J lives again.

Stay tuned, more to come...

Edited April 9, 2023 by pengbuzz

[Thom]

Nice @pengbuzz He's looking primed for action!

[Thom]

For my battlecruiser Akagi, the main decks are down,

Some PE was added, as well as the barrels done,

And started on the PE for the superstructure,

 

And, since I didn't have enough on the work 'bench,' the tri-deck Akagi has also been started!

Like the battlecruiser, it is a Hasegawa upper hull mated to a Fujimi bottom, which required far more work than the battlecruiser to get them to fit!

Shims were needed for both the bow and stern, with the Fujimi bottom needing to be nipped and tucked at the rear.

Right now, I'm currently bogged down in refining the armor belts near the bow, adding thin stryene cut to the needed shapes and being blended in. And being blended in. And being blended in. And...

But I believe I am getting ahead of it now!

 

Thom

[arbit]

Available now 1/72 Deck Crew. Set 1 and 2.

https://www.patreon.com/arbitscalemodels

[Bolt]

Looks really good!

[MechTech]

@derex3592 Your sub mottling is looking good! Especially for free-hand work.

@electric indigo That dessert hornet looks SMOOTH! So does your cockpit and pilot detailing too.

@pengbuzz Your VF-1J DOES live again! Its looking good!

@Thom Your Akagi fixes are looking good! It will look great when done!

@arbit Your sculpts look superb! I'll have to get a Patreo account just to download them and save them for a printer some day.

 

Two projects going on simultaneously this weekend. First, the Naussica gunship.

I used .005" thick brass and folded it over .015 wire. Then crimped the brass around the wire to make it snug. The pieces were then cut to shape and CA glued to the flaps. The brass was made to the width of the flaps to help hide the hinge and when done, will be acid treated with brass black to give it a cool sheen (the flap brass still needs cleaning up).

And last but not least, the 76mm Oto Melara gun turrets are COMPLETED! Now the ship is about 1/3 done. These are the first finished pieces of the ship. They will be weathered more with the ship to match. later. Only Turret 1 is shown here (I took a few minutes to get fast photos).

You can see the seam on the turret bottom, but it will not be visible when mounted aboard ship. The toughest part was probably making the water cooling lines and grounding strap that goes to the turret barrel. Thanks for checking in! - MT

Edited April 10, 2023 by MechTech

[arbit]

2 hours ago, MechTech said:

Your sculpts look superb! I'll have to get a Patreo account just to download them and save them for a printer some day.

Thanks bro.  You don't need an account to download, except for patron only variants.

Edited April 10, 2023 by arbit

[pengbuzz]

2 hours ago, MechTech said:

@pengbuzz Your VF-1J DOES live again! Its looking good!

Thanks MT! Right now, working on decals for the 1J; had to use what little decal paper and injet ink to reprint the "UN SPACY" in black for the legs/ engine nacelles. The print was a little grainy (due to the ink nearly being out), but it should suffice; I'll just use a spotter brush to tighten it up once the Microsol is done and the decal is pretty well welded down.

I still need to get back to the Tomcat; that one's going to require more than a bit of explaining when all's said and done.

2 hours ago, MechTech said:

Two projects going on simultaneously this weekend. First, the Naussica gunship.

I used .005" thick brass and folded it over .015 wire. Then crimped the brass around the wire to make it snug. The pieces were then cut to shape and CA glued to the flaps. The brass was made to the width of the flaps to help hide the hinge and when done, will be acid treated with brass black to give it a cool sheen (the flap brass still needs cleaning up).

That's a pretty interesting trick!! Next time I need to do a hinged flap, I think I'll look this trick up!

2 hours ago, MechTech said:

And last but not least, the 76mm Oto Melara gun turrets are COMPLETED! Now the ship is about 1/3 done. These are the first finished pieces of the ship. They will be weathered more with the ship to match. later. Only Turret 1 is shown here (I took a few minutes to get fast photos).

You can see the seam on the turret bottom, but it will not be visible when mounted aboard ship. The toughest part was probably making the water cooling lines and grounding strap that goes to the turret barrel. Thanks for checking in! - MT

Man, the day you finish this, people's jaws are gonna fall right off their noggins! O.o

[MechTech]

Thank you guys for the positive comments!

By the way, did you guys know Plastruct has tiny letters in multiple sizes? Just found this out myself recently. They have multiple tiny sizes too! Cool for plaques (or names on your ship😉) - MT

[pengbuzz]

1 hour ago, MechTech said:

Thank you guys for the positive comments!

By the way, did you guys know Plastruct has tiny letters in multiple sizes? Just found this out myself recently. They have multiple tiny sizes too! Cool for plaques (or names on your ship😉) - MT

Wow! O.o Never seen that before MT!!

UPDATE: Just did the "sludge wash" on the VF-1J; a little worn-looking even after removing most of it, but some white chalk pastel and a bit of drybrushing should fix that:

 

Stay tuned folks... two out of three is almost done (and ain't bad!)...

[Urashiman]

Some progress on the x-29.

I airbrushed the black stuff on the nose and the engine exhaust.

next step:

decals :S

after that, I‘ll apply a coat and do panel lining and weathering.

[Thom]

Looking good there @pengbuzz!

And getting closer there @Urashiman.

[MechTech]

@pengbuzz Looking good! Hikaru's ride is almost ready!

@Urashiman Cool! You gonna paint the Chuck Yeager figure that comes with the kit? - MT

[foundshaian]

On 4/9/2023 at 10:58 AM, Thom said:

 

Like the battlecruiser, it is a Hasegawa upper hull mated to a Fujimi bottom, which required far more work than the battlecruiser to get them to fit!

Shims were needed for both the bow and stern, with the Fujimi bottom needing to be nipped and tucked at the rear.

Did you have to mate a Fujimi and Hasegawa upper & lower hull for both versions of Akagi because the out of the box quality was poor or not accurate? Or was it for other reasons?

Edited April 13, 2023 by foundshaian

[Thom]

54 minutes ago, foundshaian said:

Did you have to mate a Fujimi and Hasegawa upper & lower hull for both versions of Akagi because the out of the box quality was poor or not accurate? Or was it for other reasons?

Fujimi does have a full hull full deck Akagi as well as a three-deck version in 1/700. But in terms of detail. I greatly prefer the Hasegawa. Side by side and their upper hull detail looks better and more comprehensive than the Fujimi. To whether they are 'accurate..?' Conversely, Fujimi's bottom hull looks far better shape-wise than Hasegawas... (plus I was also unaware of the Fujimi  three deck kit, but it now costs a Hondo and I had already bought all the parts almost a decade ago when they were a lot cheaper.)

Of course, now that I've started is when a brand new, full hull kit (not waterline!) will be released by every single ship manufacturer in the Solar System!

[pengbuzz]

1 minute ago, Thom said:

Fujimi does have a full hull full deck Akagi as well as a three-deck version in 1/700. But in terms of detail. I greatly prefer the Hasegawa. Side by side and their upper hull detail looks better and more comprehensive than the Fujimi. To whether they are 'accurate..?' Conversely, Fujimi's bottom hull looks far better shape-wise than Hasegawas... (plus I was also unaware of the Fujimi  three deck kit, but it now costs a Hondo and I had already bought all the parts almost a decade ago when they were a lot cheaper.)

Of course, now that I've started is when a brand new, full hull kit (not waterline!) will be released by every single ship manufacturer in the Solar System!

Which is par for the course in any endeavor; I cannot count how many times I've done a custom only for someone to issue it as a kit just after I finished the blasted thing! O.o

 

[Urashiman]

8 hours ago, MechTech said:

@pengbuzz Looking good! Hikaru's ride is almost ready!

@Urashiman Cool! You gonna paint the Chuck Yeager figure that comes with the kit? - MT

Nah, I left it untouched in the box.

[derex3592]

This..... is what happens when you are up at 4:45AM and think you are going to get some quite time to yourself on a Saturday morning to do some microscopic PE parts...... something had other ideas... 🤔 🙄 😂 

[Bolt]

7 minutes ago, derex3592 said:

This..... is what happens when you are up at 4:45AM and think you are going to get some quite time to yourself on a Saturday morning to do some microscopic PE parts...... something had other ideas... 🤔 🙄 😂 

Lol. Never fails  

[MechTech]

@derex3592 They're there to help you loose build your model assemblies. You should be honored😁 Ha ha! - MT

[mechaninac]

When you want them, they're nowhere to be found; when you don't...whatcha'doin'?...I'm gonna make myself comfy right here, can I help?... 

[foundshaian]

Hey guys, I am about to attempt to re-prime my gundam. How many coats of primer should i put on before painting? The parts are extremely small for a 1/144 kit and most of the parts are no wider or larger than an average thumb.

Edited April 15, 2023 by foundshaian