Whats Lying on your Workbench MK IV

[pengbuzz]

5 hours ago, peter said:

@arbit

LOL, I used weathering and battle damage to hide some flaws. 

@Thom

Uh, yeah, my recommendation is to not get too comfortable posing these things...

BTW, I want to do something WWII now.... Really want that 1/32 B17,  ut that's a quick way to get on the wife's $hitlist. 

@derex3592

That would be amazing, a glass base!  I just find a chunk of wood and spray it charcoal.  I should put more effort into the displays. 

@MechTech

I also used a real camera as opposed to my cell phone, hahahaha!  

So about posing the Hasegawa Battroid.... I've come to realize it's best to pick a pose and leave it.

After the photo session: 

I knew this hip assembly was a weak point.

First one shoulder peg broke. 

Then the other. 

8 year old me would not be impressed, lol! 

Anyway, I don't usually play with my models after I build them anyway, but the plastic on the Hasegawa is Ike butter. Pose able, but not really. 

Hahahaha! 

I superglued the pegs back in place, and they are holding, but I don't think I will mess with it anymore.  On to the shelf and leave it alone. 

 

You may want to replace those pegs with either a stronger styrene or possibly ABS.

[Chronocidal]

I would actually just straight up drill them out, and pin them with segments of either small nails, or straight pins of some kind.  Could even be a good use for some of those old knurled pins from the early Yamato v2 releases.  

 

[Thom]

@peter Ouch! sometimes, they must be retired to Static-Display Status. Rather than a Gate Guard, you can call it a Shelf Guard.

As for the B-17, do a Bait-n-Switch. Talk up the 1/32 like you can't live without it, then say you'll 'settle' for the new 1/48 version!

 

[sketchley]

9 hours ago, peter said:

First one shoulder peg broke. 

 

Then the other.

Exactly what happened to mine.

At the time, I suspected it was (bad) old glue.  However, it looks like it's a manufacturing error—the way that the shoulder peg is assembled makes it inherently weak.  Something like 1/2 the peg's base is molded on one half of the shoulder box, and one has to rely on plastic cement to "weld" the rest of the peg to the other half of the shoulder box.

Edited May 1, 2021 by sketchley

[pengbuzz]

First post in the Workbench since the migration!

[MechTech]

@pengbuzz Wins the prize! What, I don't know!

@peter I agree, drill and pin those pieces. That'll teach 'em!

Getting there slowly... Milled some round waist pieces with a 30 degree angle and drilled a hole. Then milled a round peg to fit tightly into it. The light blue pieces are old Airfix sprues. They are 1/4" thick! They won't break easily. Then drilled holes in the right shoulders for pegs. The pegs were put in a lathe, had the ends heated up with a lighter to create a flange, and then trued it up to seat flush on the shoulder interior. The interior was then reinforced with a plate. Its nice-n-solid now.

Have a good week guys! - MT

[derex3592]

Runabout UPDATE!  I got tired of trying to mix and airbrush an acrylic basecoat on a model this size. Sorry, don't have the time nor the patience!  Congrats for those who can deal with acrylics on a large scale.  I can't.    So the Tamiya AS-16 USAF Light Grey  spray can came out and bam - base color DONE!  I'm happy to report the Runabout is now ready for what I call "the FUN part"!  Detail painting (with Tamiya acrylics, great for that!) decals, weathering, etc! NO MORE putty, priming or sanding! Thank GOD!  Already started on the bottom yesterday afternoon. Gonna need lots more Tamiya 18MM tape! This thing is gonna look like a checkerboard of different greys eventually.  Moving on! 

 

[electric indigo]

@derex3592 good luck with the final approach!

Strange bird on my workbench:

The free pose assembly is wrecking my nerves...

[arbit]

Mechtech, Nice use of the discount bin. I took a look at what the actual kit looks like. Looking forward to see what you do with it.

Derex, Looks like you have a lot of masking and panel painting ahead. But the trouble will be worth it.

electric indigo, I need to do an FSS resin kit one day, just don't have the confidence yet to deal with a detailed resin kit. Although I've enjoyed some of the simpler resin kits I've done. 

[David Hingtgen]

Tamiya AS-16 is a great color, I feel that the Tamiya AS line has several colors that are the only examples that are the only "truly correct" paints out there, for FS matches.  

Most notably, Insignia White.  Like 19 out of 20 "Insignia White" paints are totally wrong----they're just pure bright white with a different name slapped on.  But Tamiya AS-20?  THAT is the true color of Insignia White----a very very pale blue-grey.  (especially great for "white" Star Wars stuff)

[electric indigo]

16 hours ago, arbit said:

electric indigo, I need to do an FSS resin kit one day, just don't have the confidence yet to deal with a detailed resin kit. Although I've enjoyed some of the simpler resin kits I've done. 

The more prominent designs have IP kit options nowadays, that would be a good start.

Let me know if you're eyeing a specific resin MH kit.

[MechTech]

Thanks Arbit!

@derex3592 That's what I would do! Yeah, forget airbrushing that much real estate! It looks good!

I LOVE Tamiya's spray paints. I was going to get Krylon "sand" to paint my mecha, but maybe I should look at Tamiya.

@electric indigo I loved the FSS stories designs. It will be cool to see how this turns out. - MT

[derex3592]

@Mechtech - DEFINITELY go Tamiya for spray paint for models. They have a couple of great sandy colors.  Never go Krylon IMHO.  I love the Rust-O-Leumm spray paints, but it lays down thick and takes a long time to cure. For bases or light blocking it's great though. 

[arbit]

2 hours ago, electric indigo said:

The more prominent designs have IP kit options nowadays, that would be a good start.

Let me know if you're eyeing a specific resin MH kit.

Thanks. Will do.

I actually have the Wave LED Mirage and KOG kits. But they lack so much detail that I will probably never build them, especially when I see how cool the big resin ones are! 

[arbit]

24 minutes ago, MechTech said:

I LOVE Tamiya's spray paints. I was going to get Krylon "sand" to paint my mecha, but maybe I should look at Tamiya.

Tamiya is definitely higher grit, but I got these examples of a kit I did with Krylon years back. It does go on a bit thick, but if you are careful, it is not always bad. But I really don't have good success with their gloss or primer (except for bases as others said).

[arbit]

I decided to detail-up my first airlock and added an interior spotlight. These are before and after pics. Lesson is: Sci Fi needs greeblies!

[electric indigo]

3 hours ago, arbit said:

I actually have the Wave LED Mirage and KOG kits. But they lack so much detail that I will probably never build them, especially when I see how cool the big resin ones are! 

The old Wave kits were pretty terrible. Their newer 1/144 IP kits are ok. Meanwhile, Volks itself has pushed the IP envelope to resin kit standards in terms of sculpt & detail. And their KOG AT will come in Full Bling Mode.

Edited May 4, 2021 by electric indigo

[David Hingtgen]

A good "cheap" spray paint is the the Krylon "chalky" line.  Ignore the name, it just means "nicely matte" in my experience, there is no additive/special effect like many other sub-lines have.  They have several nice greys that are good for either primer or base coat.  

I'll vouch for "misty grey" and "paver grey".   (cool and warm, respectively).    IMHO misty grey is a very good SW Imperial grey, with paver grey a good Rebel Alliance color. 

[joscasle]

I put aside the 1-48 YF-19, a lot of problems with paint :(, so I started a new project, 1/48 VF-1A Super Cannon Fodder TV version.

Here the pics.

 

Color test for the "main" color

Color test for the fast packs TV (Love it, GabeQ's mix)

Edited May 5, 2021 by joscasle

[arbit]

15 minutes ago, joscasle said:

Color test for the fast packs TV (Love it, GabeQ's mix)

What are the ratios? Would that be the same mix for the TV SDF-1?

[joscasle]

15 minutes ago, arbit said:

What are the ratios? Would that be the same mix for the TV SDF-1?

Gabe's mix

[pengbuzz]

UPDATE: Got the stand built for the 1/537 Refit-

The stand is a solid metal rod that runs from the bottom of the base (wooden board), all the way to the upper inside of the impulse crystal on the saucer. The rod is fixed in place on the board with a generous helping of Plastic Welder, covered with a styrene tube to disguise it as well as reinforce the connection.

Also too the opportunity to make the stand into a "display" (just need some acetate for the "screen":

The stand is strong enough that I can safely set a full Pepsi can on the saucer, bump the table, and the model will not wobble whatsoever. That will make sure no other incidents happen to it.

I'll try to get better pics a little later; right now, the light is crummy and I need a better backdrop! lol

With that, the 1/537 is finished; this iteration began in 2011 (it was a smoothie, which is why I didn't want to make it into anything else!), and it represents the culmination of 40 years of attempts to build this particular model (1/537 AMT).

Thanks for watching folks!

Edited May 5, 2021 by pengbuzz

[peter]

On 4/30/2021 at 3:54 PM, pengbuzz said:

You may want to replace those pegs with either a stronger styrene or possibly ABS.

@Chronocidal

@sketchley

@MechTech

I'll definitely reinforce the next Battroid I build.  MT, your mech looks beefy by the way.....I'll have to refer to your posts about joints when I get going again.

 

[peter]

On 5/4/2021 at 12:07 PM, arbit said:

I decided to detail-up my first airlock and added an interior spotlight. These are before and after pics. Lesson is: Sci Fi needs greeblies!

Than is awesome.....love the figs too!

I can't do greeblies to save my life....no imagination

 

[joscasle]

1/48 VF-1A  CANNON FODDER Continue

 

 

 

[Thom]

@pengbuzz You wrapped it up all pretty-like! That base looks great, and I'm glad that it is so stable.

@joscasle Wow, that /48 Valk is a large bird. Quite the good canvas for a good paint job.

[peter]

@derex3592 I've heard the Galileo shuttle is a lot of work, I can't imagine a Runabout

@electric indigo I'm going to have to try resin one day.  I have a few of those resin kits that the "Super-poseables" were cloned from, maybe I should try one of those.

 

 

[peter]

6 hours ago, pengbuzz said:

UPDATE: Got the stand built for the 1/537 Refit-

The stand is a solid metal rod that runs from the bottom of the base (wooden board), all the way to the upper inside of the impulse crystal on the saucer. The rod is fixed in place on the board with a generous helping of Plastic Welder, covered with a styrene tube to disguise it as well as reinforce the connection.

Also too the opportunity to make the stand into a "display" (just need some acetate for the "screen":

The stand is strong enough that I can safely set a full Pepsi can on the saucer, bump the table, and the model will not wobble whatsoever. That will make sure no other incidents happen to it.

I'll try to get better pics a little later; right now, the light is crummy and I need a better backdrop! lol

With that, the 1/537 is finished; this iteration began in 2011 (it was a smoothie, which is why I didn't want to make it into anything else!), and it represents the culmination of 40 years of attempts to build this particular model (1/537 AMT).

Thanks for watching folks!

Dude, that stand is awesome. 

 

Sorry, but I may steal your idea..

My Refit is sitting on the original AMT stand, which feels a bit sketchy.... And my auto destruct is just stuck on a plain wood board. 

I really like your display idea with a top view schematic of the ship. 

[peter]

6 hours ago, joscasle said:

Gabe's mix

If anyone is curious for a rattle can color for DYRL parts, I used this last summer:

I found it looked pretty close....but I may be a bit color blind, who knows. 

I thought it looked somewhere in between the DX and Yamato super/strike parts. 

 

[MechTech]

@arbit Thanks, Arbit! I like Krylon's stuff too. Even if the coat is a little thick, that's OK; I'm basically painting a "tank" model - with two feet. Your detail work looks great! Details are what makes it look real.

@joscasle Great job on the paint. I love the color mixture.

@pengbuzz That stand looks looks AWESOME! I like how you used the schematic on the base too!

@electric indigo Mr. T has nothing on that gold FSS kit! - MT

[peter]

1 hour ago, joscasle said:

1/48 VF-1A  CANNON FODDER Continue

 

 

Keep telling myself to get off my butt and start my 1/48, but it might be a while until I contribute to this thread. 

I have a decrepit 35 year old fence than needs rebuilding. 

I've Band-Aid Ed this thing long enough. 

Work so far.  Price of materials is absolutely stupid right now.  A 1x2 strip costs as much as a 2x4 did last year..... Basically, prices of wood have tripled.

Between my day job, my part time job, and the kids, I might have to just build models in the middle of the night, Hahaha! 

 

[peter]

Has anyone here built the Bandai Variable 1/72 that goes with this Strike Parts set? 

I had the kit, but it looked a bit messy and I heard it fell apart easily so I flipped it, but I'm thinking about kit-bashing it into maybe one of my older Bandai kits..... Maybe the fixed Battroid.... Or if I'm feeling super ambitions, maybe one of my older Bandai Variable kits..... 

[peter]

Why am I punishing myself..... Haven't I been saying I wanted to do something straight forward and out of the box?  Lol! 

Was thinking about ham-fisting the armor onto one of these two older kits that I didn't want to build in the first place, lol! 

[pengbuzz]

23 hours ago, peter said:

Dude, that stand is awesome. 

 

Sorry, but I may steal your idea..

My Refit is sitting on the original AMT stand, which feels a bit sketchy.... And my auto destruct is just stuck on a plain wood board. 

I really like your display idea with a top view schematic of the ship. 

Please, by all means! That original stand is nobody's friend, and it's hella weak! o.o

And admittedly, I got the stand idea from you when you mounted the E-A on that board! So, let me return the favor!

Here is the graphic I used, in case you need it; I also did the "A" version in case you need it for the other one:

Edited May 6, 2021 by pengbuzz

[electric indigo]

It's growing