peter Posted July 6, 2020 Share Posted July 6, 2020 (edited) Bandai instructions, paint and decal guide: What I ended up with: Not a bad kit for ¥800, wasn't too horrible to build. Would I buy another one? Probably not, lol! Edited July 6, 2020 by peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MechTech Posted July 6, 2020 Share Posted July 6, 2020 That looks AWESOME Peter for an old Bandai kit! Personally, I have missillitis. So the more missiles the better! You have a squadron now too! Thanks for the shot of your M-4. I had to use the M-16 in the dessert. Now I know the difference. The M-4 has "Pew" stamped on the selector switch vs Semi and Auto. - MT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter Posted July 6, 2020 Share Posted July 6, 2020 (edited) 9 hours ago, MechTech said: That looks AWESOME Peter for an old Bandai kit! Personally, I have missillitis. So the more missiles the better! You have a squadron now too! Thanks for the shot of your M-4. I had to use the M-16 in the dessert. Now I know the difference. The M-4 has "Pew" stamped on the selector switch vs Semi and Auto. - MT Lol, thanks i'm just grateful it didn't turn out like the Macross models I built when I was ten: The missiles do spruce up that old kit quite a bit I think. Lol, the pic of M4(m4gery) is one of my personal rifles, not an issued one. If I painted that on o e of our issued rifle (which actually has the fun switch), I'd never hear the end of it from my chain of command. Our rifles are black and green and they stay that way unless you're with the secret squirrels. I'm a bit of a gun nut so when I'm not obsessing over Macross, guns are usually on my work bench. I used to be heavy into clone building but that is a really expensive hobby and I have to get out of it. My personal clone of my work rifle on the left, and a clone of the US M16 on the right. Edited July 7, 2020 by peter Spelling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter Posted July 6, 2020 Share Posted July 6, 2020 For safety nuts, the mags were empty, chamber empty, triple checked before the photo....for those that don't know, selector can't go into Safe unless it's racked, hence why the selector is set to rock and roll. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arbit Posted July 6, 2020 Share Posted July 6, 2020 29 minutes ago, peter said: i'm just grateful it didn't turn out like the Macross models I built when I was ten And those might be the best builds of all. Don't ever throw them away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter Posted July 6, 2020 Share Posted July 6, 2020 Some of the kits I made when I was ten A couple of small (don't remember the scale) beam cannons next to my 1/72 Hasegawa Hasegawa 1/72 on top of the glue, Arii 1/100 to the right of it. Hasegawa gunpod on the left, not sure which scale on the right. Mangled Bandai 1/72 variable from when I was ten up top, recent Hasegawa below. A pair of 1/72 heads, recent one on the left, ten year old me on the right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dobber Posted July 6, 2020 Share Posted July 6, 2020 Been doing lots of builds lately. Almost finished 2 Bandai X-Wings (Reds 2 and 6) and just started the new R2 1/1000 Discover Enterprise. Doing all the paneling on the Enterprise with artist pencils by hand. the base coat is MM acrylic Aluminum. EVERYTHING else is pencil work. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derex3592 Posted July 6, 2020 Share Posted July 6, 2020 WHAT???!!! Madman! That's really cool! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MechTech Posted July 6, 2020 Share Posted July 6, 2020 Peter - Thanks for sharing your old models. I don't even have a lot of mine anymore. I believe those are the 1/72, 1/100 and 1/170 scale kits. I'l have to post some of my earlier ones too. My M-16 in Afghanistan was named Frankenstein. Everything was a different color! It looked Frankensteined! Dobber - Derex is just saying what we're all thinking. You are crazy! It looks good though. You should put a hidden message in the paneling. - MT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chronocidal Posted July 6, 2020 Share Posted July 6, 2020 That is unbelievably awesome looking, honestly, and I'm not sure which is even more work, that method, or the decals. I actually really like the Discoprise design, but the nonsense scale pisses me off to no end. That ship is the same size as the old 1960s AMT Enterprise kit, but they expect you to believe it's the same scale as the 1/1000 TOS and TMP Refit? Yeah, that's some potent BS there. The deck windows even line up with the TOS layout. The sad part is, I actually really -want- a Discoprise in that same size, about a foot long, because I want something that goes well with my other kits. It's a nice ship design, and fits really nicely as a natural progression between the TOS and TMP designs (ignoring for a moment that it's supposed to come before TOS.. ). The 1/2500 kit is just stupidly tiny, and 1/1000 is 18"... I want something a foot long... and I would absolutely paint it up in the TOS colors, just because. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dobber Posted July 7, 2020 Share Posted July 7, 2020 Thanks guys. I really REALLY love the design too. It’s a perfect update of the classic ship that, as chronocidal said, really works well as a bridge to the Refit (scale not withstanding) Personally, it’s far more believable that this design would become the Refit than the original. I ordered a second kit that want to paint up in more traditional colors...either TOS or closer to the Refit era. I’d really like some aftermarket parts like new engines and maybe a torpedo housing to go with it. It’s a perfect sized kit for me, again not considering scale, as it’s not as big as the old Ertl Refit kit or as small as the classic ships in 1/1000 kits...which are a descent size too. Just need some options. New ship names and registries would be nice too. i did some more work on her this eve, but the light is not great for such detail work and overhead light causes too much glare. I have a quarter of the saucers underside left to do now and the the edges. That should be finished tomorrow, then on to the upper surface. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thom Posted July 7, 2020 Share Posted July 7, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, Chronocidal said: That is unbelievably awesome looking, honestly, and I'm not sure which is even more work, that method, or the decals. I actually really like the Discoprise design, but the nonsense scale pisses me off to no end. That ship is the same size as the old 1960s AMT Enterprise kit, but they expect you to believe it's the same scale as the 1/1000 TOS and TMP Refit? Yeah, that's some potent BS there. The deck windows even line up with the TOS layout. The sad part is, I actually really -want- a Discoprise in that same size, about a foot long, because I want something that goes well with my other kits. It's a nice ship design, and fits really nicely as a natural progression between the TOS and TMP designs (ignoring for a moment that it's supposed to come before TOS.. ). The 1/2500 kit is just stupidly tiny, and 1/1000 is 18"... I want something a foot long... and I would absolutely paint it up in the TOS colors, just because. I'm right with you there on all counts! It's too huge for the previous 1/1000 fleet and too small to fit the AMT 1/500-ish of the Refit/Reliant. I mean, they could start making new molds to fit the 'new' 1/1000 and make new Refits and Reliants and Excelsior and... Barring that though, the only options I can think of to get a 12 inch Discoprise is to either get the Eaglemoss XL (extra large) Enterprise or contact Madman Shipyards. He sells 3D prints of the Discoprise that fits the earlier /1000 scale. http://www.madshipyard.com/ Or, if you have a friend with a 3D or resin printer... Edited July 7, 2020 by Thom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter Posted July 7, 2020 Share Posted July 7, 2020 (edited) Thinking about whether to build it straight out of the box or gut it and wrap the skin around a GFrame. Actually, I also bought a Gundam kit with the idea of gutting it for the ball joints and stuff, but one look at the parts and I knew I was in over my head. I might just build the thing box stock and use the hands from the Gundam. I can't stand the balloon hands on a Strike Valkyrie, lol! Edited July 7, 2020 by peter Edited for spelling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter Posted July 7, 2020 Share Posted July 7, 2020 7 hours ago, Dobber said: Been doing lots of builds lately. Almost finished 2 Bandai X-Wings (Reds 2 and 6) and just started the new R2 1/1000 Discover Enterprise. Doing all the paneling on the Enterprise with artist pencils by hand. the base coat is MM acrylic Aluminum. EVERYTHING else is pencil work. Chris Pencil? A pencil can do that??!? John Wick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chronocidal Posted July 7, 2020 Share Posted July 7, 2020 2 hours ago, Thom said: I'm right with you there on all counts! It's too huge for the previous 1/1000 fleet and too small to fit the AMT 1/500-ish of the Refit/Reliant. I mean, they could start making new molds to fit the 'new' 1/1000 and make new Refits and Reliants and Excelsior and... Barring that though, the only options I can think of to get a 12 inch Discoprise is to either get the Eaglemoss XL (extra large) Enterprise or contact Madman Shipyards. He sells 3D prints of the Discoprise that fits the earlier /1000 scale. http://www.madshipyard.com/ Or, if you have a friend with a 3D or resin printer... I -do- actually have a printer.. but hmm... not sure I want to do the prep work on getting a print sanded and painted either. I might eventually shell out for the new kit, but the prices of the new ones are turning me off very hard right now. I can deal with $25 or so for the 1/1000 TOS kit, or $30-something for the old AMT 18" kit, but $70 for the new 1/1000 discoprise? Though, by comparison, the $30 for the microscopic 1/2500 makes that look almost reasonable. And that's if you don't shell out another who knows how much for the lighting kit they make now (if it's even available). The prices for these are climbing hard, and fast, and I'm having to pick and choose which companies to support. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dobber Posted July 7, 2020 Share Posted July 7, 2020 Bottom Primary hull paneling done. Moving on to the upper surface. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MechTech Posted July 7, 2020 Share Posted July 7, 2020 Pencils - They're just not for paper and carpenters anymore! That looks great! - MT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dobber Posted July 7, 2020 Share Posted July 7, 2020 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thom Posted July 8, 2020 Share Posted July 8, 2020 20 hours ago, Chronocidal said: I -do- actually have a printer.. but hmm... not sure I want to do the prep work on getting a print sanded and painted either. I might eventually shell out for the new kit, but the prices of the new ones are turning me off very hard right now. I can deal with $25 or so for the 1/1000 TOS kit, or $30-something for the old AMT 18" kit, but $70 for the new 1/1000 discoprise? Though, by comparison, the $30 for the microscopic 1/2500 makes that look almost reasonable. And that's if you don't shell out another who knows how much for the lighting kit they make now (if it's even available). The prices for these are climbing hard, and fast, and I'm having to pick and choose which companies to support. Yeah, the Madman one is full of striations. It'll take a lot to prime and sand, fill and prime and sand, and then maybe sand and fill and prime. Though I do hear that Badger 3D Primer does a good job... For the new kit, Starship Modeler Store still has a few at $50 before S/H. They do deliver fast though. The Eagelmoss XL Enterprise is over $70. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chronocidal Posted July 8, 2020 Share Posted July 8, 2020 That's a bit more reasonable at least, but sadly doesn't do anything to fix the scale problem. I'm trying to keep my sizes down to kits that can be stored inside their boxes while I sort out display space. So far, that's made all of the Bandai Star Wars kits and most of the Polar Lights 1/1000 kits prime candidates to work on smaller assemblies and painting. Once I get the sub-assemblies worked out, I'll probably shift gears and start painting rebel pilots and A, B, X, and Y wing cockpits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pengbuzz Posted July 8, 2020 Share Posted July 8, 2020 On 7/6/2020 at 1:22 PM, peter said: Some of the kits I made when I was ten A couple of small (don't remember the scale) beam cannons next to my 1/72 Hasegawa Hasegawa 1/72 on top of the glue, Arii 1/100 to the right of it. Hasegawa gunpod on the left, not sure which scale on the right. Mangled Bandai 1/72 variable from when I was ten up top, recent Hasegawa below. A pair of 1/72 heads, recent one on the left, ten year old me on the right. You can always redo and resurrect your old ones: easy off oven cleaner or simple green will remove paint without damaging the plastic, while some good old fashioned rebuilding and polishing (plus some printed decals) can elevate your prior projects to an all-new level! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter Posted July 8, 2020 Share Posted July 8, 2020 10 hours ago, pengbuzz said: You can always redo and resurrect your old ones: easy off oven cleaner or simple green will remove paint without damaging the plastic, while some good old fashioned rebuilding and polishing (plus some printed decals) can elevate your prior projects to an all-new level! Haha, I might try it one day. For now, my 5 yr old likes to play with them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter Posted July 8, 2020 Share Posted July 8, 2020 I decided to bin the idea of wrapping the skin of the 1/100 around a Gundam GFrame. I have neither the skill nor the patience to accomplish this, but I did try to source some non-balloon hands for the DYRL look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter Posted July 8, 2020 Share Posted July 8, 2020 This kit is masking hell. For someone like me who hates masking, this kit involves a lot of it. $28hkd for this kit was cheap......for a reason I guess, lol! To be fair though, it's an old kit I bought more than 20 yrs ago and I'm finally getting around to it. I have three more and if this one doesn't turn into a total $hitshoe, I might attempt to build one in Hikaru red. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter Posted July 8, 2020 Share Posted July 8, 2020 (edited) Although I gave up in the idea of building this around a flexible Gundam skeleton, I'm still going to skip the balloon hands. To the pros here, this must look completely butchered, hahababaha Edited July 8, 2020 by peter Edited for spelling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MechTech Posted July 8, 2020 Share Posted July 8, 2020 Dobber - Pencils! That's funny. I forgot about that. Thom - I'm not familiar with the kit, but if it's 3D printed (vs resin casting), you can take down the bias lines with a good fogging of acetone. Gonna need a big bottle though Peter - That's cool that your "Zentraedi" are having fun with your models. It's not called butchering, it's called modifying. I won't tell anyone you put Gundam hands on a Macross model if you don't. If it does sudden;y burst into flames though, you'll know why. I actually have some of the aftermarket hands to do the same thing on a couple of models myself. - MT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter Posted July 8, 2020 Share Posted July 8, 2020 Haha, it feels like it's on the verge of falling apart actually. This thing isn't very poseable, so it may as well be just a static statue. Don't see many examples of this kit built, not very popular I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter Posted July 8, 2020 Share Posted July 8, 2020 Like my Hasegawa kits, I didn't go with the anime correct bright white. I had some leftover Tamiya Light Gray (IJN) so I sprayed it on this kit. As a color and decal reference, I used Hasegawa and Yamato as a guide. The decals that came with this kit: A lot of the warning decals appeared too big or cartoony for this scale so I didn't use many. Instead, I borrow e heavily on leftover decals from my Hasegawa builds.  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter Posted July 8, 2020 Share Posted July 8, 2020 The VF decal seems to have gone out of fashion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thom Posted July 9, 2020 Share Posted July 9, 2020 4 hours ago, MechTech said: ... Thom - I'm not familiar with the kit, but if it's 3D printed (vs resin casting), you can take down the bias lines with a good fogging of acetone. Gonna need a big bottle though ... - MT Thank you, I had not known of that technique! That build may not be to far off after all! 7 hours ago, peter said: Although I gave up in the idea of building this around a flexible Gundam skeleton, I'm still going to skip the balloon hands. To the pros here, this must look completely butchered, hahababaha A good rule of thumb is that it is only 'butchered' if it is seen on the outside! Those hands will look good too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pengbuzz Posted July 9, 2020 Share Posted July 9, 2020 7 hours ago, peter said: Although I gave up in the idea of building this around a flexible Gundam skeleton, I'm still going to skip the balloon hands. To the pros here, this must look completely butchered, hahababaha If you want to see "butchered", check this build out! lol : Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter Posted July 9, 2020 Share Posted July 9, 2020 1 hour ago, pengbuzz said: If you want to see "butchered", check this build out! lol : That.....is ....amazing, wow! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter Posted July 9, 2020 Share Posted July 9, 2020 I'd love to be able to build the side of the ARMD carrier to launch these guys properly. Sadly, I possess neither the skill, ability or patience, hahahaha! Besides, these guys aren't built very well, the slightest breath they fall apart, hahahaha! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pengbuzz Posted July 9, 2020 Share Posted July 9, 2020 18 hours ago, peter said: I'd love to be able to build the side of the ARMD carrier to launch these guys properly. Sadly, I possess neither the skill, ability or patience, hahahaha! Besides, these guys aren't built very well, the slightest breath they fall apart, hahahaha! Hey...all you need to do is just detail the stand with some panels and paint it in varying shades of gunmetal/ gray. They could be skimming the surface of an ARMD on their way to a sortie. Just a few square pieces of plastic and some paint and you'd be good to go! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dobber Posted July 9, 2020 Share Posted July 9, 2020 Almost done with the upper saucer surface. Here’s a video showing how it catches and reacts to light at different angles. IMG_1922.MOV Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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