Whats Lying on your Workbench MK IV

[derex3592]

We're back to Star Wars. Enough Trek... LOL... Let's see if we can properly burn our fingers this weekend! 

[MechTech]

Derex - You gonna add a wave motion gun to that!? I got a drill! Seriously though, I think I somehow got an exacto knife or something to "mod" my New Jersey.

Arbit - That's cool. I think I did the same. I just wasn't that good at drawing. I sucked! Now it's part of my job - MT

[pengbuzz]

You know, that would be interesting... a US version of the Yamato (Missouri or New Jersey). For the "Murican flavor", it shoots cans of Budweiser

[Dobber]

6 hours ago, pengbuzz said:

You know, that would be interesting... a US version of the Yamato (Missouri or New Jersey). For the "Murican flavor", it shoots cans of Budweiser

Lol! Why not? Macross already did it in DYRL!

 

Chris

[NZEOD]

Scratching, scuffing, weathering and generally making a mess on the Urban Camo Phalanx Destroid while I wait for the paint to fail to dry in the rain storm here on The Forest Camo Defender Destroid.

[derex3592]

In the words of Indiana Jones.. "I'm making this up as I go along "... working on the engine LED strip today using some of the blue LED strip that I had for my big 1400 scale Enterprise D engines years ago... Built a wall / divider out of a sheet of styrene to attach the blue strip to. Also soldering 3 additional sets of 3 LEDS for all 3 points of the triangle as the two main strips in the hull weren't quite lighting up the windows in the 3 corners... 

[wm cheng]

I hear ya @NZEOD its painful to weather over a flawless paintjob sometimes.  Even though I love the painting/weathering/decaling stage, I'm sometimes almost afraid to advance to the next stage for fear of wrecking the previous stage.

 

Envy your electronic lighting skills @derex3592!!!  Any lighting I've done its been a "dummy" kit that all I have to do is put in batteries.  Are you going to gel those LEDs so they appear warm?

Edited May 24, 2020 by wm cheng

[MechTech]

That's right, 'Murica's got the "King of Beers!"  If you get your enemies drunk, you don't have to blow them away!

NZEOD - Looking good!  Weather can be a drag sometimes, but it looks like your working through it.

Derex - Cool with the LEDs. I think it will look great when done! - MT

[pengbuzz]

Well, my Destroid Defender came in today:

I only made a couple of mods so far; removing the strip of plastic between the arm guns, and backing the searchlights with foil tape:

It scales nicely with my 1/72 VF-1J. I had been thinking of shortening the height, but I may just leave that alone:

Once I'm done, it will go into the diorama with one of my VF-1's, while the other goes onto a different diorama:

(not exactly the one included in the Robotech/ Macross Factory set, but I will hopefully get one of those at some point).

Mods to be performed: washing, rebuild of radar antenna and ammo chute covers, drilling out of barrel ends, repainting and detailing, accurate decals.

Possible mods: pivoting hip joints, articulated knee joints, opening pilot hatch, fuzzy dice.

 

Stay tuned folks...

[pengbuzz]

2 minutes ago, MechTech said:

That's right, 'Murica's got the "King of Beers!"  If you get your enemies drunk, you don't have to blow them away!

NZEOD - Looking good!  Weather can be a drag sometimes, but it looks like your working through it.

Derex - Cool with the LEDs. I think it will look great when done! - MT

Hey, it worked for Hikaru when he went after Bodolza in his fortress!!!

[NZEOD]

30 minutes ago, MechTech said:

NZEOD - Looking good!  Weather can be a drag sometimes, but it looks like your working through it.

Naa I was out riding in the rain on the MX bike in between. Hot showers for the win! Added extra Lacquer thinners to the acrylics to assist it drying, then went back to playing Roguetech in between it all.

[NZEOD]

1 hour ago, wm cheng said:

I hear ya @NZEOD its painful to weather over a flawless paintjob sometimes.  Even though I love the painting/weathering/decaling stage, I'm sometimes almost afraid to advance to the next stage for fear of wrecking the previous stage.

I quite enjoy destroying it! 

Edited May 24, 2020 by NZEOD

[derex3592]

1 hour ago, wm cheng said:

Envy your electronic lighting skills @derex3592!!!  Any lighting I've done its been a "dummy" kit that all I have to do is put in batteries.  Are you going to gel those LEDs so they appear warm?

Thanks @wm cheng.  Actually, I picked the cool white LED's for the interior window lights on purpose so I wouldn't have to gel them. I went back and forth and made the decision that while most space ships (Star Trek/etc...)would look good with warm white interior  lights, I figure an ISD of the Empire would be built with cold white light on the inside. Very industrial feel.  Kind of like the fluorescent lights my grandparents had in their kitchen!  LOL.  

I would like to find a spray of some sort that I could hit the strips with to kind of diffuse the lights a bit, I think I saw someone on YouTube do with a frosted spray can but I can't remember for sure.  Most builds I see you can kind of see the "hotspots" of the LED's as you look around the model once it's finished, it may be unavoidable due to the size of the windows, not sure. I'm gonna test the theory. 

I think the biggest issue I will have is light leaks on this build. I'm not sure how anyone seals something like this perfectly.  If you have the kit, you know what I mean, You HAVE to do all your putty work sealing leaks before you stick everything together, however, that's sort of not really 100% possible the way Bandai designed it.  I purchased a cheap set of tiny syringes off Amazon to try and run super fine lines of putty on the outside of the model where light is going to come through...problem is though..all the greeblies on the outside of the hull...

Stay tuned! 

Edited May 24, 2020 by derex3592

[wm cheng]

What about putting a layer of trace paper, mylar (drafting film) or parchment paper in front of the LEDs to diffuse the lights? 

I had to get myself the Limited Edition so it had all the lighting included.  I was thinking of using the clear pieces so I can paint them and pinvise more smaller holes just scratching the paint to give me more windows that are lit.  It's amazing Bandai managed to mold such tiny holes into those pieces, but I feel its still missing about 1/3-1/2 more windows than the filming model (which of course is much bigger!).

Edited May 25, 2020 by wm cheng

[NZEOD]

try signwriting frosted film, used on bathroom windows

Probably pick up a sample free from a 3M or Avery Dennison

https://graphics.averydennison.eu/en/home/graphics-products/screen-and-cut-materials/window-graphics/dusted-and-crystal-glass-window-films.html

https://www.3mnz.co.nz/3M/en_NZ/company-nz/all-3m-products/~/All-3M-Products/Architecture-Construction/Glass-Finishes/Design-Construction/?N=5002385+8709317+8710647+8710784+8711017+3294800572&rt=r3

Just remember you need a strip of ali behind those LEDs as a heat sink... they generate a bit of heat. Consider dropping the powersupply voltage down from 12V to 11V - 10V to reduce heat and extend their usable life. Otherwise your styrene model will deform from the excess heat. The main reason these strips havent superceded a single LED with Fibre Optic strands is due to the heat issue. Tried it myself and failed.

 

Edited May 25, 2020 by NZEOD

[arbit]

Derex,

Some other points to add to the good advice from WM Cheng and NZEOD.

I haven't worked on this model, but I don't putty the exterior as you mentioned. For light blocking edges, you can often use black construction paper. I don't use aluminum foil because it conducts electricity. Painting the insides black will also help a great deal. I also paint the backs and sides of the LEDs, and I paint the fiber optic strands as well (except the tips), usually with polyurethane black primer.

Basically black paint everything on the inside, and keep blocking until you get the result.

A light box is different, in which case you black the outside, and keep the inside white to reflect around the space. This can spread 1x light source to multiple pinholes, such as the cockpit and gunner-room images below.

If you intend 1x led to light multiple holes and hide the hot spots, then you definitely need to diffuse the light as you said. Try white paper, tracing paper, and stuff like that. You can also sand down clear parts to diffuse light. I add my own piece of clear stryrene sanded down between the light source if there is no clear part. A blob of Epoxy can also diffuse light for you.

As you said, painting the leds will also have an effect, but you need to test different shades and see what you like. You can always wipe it off with alcohol if it is not right. But I always wait till everything is dry before testing the light.

And if the lights are too powerful, you might want to bring them way down to a minimum to get desired result. I use 3-5v strips.

Here are some examples of light boxes and light blocking form my Falcon.

Edited May 25, 2020 by arbit

[derex3592]

8 hours ago, NZEOD said:

try signwriting frosted film, used on bathroom windows

Probably pick up a sample free from a 3M or Avery Dennison

https://graphics.averydennison.eu/en/home/graphics-products/screen-and-cut-materials/window-graphics/dusted-and-crystal-glass-window-films.html

https://www.3mnz.co.nz/3M/en_NZ/company-nz/all-3m-products/~/All-3M-Products/Architecture-Construction/Glass-Finishes/Design-Construction/?N=5002385+8709317+8710647+8710784+8711017+3294800572&rt=r3

Just remember you need a strip of ali behind those LEDs as a heat sink... they generate a bit of heat. Consider dropping the powersupply voltage down from 12V to 11V - 10V to reduce heat and extend their usable life. Otherwise your styrene model will deform from the excess heat. The main reason these strips havent superceded a single LED with Fibre Optic strands is due to the heat issue. Tried it myself and failed.

 

Thanks for the tips guys, I'm using a rotary dimmer, so I'm only running everything less than half full intensity. 

Edited May 25, 2020 by derex3592

[David Hingtgen]

Quick poll/opinion: What's the best paint for hand-brushing basic black and silver?    No matter what you're modeling, there's going to be "small black bits" and "small silver bits" that you're going to paint by hand.   I honestly really liked Pollyscale (best silver ever!!!) but that's long-gone.  Not real fond of Tamiya.  Hate Vallejo in my experience.  (thick, and can't directly brush out of a bottle...)  

[wm cheng]

I use Tamiya black so I can't suggest anything else (nothing beats it for ease of clean up, dunk the brush in a bit of Windex and you're good to go!).  I am starting to move over to Mr. Color since they match FS military colours and Tamiya does not - also they are in semi-gloss.  They are lacquers so its harder to clean up though.

 

However I've just discovered Motolow Liquid Chrome Markers, nothing gives a true chrome/silver like it.  I used to dab a bunch of Tamiya Silver Marker into a small dish and use a paint brush to dip in it, I use lacquer thinner to thin it if it starts to dry out.  But this Motolow stuff looks more amazing and they come in a 1mm marker so some small stuff can just use the marker tip instead of cleaning a brush.  The only thing is it takes a long time to dry and you can't touch it until its dry or you'll ruin the mirror finish.  No bottle silver paint comes close to these markers (maybe Alclad but its only airbrush consistency).

[David Hingtgen]

Yes, Molotow is a whole 'nother level for chrome, but I reserve it for truly shiny bits/special stuff.  Just "a nice smooth regular silver that's neither glittery nor clumps" is what I'm really looking for right now. 

PS----I didn't specify, but I'm pretty much only looking for acrylics.  I just can't deal with enamels etc 95% of the time.  

[NZEOD]

Molotow for chrome and citadel airbrush acrylics for brushing other colours. 

[David Hingtgen]

Hmmn---Citadel seems to change their formula so often, each batch is like a whole new brand of paint.  I've never bought any of their airbrush colors though, and certainly never hand-brushed them.  (Ironically, that seems to work better for Vallejo---their regular colors are so thick, that the 'pre-thinned' "model air" colors are still more like hand-brush consistency, than airbrush consistency---but I've only had like 2 colors to experiment with that way)  

[Vifam7]

3 hours ago, David Hingtgen said:

Quick poll/opinion: What's the best paint for hand-brushing basic black and silver?    No matter what you're modeling, there's going to be "small black bits" and "small silver bits" that you're going to paint by hand.   I honestly really liked Pollyscale (best silver ever!!!) but that's long-gone.  Not real fond of Tamiya.  Hate Vallejo in my experience.  (thick, and can't directly brush out of a bottle...)  

I've always used Humbrol's enamel for flat black.

Model Master enamel for silver (though this is going bye-bye as well).

[NZEOD]

3 hours ago, David Hingtgen said:

Hmmn---Citadel seems to change their formula so often, each batch is like a whole new brand of paint.  I've never bought any of their airbrush colors though, and certainly never hand-brushed them.  (Ironically, that seems to work better for Vallejo---their regular colors are so thick, that the 'pre-thinned' "model air" colors are still more like hand-brush consistency, than airbrush consistency---but I've only had like 2 colors to experiment with that way)  

I discovered brushing it on the splinter cam on my Tau firewarriors and drones as they were too small to mask and airbrush 50 of them. Goes on very smooth and usually 2 layers is enough so its become my GO TO for small brush jobs on Macross stuff as well.

For chrome its still the Molotow pen decanted into a jar.

Edited May 25, 2020 by NZEOD

[Gabe Q]

5 hours ago, wm cheng said:

I use Tamiya black so I can't suggest anything else (nothing beats it for ease of clean up, dunk the brush in a bit of Windex and you're good to go!).  I am starting to move over to Mr. Color since they match FS military colours and Tamiya does not - also they are in semi-gloss.  They are lacquers so its harder to clean up though.

 

However I've just discovered Motolow Liquid Chrome Markers, nothing gives a true chrome/silver like it.  I used to dab a bunch of Tamiya Silver Marker into a small dish and use a paint brush to dip in it, I use lacquer thinner to thin it if it starts to dry out.  But this Motolow stuff looks more amazing and they come in a 1mm marker so some small stuff can just use the marker tip instead of cleaning a brush.  The only thing is it takes a long time to dry and you can't touch it until its dry or you'll ruin the mirror finish.  No bottle silver paint comes close to these markers (maybe Alclad but its only airbrush consistency).

I looked into it and it seems you can buy just the refill ink and airbrush it on. I'm super curious about it now. From the Google:

The liquid chrome is the result of a long-term development of the also well-known BURNER™ ink from MOLOTOW™. LIQUID CHROME™ is available as markers and as 30 ml refill. The refill is perfectly suitable to be applied with an airbrush.

[Sanity is Optional]

25 minutes ago, Gabe Q said:

I looked into it and it seems you can buy just the refill ink and airbrush it on. I'm super curious about it now. From the Google:

The liquid chrome is the result of a long-term development of the also well-known BURNER™ ink from MOLOTOW™. LIQUID CHROME™ is available as markers and as 30 ml refill. The refill is perfectly suitable to be applied with an airbrush.

Molotow is great, I've got a pair of 1mm pens I ran dry (and then refilled) plus the two larger sized pens for larger areas.

[NZEOD]

10 minutes ago, Sanity is Optional said:

Molotow is great, I've got a pair of 1mm pens I ran dry (and then refilled) plus the two larger sized pens for larger areas.

What do you use the 1mm for? Curious on the application now.

 

[David Hingtgen]

I've used the 1mm on hose clamps on model cars.   

[Sanity is Optional]

2 minutes ago, NZEOD said:

What do you use the 1mm for? Curious on the application now.

Detail work on model kits. Usually Bandai Gunpla, but also some others including the 1/72 transforming Macross kits.

Spoiler

 

[NZEOD]

1 minute ago, Sanity is Optional said:

Detail work on model kits. Usually Bandai Gunpla, but also some others including the 1/72 transforming Macross kits.

  Reveal hidden contents

 

thanks, I usually brush it but the pen looks to give an ok finish too!

 

[Sanity is Optional]

Pen works just fine over small areas, it self-levels to a nice mirror finish.

[NZEOD]

Just bought one.

[NZEOD]

https://www.rocketpunch.biz/wip-hasegawa-vf1s-5/

Not mine but I'm doing this after seeing it!

 

Cheng, your canopy is on the way.

Edited May 26, 2020 by NZEOD

[wm cheng]

2 hours ago, NZEOD said:

Cheung, your canopy is on the way.

THANKS SO MUCH!!!

[NZEOD]

2 hours ago, wm cheng said:

THANKS SO MUCH!!!

now find me a Hasegawa VF-31E Chuck version...

come on... do the impossible