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Posted
On 3/19/2018 at 6:20 AM, derex3592 said:

... xacto knife slip and pretty substantial slice on the side of the thumb.. resin kits... gotta love em... 

Derex,

So you don't cut yourself again, I recommend the WeCheer low speed grinder on Ebay. It does really fine work for shaving and sanding, and you can keep the heat down as well. It uses the same drill bits as the Dremel. I use it for carving, cleaning photo etch, and removing nubs on resin and plastic. You still need the adult Dremel for drilling holes and serious carving, but with this you never have to shave with an Xacto again. Remember to always use a gas mask when grinding resin AND plastic. 

 

Posted

Thanks @arbit I'll look into that. It's always been a challenge for me to clean resin kits without F-ing up the part --  this kit is especially challenging because of the amount of small and delicate pieces.  I have a variable speed dremel, but I'm still learning what cutters and wheels do what. 

Posted
3 minutes ago, derex3592 said:

Thanks @arbit I'll look into that. It's always been a challenge for me to clean resin kits without F-ing up the part --  this kit is especially challenging because of the amount of small and delicate pieces.  I have a variable speed dremel, but I'm still learning what cutters and wheels do what. 

The Dremel is too strong for that. It's like a bucking stallion. But this one can do delicate work and you can control it.

Posted
4 minutes ago, derex3592 said:

but I'm still learning what cutters and wheels do what. 

Okay, some advise, you use these grinders mostly from the side of the bit to shave delicately. You don't use them like a drill, unless you're trying to gouge something out. 

Posted

DO NOT use your Big Daddy Dremel on your expensive model.

Posted (edited)
4 minutes ago, arbit said:

The Dremel is too strong for that. It's like a bucking stallion. But this one can do delicate work and you can control it.

yes!  That's exactly what it feels like, it just runs away from you and cuts into the part and then you're in trouble and having to do massive amounts of putty repair and shaping.  Ok, cool, I'll look into getting one of those, I still have the smallest parts to clean up, because I haven't wanted to screw them up.  I've been using a cutting wheel to get the bigger chunks off, and as long as your careful, that' s been working ok...

Edited by derex3592
Posted
1 minute ago, derex3592 said:

yes!  That's exactly what it feels like, it just runs away from you and cuts into the part and then you're in trouble and having to do massive amounts of putty repair and shaping.  Ok, cool, I'll look into getting one of those, I still have the smallest parts to clean up, because I haven't wanted to screw them up.

If you cant wait on shipping, I believe there are alternatives to the WeCheer at your hardware store that are low speed grinders, sometimes used for nails, sometimes battery powered. But I can only recommend this one because I have had it for months and it rocks.

Posted (edited)
15 minutes ago, derex3592 said:

I can wait..LOL... I'm married now, I don't get a whole lot of modeling time...:rolleyes:

You also need a set of Chinese diamond file bitd. I hardly use the Dremel bits. They are too strong.

And I dont give marriage advice, but trust me you will have a lot of modelling time when youre "not needed" around.

Edited by arbit
Posted

They have drum sanding bits. Thats what I use

Posted
3 hours ago, NZEOD said:

They have drum sanding bits. Thats what I use

How do you keep them from sliding off the rubber thingy?

Posted (edited)
6 hours ago, derex3592 said:

I can wait..LOL... I'm married now, I don't get a whole lot of modeling time...:rolleyes:

Derex, sounds like you could also use some Tamiya razor saws, the big one and little PE ones are great for removing big chunks safely. 

And I forgot to mention, wear protective glasses as well with the Dremel; I've had several bits break and fly off who-knows-where.

Edited by arbit
Posted
1 hour ago, arbit said:

How do you keep them from sliding off the rubber thingy?

Tighten the end screw down. It reforms the rubber insert to grip the sanding drum

Posted

Ohhhhhh have you not been cranking that screw down? That must have driven you nuts as the barrel will walk the dog right off the rubber or the rubber will spin inside the barrel and burn

Posted
2 hours ago, arbit said:

Derex, sounds like you could also use some Tamiya razor saws, the big one and little PE ones are great for removing big chunks safely. 

And I forgot to mention, wear protective glasses as well with the Dremel; I've had several bits break and fly off who-knows-where.

I'e had a dremel fibre cut off wheel explode and bury a half wheel chunk between my eyes across the bridge of my nose to the bone. Slightly amusing when my safety goggles were in arms reach

Posted
5 minutes ago, NZEOD said:

I'e had a dremel fibre cut off wheel explode and bury a half wheel chunk between my eyes across the bridge of my nose to the bone. Slightly amusing when my safety goggles were in arms reach

Which is why you never have your eye in line with the wheel. Even with a steel cutting blade. Had one too many close calls myself.

Posted
11 hours ago, arbit said:

Remember to always use a gas mask when grinding resin AND plastic.

I always cut, file and sand wet. I use a sink or shallow tray and use raxor saws to cut off the large pour stubs, a bastard file to get close to the part and finish with jewelers files and wet and dry abrasive paper. That way all the nasty resin dust is trapped and you can't breath it in. Just use a bit of WD40 on your tools after so they don't rust.

 

-Brett

Posted (edited)
43 minutes ago, NZEOD said:

Ohhhhhh have you not been cranking that screw down? That must have driven you nuts as the barrel will walk the dog right off the rubber or the rubber will spin inside the barrel and burn

Uhhhhh, yeah... I've watched that doggy walk right off the edge every time.

Edited by arbit
Posted
6 minutes ago, Return To Kit Form said:

I always cut, file and sand wet. I use a sink or shallow tray and use raxor saws to cut off the large pour stubs, a bastard file to get close to the part and finish with jewelers files and wet and dry abrasive paper. That way all the nasty resin dust is trapped and you can't breath it in. Just use a bit of WD40 on your tools after so they don't rust.

 

-Brett

Brett is right. But don't drill wet, because then you have other problems B))

Posted
38 minutes ago, NZEOD said:

I'e had a dremel fibre cut off wheel explode and bury a half wheel chunk between my eyes across the bridge of my nose to the bone. Slightly amusing when my safety goggles were in arms reach

Oh boy. Safety first every one.  

Posted

The bonus of having a genetic defect negating pain reception. 

The down side being a high disposition for somewhat reckless behaviour

Posted
3 hours ago, Return To Kit Form said:

I always cut, file and sand wet. I use a sink or shallow tray and use raxor saws to cut off the large pour stubs, a bastard file to get close to the part and finish with jewelers files and wet and dry abrasive paper. That way all the nasty resin dust is trapped and you can't breath it in. Just use a bit of WD40 on your tools after so they don't rust.

 

-Brett

This is really good advice. Thanks. I also need to find out what a Tamiya razor saw is apparently! 

Posted
35 minutes ago, derex3592 said:

This is really good advice. Thanks. I also need to find out what a Tamiya razor saw is apparently! 

In that case, you definitely need a razor saw. Classic Japanese tool. They cut in reverse stroke and are very thin.

Posted

well... I have the Xacto version of that, the one that came as a kit with a sanding block and some other stuff from when I was a teenager, but the grip doesn't hold the blade anymore. So I basically just have to hold the metal round part of the blade and saw.. and it's just to much work on large pieces of resin, I need a power tool. 

Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, derex3592 said:

well... I have the Xacto version of that, the one that came as a kit with a sanding block and some other stuff from when I was a teenager, but the grip doesn't hold the blade anymore. So I basically just have to hold the metal round part of the blade and saw.. and it's just to much work on large pieces of resin, I need a power tool. 

That's why you need the big saw. Cuts through the resin like butter.

Edited by arbit
Posted

Nice stitching Edstuff on the Solomon Grundy. Definitely not Beverly Hills plastic surgery:p

Arbit, with a name like "WeCheer," who could say no!:D

Grayson, I have a Sherline 4500 lathe. If you're thinking about buying a lathe, PM me for details. I researched A LOT before buying one.

Regarding "Lazer" saws and razor saws - you GOTTA have them! I also HIGHLY recommend the one from CMK kits (www.cmkkits.com). It is even thinner and awesome for tiny pieces, while leaving a thinner kerf (cut area) than the X-acto blades. It is also great for panel lining too! It is nearly paper thin material. It is actually designed for cutting resin, so it works great on styrene. - MT

Posted

My Battlestar Galactica is DUN!! This is actually the second one I made, as the first didn't turn out as good as I had wanted.

The build is here,

https://imgur.com/a/AfHCp

I took two Pegasus kits, cutting the head down and retopping it and using both of the large upper flight decks from both kits for the over/under pods. And using almost all the guns.

Maybe too much..?:o

OV84Z9o.jpg

Posted

I definitely echo MechTech’s recommendation for the CMK razor saw, a great and versatile tool. 

Posted

Nope, never enough guns OR missiles! Especially when the human race is at stake! - MT

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