Whats Lying on your Workbench MK IV

[arbit]

On 6/22/2017 at 2:07 AM, electric indigo said:

It's the Volks 1/100 LED Mirage from their fixed-pose Super Spirit Series. The first FSS kit I bought, way back in 1994.

How much sanding does that thing need?

Hats off to you resin modelers. Three hours later I'm not past the boots!

Edited June 24, 2017 by arbit

[electric indigo]

Despite being an original cast, some seamlines are pretty bad. I needed to build up certain areas with polyester putty and re-construct the lost details.

But the first 1/100 Mortar Headd I completed years ago was from the same era, and the cast was much better.

[pengbuzz]

Mold began wearing out perhaps? I know those molds have a fairly limited lifespan, but not sure if that would affect the seams first or the detailing.

[Big s]

If they are waterslide decals and won't stick, you could try micro set to stick them down and then microsol to help them curve to the rounded surface. They work better over a gloss surface, then seal and if you want them dull add a coat or so of dull coat.

[pengbuzz]

4 hours ago, Big s said:

If they are waterslide decals and won't stick, you could try micro set to stick them down and then microsol to help them curve to the rounded surface. They work better over a gloss surface, then seal and if you want them dull add a coat or so of dull coat.

Yes; I've used Micro-Sol for years, and it works on most decals pretty effectively. It makes them look like they were "painted on". I usually find it at Hobbytown USA for about $4.50 a 1 oz. bottle (a little goes a long way!).

[Big s]

It's good stuff especially for rounded surfaces like those helmets. And like said above a little goes a very long way.

[arbit]

Got my panel lining on. The Humbrol Clear doesnt seem to give a strong gloss after two light coats, so the enamel wash seeps a bit. It either needs a lot more coats next time, or it just doesnt work. For my standards its okay.

 

[Xigfrid]

Lookinggreat standard to me  

[coronadlux]

Need some advice. I was given a mospeada legioss fighter that can transform 1/48 scale. 

The issue is that the "winglets" on the nose were glued on with testor cement. So, they don't move to transform into soldier mode.

Any ideas on how to remove them without damaging the nose? I don't want to  butcher it beyond repair.

I recently acquired Captain's 1/48 legioss (soldier mode only) as well, I would like to display one with the other. Just to show how a proper kit should be made. 

Edited June 27, 2017 by coronadlux

[Big s]

You could try putting a bit of pressure on the area and hope the glue will loosen, but be extremely careful. 

[pengbuzz]

I would try "scoring" them lightly with an xacto knife where they were glued to the nose, then attempt to work them free.

If you could, please post a pic so we can see what's going on. I definitely don't want this broken on you either.

[no3Ljm]

On 6/21/2017 at 2:58 PM, Xigfrid said:

I'm loving this one, Xigfrid.    

 

[arbit]

Eye decal fit test looks good. These look about 10% too large, but I will take that over my neanderthal hand painting any day. The eyes are the most important and most difficult part of a figure. Without these decals, I would never even try it.

 

[coronadlux]

19 hours ago, pengbuzz said:

I would try "scoring" them lightly with an xacto knife where they were glued to the nose, then attempt to work them free.

If you could, please post a pic so we can see what's going on. I definitely don't want this broken on you either.

I'll try this way first. I will get a picture up in a few days. Thanks.

21 hours ago, Big s said:

You could try putting a bit of pressure on the area and hope the glue will loosen, but be extremely careful. 

The glue looks thick. I'll get a pic up soon.

[Big s]

Sometimes even if the glue is thick, it may not have stuck too strong. Good luck and I hope for the best. 

[arbit]

I need some painting advice to correct a mishap.

I got this white flash after adding a medium coat of gloss. (It may be from humidity or my skill level. I dont know...)

I've masked it off. Can I add another light layer of color on top of that to correct it? Thanks.

[pengbuzz]

13 hours ago, coronadlux said:

I'll try this way first. I will get a picture up in a few days. Thanks.

The glue looks thick. I'll get a pic up soon.

That's one reason I would simply score it with a knife; when glue is that thick, it can cause the plastic to shear and tear/ break in unpredictable ways. Better to score through it so if it does "shear", it does so along a pre-planned route.

[pengbuzz]

1 minute ago, arbit said:

I need some painting advice to correct a mishap.

I got this white flash after adding a medium coat of gloss. (It may be from humidity or my skill level. I dont know...)

I've masked it off. Can I add another light layer of color on top of that to correct it? Thanks.

I would try gently removing the flash with a little bit of toothpaste, water and a soft cloth first so it doesn't wear the paint away. If that doesn't work, then try a bit of color to it.

[Lt. Z0mBe]

20 hours ago, arbit said:

I need some painting advice to correct a mishap.

I got this white flash after adding a medium coat of gloss. (It may be from humidity or my skill level. I dont know...)

I've masked it off. Can I add another light layer of color on top of that to correct it? Thanks.

I have had the same thing happen a few times with various acrylic matte coats.  I would try dabbing a bit of Future over one of the little marks and see if the Future "fills in" the frosting.  The frosting is the matting agent that disrupts what would otherwise be a gloss coat.  If you can get it to "soak up" a bit of Future, it will get at least translucent, if not transparent.  Failing that, you can try popping off the little flakes with a piece of a plastic cotton swab shaft. 

I hope this helps.

Kenny

[arbit]

5 hours ago, Lt. Z0mBe said:

I have had the same thing happen a few times with various acrylic matte coats.  I would try dabbing a bit of Future over one of the little marks and see if the Future "fills in" the frosting.  The frosting is the matting agent that disrupts what would otherwise be a gloss coat.  If you can get it to "soak up" a bit of Future, it will get at least translucent, if not transparent.  Failing that, you can try popping off the little flakes with a piece of a plastic cotton swab shaft. 

I hope this helps.

Kenny

I have seen this when I try matte on mettalic.  But this was actually with a gloss, not a matte coat. Maybe I flooded it? I dont know what I did. It didnt form till it dried. 

 

[Salamander]

On 25/06/2017 at 11:20 AM, pengbuzz said:

Mold began wearing out perhaps? I know those molds have a fairly limited lifespan, but not sure if that would affect the seams first or the detailing.

I've got a few Volks kits that have the exact same issue, and it probably isn't a worn out mold, but a badly aligned one, as the parts tend to be perfectly straight and flawless in other places, also right next to the affected area.

 

On 27/06/2017 at 11:37 PM, arbit said:

Eye decal fit test looks good. These look about 10% too large, but I will take that over my neanderthal hand painting any day. The eyes are the most important and most difficult part of a figure. Without these decals, I would never even try it.

 

What scale are the figures? For figures larger than 1/10 scale I usually hand paint my eyes. You can exercise on a sheet of plastic, it's not particularly hard to paint decent eyes with a good tutorial (I used one found in an old issue of Hobby Japan, but there are also good ones to be found online). My main issue seems to be that the brushes used by Japanese figure painters are impossible to find where I live in Europe...(no sharp lines for me)

[Lt. Z0mBe]

1 hour ago, arbit said:

I have seen this when I try matte on mettalic.  But this was actually with a gloss, not a matte coat. Maybe I flooded it? I dont know what I did. It didnt form till it dried. 

 

Sorry!  I totally read "medium coat of gloss" as "matte coat of gloss" and assumed you meant you were making matte coat out of a glosscoat with a matting-agent.  I would still test the Future on an inconspicuous area.  I have accidentally frosted a glosscoat by unintentionally shooting a bit of 99-percent ISO onto cured Future before - the ISO was left over inside from cleaning the airbrush.  I figured Future clears CA frosting on canopies, maybe it would work on cured Future...and it did.  I airbrushed on a couple of light coats and the frosting disappeared.

Kenny

[arbit]

1 hour ago, Lt. Z0mBe said:

Sorry!  I totally read "medium coat of gloss" as "matte coat of gloss" and assumed you meant you were making matte coat out of a glosscoat with a matting-agent.  I would still test the Future on an inconspicuous area.  I have accidentally frosted a glosscoat by unintentionally shooting a bit of 99-percent ISO onto cured Future before - the ISO was left over inside from cleaning the airbrush.  I figured Future clears CA frosting on canopies, maybe it would work on cured Future...and it did.  I airbrushed on a couple of light coats and the frosting disappeared.

Kenny

What I meant by "medium coat of gloss" is that I sprayed it just a little wet. 

Maybe I need to apply multiple thin layers and let them dry until i build up a strong glossy coat for the washes.

Now I'm scared to death of the wet gloss coats people use.

For now I gave her a new coat of color and she looks fine.

 

Edited June 29, 2017 by arbit

[electric indigo]

I avoid clear coats as much as possible due to these potential hazards.

[arbit]

2 hours ago, electric indigo said:

I avoid clear coats as much as possible due to these potential hazards.

So how do you protect the paint and get your washes on?

Edited June 30, 2017 by arbit

[anubis20]

Some progress on the 31J. Ive gotten "high speed" mode completed 

 

 

[pengbuzz]

6 hours ago, anubis20 said:

Some progress on the 31J. Ive gotten "high speed" mode completed 

 

 

A nice, sharp-looking paint job there, Anubis! Looking forward to seeing the rest!

[pengbuzz]

I got bored after my last project. So first, I bought a small Statue of Liberty souvenir at a thrift store that had a busted arm. I fixed it, and this is pretty much what it looked like (forgot to take a "before" pic, so I had to find one online):

Well, it managed to get separated from its' pedestal during repairs, so that gave me an idea:

Same foam slats that went into making the launch arm served to replicate the full pedestal. My plan for this is to make a scale model of the entire complex the pedestal stands on. I might go as far as the whole island, depending upon space and materials (and size!).

Then, after taking a break, i got REALLY bored. So I then did this:

Just a simple stand for the Macross. When it's done, I intend it to display both cruiser and Storm Attacker modes equally well. We'll have to see how that works out.

 

Stay tuned...

Edited June 30, 2017 by pengbuzz

[electric indigo]

12 hours ago, arbit said:

So how do you protect the paint and get your washes on?

I use water-based gouache for washes & panel lines. 

[Thom]

8 hours ago, anubis20 said:

Some progress on the 31J. Ive gotten "high speed" mode completed 

 

 

Lovely!

[arbit]

[coronadlux]

On 6/28/2017 at 10:55 AM, pengbuzz said:

That's one reason I would simply score it with a knife; when glue is that thick, it can cause the plastic to shear and tear/ break in unpredictable ways. Better to score through it so if it does "shear", it does so along a pre-planned route.

 

Here's the problem piece. The top one is how it is supposed to be. The bottom shows the thick plastic cement. It should be able to move but it doesn't.

[coronadlux]

Here's a close-up.

[Big s]

Looks thick. You may have to rebuild the joint, or maybe recast the part after trimming it loose then drill a small hole for the peg.

[Podtastic]

6 hours ago, arbit said:

Isn't that what Lord Yupa was riding in Nasicaa?