Whats Lying on your Workbench MK IV

[NZEOD]

On ‎20‎/‎04‎/‎2017 at 1:43 AM, arbit said:

Mechtech, this Bud's for you. Literally.

 

get some petroleum jeppy after you've painted it and grease the shite out of the main wing joints... they will slide smoother then.

Failing that, shave a pencil and use the graphite powder as a dry lube. Its what I use in the trigger mech of my service weapon.

[NZEOD]

14 hours ago, Kylwell said:

Crap that shouldn't have happened? Had you thinned the clear coat by any chance?

nope straight from the bottle

 

[electric indigo]

Hnyargh!

[arbit]

2 hours ago, NZEOD said:

get some petroleum jeppy after you've painted it and grease the shite out of the main wing joints... they will slide smoother then.

Failing that, shave a pencil and use the graphite powder as a dry lube. Its what I use in the trigger mech of my service weapon.

Good idea. First thing my son said wasn't, "wow that's cool", it was, "can you make it smoother?"

Edited April 21, 2017 by arbit

[pengbuzz]

19 hours ago, Thom said:

Looks great so far! Looking forward to seeing this one done!

How's the SDF coming?

Well, the "pre-crash" ship is complete. Not much more I could do with it, and just debating on what price to sell it for. I would like to one day do a storm attacker of either the SDFM or DYRL version, if the opportunity presents itself.

[derex3592]

Got lucky and scored the last missing 1/144 Tomytec I was missing off Amazon for 9 bucks with reward points, Roy's Skull Leader,  I'm gonna miss these  little guys if they don't make any more...great quality and detail, 2.5 hours to build lazily from box open to in the display cabinet.    

[Kylwell]

On 4/21/2017 at 2:28 AM, arbit said:

The mysteries of paint properties...

That's why I have a life-long fear of painting. 

If worse comes to worse... strip it and do it over again.

[arbit]

Nice Derex. That is Macross!

How do you compare the proportions of the Comso SDF-1 to the SDF-1 kit you built?

 

[derex3592]

In my opinion, the Cosmo SDF-1 is a very stylized take on the ship. It definitely takes some getting use to.  I think it works better in attacker mode than cruiser. The model has always in my opinion nailed cruiser mode perfectly.  It's amazing they did so well back in the 80s. I only wish another company would make a modern one at a larger scale using that one as a jumping off point for the diminsions. I'll post a side by side pic later today for you.

Edited April 23, 2017 by derex3592

[arbit]

Your cruiser looks great. Its hard to get Attacker mode right. 

[MechTech]

Hey Arbit, be careful NOT to use petroleum jelly on your styrene parts. It weakens the molecular bond sometimes and you'll get a pile of junk. Graphite is safe and some silicones. I found this out the hardway! If it's on, just wash it off thoroughly. - MT

[derex3592]

Work on the Republic Star Destroyer slowed down over the past few weekends, getting back to it some this weekend 

[pengbuzz]

Speaking of Star Wars, I finished reworking the stand I had for a snaptitie pre-painted X-Wing model I got at a thrift store. In addition to stripping the paint, making modifications and repainting the thing, I custom-built a stand for it:

 

 

Now I just have to figure out how to get THE BLOODY DATE STAMP OFF THE CAMERA!!!

Edited April 24, 2017 by pengbuzz

[pengbuzz]

3 hours ago, MechTech said:

Hey Arbit, be careful NOT to use petroleum jelly on your styrene parts. It weakens the molecular bond sometimes and you'll get a pile of junk. Graphite is safe and some silicones. I found this out the hardway! If it's on, just wash it off thoroughly. - MT

Yeah; I found out the hard way that petroleum-based stuff (like thinners, jelly, et al) can spell doom for styrene.

[arbit]

18 hours ago, MechTech said:

Hey Arbit, be careful NOT to use petroleum jelly on your styrene parts. It weakens the molecular bond sometimes and you'll get a pile of junk. Graphite is safe and some silicones. I found this out the hardway! If it's on, just wash it off thoroughly. - MT

Does that include the normal model parts? I think they are polystyrene.

[hal9000]

I've been working on getting my airbrushes back up and running and working on a fully painted RX-78-2.  Its been a few years since I last airbrushed a model,  But now Ive built a booth and got my compressor and all my guns working, just a few more parts and they will all work at once. :).  

Also this is my first attempt at pre shading,  All of this is practice for when I get to my resin kit Alex.  I really want to do that kit justice.  

But I have a question for the more experienced painters.  I would like to try using Future(Floor wax)  for a decal and panel line layer.  My question is will it work and should I let my base coat cure for a set time.  My base coat is Tamyia Acrylic thinned with lacquer (If you've never tried it, Its amazing changed my life:), Over Tamiya rattle can white primer.  Also I normaly panel line with Tamiya Panel Accent, and clean up with a ear swab damped with lacquer. ?Is that ok with a Future coat? 
also how long to let the Future dry before Tamiya mat top coat? 
And heres a few sheild picks for a bit of WIP, parts are just set together.  Heads up black pre shade wont show through two light coats of dark grey.  

Thanks for the help and ill post a few more WIP pics for fun as I do them, Or learn something to share.

 

[arbit]

Hal9000, Looks gorgeous already.

You can certainly put Tamiya Panel Accent on the future. The Panel Accent is enamel, so you want to wipe that with a hobby enamel thinner or lighter fluid.

But I don't know how lacquer interacts with Future. Others might know..

[derex3592]

I've gotten away from using Future through my airbrushes, it just doesn't work well for me.  It gums up my airbrush to quickly, and is a pain, do you thin it, do you not thin it, blah blah blah..  Also, you have to let it cure for DAYS.  I've been going with Tamiya TS Clear Spray cans lately, more $$$ but soooo much easier IMO. I know a lot of people swear by Future, and I really wanted to be on of them, but I for one like the Tamiya Clear spray cans much better.  Rock solid layer that you can do pretty much anything you want to over it.

Edited April 24, 2017 by derex3592

[MechTech]

Hey Arbit, yes. ANY petroleum based lubricants will eventually if not right away, break down the the styrene. I used to use it on my model ships with R/C and started to notice brittleness and breakage. Your kit is styrene unless the parts were marked "ABS" on the runners. Even vegetable oil will screw it up. Pure silicone oil is your safe bet (and also what I'm using on the boat). It gets all over so be careful with it - MT

[Big s]

Definitely use a more mild thinner when cleaning up painted parts. Enamel thinner or art store mineral spirits for oil paints are usually ok, the lighter fluid also works. Lacquer thinner can sneak into a spot not coated completely and pretty much ruin a great pant job. It can even remove acrylic paints and if it's a strong lacquer thinner it can even ruin plastics.

[arbit]

Gee thanks guys. Now I know what a silicone lubricant is.

[Nyankodevice]

been working on this the last couple of days...

not quite done yet....

 

 

and these are upcomming projects! 

 

 

[pengbuzz]

11 hours ago, Nyankodevice said:

been working on this the last couple of days...

not quite done yet....

 

 

and these are upcomming projects! 

 

 

*pengbuzz drools at VF-1*

[Xigfrid]

almost there... I need to brain storm how to attach the armor plates on the chest / wings and I will be good.

[electric indigo]

Xigfrid, which variant is that?

-

I reached a much needed milestone today.

[wmkjr]

1 hour ago, electric indigo said:

Xigfrid, which variant is that?

VF-1X++. From Macross the Ride.

[wm cheng]

1 hour ago, electric indigo said:

Xigfrid, which variant is that?

-

I reached a much needed milestone today.

Wow!  Flawless paint scheme, all that masking really paid off.  It's going to look so beautiful!

[Chronocidal]

5 hours ago, Xigfrid said:

almost there... I need to brain storm how to attach the armor plates on the chest / wings and I will be good.

Not to add a ton more sanding and polishing of new parts to your situation, but would making new wings from scratch be an option?  If your goal is to make the set removable, that's stretching things a bit though, even if the wings are fairly easy to replace.

[Thom]

8 hours ago, Xigfrid said:

almost there... I need to brain storm how to attach the armor plates on the chest / wings and I will be good.

Wow, great looking mods! That'll look super!

[arbit]

9 hours ago, electric indigo said:

I reached a much needed milestone today.

Lookin good! 

 

[MechTech]

That Viggin is looking nice!

It looks like you could use magnets Thom to attach the parts and then easily remove them. The magnetic bond is strongest when they touch each other, but you can probably get away with a thin layer of plastic between them to keep the paint nice. - MT

[pengbuzz]

UPDATE:

 

Right now, it's just in "marker colors" to give me a sense of the placement of the parts and an idea of how it will look when finished. The feet still need some bulking up (they look small) and I still need to refine shapes and add stuff to the font and back of the legs. The "pads" on the feet need to be filled in and hemispherical (working that out now), and I need to start weapons soon.

Overall though, I don't think it's too bad for a 1/72 scratchbuild.

Stay tuned...
 

[Xigfrid]

15 hours ago, electric indigo said:

Xigfrid, which variant is that?

This is the VF 1 X ++ variant, my favorite VF 1 mainly because it is the technologically most advanced VF-1 using such exclusive features that only a few elite pilots as Hakuna can make it fly !

 

10 hours ago, Chronocidal said:

Not to add a ton more sanding and polishing of new parts to your situation, but would making new wings from scratch be an option?  If your goal is to make the set removable, that's stretching things a bit though, even if the wings are fairly easy to replace.

Making the complete wing is an option, but because you need to sand a lot and that the wing is thin (then hard to smooth homogeneously), the result from WSF plastic would be a little "meh". I still can make the addon part to be glued on the wing though.

The thing that really bother me are the armor plates on the chest, over the wings. I must find a way to attach them nicely, they are very important to me, because they contribute a lot to the VF 1 X++ look in battroid, making it more similar to a VF-25. Have a look to the pictures below.

 

8 hours ago, Thom said:

Wow, great looking mods! That'll look super!

hehe, these are the supers parts! should look super

[Xigfrid]

Another thing bothering me is that the Yamato hands hold badly the VF-25 gunpod... ho well, when such small details are bothering me, this is time to stop tweaking things, otherwise I will end making a whole VF-1 from scratch.

[Chronocidal]

Oh, I didn't realize those entire plates are attached to just the backplate, I figured they would split, and was going to suggest hiding a magnet inside the vernier port on the chest plate as a mounting point. 

That is a tricky one then.