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Posted
On 1/14/2017 at 10:33 AM, derex3592 said:

Finished the Vf-31 kit today.  Not one drop of glue.  This thing locks together SUPER tight in fighter mode.  I'm amazed, you can swoosh it around and shake it,  nothing rattles or pops off. I would never say it's a replacement for the DX,  but for 30 bucks,  it ain't bad.  Don't know if I'll try a transformation or not.  Maybe later,  gonna ponder a cool custom paint scheme to do on it.   

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*snipped*

Awesome! and impressive that not a single drop of glue required! My son has definitely changed his mind about (not) getting one and I think the only way I'd buy one is if the VF-31A variant was available.. Perhaps I'll wait till they release it and give it a go! Has there been any mention about it?

Posted

hahha ok... its not???

I thought it was as was amazed at how accurately the side nose panels were the the "screen" shot with the black background!

Posted

I've put up a full video in model Kits section. Thanks to everyone for their advice on this.

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Posted

did the wings come in clear for this or did you make your own wings?

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, NZEOD said:

did the wings come in clear for this or did you make your own wings?

The whole kit was clear. The clear parts benefited the lighting in some areas like the engine and the cockpit, but also made it more difficult to occulate where needed. I learned a few lessons, that's for sure.

Dealing with the clear wings was the worst. Those did NOT need to be clear. I should have primed in black, I guess, but I don't know how white would look on black. Aside from the fact that I can't paint!

Edited by arbit
Posted

That looks incredible!  Love how all those pieces come together - things you recognise from other mechs no longer look like they belong there, it just blends seamlessly!  Very nice work.

Posted
21 minutes ago, Nyankodevice said:

the legs are pretty much done!B))

 

They look Great!

Posted

Great work guys, I gotta give you props, so here's two!!!:D

First the hubs from last week slit to accept the blades at the correct angle.  Then the blade template printed and pasted (rubber cement), then the blades cut and rough filed.  Finally the prop hubs were turned to blend into the prop shaft and the blades were soldered, then shaped and angled with a jig.  The blades have an airfoil (hydro foil) cut into the leading and trailing edges. The props and pods are ready for the prop shafts to be made now.  3mm set screws will attach them to the prop shaft.  I can almost taste the water! - MT

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Posted

Thanks guys!  I still need to get on the 3D printer band wagon.  For now, it's faster to do it "old school." - MT

Posted

Given the amount of work you do with metal, I think a 3D printer would be most useful for you in building jigs.  Still, given your penchant for engineering, I'm guessing you'd do some amazing things with one, just the same.

Posted
On 1/19/2017 at 3:53 AM, MechTech said:

Great work guys, I gotta give you props, so here's two!!!:D

First the hubs from last week slit to accept the blades at the correct angle.  Then the blade template printed and pasted (rubber cement), then the blades cut and rough filed.  Finally the prop hubs were turned to blend into the prop shaft and the blades were soldered, then shaped and angled with a jig.  The blades have an airfoil (hydro foil) cut into the leading and trailing edges. The props and pods are ready for the prop shafts to be made now.  3mm set screws will attach them to the prop shaft.  I can almost taste the water! - MT

So how will it run? Is it going to be remote control?

Posted

Thanks Micky G!

Cool mods Electric Indigo.

Yeah Arbit, R/C.  I mentioned to you before about some guy using Arduino, but he just used it to alter receiver signals.  He had 3 motors and speed controls using Arduino to tell only one control to go in reverse.  I"m using one brushless outrunner motor per linear jet.  I have two sticks coupled together and two speed controls so I won't need all that extra aggravation. - MT

Posted

Here's some updates for today.

First, here's what I call "The Menagerie."  They're the background zombies that will be seen through the doorway, not quite out of the lab bunker  They've been finished for a while and are slightly less detailed than the "Hero Zombies":

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Some more recent progress in these images.  You can see I have started on the Celluclay groundwork.  The earth is clay from my background, pulverized with a mortar-and-pestle and then sifted.  The little flags are made using the same gauge copper wire as the pins that will set the figures on the base, thus making sure (hopefully) that the figures' pins have a nice hole to go into:

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Finally, you can see I've finished with the concrete seams on the bunker.  I also added in some plywood "grain" that would have been left over from the forming process.  I did this with 100-grit sandpaper, pulled across the surface in the appropriate direction for the "real" form's orientation:

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More updates to come.  Comments and criticisms welcome.

Kenny

Posted

The city fight moves slowly forward...

Working on the layout and trying to figure out the heights of buildings to use and how wide to make the streets. These pics show a normal street with 2 lanes, parking space and sidewalks... think I need to add a centre road Island to get some more width.

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Posted
8 hours ago, chyll2 said:

can Shapeway FUD can withstand a bath of lacquer? I need to strip it from a thick lacquer paints :(

Probably it can, I have used alcool and acetone on it, but I would be cautious with a long bath. 

Posted

Nice effects Lt Zombie; styrene guts n all!

@NZEOD - "Men, blow up the Scentsy box - it has to go!":p

My model got shafted, er ah shafts - dual prop shafts.  The prop shafts are now are installed.  I built boxes around them and poured silicone RTV into them as a water seal and to absorb vibration helping keep them quiet.  In the last photo you can see how the props blend nicely into the prop shafts.  Still need to shape the protruding rims of the nacelles.  The grub screws will also be ground down so they are flush on the props. - MT

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Posted
38 minutes ago, MechTech said:

@NZEOD - "Men, blow up the Scentsy box - it has to go!":p

There will actually be a sound track to the display. When a button is pushed it will play the radio comms of the Valk strike team preping for the ambush, another will play the initial gun fire as the Team leader bolts across the gap to bait the trap, a third will play all hell breaking loose and the final will be the popping and crackling of cooling metal and fires with the mission report raytel.

Wishing I had lit the "eye lens" on the pods now I realise how dark the urban canyon could be...

Posted (edited)

How have you sealing the rotating shafts against the shaft holder tubes?

Lots of grease or oil down the side feed tube?

Edited by NZEOD
Posted

Nice use of cereal boxes!

But whats your long term plan for the buildings?

Posted (edited)

Cool NZEOD!  I'm looking forward to a video or something.  By the way, we love Weatabix!

The pipes are filled with oil or grease.  I've never had one leak on me yet.  The shaft sits in a bearing which sits in a tube.  The space is filled with grease / oil and seals it off while lubricating the bearings.  Going for motor mounts and connectors today. - MT

Edited by MechTech
Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, MechTech said:

Cool NZEOD!  I'm looking forward to a video or something.  By the way, we love Weatabix!

The pipes are filled with oil or grease.  I've never had one leak on me yet.  The shaft sits in a bearing which sits in a tube.  The space is filled with grease / oil and seals it off while lubricating the bearings.  Going for motor mounts and connectors today. - MT

Grease is the word. B))

Edited by pengbuzz
Posted

I got the back blocked out, now I need some help: The film prop has a mesh area that would translate to 0.5 mm mesh width in scale. Can somebody point me to photoetch/military modeling supplies that would fit? 

TIA

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