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Posted

you use those coloured chalk bars to weather things with I take it?

Posted

I use a combination of Pro Modelers Washes, light dirt, dark dirt, grime and rust, as well as Tamiya weathering kits and also the pastel chalk scraped off into a powder and applied with a dry paint brush. Not particularly in that order, I vary the methods to give the weathering more depth. Basically I kinda make it up as I go along!

Posted

Taking a little Macross break

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Will probably be the last kit I build for a few months. Winter in Sapporo is not all that conductive to painting. Got plenty of Nanoblock kits to build, and a papercraft SDF-1 to tide me though till Spring.

Posted

Got almost everything done today. Got a few minor touch ups to make, and I might do a bit more weathering, but at this point it would be free, but whatever. I actually used the stickers that came with the toy for all the grill covers and the cockpit, good quality stickers. Looks pretty good for a big hunk of crap plastic that was at one point on sale for like $35 last year at this time. If it were mine I would have done the Shapeways upgraded radar dish and possibly the entire cockpit assembly, but that would have been a huge job in itself, not to mention pricey.

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Posted

1/60 pg red astray. After this several Macross kits and finalizing 1/60 Yamato assembly VF-1S custom.

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Posted (edited)

Here is some Zentran love.


I'm looking for some ideas on how to temporarily seal the hull on a capital ship after electric wiring inside.


For smaller scale builds like this 1/20000 Arii kit, if I glue the seam line closed, I wont be able to access the wiring later.



Any links or tips appreciated.


Edited by arbit
Posted (edited)

Here is some Zentran love.

I'm looking for some ideas on how to temporarily seal the hull on a capital ship after electric wiring inside.

For smaller scale builds like this 1/20000 Arii kit, if I glue the seam line closed, I wont be able to access the wiring later.

Any links or tips appreciated.

I have been thinking about a similar setup. First you can't definitively seal the model with the battery inside because sooner or later you will have to replace it. For the switch I thought of making a 3D printed battery cage with a thin and flexible tab where you can glue a micro magnet. To close this flexible tab acting like a switch, you would need to use an outside magnet too, which would be more or less visible.

This is how far I went with this idea. Don't know if it can help for your project!

Derex, that falcon looks really great!

Edited by Xigfrid
Posted

Well, with PacRim 2 going down... I find myself with some unexpected extra time on my hands!

I finally got back to my disaster a few years ago when I thought the Alclad black undercoat was Lacquer as it says on the bottle, but in fact it was an enamel and the oil wash I did on top ate into the undercoat causing a big mess.

I ended up buying another kit and re-building it. This has to be a cursed kit, so many things went wrong but I finally dug it up and finished it last week. At least its in a presentable stage. I used so many different Alclad metalizer colours to differentiate the panels, but in the end it only looks like 2-3 shades (a lot of effort for naught). I also used a clear Tamiya red for the forward section with a metalizer undercoat and I love the way it gives the red so much more depth. I must commend Bandai for such a intricate and detailed tiny model, it really does the Cosmo Zero justice!

I'm going onto a pair of Tie fighters and Darth's Advanced Tie from Fine Molds next - caught the Star Wars fever, plus its been a while since I built anything, they're small and easy and hopefully will train my skills back a bit in preparation for the newer Bandai Star Wars kits.

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At least I think you have invented some new silver metallic colors!

Posted

Testing the lights on this vf-0s hasegawa, old kit. Needs some touch ups for a proper photo shoot.

Interested to know about your battery setup inside that kit.

I am finding that multiple LEDs really drain batteries fast, especially since we can't fit a 9 volt battery in these kits.

I have tried stringing three small 3v batteries.

But the drain is very fast, even with resistors.

Posted (edited)

Here is some Zentran love.

I'm looking for some ideas on how to temporarily seal the hull on a capital ship after electric wiring inside.

For smaller scale builds like this 1/20000 Arii kit, if I glue the seam line closed, I wont be able to access the wiring later.

Any links or tips appreciated.

How about using modeling clay or blue tac in the hull cavity? Sorry, I can't see the pics.

Edited by wmkjr
Posted (edited)

How about using modeling clay or blue tac in the hull cavity? Sorry, I can't see the pics.

Here are the pics which I deleted by accident.

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Edited by arbit
Posted (edited)

@Arbit - why not try using strong magents along the seems or micro flat head screws with nuts (I've done both).

@Derex - That Falcon came out AWESOME for a $35 piece of plastic! Hopefuilly your boss appreciates it! That sucks about your dad, but cool you have photos of him up. I lost two grandparents to Alzheimers and it was sad to see them slowly not know who I was. The good news is at least you can remember your dad! - MT

Edited by MechTech
Posted

@Arbit - why not try using strong magents along the seems or micro flat head screws with nuts (I've done both).

Thanks MT. I will give it a shot. Those micro screws look addictive.

Posted

I have been thinking about a similar setup. First you can't definitively seal the model with the battery inside because sooner or later you will have to replace it. For the switch I thought of making a 3D printed battery cage with a thin and flexible tab where you can glue a micro magnet. To close this flexible tab acting like a switch, you would need to use an outside magnet too, which would be more or less visible.

This is how far I went with this idea. Don't know if it can help for your project!

Derex, that falcon looks really great!

Try Induction charging for a battery setup. You'll never need to swap out a battery then. The model just has to be placed on an induction charger to recharge the cells.

Posted (edited)

With the Falcon out of the way, I finished up droid number 1 this morning. R5-D4, 1/12 Bandai. All parts painted on the sprue with Tamiya spray paints then snapped together. No glue used. Need to decal and maybe some wearhering later. Gotta finish R2 next. Sorry for the sideways pics.

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Edited by derex3592
Posted (edited)

Thats come up good for a quick job!

Just because I'm an idiot and like loading on the work, I had an idea after seeing one of the boys from the unit dual wielding airsoft carbines during the Xmas function shootout at the local Ex Mental Institute Paintball place, Asylum. He was with his back to a wall on a corridor corner, both rifles held upright pointing up at the ceiling grinning like an idiot while the OP force team were hammering rounds down the hallway...

Reminded me of the scene from the old activision game Heavy Gear... link below, go to 0.41 to see the moment.

I'm working on a dual wielding Fighter mode VF-1 and had the idiotic idea of building a scene with a Battroid version of my Dual wielding VF hugging a street corner wall of a building thats getting shot up. The building will have beam cannon damage and feature flickering room lighting a partially collapsed wall facing. I may include a discarded ruined Super pack in the street likes its been dumped in a hurry by the VF, with exposed wiring and internals and maybe if I can do it, a lighting effect to look like an internal fire or sparking.

Xmas project...

Link for a diorama building lighting project. Liking the lens angle on the LEDs they use!

http://www.instructables.com/id/Creative-diorama-lighting-with-the-Arduino-and-TLC/

Edited by NZEOD
Posted

With the Falcon out of the way, I finished up droid number 1 this morning. R5-D4, 1/12 Bandai. All parts painted on the sprue with Tamiya spray paints then snapped together. No glue used. Need to decal and maybe some wearhering later. Gotta finish R2 next. Sorry for the sideways pics.

Nice! but are those the droids we're looking for?

Posted

yes! They were! Now I need to get the BB-8 kit, which happens to be coming soon bundled with another R2 which is fine with me, there's a couple of things I want to do different on my next R2. Here's a few pics of the finished product, the BB-8 box front and my next project I think I'm gonna tackle.

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Posted (edited)

Final beauty shots before he goes to his new home tomorrow where a very excited 5 and 8 year old boy and girl who are both huge Star Wars fans await! Edit... Final pic of when we started!

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Edited by derex3592
Posted

That came out GREAT Derex! Beautiful job all around and the lighting really makes it stand out! Congrats to you and to the two children who will receive it! - MT

Posted

This mornings haul that turned up on the Couriers to work... NICE!!

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Posted (edited)

Amazon, pretty much everything I've bought was through Amazon. Good prices and stupidly quick freight even when I pick the slowest method!, still only 5 days to NZ

http://www.amazon.com/Macross-VF-1J-Strike-Valkyrie-SVF-41/dp/B0018RU5G8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450908807&sr=8-1&keywords=VF-1+black+aces

40 kits on offer at the moment.

Edited by NZEOD
Posted (edited)

4 on the go at the moment. The F/A-18 version of the VF-1D on the Carrier deck, the VF-19 Raven on the Carrier deck, the VF-11C on the Carrier Deck and the VF-1 Spec Forces Quad Beam Super on the Launch Arm!

Roll on Xmas break!!

Edited by NZEOD
Posted

4 on the go at the moment. The F/A-18 version of the VF-1D on the Carrier deck, the VF-19 Raven on the Carrier deck, the VF-11C on the Carrier Deck and the VF-1 Spec Forces Quad Beam Super on the Launch Arm!

Roll on Xmas break!!

Like spanner, I think this would be beyond imaginable!

Derex, this Falcon Millenium is beautifull, I hope your boss will like it very much :)

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