Whats Lying on your Workbench MK IV

[arbit]

1 hour ago, derex3592 said:

Did that a year ago mate! 

Nice!!!

I thought you must have.

More photo angles please. Great job on the weathering and panels.

Edited February 13, 2017 by arbit

[derex3592]

No problem. The was my first commission build with lighting built for my boss and his kids over a year ago. He bought the toy and I put about 4 months of work in on it off and on to turn it into something pretty cool.  It is a beast! As near as makes no difference it's 1/48 scale. 

Edited February 14, 2017 by derex3592

[slide]

 

My Frontier pile is complete; sans VF-27... still unsure if I want one

the Bandai Luca is just for the ghosts... gonna hand her over to a buddy after I pillage them from the kit.

From this stash I should be able to build a complete skull platoon and a Super-pack equipped Skull platoon, Ozma's Armoured, and a custom RVF-25 in a more modern AWACS scheme [I love the RVF-25... besides the Armour pack, it's my favorite VF-25 mod]

just waiting on my shipment of Mr Color paints [I'm being a stickler for my 'on-screen' builds, and Hasegawa's call-outs sure seem correct to my eyes], and some sanders/washes from Flory models, then the fun begins..

 

 

That aught to keep me busy for a bit... so which one do y'all think I should start with? I've found during my warhammer days that I'm most efficient with an assembly-line style approach, so I'm thinking of starting with the non-super platoon, while flitting to the Armoured and/or Ghosts to stave-off monotony... any issues with the Bandai ghosts, or the Armoured VF-25s? I know the regular ones can be a bit floppy in fighter mode, anything to watch for or avoid?

[mickyg]

Looking forward to seeing your progress. I've got the RVF kit too, also to rob the ghosts. And I'm also contemplating doing the RVF in a more traditional scheme too. 

Start with the RVF!

[chyll2]

lol, I am also thinking of traditional scheme or similar scheme of VE-11 for RVF-25. Unfortunately, I dont have the time recently, so I never really pushed the idea.

 

SO start with the RVF-25 gets my vote.

 

@derex3592

that is some big and awesome stuff. the lighting it good as well.

[NZEOD]

haha I bought the Bandai RVF for the Ghosts as well.

Getting the VF-29 then they just need a YF-30 Chronos kit... someone must want to make one!

[arbit]

Yes, lets see some valks. Personally I find them to be the most difficult.

Anyone know what this magical compound he is using to clean up enamel wash? He uses it AFTER using the enamel thinner with a q-tip.

 

Edited February 14, 2017 by arbit

[arbit]

7 hours ago, derex3592 said:

No problem. The was my first commission build with lighting built for my boss and his kids over a year ago. He bought the toy and I put about 4 months of work in on it off and on to turn it into something pretty cool.  It is a beast! As near as makes no difference it's 1/48 scale. 

So you need one for yourself, with fiber!

[chyll2]

@arbit

Looks like a bottle of Tamiya thinner, probably whatever he used to thinned down the XF-63 paint he used for pin wash. (XF are enamel paints)

[arbit]

6 minutes ago, chyll2 said:

@arbit

Looks like a bottle of Tamiya thinner, probably whatever he used to thinned down the XF-63 paint he used for pin wash. (XF are enamel paints)

Keep watching, after the thinner, he uses a white goo.

[mickyg]

1 hour ago, arbit said:

Yes, lets see some valks. Personally I find them to be the most difficult.

Anyone know what this magical compound he is using to clean up enamel wash? He uses it AFTER using the enamel thinner with a q-tip.

 

I think it's polishing compound. 

[chyll2]

mickyg beat me to it. It is polishing compound, the video states 9800, that maybe is the grit level of the compound.

 

edit: the packaging is different but if what I read from a google search thread, what he uses is Soft 99 Liquid compound 9800 Grit or 0.5 Micron (

Edited February 14, 2017 by chyll2

[arbit]

29 minutes ago, chyll2 said:

mickyg beat me to it. It is polishing compound, the video states 9800, that maybe is the grit level of the compound.

 

edit: the packaging is different but if what I read from a google search thread, what he uses is Soft 99 Liquid compound 9800 Grit or 0.5 Micron (

I need some. Cant find it. Looks amazing.

Edited February 14, 2017 by arbit

[arbit]

On my workbench now, the N-Nautilus started before.

Playing around with different ideas for lighting the engine. No final plans, just experimenting.

Edited February 15, 2017 by arbit

[MechTech]

It's "compoundo" guys!   I just usually use some isopropyl on a swab or rag to clean up excess.  Too much cleans out the panel lines.

Do it Arbit.  You got the motion, get the lights too.- MT

[Kylwell]

9 hours ago, arbit said:

I need some. Cant find it. Looks amazing.

http://www.soft99.co.jp/english/products/carcare/compound/compound_9800.html?pid=09145

You can probably use Tamiya Fine or even Novus polishing compound. Just get the Fine or Extra-Fine stuff.

[505thAirborne]

Hey guys, I am working on my Mirage VF-31 kit and have decided I want to paint on all the purple, gray and white stripes vs. using the decals. 

Any idea what colors I can use from Tamiya? (My only two local shops carry Testors and none of those shades will work). 

Thank you! 

Edited February 14, 2017 by 505thAirborne

[slide]

RVF it is then... what colour(s) are folks using for their 'Luca-green'?

 

the constructions call for CR mixes ... but I can't seem to find anyplace that carries these Mr Color products... at least not in my Beloved Canuckistan. And I don't want to mix 3 things at once if it can be avoided.

the Bandai instructions call for a 2-paint mix of white and 'Daytona Green' in various strengths [which is a bonus because the Ghosts call for this colour with a grey, so two-birds etc.]... can anyone verify that Mr color 66 is that same 'Daytona Green' or close enough? [I'm not a car guy, so I have no idea how broad a definition there is of this colour]

[pengbuzz]

17 hours ago, arbit said:

Yes, lets see some valks. Personally I find them to be the most difficult.

Okay...

 

Still got some work to do, but the shoulder hinges are now rebuilt and in place, and decalling is going quite well. Just need to do some panel-line shading and silver for edge-wear, amongst other things.

Full update in the thread for this in a bit; I want to get some Battroid pics as well.

 

Edited February 15, 2017 by pengbuzz

[Big s]

505th I think no matter what paint you get you will have to do some mixing to get that color. And you said the local hobby shops nearby only sell testors but they may also have their new model master lacquer system paints. They have a limited amount of colors, but you may be able to mix them to what you need and they stick really well to moving parts. They're pretty close to mr color quality. You may also be able to order the paints you are looking for through those local stores.

that color looks like it could be made with a standard purple mix then adding a bit more red and a bit of white. The gray looks like a standard gray with a touch of brown, but that's just from looking at the posted pictures.

[NZEOD]

On 15/02/2017 at 0:16 AM, arbit said:

I need some. Cant find it. Looks amazing.

http://v-spec.co.nz/soft99

http://www.soft99.co.jp/english/products/carcare/compound/compound_9800.html?pid=09145

http://v-spec.co.nz/soft99/Soft99-99-workshop-liquid-compound-Three-types-of-compound-set

 

Edited February 15, 2017 by NZEOD

[arbit]

Thanks!

[NZEOD]

looks to be a super fine liquid cutting compound

http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/autoparts-agency/item/450887270/

Link states is components are Surfactants, Abrasives and Petroleum based solvents.

Its the last two do the work we are seeing in the vid.

Edited February 16, 2017 by NZEOD

[arbit]

Found the 99soft 3-pack with free shipping on Ebay.

Also caved in and got the IJN Yamato for the kitbash. I thought I would be sick of the thing after working on it for a year. Nope!

It's like a one-stop diorama, with so many gimmicks that I now understand why my 8-yr old self went bonkers.

Watching 2199 with my son may also have something to do with it.

 

Edited February 16, 2017 by arbit

[captain america]

On 2/13/2017 at 8:32 PM, derex3592 said:

No problem. The was my first commission build with lighting built for my boss and his kids over a year ago. He bought the toy and I put about 4 months of work in on it off and on to turn it into something pretty cool.  It is a beast! As near as makes no difference it's 1/48 scale. 

Great work you've done on the ol' hunk of junk! How is the plastic on this bird? I seem to recall reading that it was somewhat rubbery.

[derex3592]

It was freakin horrible Cap., very soft and rubbery. Drilling it was a nightmare.

Edited February 17, 2017 by derex3592

[Thom]

I have too many kits going right now. So let's start another!!

Bandai's 1/1000 Kirishima. The only things glued at the moment are some bulges and fins. Everything else is press-fit until after paint.

Edited February 18, 2017 by Thom

[derex3592]

Nice! 

[arbit]

Cool. I had just read on Tim Eldred site that it was always called Okitas Battleship, and never had a name til 2199!

[electric indigo]

I finished the painting on the body of my Yel-Line kit.

The dark parts were painted with Vallejo's acrylic Metal Color paint, which is just great to work with. Airbrush-ready from the bottle, odorless, covers very well, and dries within minutes.

[derex3592]

On my side of the road over here,  my very poor sanding and painting skills have finally produced some form of results on the *cough (2nd) *cough SDF-1 nose and some other parts... trying a red acrylic panel line wash on the door of the carrier... never done this before... we'll see how it goes. Need a way to do very thin yellow and white wash lines with on the carriers,  I can't mask lines that small... 

[Kylwell]

On 2/14/2017 at 3:29 AM, chyll2 said:

@arbit

Looks like a bottle of Tamiya thinner, probably whatever he used to thinned down the XF-63 paint he used for pin wash. (XF are enamel paints)

No, they're acrylics like the rest of the line, just flat. Hence the "F".

[MechTech]

Looking great guys!  I made a steel punch for windows and I'm still working the bridge design before cutting styrene.

Derex, why don't you try thin decal strips that color or paint some portions of decal sheets for the SDF-1?  Then carefully with a SHARP razor cut the strips the width you need.  That's how I keep my sanity with small models and THIN lines.  The decal paper will still lay down flat with paint on it.  Enamels seem to work best. - MT

[slide]

34 minutes ago, MechTech said:

Looking great guys!  I made a steel punch for windows and I'm still working the bridge design before cutting styrene.

Derex, why don't you try thin decal strips that color or paint some portions of decal sheets for the SDF-1?  Then carefully with a SHARP razor cut the strips the width you need.  That's how I keep my sanity with small models and THIN lines.  The decal paper will still lay down flat with paint on it.  Enamels seem to work best. - MT

not bad ideas

 

you could also give that area a very light fine-grit sanding to get rid of the excess red.

[Thom]

Some great builds on the page!

I laid down paint. Tomorrow I'll put it together and do decals. Then clear gloss and a wash and then flat. Hope to be done in a couple o days!