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Posted
On 1/16/2025 at 7:34 AM, pengbuzz said:

UPDATE: not going to be posting much. Down with sinus infection, and my meds are messing with me badly.

d;gflllllllllllllllllb

Be back in a week.

Dang, sorry to hear that, Peng. Hagf in there and hope you get better real quick!

Posted (edited)

Great work @nightmareB4macross

OK! Time for a massive update on current projects, 1/72 Academy F-15 Strike Eagle 🦅 is next up! Oddly this is one of the few 1/72 aircraft I never built as a teenager, not sure why, but anywhoo, this is a fantastic kit from Academy so far. Lightyears past the A-10 kit as far as fit and finish. Even better than the Hornet I think. Modded for gear up and also with resin pilots with crazy looking VR helmets or something, had to use the two pack of pilots for a Mirage 2000. Close enough. Cockpit and pilots finished up this morning and after that main assembly was completed. Other than doing the canopy, (UHHGGG) this one's almost ready for black primer! 

Side project two ✌️.... Tamiya 1/72 F-16. Absolutely one of my favorite planes ever to fly! Never say die! Iron Eagle! Hahaha! This is actually my VERY FIRST ever proper Tamiya model kit, so far fit and finish is absolutely perfect. Slightly fiddley due to the size of the kit, but very very good so far.... More to come.. 

Finally, painting continues on the 1/500 Bandai Yamato, Going super simple with this one, NO primer, just Vallejo Model Air Medium Gunship Grey and Fire Red airbrushed right onto the colored plastic. I'll weather it some later, but this kit is SOO much fun, it's huge and just looks freakin awesome! 

Stay tuned! 

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Edited by derex3592
Posted

More progress on my Eva girl sofubi set. Unfortunately, I cannot do justice to the original character designs by Sadamoto with a paintbrush, but I guess this effort is acceptable. No eyebrows yet and the hair color you see is merely preshading. But I suppose the eyes for Rei and Asuka are done, with the finishing touch being the light pools in their eyes.

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Posted

Setting more parts. Legs are just magnetized to stick together. The landing gear are more than strong enough to hold up the weight of a VF-1 with any armor configuration, and more.image.jpeg.361ada251ec0faf7cf4ea6783c285245.jpeg

Posted (edited)

Having moved into a new home around the holidays I haven’t had my bench up and running quite yet. So much unpacking and house updates to do. Anyway, I have been test fitting some FSS kits while sitting on the couch. Not ideal but you work with what you got. I can’t wait to dial things in and get these painted. 

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Edited by Papa Rat
Spelling
Posted
14 hours ago, pengbuzz said:

 UPDATE: I ended up scrapping the old body for exedore (got the head painted though), and got an LotR Frodo figure (1/6)-

100_1203.JPG.6fca6d1dba7c7d64dd1e782765c6df23.JPG

 

Height and size comparison to Breetai:

100_1204.JPG.f1869c6a93458a6d801dfed7edd51489.JPG

 

Exedore's head just happened to not only be in scale with Breetai's, but Frodo's as well"

100_1205.JPG.69ed71a143d80291d68eec2e818974c7.JPG

 

Thankfully, he'll have shoes (eeeeww!! Hobbit feet!😞

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Installation of new neck joint into body (the old one wouldn't work with Exedore's head):

100_1208.JPG.796ec5480361eff8d9a1b07fdbaafbca.JPG   100_1209.JPG.1cc4ce8cd6ee5db153d8448a761736a2.JPG

 

Size/ height comparison with new head in place (sorry about the outfit!):

100_1212.JPG.0f1827dd8cd1c4b8c01ec9c9774ea4d5.JPG

 

Waist padding (the original waist was waaaaaayyyyy too narrow!):

100_1214.JPG.8182769a03739f40fb9ce7a171f0963f.JPG

 

Basic outfit in progress; still needs work and some "toning down" colorwise:

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Starting to look legitimate here!:

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BTW: can anyone imagine these two belting out "You've lost that lovin' feeling" by the RIghteous Brothers? :D

Stay tuned...

I guess they’re going on an adventure 

Posted
6 hours ago, pengbuzz said:

Enough.

I got garbage about this in another topic from JVMacross, I don't need it here:

I'm done trying to post stuff, just to get crapped on.

Project terminated.

Seriously beginning to rethink my membership on these boards, or even posting online. I'm weary and tired of bull$#1t.

Departing topic.

 

I didn’t mean any offense by the comment. Just a joke about its origin as a Frodo figure . I actually think your work on these figures are beyond my skills and I think they look great personally.

Posted (edited)
15 hours ago, pengbuzz said:

Enough.

I got garbage about this in another topic from JVMacross, I don't need it here:

I'm done trying to post stuff, just to get crapped on.

Project terminated.

Seriously beginning to rethink my membership on these boards, or even posting online. I'm weary and tired of bull$#1t.

Departing topic.

 

Don't stop because of one person's sh!t opinion. There are far more people on this board who appreciate your work, so listen to them and ignore the haters. You do good work Peng, and the other guys were just doing some friendly banter. Keep it up, I realy like seeing what you create.

Thom

Edited by Thom
Posted
15 hours ago, pengbuzz said:

Enough.

I got garbage about this in another topic from JVMacross, I don't need it here:

I'm done trying to post stuff, just to get crapped on.

Project terminated.

Seriously beginning to rethink my membership on these boards, or even posting online. I'm weary and tired of bull$#1t.

Departing topic.

 

You don't have to let someone who gets off on getting under people's skin get away with it. Just block them as many do.

You're quite welcome here, and I'm sure most of us would like you to continue. :)

Posted
On 1/22/2025 at 9:01 PM, nightmareB4macross said:

Setting more parts. Legs are just magnetized to stick together. The landing gear are more than strong enough to hold up the weight of a VF-1 with any armor configuration, and more.image.jpeg.361ada251ec0faf7cf4ea6783c285245.jpeg

What type of cement and plastic did you use for the landing gear bay doors? It looks very solid.

I 'm searching several types of cement for my Legioss and VF1 elintseeker (1/32 scale) DIY.

Posted
11 hours ago, Radioguy said:

You don't have to let someone who gets off on getting under people's skin get away with it. Just block them as many do.

You're quite welcome here, and I'm sure most of us would like you to continue. :)

How do you block someone on here?

Posted
9 hours ago, F18LEGIOSS2 said:

What type of cement and plastic did you use for the landing gear bay doors? It looks very solid.

I 'm searching several types of cement for my Legioss and VF1 elintseeker (1/32 scale) DIY.

I use styrene and Plastuct Weld.

Depending on the application, mm widths will change as needed. For a build like this I usually use 1.5mm down to .5mm. Any thinner is used for detailing or to build up parts that have been cut a bit short. The door, hinge, and retainer are all styrene, no metal pins needed for this.

With the PW I have keep a separate bottle where I add plastic bits and shavings to create goop that acts as a filler and to strengthen joints where gaps are visible. Once thoroughly dry, I can sand the parts smooth. This same concoction will also help you bond styrene to other materials like metals and provide a very solid adhesion. Just be sure to clean and rough the metal surface first.

For the landing gear I pre-shape metal rods or paper clips and envelope them with styrene to provide extra rigidity and solid structures.

Hope this helps.

image.jpeg.88eb69996606c2f67fb7620ee39c1a32.jpeg image.jpeg.598fdecba115bdbc8b811d01b244ee0f.jpegimage.jpeg.80270eaaf92ee5e32bfc6417d843abf4.jpegimage.jpeg.ab1af529996479cf8f809a61bd4a176c.jpegimage.jpeg.56971bdabb69774626e6302bcc5a12ea.jpegimage.jpeg.b842176b1ae646b5893924f5e4da61a2.jpegimage.jpeg.dde9ea6c7ce8f19a0899a2aab394ab08.jpegimage.jpeg.d849ba553e86eecf970f8991d8c24572.jpegimage.jpeg.695e34cd5fd89fb66187155a1190639a.jpegimage.jpeg.f7d8dd68a90b42bc2b77eb23d30ad289.jpegimage.jpeg.6d61a7bbd24d2cdeb61f9c51586da342.jpegimage.jpeg.85f2b80342c29cd7dbcb1ac9c0a004b7.jpegimage.jpeg.2cb05a6b4edff5b3ba0d6f4b23968ca0.jpegimage.jpeg.92eafb56212f178a7c8c62f87c8200d5.jpegimage.jpeg.5deebe7b83b58f8863dc6ed2f89edff8.jpegimage.jpeg.72e021909512ed7b146a2684a2b5eb6c.jpegimage.jpeg.55cdfaba4972bf2fc5671f85220d851a.jpegimage.jpeg.811a158bfa9507c4108a9de93f52e57b.jpegimage.jpeg.7ab6f8e5deb0fb6d80cecf7cf9515dd6.jpegimage.jpeg.ae0985be60abdceb5a442a67a7dc82d0.jpegimage.jpeg.194bfe206a754dde6e83dca2a43f11a6.jpegimage.jpeg.c1522140116f79a0c711eb87275c325b.jpeg

Posted

That looks so darned good it almost brings tears to my eyes! 👏👏😱

Posted

@nightmareB4macross That is BEAUTIFUL engineering and work on those pieces!

@F18LEGIOSS2 If you have Acetone, that is one of the BEST cements for ABS. It is super thin and dries FAST, so watch how you use it if so. - MT

Posted
On 1/26/2025 at 12:48 AM, nightmareB4macross said:

I use styrene and Plastuct Weld.

Depending on the application, mm widths will change as needed. For a build like this I usually use 1.5mm down to .5mm. Any thinner is used for detailing or to build up parts that have been cut a bit short. The door, hinge, and retainer are all styrene, no metal pins needed for this.

With the PW I have keep a separate bottle where I add plastic bits and shavings to create goop that acts as a filler and to strengthen joints where gaps are visible. Once thoroughly dry, I can sand the parts smooth. This same concoction will also help you bond styrene to other materials like metals and provide a very solid adhesion. Just be sure to clean and rough the metal surface first.

For the landing gear I pre-shape metal rods or paper clips and envelope them with styrene to provide extra rigidity and solid structures.

Hope this helps.

image.jpeg.88eb69996606c2f67fb7620ee39c1a32.jpeg image.jpeg.598fdecba115bdbc8b811d01b244ee0f.jpegimage.jpeg.80270eaaf92ee5e32bfc6417d843abf4.jpegimage.jpeg.ab1af529996479cf8f809a61bd4a176c.jpegimage.jpeg.56971bdabb69774626e6302bcc5a12ea.jpegimage.jpeg.b842176b1ae646b5893924f5e4da61a2.jpegimage.jpeg.dde9ea6c7ce8f19a0899a2aab394ab08.jpegimage.jpeg.d849ba553e86eecf970f8991d8c24572.jpegimage.jpeg.695e34cd5fd89fb66187155a1190639a.jpegimage.jpeg.f7d8dd68a90b42bc2b77eb23d30ad289.jpegimage.jpeg.6d61a7bbd24d2cdeb61f9c51586da342.jpegimage.jpeg.85f2b80342c29cd7dbcb1ac9c0a004b7.jpegimage.jpeg.2cb05a6b4edff5b3ba0d6f4b23968ca0.jpegimage.jpeg.92eafb56212f178a7c8c62f87c8200d5.jpegimage.jpeg.5deebe7b83b58f8863dc6ed2f89edff8.jpegimage.jpeg.72e021909512ed7b146a2684a2b5eb6c.jpegimage.jpeg.55cdfaba4972bf2fc5671f85220d851a.jpegimage.jpeg.811a158bfa9507c4108a9de93f52e57b.jpegimage.jpeg.7ab6f8e5deb0fb6d80cecf7cf9515dd6.jpegimage.jpeg.ae0985be60abdceb5a442a67a7dc82d0.jpegimage.jpeg.194bfe206a754dde6e83dca2a43f11a6.jpegimage.jpeg.c1522140116f79a0c711eb87275c325b.jpeg

Wow! Amazing work ♥️

Posted
On 1/26/2025 at 12:48 AM, nightmareB4macross said:

I use styrene and Plastuct Weld.

Depending on the application, mm widths will change as needed. For a build like this I usually use 1.5mm down to .5mm. Any thinner is used for detailing or to build up parts that have been cut a bit short. The door, hinge, and retainer are all styrene, no metal pins needed for this.

With the PW I have keep a separate bottle where I add plastic bits and shavings to create goop that acts as a filler and to strengthen joints where gaps are visible. Once thoroughly dry, I can sand the parts smooth. This same concoction will also help you bond styrene to other materials like metals and provide a very solid adhesion. Just be sure to clean and rough the metal surface first.

For the landing gear I pre-shape metal rods or paper clips and envelope them with styrene to provide extra rigidity and solid structures.

Hope this helps.

image.jpeg.88eb69996606c2f67fb7620ee39c1a32.jpeg image.jpeg.598fdecba115bdbc8b811d01b244ee0f.jpegimage.jpeg.80270eaaf92ee5e32bfc6417d843abf4.jpegimage.jpeg.ab1af529996479cf8f809a61bd4a176c.jpegimage.jpeg.56971bdabb69774626e6302bcc5a12ea.jpegimage.jpeg.b842176b1ae646b5893924f5e4da61a2.jpegimage.jpeg.dde9ea6c7ce8f19a0899a2aab394ab08.jpegimage.jpeg.d849ba553e86eecf970f8991d8c24572.jpegimage.jpeg.695e34cd5fd89fb66187155a1190639a.jpegimage.jpeg.f7d8dd68a90b42bc2b77eb23d30ad289.jpegimage.jpeg.6d61a7bbd24d2cdeb61f9c51586da342.jpegimage.jpeg.85f2b80342c29cd7dbcb1ac9c0a004b7.jpegimage.jpeg.2cb05a6b4edff5b3ba0d6f4b23968ca0.jpegimage.jpeg.92eafb56212f178a7c8c62f87c8200d5.jpegimage.jpeg.5deebe7b83b58f8863dc6ed2f89edff8.jpegimage.jpeg.72e021909512ed7b146a2684a2b5eb6c.jpegimage.jpeg.55cdfaba4972bf2fc5671f85220d851a.jpegimage.jpeg.811a158bfa9507c4108a9de93f52e57b.jpegimage.jpeg.7ab6f8e5deb0fb6d80cecf7cf9515dd6.jpegimage.jpeg.ae0985be60abdceb5a442a67a7dc82d0.jpegimage.jpeg.194bfe206a754dde6e83dca2a43f11a6.jpegimage.jpeg.c1522140116f79a0c711eb87275c325b.jpeg

Haven't been on this particular thread in a long time. Your project is awesome @nightmareB4macross , great job :good:

Posted

v3N9CYcpJn7DEaCFBQEW7G5ZJUr3gs6md3ZdqX2N4WM3-rcVbGGmQq8D_qrrN32RfUelDBD_9ydmD7Y=s640-rw-nd-v1

I've dusted off my old, abandoned Klingon K'Tinga kit after I gave up on it because the photoetch and the bad instructions screwed me up. So many mishaps with this, and it's mostly the fault of how badly the photoetch fits over the plastic. The PE band that goes across the bulb is NOT the same size as the plastic pieces its supposed to cover. I really wish I had not bothered with it. First of all, the instructions have some of the parts numbers switched or just plain wrong. Secondly, I guess I'm just used to building Japanese model kits because I am not trained in having to read a friggin' PARAGRAPH detailing the assembly when simple pictures could just suffice (as Japanese kit makers are capable of doing). 

I started this in December 2018 and I rage quit this project the next year. It's been in this Hasegawa F-14 Tomcat box, collecting dust on the floor for several years. I want my revenge.

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