Podtastic Posted July 10, 2017 Posted July 10, 2017 3 hours ago, derex3592 said: wow! I don't know what it is, but great paint job!!! I don't know about it being sad, but Nausicaa is one of the best 80's anime movies IMO. Its worth watching. Has a nice music sound track as well of which "Awakening the God Warrior" or " Resurrection of the God Warrior" was my fave. Quote
Xigfrid Posted July 11, 2017 Posted July 11, 2017 My drying bench, this metallic blue is gorgeous, but my paint job is meh... and I just keep forgetting to let the gloss coat dry for at least 24h before assembly. Luckily the paint chips are small and in the insides. The VF-1x++ also got some gunmetal accents on the wings and nose to complete the look. It holds well the gunpods for a speed racer Quote
arbit Posted July 12, 2017 Posted July 12, 2017 14 hours ago, Xigfrid said: My drying bench, this metallic blue is gorgeous, but my paint job is meh... and I just keep forgetting to let the gloss coat dry for at least 24h before assembly. Luckily the paint chips are small and in the insides. I think its the texture of your 3D printing that is giving paint issues. We need a solution for that. I am not good at such fine sanding. Quote
chyll2 Posted July 12, 2017 Posted July 12, 2017 When I did the VF-1X++ head unit by kurisma, it was printed in FUD and Still have to do sand/prime cycle a lot (wet sand after the first few heavy sanding) until I was satisfied with the finish. I painted it with AS tamiya spray can which dry to satin or matte finish and there are still some area that gets highlighted. I agree with Arbit, what makes that paintjob meh are the lines produced by the process of 3D printing. Quote
Xigfrid Posted July 12, 2017 Posted July 12, 2017 Probably using metallic paint is less forgiving than glossy or matte ones. But yes, there are issues with either or both print lines and laziness. Quote
derex3592 Posted July 12, 2017 Posted July 12, 2017 Well... since my last massive failure with my AT-AT.. grrr..... and getting the fiancé moved in and alllll that that entails, my model time lately has been exactly zero, however!, I had a few minutes the other day to start decals on my low-viz 31...I don't really know where I'm going with this, just kind of having fun and not caring... Quote
Xigfrid Posted July 12, 2017 Posted July 12, 2017 I am happy for you to hear that you had less time for your hobby, sad for us since the projects will go slower, but enjoy your time! Quote
arbit Posted July 12, 2017 Posted July 12, 2017 Derex, Nice clean finish. Looks ready for the wash. I guess that wont be transforming ever again. Quote
derex3592 Posted July 13, 2017 Posted July 13, 2017 (edited) 3 hours ago, arbit said: Derex, Nice clean finish. Looks ready for the wash. I guess that wont be transforming ever again. thanks, yeh, this one will stay in fighter mode, got my Messer 1/60 DX to transform! Looking great Gabe Q! Edited July 13, 2017 by derex3592 Quote
latheboy Posted July 13, 2017 Posted July 13, 2017 So this is what I'm working on, I need some help with the final color though .. I know its white but Is it an off white or something? Quote
electric indigo Posted July 13, 2017 Posted July 13, 2017 I think there's less discussion than on the hull color of the TOS Enterprise, so plain white will do (though I'm no authority on that matter). - Updating the Viggen cockpit Quote
pengbuzz Posted July 14, 2017 Posted July 14, 2017 (edited) My latest project: Monogram's 1/48 F-16- Yeah, it doesn't transform. But I wanted something a bit simpler after the SDF-1 and the Zentraedi battleship, and this was a bit of "mindless fun", if you will. I messed up the "USAF" on the top right wing and had to stencil the decal back in by hand (that was a literal pain!). Everything on the paint job before decals was hand-brushed, so it looks...well... streaky (not to mention a light wash that decided to be stubborn in it's removal phase!). At least it isn't brown... Edited July 14, 2017 by pengbuzz Quote
latheboy Posted July 14, 2017 Posted July 14, 2017 On 13/07/2017 at 9:07 PM, electric indigo said: I think there's less discussion than on the hull color of the TOS Enterprise, so plain white will do (though I'm no authority on that matter). - Updating the Viggen cockpit Seeing as you where the only person who answered me I will take your advice and blame you if its wrong Thanks Quote
Nyankodevice Posted July 15, 2017 Posted July 15, 2017 On 7/13/2017 at 5:12 AM, latheboy said: So this is what I'm working on, I need some help with the final color though .. I know its white but Is it an off white or something? Just plain white will do Quote
Salamander Posted July 15, 2017 Posted July 15, 2017 (edited) On 14/07/2017 at 10:35 AM, pengbuzz said: My latest project: Monogram's 1/48 F-16- Everything on the paint job before decals was hand-brushed, so it looks...well... streaky (not to mention a light wash that decided to be stubborn in it's removal phase!). Red (and yellow) are notoriously hard to get right when handbrushing them...even with a backing coat. I think it looks quite good. Edited July 15, 2017 by Salamander Quote
arbit Posted July 15, 2017 Posted July 15, 2017 After some paint mishaps, finally the fun part. Quote
Convectuoso Posted July 15, 2017 Posted July 15, 2017 28 minutes ago, arbit said: After some paint mishaps, finally the fun part. That looks great! Quote
Xigfrid Posted July 16, 2017 Posted July 16, 2017 Looking great arbit! @pengbuzz did you handbrush the white also? Because if I were you I would have used the white primer and keep it as is Quote
derex3592 Posted July 16, 2017 Posted July 16, 2017 panel line wash going down on the 31 today...nice SAFE Flory's... LOL! Quote
arbit Posted July 16, 2017 Posted July 16, 2017 1 hour ago, derex3592 said: panel line wash going down on the 31 today...nice SAFE Flory's... LOL! Gettin dirty! Really nice scheme. Quote
Salamander Posted July 16, 2017 Posted July 16, 2017 Base drybrushing finished + layer of Tamiya Smoke in guise of clearcoat before washes + missiles and harpoons inserted: Quote
arbit Posted July 16, 2017 Posted July 16, 2017 (edited) 15 minutes ago, Salamander said: Base drybrushing finished + layer of Tamiya Smoke in guise of clearcoat before washes + missiles and harpoons inserted: Wash look great. How could you harpoon the Ohmu? Try some metallic dry brushing on all the edges of the scales, bronze and steel and brass. Of course I would put some leds in the eye holes Edited July 16, 2017 by arbit Quote
Nyankodevice Posted July 16, 2017 Posted July 16, 2017 Nausicaä needs more love.... organic Macross cannon lolz Quote
arbit Posted July 16, 2017 Posted July 16, 2017 That's Anno's scene with the melting god warrior. Now, did he work on DYRL before or after Nausicaa? Quote
Salamander Posted July 17, 2017 Posted July 17, 2017 Projectiles painted, blood added, washes done, eye socket masking removed, eyes in place: The camera flash brings out the aluminium background I used on the eye sockets, which combines nicely with how I painted the eye domes (clear orange + clear smoke light blue on the inside, clear blue on the outside). I's all a bit darker in normal light. I'm pretty psyched with how the eyes turned out - they look real. The different sized pupils and color differences are not a problem; the kit replicates the scene where Nausicaa's clothes are soiled by the dying Ohmu's blood after she calmed it down (eyes change from red to blue), and any creature with eyes with pupils will display uneven pupil sizes when dying. So this is more realistic. (It's actually a bit strange Bandai chose to make the eyes similar to those found on vertebrates, considering the Ohmu's decidedly arthropod looks...) Then I added the mouth tentacles: Now to try arbit's suggestion for the metallic drybrushing... Quote
arbit Posted July 17, 2017 Posted July 17, 2017 (edited) 2 hours ago, Salamander said: Now to try arbit's suggestion for the metallic drybrushing... Maybe Gunmetal? And some sand? I would try the underside first and see how it looks. Looking fantastic! Really pops. Edited July 17, 2017 by arbit Quote
Xigfrid Posted July 17, 2017 Posted July 17, 2017 Your eyes are nice, and I know how difficult it is to paint clear parts from behind: this is only at the end, when you seal everything with the metallic coat that will act as a mirror for the previous layers that you know if you have failed or not. Quote
pengbuzz Posted July 18, 2017 Posted July 18, 2017 (edited) Working on a "rescue" model: an F-14 Tomcat in 1/72 scale: Well, while stripping it down to soak in oven cleaner and prepping to make new decals, the canopy decided it was going to shatter on me, front windshield and all. Great. And I just spent my budget on micro-sol. >:( So, I'm trying to find a new one (both pieces actually). Meantime, I'm just gonna go ahead and get this stripped down. We'll see what happens from there. Stay tuned folks (I HATE working with clear parts!!!)... Edited July 18, 2017 by pengbuzz Quote
latheboy Posted July 18, 2017 Posted July 18, 2017 Dumb question but what does oven cleaner do? Quote
vincemoto7 Posted July 18, 2017 Posted July 18, 2017 (edited) 57 minutes ago, latheboy said: Dumb question but what does oven cleaner do? Removes the paint. I've heard of people using Pine Sol too but with disastrous results. Edited July 18, 2017 by vincemoto7 Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.