pengbuzz Posted June 18, 2017 Posted June 18, 2017 UPDATE: Some more antennae work- At this point, there isn't really too much more left to do. I'm considering either painting in or trying to sculpt tiny Valkyries out of sprue for Daedalus, and I'm also thinking about a stand or something to display this on that could handle both cruiser and storm attacker modes. That said, all the major work is pretty much done. Here's where we started with this one: And here's where the project currently stands : Stay tuned folks... Quote
arbit Posted June 19, 2017 Posted June 19, 2017 (edited) I have been planning some base construction for a while. I printed this Nadia Blue Water design on a 2mm acrylic sheet at my local office supply store. Good deal! It will be backlit in a gold frame for the base. Edited June 19, 2017 by arbit Quote
anubis20 Posted June 19, 2017 Posted June 19, 2017 I started this kit about a year ago, and royally screwed up the top coat of future on the wings i laid it on too thick and it pooled. Thinking it was ruined i threw it in the box and I almost threw it out a few times. Decided to look into ways to remove future without ruining the paint job and it turns out that windex will do that. Just let it soak in windex for 30 mins and the future washes right off That revived this build, my plan was to have it done by the time the DX came out but now I can hopefully have it done before the DX 31C comes out Quote
anubis20 Posted June 19, 2017 Posted June 19, 2017 22 minutes ago, derex3592 said: Looking great so far! Nice save! Thanks buddy! Goal is to have the arms done by this weekend Quote
arbit Posted June 19, 2017 Posted June 19, 2017 4 hours ago, derex3592 said: Looking great so far! Nice save! Thats what I was going to say. In modeling we have skill moves, lucky shots, and nice saves! Quote
pengbuzz Posted June 19, 2017 Posted June 19, 2017 7 hours ago, anubis20 said: I started this kit about a year ago, and royally screwed up the top coat of future on the wings i laid it on too thick and it pooled. Thinking it was ruined i threw it in the box and I almost threw it out a few times. Decided to look into ways to remove future without ruining the paint job and it turns out that windex will do that. Just let it soak in windex for 30 mins and the future washes right off That revived this build, my plan was to have it done by the time the DX came out but now I can hopefully have it done before the DX 31C comes out Looking really sharp there! Nice save! Quote
pengbuzz Posted June 19, 2017 Posted June 19, 2017 On 6/17/2017 at 6:11 AM, arbit said: Really liking how this is coming out, Arbit! The brown is a good contrast against that blue/purple/grey, and your paintwork looks very clean. I'm looking forward to seeing your progress on this one. Quote
electric indigo Posted June 19, 2017 Posted June 19, 2017 Slowly getting to the next stage in Mortar Headd construction Quote
Xigfrid Posted June 19, 2017 Posted June 19, 2017 Time is rare here, but I could have some for the Octo, Focusing on the main body before going with the legs... A lot of anime magic everywhere in this Octo! Quote
pengbuzz Posted June 19, 2017 Posted June 19, 2017 UPDATE: okay, I got a bit ambitious... I saw that the 1/4000 Hasegawa TV version had tiny planes on it, and thought "well, let's see how that would look." So, I cut some simple valks out of styrene and painted them up a bit and glued them into place. I also tried to use paint to represent tow vehicles for the planes and people on the ship. The effectiveness of it may not be what I was hoping for, but a bare flight deck bothered me. On that note, it also bothered me that the ship looked too "clean" of detail, so I did something a bit daring and found the old Takatoku sticker sheets online and the placement instructions and replicated in large part the details from that. I plan on doing a few washes and drybrushing to kill down the garishness, then some touch-up and clean up on some of the work that smeared. Well, at least it ain't boring anymore,,, Stay tuned folks... Quote
Thom Posted June 19, 2017 Posted June 19, 2017 9 hours ago, anubis20 said: I started this kit about a year ago, and royally screwed up the top coat of future on the wings i laid it on too thick and it pooled. Thinking it was ruined i threw it in the box and I almost threw it out a few times. Decided to look into ways to remove future without ruining the paint job and it turns out that windex will do that. Just let it soak in windex for 30 mins and the future washes right off That revived this build, my plan was to have it done by the time the DX came out but now I can hopefully have it done before the DX 31C comes out As previously stated by many, nice save! Just goes to show that old builds shouldn't be thrown out, they should just await their appointed time. 1 hour ago, pengbuzz said: UPDATE: okay, I got a bit ambitious... I saw that the 1/4000 Hasegawa TV version had tiny planes on it, and thought "well, let's see how that would look." So, I cut some simple valks out of styrene and painted them up a bit and glued them into place. I also tried to use paint to represent tow vehicles for the planes and people on the ship. The effectiveness of it may not be what I was hoping for, but a bare flight deck bothered me. On that note, it also bothered me that the ship looked too "clean" of detail, so I did something a bit daring and found the old Takatoku sticker sheets online and the placement instructions and replicated in large part the details from that. I plan on doing a few washes and drybrushing to kill down the garishness, then some touch-up and clean up on some of the work that smeared. Well, at least it ain't boring anymore,,, Stay tuned folks... The Macross is looking good, Peng. Those tiny details are hard to do at this scale, so it's great you're doing it. Quote
Xigfrid Posted June 19, 2017 Posted June 19, 2017 Pengbuzz if you can paint these little planes with the glow in the dark, they will pop nicely! Quote
Nyankodevice Posted June 20, 2017 Posted June 20, 2017 looks good all of ya! currently on my workbench!: Quote
arbit Posted June 21, 2017 Posted June 21, 2017 (edited) On 6/21/2017 at 0:41 AM, Nyankodevice said: looks good all of ya! currently on my workbench!: What are those two? YF19? and what? On 6/20/2017 at 0:00 AM, electric indigo said: Slowly getting to the next stage in Mortar Headd construction Which mortar head kit is that? Edited June 22, 2017 by arbit Quote
electric indigo Posted June 21, 2017 Posted June 21, 2017 The thruster block on the nose bothers me a bit, but your CAD modeling is awesome. 3 hours ago, arbit said: Which mortar head kit is that? It's the Volks 1/100 LED Mirage from their fixed-pose Super Spirit Series. The first FSS kit I bought, way back in 1994. Quote
pengbuzz Posted June 21, 2017 Posted June 21, 2017 1 hour ago, Xigfrid said: Looking really smooth there Xigfrid!! Just loving how this is progressing! Quote
pengbuzz Posted June 22, 2017 Posted June 22, 2017 Meantime folks, I'm taking a break from the SDF-1 to build a first: a Zentraedi battleship. In this case, it's the Thurvel-Salan Class Battleship: There's a specific reason I'm doing this one, and for folks who know the episodes well, you'll get why I'm doing this one. Here is the ship so far: Needs some refinement still and some detailing... but not bad for 2 hours work. Stay tuned... Quote
Xigfrid Posted June 22, 2017 Posted June 22, 2017 Thank you ! @electric indigo you get use to it once installed @pengbuzz is this in scale with your SDF-1? Quote
pengbuzz Posted June 22, 2017 Posted June 22, 2017 No; it's only half-scale to it. But it should work for Photoshop well enough... Quote
505thAirborne Posted June 22, 2017 Posted June 22, 2017 Hey guys, I have a question for you Decal masters, I'm just about finished with restoring these WWII German helmets for a customer. Normally the decals I use easily apply with little to no issue. However my customer sent me some very specific (very pricey) decals and they will not stick or stay on. I've had terrible luck using Clear-coat over the years, some times it melts the decals. Any ideas or tips for sealing deals to steel? I'd definitely appreciate it. Quote
pengbuzz Posted June 22, 2017 Posted June 22, 2017 (edited) Uh, yeah: I work quick... I just need to do some more paintwork and stuff over the basics here. Edited June 22, 2017 by pengbuzz Quote
big F Posted June 22, 2017 Posted June 22, 2017 12 hours ago, pengbuzz said: Meantime folks, I'm taking a break from the SDF-1 to build a first: a Zentraedi battleship. In this case, it's the Thurvel-Salan Class Battleship: There's a specific reason I'm doing this one, and for folks who know the episodes well, you'll get why I'm doing this one. Here is the ship so far: Needs some refinement still and some detailing... but not bad for 2 hours work. Stay tuned... Still looks better than most of the previous kits that have been Officially released. just paint it pea green and your done. Quote
Thom Posted June 22, 2017 Posted June 22, 2017 4 hours ago, pengbuzz said: Uh, yeah: I work quick... I just need to do some more paintwork and stuff over the basics here. Nice work Pengbuzz! Are we about to see a Daedalus Attack?! Quote
pengbuzz Posted June 22, 2017 Posted June 22, 2017 7 hours ago, Thom said: Nice work Pengbuzz! Are we about to see a Daedalus Attack?! To answer your question Thom: Right now, I deliberately over-coated my previous work with green to kill down the detail; the marker should "bleed through" slightly for a "pre-shading" effect, while I do another layer of panels over it. Quote
arbit Posted June 23, 2017 Posted June 23, 2017 I've got some figure painting to do. My first time. I think I will airbrush and hand brush details. Can anyone recommend good How-To videos to deal with these? Quote
pengbuzz Posted June 23, 2017 Posted June 23, 2017 (edited) 54 minutes ago, arbit said: I've got some figure painting to do. My first time. I think I will airbrush and hand brush details. Can anyone recommend good How-To videos to deal with these? Try this series by "Those Gundam Guys": https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Anime+Resin+Figure+Building+those+gundam+guys Edited June 23, 2017 by pengbuzz Quote
Lt. Z0mBe Posted June 23, 2017 Posted June 23, 2017 On 6/22/2017 at 0:35 AM, 505thAirborne said: Hey guys, I have a question for you Decal masters, I'm just about finished with restoring these WWII German helmets for a customer. Normally the decals I use easily apply with little to no issue. However my customer sent me some very specific (very pricey) decals and they will not stick or stay on. I've had terrible luck using Clear-coat over the years, some times it melts the decals. Any ideas or tips for sealing deals to steel? I'd definitely appreciate it. 1.) Lay down Future coat. Allow it to cure. If they are self-sticking decals (Adhesive-backed), proceed to step 5.) 2.) Apply decal. If they are the type of decals used on models (water-slide), add just a drop of Future where the decal will go. This will "suck" the decal down into the Future-coated rough steel. 3.) Assuming they are water slide, immediately after placing the decal wick away the excess Future and water with the torn edge of a paper towel. Lint free is best. Again, use the torn-edge of the paper towel for the best wicking. 4.) Immediately after wicking away the excess, press any large bubbles out. You can leave tiny ones alone as they Future-on-Future action will take care of them. 5.) Seal with Future. If you need a matte coat, seal with airbrushed acrylic matte coat. Don't use that Dullcote garbage as it will absolutely yellow over time, sunlight or not. I hope this helps. Kenny Quote
505thAirborne Posted June 23, 2017 Posted June 23, 2017 9 minutes ago, Lt. Z0mBe said: 1.) Lay down Future coat. Allow it to cure. If they are self-sticking decals (Adhesive-backed), proceed to step 5.) 2.) Apply decal. If they are the type of decals used on models (water-slide), add just a drop of Future where the decal will go. This will "suck" the decal down into the Future-coated rough steel. 3.) Assuming they are water slide, immediately after placing the decal wick away the excess Future and water with the torn edge of a paper towel. Lint free is best. Again, use the torn-edge of the paper towel for the best wicking. 4.) Immediately after wicking away the excess, press any large bubbles out. You can leave tiny ones alone as they Future-on-Future action will take care of them. 5.) Seal with Future. If you need a matte coat, seal with airbrushed acrylic matte coat. Don't use that Dullcote garbage as it will absolutely yellow over time, sunlight or not. I hope this helps. Kenny Hi Kenny, a million thank you's!! And yes these are the water slide type decals. I'm going to follow your instructions very carefully! I've always wondered how well Future works for decals, I'm going to find out very shortly! Quote
Lt. Z0mBe Posted June 23, 2017 Posted June 23, 2017 3 hours ago, Lt. Z0mBe said: 1.) Lay down Future coat. Allow it to cure. If they are self-sticking decals (Adhesive-backed), proceed to step 5.) 2.) Apply decal. If they are the type of decals used on models (water-slide), add just a drop of Future where the decal will go. This will "suck" the decal down into the Future-coated rough steel. 3.) Assuming they are water slide, immediately after placing the decal wick away the excess Future and water with the torn edge of a paper towel. Lint free is best. Again, use the torn-edge of the paper towel for the best wicking. 4.) Immediately after wicking away the excess, press any large bubbles out. You can leave tiny ones alone as they Future-on-Future action will take care of them. 5.) Seal with Future. If you need a matte coat, seal with airbrushed acrylic matte coat. Don't use that Dullcote garbage as it will absolutely yellow over time, sunlight or not. I hope this helps. Kenny Here's my unabridged version of working with water-slide decals from many years ago (in case you're uninitiated): The key to decals, in my experience, is consistency in approach. You get in a "rhythm" that way 1.) Glosscoat with Future floorpolish. 2.) Make your water a milky white mixture of white glue and water. You'll want the "just rinsed cereal bowl in the sink" look. 3.) Have a jar of Future and your milkywater standing by, along with two soft paint brushes, a paper towel with a torn edge, and a clean towel. 4.) Dip the decal in the water/glue mixture for 10-15 seconds. Place it on a towel. 5.) Allow the decal to moisten for at least two minutes. Don't touch the decal. 6.) I said "Don't touch the decal." 7.) After a full two minutes, touch the edge of the decal with a paint brush, and try to gently push it along. I said "Don't touch it." You're wanting it to get to the point where it floats off the backing with the slightest pressure. You can dunk it again - hold with tweezers - or just place a drop of the milky water on it if it's softening fast enough. 8.) Once the decal is all "loosy goosy," paint just a little bit of Future with one brush and a couple of drops of the milky water with the other brush on the model where the decal is to go. 9.) Hold the decal up to the model with tweezers, and slide it off the backing using the brush you just used for the glue. 10.) Smooth the decal out and position it with the brush; for large decals, I use a moist cotton swab. Work quickly, you've got about three minutes with the Future. 11.) Don't touch the decal! Touch the torn edge of the paper towel to the edge of the decal and wick away the excess Future and water. 12.)I said "Don't touch the decal!" Allow it to dry. It may crinkle a bit as it dries. That's okay. It will smooth out. Some large decals may have a bubble or wrinkle that hangs around. No big deal. Poke a hole with a straight pin and brush a bit of Future there. This technique lets the Future suck the decals down onto...more Future. You'll have little trouble with panel lines any more. Additionally, there's something about the Future that seems to act as a bit of a decal softener by proxy. I'm not sure if it's due to the decals truly being softened or the existing Future glosscoat being softened during the application. I hope this helps. Quote
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