derex3592 Posted March 8, 2017 Posted March 8, 2017 hahahahaa!!! "a quick and fast model"...and you picked a tiny lighted Falcon?! I admire your moxie sir!!! Quote
derex3592 Posted March 9, 2017 Posted March 9, 2017 Soooo.. my brand new Tie Striker came missing a freakin front laser cannon.. come on Bandai.. FFS... uhhhgggg, bad enough that I lost one on the Tie Interceptor, now this. Not a good run on Imperial fighters over here... LOL Quote
arbit Posted March 9, 2017 Posted March 9, 2017 16 hours ago, derex3592 said: hahahahaa!!! "a quick and fast model"...and you picked a tiny lighted Falcon?! I admire your moxie sir!!! I'm partial to lighting because my paint skills aren't what I want them to be. But if you combine an artist with lighting, killer combo! Quote
electric indigo Posted March 9, 2017 Posted March 9, 2017 More for my 1/72 Air Force. I need to re-shoot this with more depth of field for a proper composite. Quote
Kylwell Posted March 9, 2017 Posted March 9, 2017 6 minutes ago, electric indigo said: More for my 1/72 Air Force. I need to re-shoot this with more depth of field for a proper composite. You can also look into focus stacking software. Makes for really sharp images of miniatures. Quote
derex3592 Posted March 10, 2017 Posted March 10, 2017 Tie Striker is coming along, I'm doing a "work week" build on this one... an hour early in the morning before work and an hour after work.. see if that helps my completion ratio a bit.. before the new wife to be moves in in June... LOL. Tamiya TS32 Haze Grey decanted and airbrushed for main body and wings, flat black XF-1 for the solar panels. Quote
Big s Posted March 10, 2017 Posted March 10, 2017 (edited) Are you gonna recast the laser cannon thats missing derex? It looks like it would be identical to the one you do have. Edited March 10, 2017 by Big s Quote
derex3592 Posted March 10, 2017 Posted March 10, 2017 It's such a microscopic part, I don't know what I'm gonna do, might look through my old extra pars box and see what I can come up with. Don't know how to recast and don't wanna spend time dealing with such a tiny detail really. Quote
Kelsain Posted March 10, 2017 Posted March 10, 2017 Would it be workable to use the laser from the Striker to replace the missing one for the Interceptor? Or vise-versa? Then substitute a pair of something else similar on the other fighter? In my head, all OT TIE cannons are the same, but I don't actually know if this is true... Quote
Chas Posted March 10, 2017 Posted March 10, 2017 Do yourself a favour and Google 'recasting with epoxy putty'. For a small part like that it is the way I would go - quick, easy, no exotic ($$) material needed, easy to do over and over again, and results are quite usable. Quote
Xigfrid Posted March 10, 2017 Posted March 10, 2017 On 01/02/2017 at 5:19 AM, chyll2 said: @Xigfrid just go do the complete upgrade set. WIP picure A lot of issues with attachments considering the VF1 should transform. I also ordered the Visual Books when I found that Kuna models were not really accurate to the VF X++ line art. Quote
derex3592 Posted March 10, 2017 Posted March 10, 2017 2 hours ago, Kelsain said: Would it be workable to use the laser from the Striker to replace the missing one for the Interceptor? Or vise-versa? Then substitute a pair of something else similar on the other fighter? In my head, all OT TIE cannons are the same, but I don't actually know if this is true... It's not true concerning the two that I have lost/missing..sadly. Quote
wmkjr Posted March 10, 2017 Posted March 10, 2017 (edited) 1 hour ago, Xigfrid said: WIP picure A lot of issues with attachments considering the VF1 should transform. I also ordered the Visual Books when I found that Kuna models were not really accurate to the VF X++ line art. NIce! I think KuWa's 1/72 VF-1X++ is closer to the line art and the 1/60 one is supposed to be a precursor or something if I recall. Edited March 10, 2017 by wmkjr Quote
derex3592 Posted March 10, 2017 Posted March 10, 2017 2 hours ago, Chas said: Do yourself a favour and Google 'recasting with epoxy putty'. For a small part like that it is the way I would go - quick, easy, no exotic ($$) material needed, easy to do over and over again, and results are quite usable. OK, so maybe I'm a sucker for "hey that looks fairly easy on Youtube!"...hahaha...but yeh, that might actually work great for both my tiny missing parts, next time I'm at the good Hobby Shop, I'll see what kind of epoxy putty they have and give it a shot..I'm sure there will be some trial and error, so I'll post my test runs on here so everyone can have a good laugh! Quote
arbit Posted March 10, 2017 Posted March 10, 2017 16 minutes ago, derex3592 said: OK, so maybe I'm a sucker for "hey that looks fairly easy on Youtube!"...hahaha...but yeh, that might actually work great for both my tiny missing parts, next time I'm at the good Hobby Shop, I'll see what kind of epoxy putty they have and give it a shot..I'm sure there will be some trial and error, so I'll post my test runs on here so everyone can have a good laugh! Chas, I find its hard to avoid bubbles in the cast with small parts. Whats the solution? Quote
Chas Posted March 10, 2017 Posted March 10, 2017 (edited) I've cast the hands and individual face parts from various Gundam kits and lots of small pieces from all sorts of other stuff that ad broken off, never really had an issue with air bubbles. I just pack the putty in real tight. Ohh, and DRex I just use miliput as it's cheap and available where I am. No need for anything super special here. Here is a tutorial (where I first learned how to do this) from a Malasian modelling forum PLAMO. All props to the original author http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=38 Edited March 10, 2017 by Chas Quote
derex3592 Posted March 10, 2017 Posted March 10, 2017 Is this the stuff I want Chas? https://www.amazon.com/Milliput-Superfine-2-Part-Hardening-Putty/dp/B002CNEWAM Quote
derex3592 Posted March 10, 2017 Posted March 10, 2017 (edited) cool. ...of course the superfine is like a two week ship time, would the standard stuff be good enough? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OBBTMW/ref=pd_luc_rh_bxgy_01_04_t_img_lh?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Edited March 10, 2017 by derex3592 Quote
Chas Posted March 10, 2017 Posted March 10, 2017 Yeah, the standard is what I use. It works well. Quote
Kelsain Posted March 10, 2017 Posted March 10, 2017 Ooh, that's a nifty idea. Think it would work with melted beam-saber plastic? Quote
Chas Posted March 10, 2017 Posted March 10, 2017 Not sure what you mean. The recast part should look like the part that the mould was made from. If you make a mould from a melted beam saber then the recast part will look like a melted beam saber - except it will be made of epoxy putty, not soft, translucent, coloured plastic. Quote
MechTech Posted March 11, 2017 Posted March 11, 2017 Milliput is GREAT stuff! Very strong structurally too! - MT Quote
Chas Posted March 11, 2017 Posted March 11, 2017 (edited) 7 hours ago, arbit said: Chas, I find its hard to avoid bubbles in the cast with small parts. Whats the solution? Just realized that you may be referring to a 'Short-Shot' where there is part of the mould that does not get filled (in this case with putty) due to air being trapped (usually in a corner etc...) If that is indeed what you mean the solution is to create a path for the air to escape - a 'vent'. I usually poke a hole in the offending area such that the air can escape through to the topside, or Bottom of the mould. This way when you pop your moulding putty in and close the mould- pressing firmly you will know that area is filled when you see the putty coming out of the vent. Edited March 11, 2017 by Chas Quote
wm cheng Posted March 11, 2017 Posted March 11, 2017 On 3/9/2017 at 0:04 PM, electric indigo said: More for my 1/72 Air Force. I need to re-shoot this with more depth of field for a proper composite. Beautiful flawless finish!!! Looks great, I didn't know China had the Eurofighter? What kit is that BTW? I love all the rivet details especially at 1/72 scale! Quote
Big s Posted March 11, 2017 Posted March 11, 2017 I usually use milliput on filling large areas and sea line gaps, but I never thought about recasting with it. I'm gonna have to give that a shot. Quote
arbit Posted March 11, 2017 Posted March 11, 2017 7 hours ago, Chas said: Just realized that you may be referring to a 'Short-Shot' where there is part of the mould that does not get filled (in this case with putty) due to air being trapped (usually in a corner etc...) If that is indeed what you mean the solution is to create a path for the air to escape - a 'vent'. I usually poke a hole in the offending area such that the air can escape through to the topside, or Bottom of the mould. This way when you pop your moulding putty in and close the mould- pressing firmly you will know that area is filled when you see the putty coming out of the vent. Glad we are having this discussion! I guess the Miliput is less prone to bubbles. I have been using Alumilite Clear Resin. Seems to shrink as it dries in addition to bubbles throughout, even though I leave several air valves. Drives me crazy. Quote
Chas Posted March 11, 2017 Posted March 11, 2017 @arbit are you talking about resin casting? I wouldn't recommend using liquid resin in an epoxy putty mould. If you are asking about bubbles in liquid resin used in silicone moulds that is very different process. Wit liquid resin in a silicone mould you would need to use a vacuum chamber (pressure pot) of some sort to force the air out of the resin. Epoxy Putty casting is a different process that is good for recreating small parts in a 'quick and dirty' fashion, but I wouldn't use it for large parts or a whole kit. Quote
arbit Posted March 11, 2017 Posted March 11, 2017 1 hour ago, Chas said: @arbit are you talking about resin casting? I wouldn't recommend using liquid resin in an epoxy putty mould. If you are asking about bubbles in liquid resin used in silicone moulds that is very different process. Wit liquid resin in a silicone mould you would need to use a vacuum chamber (pressure pot) of some sort to force the air out of the resin. Epoxy Putty casting is a different process that is good for recreating small parts in a 'quick and dirty' fashion, but I wouldn't use it for large parts or a whole kit. Good to know. Thanks for clarifying the difference. Quote
derex3592 Posted March 11, 2017 Posted March 11, 2017 Tie Striker completed. This kit was slightly more annoying and not as 100% Bandai perfect as other reviews have mentioned. It didn't seem to want to snap together as well in some places. I'll try the epoxy casting thing for the missing laser when I get it in the mail later on this week. Anyways.... back to the SDF-1 after a couple of distractions.... Quote
electric indigo Posted March 11, 2017 Posted March 11, 2017 19 hours ago, wm cheng said: Beautiful flawless finish!!! Looks great, I didn't know China had the Eurofighter? What kit is that BTW? I love all the rivet details especially at 1/72 scale! Thanks, William. The kit is from Trumpeter, excellent fit and parts breakdown. The surface details are a bit strong compared to Hase, but look very good if you dial down the panel wash a bit with overspray. Legend has it that the J-10 was developed from the IAI Lavi. http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10366014 Hobbysearch's price seems a bit high, though, I can get the kit locally for about 27 Euro. Quote
Thom Posted March 11, 2017 Posted March 11, 2017 (edited) Always like to see progress on an SDF! Close for me now... Edited March 11, 2017 by Thom Quote
pengbuzz Posted March 12, 2017 Posted March 12, 2017 4 hours ago, Thom said: Always like to see progress on an SDF! Close for me now... Looking pretty tight on that paint job, Thom! Quote
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