arbit Posted October 31, 2016 Posted October 31, 2016 Had a bit of a setback on the SDF-1 today....tried to take a small shortcut and spray paint the nose gun portion out of the rattle can just to see if the color was going to be right and put it on a bit too thick. Went out to the garage to try to remove it however no one really told me that off-the-shelf lacquer thinner would more or less melt not only the plastic a bit but also the glue that was holding the two parts together and then when I tried to take them apart it basically ripped the plastic not at the seam, patched and puttied as best as possible and re primering, but it is definitely not going to be as good as it would have been. Have I mentioned I FREAKING HATE these old 80s kits??? SMH. Apparently God never intends me to have this kit completed properly. Uuhhhhhhhgggggggg Hmm... That gives me some concern because I was just reading that the best way to thin Tamiya putty is with laquer thinner. Quote
Big s Posted October 31, 2016 Posted October 31, 2016 (edited) Some lacquer thinners and paints can do damage to plastics, but most hobby shop types are safe. If it's a product you haven't used before it's always a good idea to test it on a piece of scrap or sprue. Edited October 31, 2016 by Big s Quote
Xigfrid Posted October 31, 2016 Posted October 31, 2016 NZEOD, what color is this primer? It looks very nice! Does it hold enamel afterwards ? Quote
Kelsain Posted October 31, 2016 Posted October 31, 2016 Who else appreciates the kitchen WIP that goes along with NZEOD's model WIPs? Those counters are teh sex. And an integrated fishtank? It's probably good that my wife doesn't read these forums too... Quote
coronadlux Posted October 31, 2016 Posted October 31, 2016 Brake fluid would remove the paint without damaging the plastic. Quote
NZEOD Posted October 31, 2016 Posted October 31, 2016 (edited) i'll put up a vid after our summer here of what we've been up too... I've wired the house and grounds up with a few tricks and we have a mini mtb track around the grounds and a stream and about 70 lights hidden outside The metallic one? Tamiya Fine Detail Grey Primer spraycan base > Tamiya X-1 gloss black 70/30 thinned > Alclad II Magnesium > Future > Hairspray Edited October 31, 2016 by NZEOD Quote
derex3592 Posted October 31, 2016 Posted October 31, 2016 Yes, after reading up apparently I need to get some Tamiya Lacquer Thinner, it won't melt things...I had used the other stuff on a small something but it was on a newer kit and didn't affect the plastic I don't think. Quote
Xigfrid Posted October 31, 2016 Posted October 31, 2016 "Tamiya Fine Detail Grey Primer spraycan base > Tamiya X-1 gloss black 70/30 thinned > Alclad II Magnesium > Future > Hairspray" Ha thanks! Not as simple as I thought, but the result is very great, it gives a nice touch also with the weathering. Quote
NZEOD Posted October 31, 2016 Posted October 31, 2016 (edited) No it was super simple... no finesse required and all layers down with no sanding and dried within 4 hours - including the future layer. The longest drying time came from the hairspray but thats more because I do that layer out of the hairspray can and not an airbrush... so it floods the model and drips off it requiring dabbing and wicking away the excess on the undersides with a tissue! Not ideal but got lazy and it still seemed to work fine. The primer dries within 20mins, the X-1 likely due to the high thinners content dries within 10mins and the Alclad dries by the time you finish spraying all the parts. Alclad goes on seriously easily with just two light low pressure passes with the airbrush. Different brushes and scrubbers give different wear effects too... run some water, get a Hard and a Medium tooth brush and a nail brush and wet everything and scrub... Medium will give long thin wear on the edges and soft wear patches on the flats, hard will give more chip like wear on the edges and thin scratches on the flats and the nail brush will give deep scratch effects and flakes. Be aware that you will need different brushes for different colours as paint transfer back into the scratches can occur and that looks terrible on light colours. Electric toothbrushes didnt work either. I dremel on the lowest speed can work (i'm going to use one on the decals) but keep the speed super low as you dont want to generate heat and soften the layers. that would just rip them all away down to the plastic. Also remember you must have water on the surface to dissolve the hairspray so use the extension on the dremel and have a holder for the dremel motor unit to keep it away from the water. I'll let you know how well the wearing of the decals to match the paint goes... Making it up as I go. Edited October 31, 2016 by NZEOD Quote
NZEOD Posted November 2, 2016 Posted November 2, 2016 Decals done, now to trash them somehow to match the paint wear underneath Not bad for ancient decals that had yellowed on the sheet! Quote
NZEOD Posted November 2, 2016 Posted November 2, 2016 (edited) one more pin wash as well, then its time to have it step on the bus and crush it! This is the victim... Or this one. I have a couple of these coming for the display Thinking I'm going to have to make a copy of the foot in resin or wood, clamp it and the bus into a vice or come G clamps... slowly heat it up and apply pressure while cutting and snipping certain parts to correctly simulate the roof collapsing under the pods weight. There will be another pod or two joining it running down a crowded city street after a VF-1S so a few things in the street are about to get bent and crushed. Edited November 2, 2016 by NZEOD Quote
spanner Posted November 2, 2016 Posted November 2, 2016 one more pin wash as well, then its time to have it step on the bus and crush it! This is the victim... Or this one. I have a couple of these coming for the display Thinking I'm going to have to make a copy of the foot in resin or wood, clamp it and the bus into a vice or come G clamps... slowly heat it up and apply pressure while cutting and snipping certain parts to correctly simulate the roof collapsing under the pods weight. There will be another pod or two joining it running down a crowded city street after a VF-1S so a few things in the street are about to get bent and crushed. awww cute little buses! funny enough I work for a bus company! hehe! did I mention that I hate buses! Quote
NZEOD Posted November 2, 2016 Posted November 2, 2016 you'll enjoy watching this one be crushed then! Quote
NZEOD Posted November 3, 2016 Posted November 3, 2016 ANNNNDDDDD calling this one DONE! Now on to the next 2! Distressed the decals by going over them with fine brush painted ALCLAD II Magnesium then a final pin wash in Vallejo acrylic base Black Wash ( Used Florys for the first main wash). Quote
NZEOD Posted November 4, 2016 Posted November 4, 2016 Yay!! I get to test the Tomytec Warranty service now.... Nothing quite as gutting as setting up a new VF-31a on a new Carrier deck base, wiring it up to hidden wiring then flicking the switch ANNNNNDDDD...... we see a blue left engine and white right one... WTF??!! Quote
MechTech Posted November 5, 2016 Posted November 5, 2016 Looks cool NZEOD! As much as I like Lupin, the Ultimate Nipako bus will probably show marks from heating up. Then again, that could be a good thing! - MT Quote
NZEOD Posted November 5, 2016 Posted November 5, 2016 yeah I'm thinking the Nipako bus for a better obvious damage effect Quote
derex3592 Posted November 5, 2016 Posted November 5, 2016 Lots of projects goin on this weekend! Quote
slide Posted November 6, 2016 Posted November 6, 2016 Reasonably frustrating... Wow, there's really no hiding that is there? Quote
NZEOD Posted November 6, 2016 Posted November 6, 2016 (edited) Wow, there's really no hiding that is there? nope... Edited November 6, 2016 by NZEOD Quote
NZEOD Posted November 6, 2016 Posted November 6, 2016 (edited) a really old vintage Dragon models air combat series kit. Its only really base coated so far, still working on it between other projects. http://buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/n188199757 http://buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/e193909159 http://buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/t489449435 These are some for sale right now Edited November 6, 2016 by NZEOD Quote
derex3592 Posted November 6, 2016 Posted November 6, 2016 Your engine LEDs may not match NZEOD, however I particularly like that your can of Rockstar matches your counter top...LOOOL Quote
arbit Posted November 6, 2016 Posted November 6, 2016 (edited) How did that happen? Edited November 6, 2016 by arbit Quote
NZEOD Posted November 6, 2016 Posted November 6, 2016 (edited) I had a green stunt bike, a Green supercharged Accord and half my work DPMs used to be Green... weird. So many green things... As to the lights... how it happened? They likely sourced the components from China, the only place where production runs of LEDs could still get mixed up without anyone ever being aware. Edited November 6, 2016 by NZEOD Quote
spanner Posted November 6, 2016 Posted November 6, 2016 nice vehicles! my girlfriend also had a Honda CBR250RR with the very same Tiger bodywork kit but she had it painted up in Transformers Bumblebee colors.. great little bike to ride! revved like a banshee to nearly 20k rpm! just didn't like the color scheme she chose.. And at one point I very nearly bought a CBR400 myself! Quote
NZEOD Posted November 6, 2016 Posted November 6, 2016 (edited) We got that as a work runner but ended up going back up the the 675 and the Aprilia RSV4. Had a BMW SS1000RR for awhile in Townsville but left it when I moved back to NZ. Fun dodging 6pm Roos thats come down to the highways for the warmth! Edited November 6, 2016 by NZEOD Quote
derex3592 Posted November 7, 2016 Posted November 7, 2016 A good day at the model desk today, HMR VF1J panel lined and TomyTec 1/144 Drakken III built! Quote
CHAVAKAISER Posted November 7, 2016 Posted November 7, 2016 painted the yamato vf-1d ensamble kit Quote
mickyg Posted November 7, 2016 Posted November 7, 2016 So very jealous of that VF-1D kit! Looks great all weathered up like that. Quote
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