spanner Posted June 27, 2016 Posted June 27, 2016 Well I think I am going to call this done... the close ups reveal some things I wish were better and I now realize I put the intake warning triangles in the wrong spot but ahh well..... Looks great! I approve! Quote
arbit Posted June 27, 2016 Posted June 27, 2016 That looks awesome! Love Max! Great job! Comparing my Wave Legioss to the Max, I see a lot of design similarities. Maybe same sculptor? Quote
Petrov27 Posted June 27, 2016 Posted June 27, 2016 Could be - not sure on that one but it wouldn't surprise me. I personally love the Wave 1/100 kits so far - absolutely no issues with assembly, I like the break down of parts etc. Wish they did not mould the 1A in flesh color plastic though. Also kinda annoying that they dont sell a stand alone gerwalk kit - you make that from having the battroid and jet kits together. Not terrible but sucks if you want to do a "all modes" display together (you'd need four kits to do it....) Quote
captain america Posted June 27, 2016 Posted June 27, 2016 Well I think I am going to call this done... the close ups reveal some things I wish were better and I now realize I put the intake warning triangles in the wrong spot but ahh well..... Excellent build, congratulations! Such a beautiful color scheme, who in their right mind wouldn't love this? Oh, and a little contribution of my own. Not anime, but definitely worth WATCHing! Quote
GMK Posted June 27, 2016 Posted June 27, 2016 Yep ten points & three thumbs up on your Max. Perfect! Quote
electric indigo Posted June 28, 2016 Posted June 28, 2016 After 22 years, I was able to score this Kaiyodo kit of Yel-Line from Galaxy Fraulein Yuna: Another Grail kit to cross off the list... Quote
Xigfrid Posted June 28, 2016 Posted June 28, 2016 Hey Captain, I kind of like automatic watches but couldn't convince myself to pay more than seikos. Wanna share more about your model? Is it unique or do you plan to make more? Quote
derex3592 Posted June 29, 2016 Posted June 29, 2016 Mock up of it painted.. still not 100% happy with the overall smoothness of the paint, gonna have to work on that. But looking pretty badass so far! Quote
electric indigo Posted June 29, 2016 Posted June 29, 2016 Quite a beast! If you want a shinier surface, you should try a "wetter" paint application. Make just one pass on the part, but have the paint self-level itself (*just before* it will run from the surface or form pools). Let it dry for a day, repeat if more coverage is needed. Quote
captain america Posted June 29, 2016 Posted June 29, 2016 Hey Captain, I kind of like automatic watches but couldn't convince myself to pay more than seikos. Wanna share more about your model? Is it unique or do you plan to make more? Hi Xigfrid, I'm basically starting my own brand of automatics. That hand-made prototype is just the beginning of what I started 2 years ago. I'm aiming for a $3600 USD retail with a full titanium case/buckle and Soprod A10 movement. Just like with my models, my motto is do it right, or don't bother doing it at all-- which, according to my engineers, turned into one of the most complicated watch designs they've ever worked on. You can check-out the Facebook link in my sig, or PM me if you have any questions. Quote
derex3592 Posted June 29, 2016 Posted June 29, 2016 (edited) Quite a beast! If you want a shinier surface, you should try a "wetter" paint application. Make just one pass on the part, but have the paint self-level itself (*just before* it will run from the surface or form pools). Let it dry for a day, repeat if more coverage is needed. I've been using this Rustoleum Paint + Primer Glossy colors for a while now, and it's very difficult to explain why sometimes it lays down perfectly glossy and sometimes more of a semi-gloss or almost satin look when decanted and sprayed through my airbrush. I can't explain it. I have a feeling it has to do with either A. Type of Resin used and or the Shapeways material. --- B. Primer and sanding application, or --- C. The freakin heat and humidity I have to deal with in TX almost year around. OR a combination of all of the above. It's a continuous mystery! Edited June 29, 2016 by derex3592 Quote
Chas Posted June 29, 2016 Posted June 29, 2016 (edited) For good gloss coats you may need to switch to an airbrush with a larger tip size. (likely a small spray-gun). Check these great videos out for more info. Edited June 29, 2016 by Chas Quote
Xigfrid Posted June 30, 2016 Posted June 30, 2016 @Captain, the Soprod A10 is a great choice, I will be looking at your FB now @Derex, that Ghost is looking great already, even without the yellow details and shadowing. Can't wait to see it when finished Quote
Xigfrid Posted July 1, 2016 Posted July 1, 2016 Getting slowly into shape. 340 mm height. The plasma beam canon is 430mm long. It should be something holding it Quote
derex3592 Posted July 2, 2016 Posted July 2, 2016 Today's progrss on Mr. Ghost X9 - Fast Packs assembled and finished, blue sensor eye done and tail engines painted and ready! Quote
Hervé Posted July 3, 2016 Posted July 3, 2016 Not really on the workbench, but arrived yesterday on my stash: Quote
TMBounty_Hunter Posted July 3, 2016 Posted July 3, 2016 Well I think I am going to call this done... the close ups reveal some things I wish were better and I now realize I put the intake warning triangles in the wrong spot but ahh well..... http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj150/petrov27/003_zpsukdspbuh.jpg http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj150/petrov27/004_zpst3wvxndr.jpg http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj150/petrov27/008_zpsforvlbs6.jpg Max VF-1A is best VF-1A Very nice work! Quote
electric indigo Posted July 3, 2016 Posted July 3, 2016 Not really on the workbench, but arrived yesterday on my stash: Good timing! With the recent restoration, there's tons of new reference material available. Quote
Hervé Posted July 4, 2016 Posted July 4, 2016 Good timing! With the recent restoration, there's tons of new reference material available. Isn't it ? https://airandspace.si.edu/collection-objects/model-starship-enterprise-television-show-star-trek Quote
spanner Posted July 4, 2016 Posted July 4, 2016 that TOS Enterprise looks amazing! even if its in bits! Quote
Hervé Posted July 5, 2016 Posted July 5, 2016 Here is my present time building: the 1/60 Vic Viper from the video game Gradius... http://gradius.wikia.com/wiki/Vic_Viper Box art and sprues : Building (a pain in the a..,): Painting: That's all folks ! Quote
derex3592 Posted July 5, 2016 Posted July 5, 2016 WOW! what do you use for the putty that you used for the camo outline??? That's a great idea! Quote
spanner Posted July 5, 2016 Posted July 5, 2016 Here is my present time building: the 1/60 Vic Viper from the video game Gradius... http://gradius.wikia.com/wiki/Vic_Viper Box art and sprues : Building (a pain in the a..,): Painting: That's all folks ! hmmm that Vic Viper looks pretty good! certain parts of it have a very Valkyrie-esque look about them! The cockpit canopy in particular! Don't you think? Love your work on the paint job too! Quote
wm cheng Posted July 5, 2016 Posted July 5, 2016 Good timing! With the recent restoration, there's tons of new reference material available. Yes, I'm catching the bug too with all my Es sitting in my stash... not saying I can actually make any time for it, but its awfully tempting.. Quote
Hervé Posted July 5, 2016 Posted July 5, 2016 WOW! what do you use for the putty that you used for the camo outline??? That's a great idea! Thanks ! I have used "patafix" gum, the french name of the blu-tack: Quote
captain america Posted July 5, 2016 Posted July 5, 2016 Very clever using blue tack as masking, I've done that quite a few times in the past to great effect. Just a heads-up for others looking to try it: make sure not to use plasticine, because it's inherently greasy and can interfere with the paint application. Quote
NZEOD Posted July 6, 2016 Posted July 6, 2016 and keep the blutac away from your cockpit screen decals... I use it to mask off intakes and cockpits once they are done to paint the outside and have pulled up a screen decal before... no going back from that one! Quote
Big s Posted July 6, 2016 Posted July 6, 2016 I've used eraser putty from General. It's a lightly sticky putty artists use for precise erasing, but I tend to use it for masking when I don't feel like cutting tape into precise shapes. Quote
derex3592 Posted July 6, 2016 Posted July 6, 2016 Cool, thanks for the tips! Gonna give this a try eventually on my Hasagawa 1:48 F-22. Quote
derex3592 Posted July 7, 2016 Posted July 7, 2016 (edited) Xigfrid's excellent 1:60 Macross Plus Ghost X9 kit. It was extremely well designed and I had zero problems with it really. I did not use one single drop of any kind of glue. It is all held together with intelligent design and a few tiny screws. Great kit. Painted with rattle can Home Depot/Tamiya lacquer paints. Anyone on the fence, get it! I will post some more pics in a few weeks when I get it on a Yetistand along with the Arcadia 19 and Yamato 21. Last pic is without Fast Packs, which are removable! Edited July 7, 2016 by derex3592 Quote
derex3592 Posted July 7, 2016 Posted July 7, 2016 Thanks! Up next.."The Fett"... taking a break after 3 fairly involved Macross kits..back to some nice easy Star Wars stuff. Quote
Big s Posted July 8, 2016 Posted July 8, 2016 I have one of those Boba Fett kits and 2 sand troopers that I ordered from Hlj just before the embargo. It looks like a fairly simple build and the grey looks like primer gray could work for most of it. Were you going to do any paint chipping on the armor? Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.