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Posted

Is that grey just from dye or did you paint over it as well?

It looks too uniform to be a dye job... looks like primer grey to me. If so, I wonder how well it holds up to transformation.

Posted (edited)

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took the engine intakes from a donor valkyrie since it have two parts that requires masking and another painting.

need tip on how to line up the fuselage cleanly without glue. I alredy sanded down the pegs and it just wont line up (I cant get where the resistance is coming)

Chyll, that seam comes from the spring action of the landing gear, I believe. The toys have that as well and to the best of my knowledge, no glue is used here on "the real thing" right out of the box. Good luck completely getting rid of it as I believe it's a design feature.

To test this, fold up the front gear and the seam should lesson or disappear.

Edited by mickyg
Posted (edited)

Is that grey just from dye or did you paint over it as well?

it is already painted since the dye was not uniform and blotchy. Painted it using AS-11 Medium Sea Gray

edit: yeah, it looks like a primed model as well <_<

Chyll, that seam comes from the spring action of the landing gear, I believe. The toys have that as well and to the best of my knowledge, no glue is used here on "the real thing" right out of the box. Good luck completely getting rid of it as I believe it's a design feature.

To test this, fold up the front gear and the seam should lesson or disappear.

I might try to check the landing gear area again. The seam or gap is there even when the landing gear is folded up.

Edited by chyll2
Posted (edited)

it is already painted since the dye was not uniform and blotchy. Painted it using AS-11 Medium Sea Gray

edit: yeah, it looks like a primed model as well <_<

Once you add stripes and other colored -- or even different grey(s) -- details, panel line it, and put on the decals and/or stickers, that primed look will be displaced by a low-vis, "realistic" military-like appearance.

Edited by mechaninac
Posted

Let us know how what you think of the Iwata...I've been eying one.

Buy it. Definitely buy it. I'm in love with this brush. It paints so well, and it's so easy to clean!

Here's what I got done on the Nirvash today:

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Posted

After some major surgery I could not lift anything for a month (which meant waiting to lift and fix the Daedalus gearbox). So I worked on the Bugeye Recon kit. More in another thread when complete.

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Posted

Well, I prefer gravity-feed brushes, and the bigger the cup, the better. Plus, the HP-CS is very well-reviewed. And what a beauty this brush is. The craftsmanship is apparent in every aspect. I'm in love.

In other news, I got a lot done on the Nirvash. I'm gonna clear coat it with Future tomorrow.

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Mind my shoddy painting skills. I lack patience, practice, and a working left hand.

Posted

I've never had a gravity fed airbrush, but that's the way I wanna go next, and I agree, the bigger the paint cup the better. Question...does the cup have a lid that keeps the paint IN the cup? That's been my biggest problem when using my older brushes when I have to use the little metal cup.

Posted

I've never had a gravity fed airbrush, but that's the way I wanna go next, and I agree, the bigger the paint cup the better. Question...does the cup have a lid that keeps the paint IN the cup? That's been my biggest problem when using my older brushes when I have to use the little metal cup.

Yeah, the cup has a lid. Most gravity-feed brushes have one. Historically, I haven't been keen to using the cap, because my old brush had to run at a high enough pressure that it'd waste a ton of paint and I'd be refilling the cup really often, and the lid just would not come off sometimes. But this Iwata sprays evenly, even at 8psi, so I'm using a lot less paint, and the cap is easy to remove.

I just cannot praise this brush enough, I really really love it.

Posted

here is the current status now of my low viz Strike VF-1A

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Now I want to buy a No Painting VF-1 kit, Looks amazing so far, looking forward to the finished product! B))

Posted

No pictures yet, but currently experimenting with DIY decals. I am experimenting using a photocopier (from the office) since I only want a black or gray VF-1J Stripes (I dont know how to do the imaging using PC). Gray looks really bad from test copies the dots are really visible.

Posted (edited)

No pictures yet, but currently experimenting with DIY decals. I am experimenting using a photocopier (from the office) since I only want a black or gray VF-1J Stripes (I dont know how to do the imaging using PC). Gray looks really bad from test copies the dots are really visible.

The Skull decal on the back was scanned into the computer, then reprinted onto decal paper in gray scale. The eye is recolored with a dab of yellow paint.

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Edited by Thom
Posted

I like it, grey (gray) low viz schemes are much more 'tech' feeling to me, as opposed to the cartoonish hi-viz paint work. I appreciate both, but my preference is towards subtlety.

SchizophrenicMC that turned out nice, 1/100 scale?

Posted (edited)

update before I call it a day.

decals used is a photocopied yamato water slide decals. I was originally aiming for gray but black seems not so bad after all. ;)

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Edited by chyll2
Posted

I like it, grey (gray) low viz schemes are much more 'tech' feeling to me, as opposed to the cartoonish hi-viz paint work. I appreciate both, but my preference is towards subtlety.

SchizophrenicMC that turned out nice, 1/100 scale?

It's non-scale, but if I had to try and pin it to a scale, I'd say it's bigger than 1/72 but smaller than 1/48. Maybe in the 1/60 range. I might try and find a scale person and try and match it, but then I might not. The mecha in Eureka Seven are pretty small. The kit itself is between HG and MG size.

I need to get up off my ass, though, and clear coat it. I have a bad habit of getting paint done at night, cleaning up, going to bed, and never going back for clear.

Posted

If any of you guys are having issues with your decals after printing, the Solvset guys make microfilm coating to fix brittle decals and fix old ones. I had that problem with photocopied ones (I think it's the heat).-MT

Posted

I need to get up off my ass, though, and clear coat it. I have a bad habit of getting paint done at night, cleaning up, going to bed, and never going back for clear.

At least you brought it this far; I am starting to get a second collection of kits, but they are in a half built state.

Posted

update before I call it a day.

decals used is a photocopied yamato water slide decals. I was originally aiming for gray but black seems not so bad after all. ;)

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That looks great! Love the color scheme!

Posted

Count me in as another proud Iwata person.

Here's what I'm currently attempting to finish off:

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Never sat well with me that the DX valks have silver gear and unpainted gear bays. Its even more annoying that the micro-missiles get red seeker heads but the bodies are unpainted.

Isamu needs some doctoring!

Posted

anyone have tried to dis-assemble Super/Armored parts for 25 or 29? The assembly sees does not use any glue but a layer of parts sandwiched together to hide the screws. There are screw covers as well that does not seem have any fair chance to be removed without destroying the area around it.

Posted

That moment when, on a bright sunny Sunday morning, you wake up ready to paint with your new airbrush and realize your shape ways parts have not dried AT ALL after you cleaned and primered them yesterday. So for the next two hours you give the parts another scrubbing in solvent and goo gone baths before re-primering them....*siiiiigh*

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