The computer and electronics super geek thread

[myk]

So I finally picked up a new receiver: a Pioneer VSX-1123K. Keep in mind I'm trying to slowly piece my components together so I haven't bought a new t.v. yet; I'm still using an older Panasonic that only has DVI input and no HDMI. I considered incompatability between the receiver and the t.v., but I determined that the t.v. is HDCP compliant so I didn't think it'd be a problem. Unfortunately, connecting the receiver to the t.v.'s DVI input does not give me any sort of picture other than a flashing, distorting screen. My PS4, PS3, Xbox 360, laptop and any other device have no problems working with my t.v. via DVI connection.

Convinced I had a bad receiver I took it back to Best Buy, however they tested it and managed to get it working. Confused, I went back home and hooked the receiver up to my newer computer monitor, and it worked perfectly. My question is this: aren't DVI and HDMI supposed to be able to play together, as long as they're both HDCP friendly? Is there anything about this arrangement that might be giving me trouble? Or, is this finally a sign that it's time to get a new t.v.? Thanks in advance...

[azrael]

Convinced I had a bad receiver I took it back to Best Buy, however they tested it and managed to get it working. Confused, I went back home and hooked the receiver up to my newer computer monitor, and it worked perfectly. My question is this: aren't DVI and HDMI supposed to be able to play together, as long as they're both HDCP friendly? Is there anything about this arrangement that might be giving me trouble? Or, is this finally a sign that it's time to get a new t.v.? Thanks in advance...

I would probably get a new TV. I've seen a number of decent sized screens in the sub-$600 range.

But to the question, there's a chance that the TV is just old enough to not be compatible with HDMI. That is, it doesn't recognize the signal coming from the HDMI side, even if they are HDCP-compliant.

[Archer]

When you guys connect your Desktop to your monitor, do you use DVI or HDMI? I want to go with HDMI since it seems more hassle free (plug and play, with audio), but I'll stick with DVI if there's some inherent advantage (I believe both are digital signals right?)

Also, the HDMI/DVI out on the GPU overrides the video out ports on the motherboard right?

[azrael]

When you guys connect your Desktop to your monitor, do you use DVI or HDMI? I want to go with HDMI since it seems more hassle free (plug and play, with audio), but I'll stick with DVI if there's some inherent advantage (I believe both are digital signals right?)

DisplayPort. If you have HDMI on the monitor, I would just use it. But if you only DVI, that will do. I would go with the newer standard, if applicable.

Also, the HDMI/DVI out on the GPU overrides the video out ports on the motherboard right?

If the BIOS/UEFI is set up that way, then yes. Normally it's yes.

[myk]

I use the HDMI-out on my laptop...

[Knight26]

Bugger me sideways,. I have scoured the folders that the latest version of my book should be in and it's gone, both the .doc and .htm versions. The epub version is there, but neither of the source files, WTF?!?! I need to find those files or else I will have to go into an older file and correct all the formatting errors, again, its not even on the old computer's hard drive or my backup external. ARGGH!!!!

[Shadow]

Oh my this is tempting.

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-Details.asp?EdpNo=9094086&sku=B69-10117&SRCCODE=WEM4126C&cm_mmc=email-_-Main-_-WEM4126-_-tigeremail4126&utm_source=EML&utm_medium=main&utm_campaign=WEM4126&cm_lm=clucas006@gmail.com

Intel Core i7-4790

MSI Z97-G55 SLI ATX Motherboard

Patriot Viper Xtreme 8GB Desktop Memory Module

WD Black 1 TB Desktop Hard Drive

SolidGear 650W Power Supply

Cougar Solution Black Steel Gaming ATX Mid Tower Computer Case

Kingwin CFY-012LB Advanced Series 120mm Yellow LED Case Fan

$669. With rebate, comes down to $519.

[mikeszekely]

My question is this: aren't DVI and HDMI supposed to be able to play together, as long as they're both HDCP friendly?

I think the problem is that HDCP-compliance is, IIRC, a moving target. That's why you'll see revisions in HDMI (1.2, 1.3, etc). DVI, I think, has remained rather static. I agree with Az, you're probably better off getting a new TV.

When you guys connect your Desktop to your monitor, do you use DVI or HDMI?

I use DVI. My speakers are separate from my monitor, so the audio is moot, and I don't have a Blu-ray drive so HDCP compliance isn't a huge deal for me. Plus, I've run into issues with HDMI handshakes (at least, I did on an older computer hooked up to an older receiver to my old TV... things have probably improved). Basically, if the computer went to sleep and I switched to another input, when I switched back I wouldn't have any video, even after waking the computer. Again, this is likely to not be a problem with newer monitors and newer graphics cards, especially without a receiver between them. In theory, though, HDMI doesn't offer any quality advantage over DVI, so I went with DVI just in case. If you have a Blu-ray drive and plan on watching movies on your computer, or if you're using your monitor's built-in speakers, HDMI has its advantages, but otherwise it's six of one half a dozen of the other, if you ask me.

Oh my this is tempting.

Definitely not bad, but it doesn't look like it comes with a graphics card.

[Shadow]

I think the problem is that HDCP-compliance is, IIRC, a moving target. That's why you'll see revisions in HDMI (1.2, 1.3, etc). DVI, I think, has remained rather static. I agree with Az, you're probably better off getting a new TV.

I use DVI. My speakers are separate from my monitor, so the audio is moot, and I don't have a Blu-ray drive so HDCP compliance isn't a huge deal for me. Plus, I've run into issues with HDMI handshakes (at least, I did on an older computer hooked up to an older receiver to my old TV... things have probably improved). Basically, if the computer went to sleep and I switched to another input, when I switched back I wouldn't have any video, even after waking the computer. Again, this is likely to not be a problem with newer monitors and newer graphics cards, especially without a receiver between them. In theory, though, HDMI doesn't offer any quality advantage over DVI, so I went with DVI just in case. If you have a Blu-ray drive and plan on watching movies on your computer, or if you're using your monitor's built-in speakers, HDMI has its advantages, but otherwise it's six of one half a dozen of the other, if you ask me.

Definitely not bad, but it doesn't look like it comes with a graphics card.

Looking at the list, I was probably going throw in a GTX 660 Sig 2 FTW and an 120GB SSD. I've been planning a build for awhile and this came along as cheaper overall. Not sure about the PSU though as I was looking at a Corsair or EVGA.

Edited June 11, 2014 by Shadow

[myk]

I think the problem is that HDCP-compliance is, IIRC, a moving target. That's why you'll see revisions in HDMI (1.2, 1.3, etc). DVI, I think, has remained rather static. I agree with Az, you're probably better off getting a new TV.

And because Macrossworld suggested it I went and did it: I bought a 60" Samsung plasma, model PN60F5300 to be exact. My fancy-pants Pioneer receiver had no problems mating with this monitor. Now, I'm spending time trying to figure out if I need to calibrate this t.v. All I've ever known for the past 10 years is 1080i on my Sharp projection monitor, so even if this Samsung's picture is garbage out of the box I couldn't tell the difference. I've used some of the calibrations from AVSforums but to me the posted settings seem to dull the image out with a hint of....green? I will say that I love staring at my movies on this screen and wish I had done it sooner; who cares about the money.

One thing that has me vexed at the moment is Aliens on blu-ray: there's a faint flash of light that strobes every second or so; is this because of the movie itself, my settings, the PS3?

Edited June 12, 2014 by myk

[Archer]

Just got my first mechanical keyboard (CM Storm Quickfire Stealth, with Cherry MX Reds). WOW! I wish I had moved to mechanical years ago, it's just such an amazing experience typing. I'm just looking for excuses to type stuff up now, it's so wonderful

[miles316]

Just got my first mechanical keyboard (CM Storm Quickfire Stealth, with Cherry MX Reds). WOW! I wish I had moved to mechanical years ago, it's just such an amazing experience typing. I'm just looking for excuses to type stuff up now, it's so wonderful

Sorry but I don't know how to word this so it doesn't sound stupid. What is a "Mechanical Keyboard" ?

[azrael]

Sorry but I don't know how to word this so it doesn't sound stupid. What is a "Mechanical Keyboard" ?

Seriously, you have to start using a search engine. Google -> Mechanical Keyboard

[JB0]

Sorry but I don't know how to word this so it doesn't sound stupid. What is a "Mechanical Keyboard" ?

One that uses microswitches instead of silicone rubber dome switches.

It's a bit of a misnomer, as both styles of keyboard are "mechanical". But whatcha gonna do?

[TangledThorns]

Yeah, I bought one of the last Corsair gun metal mechanical keyboards this year. I never thought I'd pay $130 for a keyboard but its nice, soooo nice.

[miles316]

One that uses microswitches instead of silicone rubber dome switches.

It's a bit of a misnomer, as both styles of keyboard are "mechanical". But whatcha gonna do?

Thank you for clearing that up, and for not giving a snide remark.

[Archer]

Gonna need some help. I received my new desktop yesterday, and quickly jumped in and installed steam, etc.

It was then that I noticed that I had 140 windows updates to be done. I let automatic Windows update take care of it, and install upon restart. It was at this point that windows gave me an install error, and told me it was "reverting to before changes".

After 30 minutes at this page, I was finally given the desktop, at which point I tried to manually install the updates (again, all 140).

Now, upon restart, the title screen blue screens at "configuring Windows updates 32%", and I crash out, and the system automatically restarts.

Safe mode crashes in a similar fashion. I don't think it's a hardware issue as the computer was running fine before these stupid updates.

I'm not familiar with Windows as I'm a Mac user. Any help/ideas on this issue?

[azrael]

I'm not familiar with Windows as I'm a Mac user. Any help/ideas on this issue?

Did you get a Windows disc? You can do a repair on Windows with that. Since the computer is booting into Windows, I too, don't suspect bad hardware. If it's software, which is probably the likely culprit, you can try disabling any antivirus if you can ever get it to load Windows again. It could also be a Windows component. It's tough to say though.

If repairing doesn't work, nor does disabling/uninstalling software help, then I would find a Windows installation disc and reinstall Windows. It's still new and you haven't loaded a lot of stuff on it yet so I would consider that.

[Archer]

Yeah, I'm leaning towards reinstalling, since I barely have anything on it. I did get a windows disc, so that's good.

I'm just worried that even if I reinstall, I'm gonna get the same update errors.

As added info, I don't have any antivirus on it, and the only program besides steam that I installed was the steelseries software for use with my mouse.

Might have to call digital storm later today if things don't improve. Gah, I just wish they took care off this stuff at the factory

[Archer]

Sorry for the double post, but I finally got my system running again.

Had to format the hard drive (not a big deal, since this is a new system), and then I reinstalled windows 7 with service pack 1 via install disk.

Everything is working really well now, and I installed all the necessary drivers as well. For some reason, system seems to be running even a bit quicker now as well (could just be placebo).

Good thing I blasted that old windows install into the next dimension, was really upsetting me

I still have like 90 windows updates to do, but I might hold off on those until later. Maybe I'll just wait till service pack 2 to roll around, and give me all the relevant stuff.

[azrael]

...

I still have like 90 windows updates to do, but I might hold off on those until later. Maybe I'll just wait till service pack 2 to roll around, and give me all the relevant stuff.

Likely a software conflict.

And don't wait for a SP2 cuz there won't be one. MS wants you to install Windows 8.1 (which most are avoiding like a plague).

[Chewie]

You already restored but you could have done them in blocks and narrowed out which one was causing the issue and then done it manually from Microsoft's website.

There's no reason you shouldn't be installing all updates when available unless you run into issues again. A few of the newer updates can cause issues with installing, but it's not system breaking.

As for W8.1, I seriously don't see the issue anymore. Early on with 8 I could understand why, but with 8.1s options, there are few reasons not to upgrade and most of those are legacy programs or programs people are too cheap to rebuy current versions of. While I use Stardock's Start 8 to eliminate most of the features of 8.1 on my own PC, I deal with stock 8.1 on a daily basis. I can tell you from experience that more and more of the W8.1 hate is coming from people being unable to use Office 2003, and a lot of older XP programs. Windows 8 hating was due to the learning curve and the touch interface being the primary way to use it unless you wanted it to be cumbersome. That's all changed.

[Archer]

Thanks for the help guys. I've slowly started to install updates ordered from past to present (by date). I do about 10 or so at a time.

In other news, EVGA GTX 780 SC is a beast of a card. So many FPS, never experienced gaming like this before.

[mikeszekely]

Thanks for the help guys. I've slowly started to install updates ordered from past to present (by date). I do about 10 or so at a time.

In other news, EVGA GTX 780 SC is a beast of a card. So many FPS, never experienced gaming like this before.

It's a real thrill when you run something you've only seen on consoles before and realize it looks like a who different game on PC.

It's not as fun the other way, though. After not touching a console in ages, my buddy's wife made me play Halo 4 with her. It's bad enough playing a shooter with a controller after you're used to mouse and keyboard, but I think I was too busy thinking "man, this game looks like butt!" to focus. Needless to say, I did not do well.

[anime52k8]

a poor workman blames his tools.

[mikeszekely]

a poor workman blames his tools.

Har har. Hey, I can't help it if playing shooters with a controller is like trying to hammer a nail with a screwdriver. It's just the wrong tool for the job.

[frothymug]

Har har. Hey, I can't help it if playing shooters with a controller is like trying to hammer a nail with a screwdriver. It's just the wrong tool for the job.

+1

Need some opinions, so here I am. My gf's computer died and I figured out that it was a bad PSU. Rather than replace the PSU to get her POS computer working again, I'm doing some research and shopping to build her a whole new system. Yes, she's going to have a better computer than me when I'm done. So magnanimous of me, I know...

So far, I'm looking at getting the following:

Intel Core i5 4670K processor - $190 at MicroCenter (whenever it's in stock again)

ASUS Z97-C mobo - $130 at Newegg (the rest from here on are NewEgg prices)

EVGA GTX 760 4 GB video card - $295

16 GB Corsair Vengeance 1600 MHz RAM - $160 (strange, because I bought the same RAM in my system for $110 several months ago...)

Antec Three Hundred Illiusion case - $65

EVGA 600B 600 Watt PSU - $65

I'm pretty sure the last component I'll need is a hard drive. I want to try out a SSD, but I know nothing of this newfangled technology. I could use some suggestions and maybe some tips on where to buy cheap. My gf currently has a 350 GB hard drive and always has plenty of space. I actually have a 150 GB and barely touch even half of it. I'm thinking we can get away with something around 300 GB or maybe a bit smaller. Otherwise, we don't want to spend money on both a SSD and a standard hard drive. What's going to work out best for us? What interface should I go for? I have no idea what the difference is between SATA 1, 2, or 3, or even micro-SATA. I'd like to stay at or below $120 for this component. I see the very cheapest ~250 GB SSD's are about this price.

Any and all suggestions on the hard drive and other components would be appreciated.

[azrael]

Need some opinions, so here I am. My gf's computer died and I figured out that it was a bad PSU. Rather than replace the PSU to get her POS computer working again, I'm doing some research and shopping to build her a whole new system. Yes, she's going to have a better computer than me when I'm done. So magnanimous of me, I know...

...

I'm pretty sure the last component I'll need is a hard drive. I want to try out a SSD, but I know nothing of this newfangled technology. I could use some suggestions and maybe some tips on where to buy cheap. My gf currently has a 350 GB hard drive and always has plenty of space. I actually have a 150 GB and barely touch even half of it. I'm thinking we can get away with something around 300 GB or maybe a bit smaller. Otherwise, we don't want to spend money on both a SSD and a standard hard drive. What's going to work out best for us? What interface should I go for? I have no idea what the difference is between SATA 1, 2, or 3, or even micro-SATA. I'd like to stay at or below $120 for this component. I see the very cheapest ~250 GB SSD's are about this price.

Any and all suggestions on the hard drive and other components would be appreciated.

Normally, I'd look at usage vs costs. Unless she's gaming, a GTX 760 should probably be your high-end. I see a hefty amount of future-proofing and near gaming-rig so I'll just stop there.

SATA 2 or 3 is fine. I'd avoid micro-SATA unless you want to hunt for adapters. If you really want the speed, I'd stick with the SSD. But know that you'll have to rely on that HDD for storage. If you want to do away with having to deal with 2 drives, then go with SSHDs. It has speeds better than a normal HDD and bang-for-buck that you don't get with SSDs. Plus, they have those guys in 1 TB-sizes for ~$100. Otherwise I'd consider going down to a ~128 GB SSD with the HDD.

[JB0]

Har har. Hey, I can't help it if playing shooters with a controller is like trying to hammer a nail with a screwdriver. It's just the wrong tool for the job.

You say that like a keyboard is a decent gaming input device instead of a mediocre text entry one.

</controversial_statement>

In the interests of full disclosure, I DO use a keyboard for a lot of PC games. And a trackball, because screw mice.

I still don't think a keyboard is an optimum or even DESIRABLE input target, though.

Messed with some keyboard replacements, but between desk space issues, abysmal build quality, and/or a general need to remap most of the controls(which is a staggering amount for anything I'd play with a keyboard), I wind up back on QWERTY.

[mikeszekely]

You say that like a keyboard is a decent gaming input device instead of a mediocre text entry one.

</controversial_statement>

In the interests of full disclosure, I DO use a keyboard for a lot of PC games. And a trackball, because screw mice.

I still don't think a keyboard is an optimum or even DESIRABLE input target, though.

Messed with some keyboard replacements, but between desk space issues, abysmal build quality, and/or a general need to remap most of the controls(which is a staggering amount for anything I'd play with a keyboard), I wind up back on QWERTY.

I've often thought something like the Wii's nunchuck, but with more buttons, would be ideal. Way more buttons.

What it really comes down to, though, is that a keyboard is a step down for directional input, but makes up for it with buttons. An analog stick and trigger, though, is a much more significant downgrade over a mouse or trackball for pointing.

[JB0]

Ayup. I hate analog nubs. They're the worst of all possible worlds.

The keyboard's big problem is it has all the buttons, but the layout is an abomination and there's no way to tell by feel where you are on it.

Also, yeah, no analog.

I used a Sidewinder Strategic Commander as a keyboard replacement for a while. Eight buttons under the finger tips, and three shift keys under the thumb. It was nice, except...

A. spring tension was way too light for my hand, and

B. it's not a HID game controller, so without native support in software you don't have the option of analog movement since you wind up having to bind keyboard keys to the analog axes. Also, there's no drivers for any modern OS, so it's not usable in any form nowadays, which is kind of problematic.

What I've wished for in terms of modern product is a CAD "mouse". But again, no support in the gaming software means limited functionality.

Edited June 21, 2014 by JB0

[frothymug]

Normally, I'd look at usage vs costs. Unless she's gaming, a GTX 760 should probably be your high-end. I see a hefty amount of future-proofing and near gaming-rig so I'll just stop there.

SATA 2 or 3 is fine. I'd avoid micro-SATA unless you want to hunt for adapters. If you really want the speed, I'd stick with the SSD. But know that you'll have to rely on that HDD for storage. If you want to do away with having to deal with 2 drives, then go with SSHDs. It has speeds better than a normal HDD and bang-for-buck that you don't get with SSDs. Plus, they have those guys in 1 TB-sizes for ~$100. Otherwise I'd consider going down to a ~128 GB SSD with the HDD.

Yeah, I forgot to mention that her computer is for gaming. I guess I'll get something that's SATA 3 compliant. I am sure that the Z97 chipset motherboards should be able to provide a SATA 3 port or two... I'll confirm that later today.

So far, I can get all of the parts I need for about $1100. I just hope MicroCenter restocks their 4670Ks.

[Archer]

Yeah, I forgot to mention that her computer is for gaming. I guess I'll get something that's SATA 3 compliant. I am sure that the Z97 chipset motherboards should be able to provide a SATA 3 port or two... I'll confirm that later today.

So far, I can get all of the parts I need for about $1100. I just hope MicroCenter restocks their 4670Ks.

I'm no computer expert (as shown in this thread), but from what I know about graphics cards, I'd suggest either dropping down to a 2GB GTX 760 (unless you plan on SLI in the future), or spend that extra bit of cash and get a GTX 770 instead. I feel like a 4GB 760 is a bit of a midway with no real advantages unless you plan on SLI in the future.

Or, if you're comfortable with AMD over nVidia, you could look into options like the r9 280x, which is the same price ($300), but offers performance on par or better than a GTX 770.

Just my $0.02

[azrael]

Yeah, I forgot to mention that her computer is for gaming. I guess I'll get something that's SATA 3 compliant. I am sure that the Z97 chipset motherboards should be able to provide a SATA 3 port or two... I'll confirm that later today.

I won't worry too much about SATA 2, 3, etc. as they are backwards compatible. The major difference between each revision is improvements in speed and the likelihood that you will reach those speeds is rare.

I too would consider an AMD card if you are looking at performance/$.

[Knight26]

Are there any good photoshop type apps for the android out there? I want to work on my last coverart while on the vanpool to work and don't want to have to drag my whole laptop along, any ideas? Will need to be able to work in layers, color, resize elements, etc... Is there a gimp for android?