The computer and electronics super geek thread

[azrael]

New/related question for everybody---could I have some just generic program/desktop pics from Win7? Anything BUT web-browsing. I'd like to see how the system font displays. Any of Window's own desktop menus (like the display properties or an opened start menu) would be especially useful. And if you've got a 1920x1080 22in monitor, that'd be especially helpful to compare absolute font size.

Still, from a few grabs I can find online of Win7, it still looks kinda small to me. (not as tiny as XP at default DPI, but still enough that I'd have to change it some). If I'm really lucky, Win7 at 125% DPI looks good for the system itself, yet still keeps small browser fonts small enough.

There are some artifacts due to Jpeg compression but that's about what the Start menu looks like, Classic theme, 1280x1024. I've seen it on a 1680x1050 monitor and it looks the same, size-wise.

[David Hingtgen]

PS--anyone willing to actually measure their "common" font size? To me, 2mm high is too small, but that's about what I'm seeing on most other people's screens.

[shiroikaze]

I have a 22" at 1920 x 1080, still got XP as well. 2mm font size in the post.

I'm actually trying to compare windows XP on both 1280 x 1024 and 1920 x 1080. Why am I comparing those two resolutions...

Edited January 13, 2011 by shiroikaze

[mikeszekely]

PS--anyone willing to actually measure their "common" font size? To me, 2mm high is too small, but that's about what I'm seeing on most other people's screens.

The D in your name above your avatar is just slightly more than 3mm. The numbers on the clock in the taskbar are about 2mm. I have no problem with this. Just to check it against some other stuff, the text in an article in popular science is about the same size, as is the text in a text message on my Android phone (Droid Incredible, if that helps) and I reckon it's a similar (if only slightly shorter) distance from my eyes to my lap than my eyes to my monitor. When I do stuff on my phone, my forearm is more or less at a right angle to my upper arm, and my upper arm isn't bent at all.

EDIT: Just did a quick test. You don't actually change the font in Windows 7, you change more or less everything. Text is bigger, but so are icons, the taskbar, etc. Changing the size in Windows 7 affects fonts all over, but it didn't look any different on web pages in Firefox (just the address bar and the site name on the tab). So I went back into IE9, and unchecked the "ignore font style" and "ignore font size" boxes under Tools>Internet Options>General>Accessibility. Sure enough, the font on the pages (technically, everything on the page) renders the same as if you have the the Display size set to Smaller - 100%. Then you can change View>Zoom to another size. The result should be larger fonts in Windows, larger fonts in IE, and tables that work right. The only downside I'm seeing is that some images on some web pages start to look a little blown-up. Here's on more pic. This time, I changed the Display (in Control Panel) to Medium - 125%, let IE9 render web pages according to the site, but set the zoom in IE to 125% as well. Is that more what you're looking for?

Edited January 13, 2011 by mikeszekely

[David Hingtgen]

I've been "starting from scratch" with all my settings. (changed to XP "silver" theme, to make sure everything is default to start with) I'm trying "standard" DPI, as that seems critical for "minimum size". Everything seems to be much easier to enlarge, than to shrink. So far I've got stuff "mostly good" but as I type this, I realize that 'quick reply' gives me uber-teeny tiny text. Like, 1pt font... But I do current have most sites and files/programs looking good. "Display properties" etc though still has tiny text.

[mikeszekely]

Check my edited reply above. If I recall correctly, Windows XP let you change the DPI on fonts, but like I said, Windows 7 changes the size of everything except web content.

[shiroikaze]

Nevermind, Mike already pointed it out.

Edited January 13, 2011 by shiroikaze

[mikeszekely]

Check my edited reply above. If I recall correctly, Windows XP let you change the DPI on fonts, but like I said, Windows 7 changes the size of everything except web content.

I didn't think 125% looked too bad for system icons and what not. Images looked pretty bad blown up to 150% in IE, though.

[David Hingtgen]

Ok, currently I'm at 112% DPI. While it still messes up the alignment at Pizza Hut, all icons/choices are still at least clickable/viewable. Most every other site works if set to "smallest" and I don't have to constantly uncheck/recheck "ignore style and size".

::edit 2:: 121% is actually the "next step up", not 120%. (yes, I'm going 1 by 1). May be the best compromise---a few sites are slightly mis-aligned, but generally still work, and everything else is just that extra little smidge better that I really prefer.

"Quick reply" and "edit post" (like I'm typing right now) at MW is still quite tiny though. ::edit:: Switching to rich-text format for the editor solves that problem.

Still going to tweak the registry later, fiddle with system fonts etc---I got the clock decently sized without killing the web-functionality, but many programs still display quite small. (CPU-ID and GPU-Z in particular give me issues)

[Gabe Q]

I was wondering if you guys could help me out. I asked you guys for advice on specing a system and here I am with my new system. It's been running fine I have an i5 750 running on an asus board. I built it in November and it's been running like a champ no blue screens no problems whatsoever.

Anyway, just now, I turned it on and during boot the speakers went crazy with static. I shut down the computer as soon as it would let me with the shutdown command. Anyway, I turn it back on and the speakers are fine now and I just shrug my shoulders, oh well. Then I realize the internet doesn't work but it had been working fine all day. So what I think happened is that somehow my network adapter got shorted out? Is there any way I can verify that this is the problem? I checked the network adapter in device manager and it says this device is working fine. I don't know what just happened. I switched the cable so that's not it. I'm typing this on my other computer which is hooked up to the same wired connection so it has to be a problem with the onboard network adapter, right?

The network manager goes on and off saying finding connection/not connected and the light in the back where the cable connects flashes on and off.

I'm tearing my hair out on this one...

[easnoddy]

So I'm not a streaming/video expert at all, basically a novice. Anyways, I started downloading the Macross Frontier Central Anime subs and the picture is flipped vertically. The subtitles are on the top and the whole picture is upside down. Anyone know why? Know how to fix it?? Thanks!

[shiroikaze]

Are they old speakers? Possibly something loose with the wiring, that's what is happening to mine.

As for your network adapter. Is it a Realtek? Can you access your network even though you can't access the internet? Did you install anything Adobe or Apple-related recently?

Edited January 17, 2011 by shiroikaze

[Seto Kaiba]

So I'm not a streaming/video expert at all, basically a novice. Anyways, I started downloading the Macross Frontier Central Anime subs and the picture is flipped vertically. The subtitles are on the top and the whole picture is upside down. Anyone know why? Know how to fix it?? Thanks!

Huh... well, it would be helpful if you gave us a little more information about the codec and player setup you're using to play the video files, and how the files themselves were encoded. Without that, it's going to be rather difficult to help you address the problem. The recommended setup for most fansubs is to use either VLC Media Player, Media Player Classic, or ZoomPlayer, with the Combined Community Codec Pack.

If you're using ZoomPlayer, the solution is simple enough... right click anywhere on the playback area, then go to "Stream Selection" and change the selection from "Original Picture" to "Flipped Picture" or vice-versa. In VLC, you need go to the Preferences menu (Tools > Preferences), change the settings mode to "Advanced", then go to Videos > Filters > Transformation and change the transformation type to "Flip Vertically" in the dropdown menu, or change it back if it somehow got set that way unintentionally. For other players, you might have to tinker with DirectVobSub directly (assuming you're using CCCP).

[Gabe Q]

Yes, it's a Realtek onboard network adapter. Well, the speakers are working fine. Get this, I booted from an Ubuntu live CD and the internet works fine on that same computer. So I know it's not a hardware problem. Really can't figure this one out.

[shiroikaze]

Probably a service conflict is my guess. When I tried to figure out what was wrong with my connection, that is usually what comes up.

Do you have a "Bonjour Service" under your Services tab in msconfig?

Edited January 17, 2011 by shiroikaze

[easnoddy]

Huh... well, it would be helpful if you gave us a little more information about the codec and player setup you're using to play the video files, and how the files themselves were encoded. Without that, it's going to be rather difficult to help you address the problem. The recommended setup for most fansubs is to use either VLC Media Player, Media Player Classic, or ZoomPlayer, with the Combined Community Codec Pack.

If you're using ZoomPlayer, the solution is simple enough... right click anywhere on the playback area, then go to "Stream Selection" and change the selection from "Original Picture" to "Flipped Picture" or vice-versa. In VLC, you need go to the Preferences menu (Tools > Preferences), change the settings mode to "Advanced", then go to Videos > Filters > Transformation and change the transformation type to "Flip Vertically" in the dropdown menu, or change it back if it somehow got set that way unintentionally. For other players, you might have to tinker with DirectVobSub directly (assuming you're using CCCP).

The problem was the Matrosky/.mkv format of the files. Divx player and VLC could play them correctly, but WMP and Media player classic that came with the mkv codec pack from CCCP, would show the video flipped across the vertical access (subs on the top and backwards). The mkv format is completely new to me so I had a download a fair amount and do research just to get this stuff working. The sooner I get it burned to DVD the happier I'll be.

Thanks!

[Seto Kaiba]

The problem was the Matrosky/.mkv format of the files. Divx player and VLC could play them correctly, but WMP and Media player classic that came with the mkv codec pack from CCCP, would show the video flipped across the vertical access (subs on the top and backwards).

Huh... that's a new one on me. I've never been able to get Windows Media Player to behave properly when I'm trying to play videos in exotic formats, so that's not exactly a huge surprise. I'm kind of surprised that you're not getting good results with Media Player Classic tho, since several of my friends practically swear by it. If you have CCCP, then you ought to be in good shape. If it's working in VLC, then you ought to have a good time of it. I've been using a mix of VLC and ZoomPlayer, mainly because VLC tends to chug a bit when the subtitles get moving too quickly.

[shiroikaze]

Finally bought that HD 6950 .

Quick question guys, since I'm using AMD's integrated HD 4200 graphics with recent drivers, can't I just drop the video card in, let the driver autodetect the card and run without a hitch?

Or do I still have to uninstall the driver before putting in the new graphics card?

[David Hingtgen]

I had enough issues with integrated graphics that I vowed never to buy anything that had them. Nowadays it seems they've finally smartened up and it's much easier to disable them, but I still hate them.

It's usually less of a 'driver' thing and more of a "going into the BIOS" thing to disable the on-board integrated graphics. The exact setting should in the your PC or motherboard manual, it's a common enough upgrade that they include instructions.

[shiroikaze]

I had enough issues with integrated graphics that I vowed never to buy anything that had them. Nowadays it seems they've finally smartened up and it's much easier to disable them, but I still hate them.

It's usually less of a 'driver' thing and more of a "going into the BIOS" thing to disable the on-board integrated graphics. The exact setting should in the your PC or motherboard manual, it's a common enough upgrade that they include instructions.

Thanks for reminding me about that. When the card comes in today, I'll remember to do that .

I was just curious about not suffering any setbacks if I don't uninstall the driver since AMD uses the same driver package for just about all their cards. Though I guess I should go for the safe-than-sorry route...

[azrael]

Finally bought that HD 6950 .

Quick question guys, since I'm using AMD's integrated HD 4200 graphics with recent drivers, can't I just drop the video card in, let the driver autodetect the card and run without a hitch?

Or do I still have to uninstall the driver before putting in the new graphics card?

You'll probably need to install separate drivers for the new video card and may or may not uninstall the current graphics drivers. The integrated graphics drivers can be bundled with the motherboard chipset drivers (I know nVidia does this) so removing the current graphics drivers may remove your chipset drivers. But most motherboards with integrated graphics will default to the dedicated graphics card if one is detected.

[jenius]

Don't forget to upgrade it to a 6970! I've been running mine as a 6970 for a little while now, absolutely no problems.

[shiroikaze]

I probably will just unlock the shaders only, will do that tomorrow though .

Going back into the Mini P180 just reminded me of how much of a hard work it is just to manage cables. I really didn't want the SATA cables to stick out like that, but it looks like I need longer ones if I were to route them more neatly. I would like to get rid of that PATA cable too...

Here's a picture of the innards, the other new addition is the Scythe S-Flex-E fan.

Surprisingly, while I can still barely hear the card at idle, it's alot more quieter at full load than I first thought. The fan is on automatic and it never ramps any higher than 35%, which is a little under 2700 RPM. I tried manual control and at 60%, it got terrifyingly loud. I'd hate to hear it at 100%.

[edit]I just went and unlocked the shaders and raised AMD's powertune control to 20%. No overclocking unfortunately.

Instead of using the 6970 bios, I ended up using a modified 6950 bios that only unlocked the shaders but not the memory frequencies. I just read today that there were a few rare incidents of video cards getting damaged due to the bios change, no one really pinpointed what the exact problem was but the general consensus was that it was either heat or the memory modules couldn't handle the higher frequencies.

The person who uploaded the original 6950-->6970 tutorial also released this script (with a help of a contributor): http://www.techpowerup.com/wizzard/Mod_BIOS_HD_6950.zip

What it does is it took the original 6950 bios, and modified it to unlock the shaders only.

Edited January 24, 2011 by shiroikaze

[Valkyrie addict]

Hi

is there any way to get rid of those fvcking "IMVU" adds!! they are everywhere and I'm sick of them!! I think the only place I haven't seen them is here

drives me nuts, I can't watch a freaking youtube video without that disgusting add of two 3d cartoon kissing and hugging, WTF!!?? I mean, who the fvck is so desperate to get enticed by a 3d image of cartoon dating, whatever...as well as those retarded avatar-blue-sh!t people crap

I have pop-up blockers and poo, blocks everything but this crap!

Edited January 24, 2011 by Valkyrie addict

[jenius]

[edit]I just went and unlocked the shaders and raised AMD's powertune control to 20%. No overclocking unfortunately.

Instead of using the 6970 bios, I ended up using a modified 6950 bios that only unlocked the shaders but not the memory frequencies. I just read today that there were a few rare incidents of video cards getting damaged due to the bios change, no one really pinpointed what the exact problem was but the general consensus was that it was either heat or the memory modules couldn't handle the higher frequencies.

The person who uploaded the original 6950-->6970 tutorial also released this script (with a help of a contributor): http://www.techpowerup.com/wizzard/Mod_BIOS_HD_6950.zip

What it does is it took the original 6950 bios, and modified it to unlock the shaders only.

Interesting. I've been running it as an overclocked (slightly) 6970 and so far no problems. If it has issues I'll be sure to report them.

[azrael]

...drives me nuts, ...

For Mozilla Firefox: http://adblockplus.org/en/

For Google Chrome: https://chrome.google.com/extensions/detail/cfhdojbkjhnklbpkdaibdccddilifddb

[Valkyrie addict]

For Mozilla Firefox: http://adblockplus.org/en/

For Google Chrome: https://chrome.google.com/extensions/detail/cfhdojbkjhnklbpkdaibdccddilifddb

hahahaha! great way of quoting me!

thanks a lot!

[mikeszekely]

A friend of mine's got a weird issue. He's got Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit installed on his wife's home-built computer. He's got 4GB of RAM installed. The BIOS shows 4GB. Windows reports that 4GB is installed, but only 2GB is usable. I made him double check, and yes, he's definitely using 64-bit. He also checked the RAM timings, and he said both sticks and the board match. I'm kind of stumped... the only other guess I have is that maybe the GPU is borrowing some system RAM, but 2GB seems excessive. Any other ideas?

[VT 1010]

Is he sure the RAM is actually working properly? Has he checked to see if one of the sticks is malfunctioning?

[shiroikaze]

Your friend can memtest the RAM if he hasn't yet, though I don't think he needs to for this kind of problem.

Maybe he can check out the bios to see if he can change how much memory the GPU can use.

[mikeszekely]

Your friend can memtest the RAM if he hasn't yet, though I don't think he needs to for this kind of problem.

Maybe he can check out the bios to see if he can change how much memory the GPU can use.

I just had him check dxdiag to see if the GPU was using any memory. It was, but only 768MB. Still a gig and a quarter unaccounted for.

[azrael]

I just had him check dxdiag to see if the GPU was using any memory. It was, but only 768MB. Still a gig and a quarter unaccounted for.

Try this:

1. Run msconfig.

2. Choose the Boot tab.

3. Click the Advanced Options button.

4. Turn off the Maximum Memory option*.

5. Close the dialog boxes, and then reboot the system.

Also check the BIOS and see if Memory Remap is enabled or disabled in the BIOS.

[jenius]

[edit]I just went and unlocked the shaders and raised AMD's powertune control to 20%. No overclocking unfortunately.

Instead of using the 6970 bios, I ended up using a modified 6950 bios that only unlocked the shaders but not the memory frequencies. I just read today that there were a few rare incidents of video cards getting damaged due to the bios change, no one really pinpointed what the exact problem was but the general consensus was that it was either heat or the memory modules couldn't handle the higher frequencies.

The person who uploaded the original 6950-->6970 tutorial also released this script (with a help of a contributor): http://www.techpowerup.com/wizzard/Mod_BIOS_HD_6950.zip

What it does is it took the original 6950 bios, and modified it to unlock the shaders only.

A little update, I do seem to be having an AMD related issue now. Recently when I've started my computer I get the following error:

ATI Error: Couldn't load HydraDMH.dll

Doesn't seem to cause any problems though oddly enough after I hit okay. I'm running my 6950 unlocked as follows:

GPU Clock: 900MHZ

Memory Clock: 1400MHZ

Power Setting: 20%

[myk]

You guys obviously know about current phones and what they can do, so I gotta question. I'm sick of paying $80+ a month for cable internet, so I was wondering if I could just disable the cable by just using a smart phone for my internet needs. I don't game online anymore-the only thing I use the intra-webs for is mail, youtube, occasional facebook crap, downloading/viewing/printing guitar tabs, looking at naked women and obviously message boards like 'Macrossworld. Could I truly replace the cable company with one of these phones everyone's always nutting themselves over or would I be seriously affecting my internet capabilities? If so, what phones do you recommend? Also, cost for using a smartphone isn't a problem. I already pay $90 a month with Verizon and getting unlimited web access is only $10 more-a bargain if I can ditch the $80 cable bill...

Edited February 15, 2011 by myk

[Chewie]

You guys obviously know about current phones and what they can do, so I gotta question. I'm sick of paying $80+ a month for cable internet, so I was wondering if I could just disable the cable by just using a smart phone for my internet needs. I don't game online anymore-the only thing I use the intra-webs for is mail, youtube, occasional facebook crap, downloading/viewing/printing guitar tabs, looking at naked women and obviously message boards like 'Macrossworld. Could I truly replace the cable company with one of these phones everyone's always nutting themselves over or would I be seriously affecting my internet capabilities? If so, what phones do you recommend?

You're looking at $15/25/30 a month for a data plan you MUST have on most phones that will tether. Then you need to add the $20-30 plan for tethering itself. You might want to look into getting a mobile broadband card from Verizon or Att. They're $35 a month with a 3GB up/down soft cap, and $10 a gig after that. If all you use it for is what you say, you'd have a hard time using it all up. Sprint has one too that is $60 a month with unlimited, BUT the unlimited part only works in "4g" areas. Otherwise it's a 5GB soft cap.

From what I've been told there are ways for using your data plan for tethering with jailbreaking(iphone)/flashing(android) but if your phone company finds out they'll nail you to the wall for it.