Testors paint..........

[e_jacob77]

HI all,

Will Testors work like taimya paint, I mean my builder prefers this paint, an wants to use the clear coat on both my Sheryll decal Alto's..........

Will the thining be the same?

[Noyhauser]

Well the best product for sealing decals is Future, but if you need to go the Testors/Modelmaster route, look for the Floquil brand stuff. Same company but better formulation (apparently.)

I've used the Testors/MM (their Acryl range), and the best piece of advice I can give is to use the product sparingly. If you're using an airbrush, go for light coats and not that much. If you put too much down it will crack like how mud cracks as it dries and then you have a real problem on your hands. It takes careful sanding and much headache... which I had with this Venom kit (though I didn't list it.)

My suggestion, go with future or be very, very careful.

[thegunny]

If you are refering to Dullcote then it is perfectly safe.

I have models that are over 30 years old that have Dullcote on them and they look just like the day I painted them. Whilst many people extol the virtues of Future I have never used it and all my models turned out just fine. I just put down some gloss clear where I want the decal, put the decal on and settle it with SuprerSol/MicroSol (although I've been trying Mr Softener lately and it works fine too), wait at least 24 hours then clear coat with Dullcote. It must be sprayed on (airbrush not spray can as I have heard that the spray can version does some funny things) not brushed as it is a lacquer and can possibly damage the decal and paint as it can soften the paint/decal slightly and the brush can pull at the paint/decal.

Just wondering that if you are paying someone to build this for you, why are you questioning their methods Surely they have experience in doing this and everyone has their preferred methods.

[SchizophrenicMC]

I use Tamiya paints and clear coat, because it's cheaper, to be honest. Otherwise, I'd probably use Mr. Hobby brand stuff. If you must go down the Testors route, just be careful. If you have someone building this for you, I would seriously hope you'd looked at his previous works to get an idea of how he builds, and what he creates.

Tamiya clear has worked wonderfully for me, so far, and my dad's done some good things with Testors clear coats. Honestly, Future's just a Swedish-manufactured laminate floor polish and sealant. In my experience, it goes on kind of thick, and leaves a nasty gloss on the kit. (I like flat coat )

[Noyhauser]

Honestly, Future's just a Swedish-manufactured laminate floor polish and sealant. In my experience, it goes on kind of thick, and leaves a nasty gloss on the kit. (I like flat coat )

Going on thick is a virtue. It provides a great base for decals if you put a small amount down. even better it covers up decal film, giving them a "painted on" look. Finally its UV resistant and will never yellow itself.

After that you can put a flat coat (I like the Floquil Flat), or mix tamiya flat base with future. This is the effect you can get.

Matt Swan has a great run down on it...

Its widely used by modelers. Then again if you're just building gundams...

[thegunny]

Its widely used by modelers. Then again if you're just building gundams...

I knew this would this turn into another Future is great and any other method sucks thread as soon as I saw the title

Your quoted comment wasn't necessary. Just because he doesn't subscribe to your methods or makes models differently to you doesn't mean he is any less a modeller.

I have won multiple awards at various model shows (without a drop of Future ever touching my models ) and I also make Gundam models . It's attitudes just like yours that stopped me from bothering to enter any more contests.

[Noyhauser]

I knew this would this turn into another Future is great and any other method sucks thread as soon as I saw the title

Your quoted comment wasn't necessary. Just because he doesn't subscribe to your methods or makes models differently to you doesn't mean he is any less a modeller.

I have won multiple awards at various model shows (without a drop of Future ever touching my models ) and I also make Gundam models . It's attitudes just like yours that stopped me from bothering to enter any more contests.

Before you go all judgmental, maybe a bit of context is required.

#1 I don't have a problem with Gundams, I build them from time to time too and there are some pretty awesome customizations. Really my comment referred back to a conversation myself, Schizophrenic and others participated in a few years ago on Bandai's 1/72 scale offering vs "classic" models. I was posting in jest, poking fun at another individual.

Edit: I've looked through the threads and Schitzophrenic wasn't as much as a participant as I thought, so if offense was taken, I apologize.

#2 Future isn't the be all and end all, and I wouldn't really ever say that. To be honest I kinda feel its the best of a lot of bad options, (if you have other ideas please share them.) If you notice, I didn't tell the original poster not to use the testors product, but to be careful of the issues I've encountered.

Edited January 15, 2011 by Noyhauser

[neptunesurvey]

Testors is not bad. Whether the thinning ratio is the same I'm not certain. I usually do a lot of spray testing to see how it comes out. I started using Floquil on some models and it seems to do well. For a high gloss I usually go with Future myself.

When setting the decals I use setting solution and when dried I spray on a dull coat or gloss depending on what I am looking for.

Since it sounds like you have someone else doing it, he probably has his own favorites.

[SchizophrenicMC]

lol implied inferiority

If it means anything, I don't JUST build Gundams. I build Gundams and I build other things. (For example, Venator-class is next in line) I just like a flat coat on everything, and am willing to use decal softener to get the effect I want. I don't like Future as much as a sprayed top coat because it doesn't act like I want, nor does it give me the desired finish, and, well, my clear coat doesn't yellow, either

In any case, my apologies, but I have no idea who you are, Noyhauser, and I have absolutely no recollection of some conversation with you. Sorry, but I space on names, easily.

[David Hingtgen]

Testors is a brand, not a particular type. They make acrylics, enamels, and lacquers.

I know wm cheng likes their Model Master acrylic clears. But their infamous dullcote is a lacquer. I like Testors enamel semi-gloss, but Tamiya for a dull coat.

[derex3592]

Testors is a brand, not a particular type. They make acrylics, enamels, and lacquers.

I know wm cheng likes their Model Master acrylic clears. But their infamous dullcote is a lacquer. I like Testors enamel semi-gloss, but Tamiya for a dull coat.

I live and die by Model Master enamels myself...I have tried the Tamiya Acrylics everyone swears by and I think they SUCK ASS. Sorry, maybe I'm not utilizing them right or something, but I find they don't cover for sh*t. YUCK!

[Noyhauser]

I live and die by Model Master enamels myself...I have tried the Tamiya Acrylics everyone swears by and I think they SUCK ASS. Sorry, maybe I'm not utilizing them right or something, but I find they don't cover for sh*t. YUCK!

Are you paint brushing them? Because they aren't really formulated for that sort of application... I used to try that and it never worked well.

Edited January 18, 2011 by Noyhauser

[Jasonc]

I've never tried the Future,,,EVER. Not that I wouldn't, but I've used the Model Master dullcote from spraycan and from airbrush, and both have done well for me. For decal work, I do seal it in a clearcoat first, but I've used the Model Master stuff for years, and none of my finished kits had issues with yellowing, or cracks, or anything like that. they still look rather new IMO. I've won a couple awards using that method, so it's all a matter of preference.

I don't think there is a be all, end all to the Future polish stuff. some people only use it, and it works. Model building is like a walk to the store. There's many routes you can take, but eventually, we all get there.

[Shaorin]

HI all,

Will Testors work like taimya paint, I mean my builder prefers this paint, an wants to use the clear coat on both my Sheryll decal Alto's..........

Will the thining be the same?

i recommend you go with TAMIYA COLOR exclusively.

in my personal plastic modeling experience of twenty years,

i've found the TAMIYA brand to be the all-round best quality of plastic model pigment, with the best designed bottles

in the industry, hands down, and the paint itself MOST easy to work with...

speaking of;

i'm gonna have to hit my local HOBBY TOWN U.S.A. to pick up some TAMIYA gloss-pink, semi-gloss black,

and semi-gloss flesh, to paint up the little unfinished DYRL Minmay-chan that comes with the 1/72 1986 BANDAI HCM VF-1J

that i will be buying this week...

Edited January 19, 2011 by Shaorin

[SchizophrenicMC]

Oh, and Tamiya bottles fit right onto standard suction-feed airbrushes

Of course, I need to eventually spring for a gravity-feed...

[anime52k8]

Oh, and Tamiya bottles fit right onto standard suction-feed airbrushes

Of course, I need to eventually spring for a gravity-feed...

what airbrush does that? and why the heck would you want to feed an airbrush strait form a bottle of paint?

as for paint, I like I use model master and Tamiya acrylic as that's what I can get locally but recently I've gotten in to using Tamiya spray lacquer through an airbrush.

[SchizophrenicMC]

My airbrush feeds from the bottom. And, so do many. But the point isn't necessarily feeding paint straight from the bottle, but making it cheaper on me, because I don't have to buy any more jars to fit to my airbrush, because once I use up a Tamiya Color, I can just mix paint in that, brush it on, and call it a day.

That said, my compressor broke down, and my brush has seen better days... (Well, it IS 3 years older than I am) I'm looking into getting a new brush and compressor, and a fume hood for my work bench. Using Tamiya Spray just isn't as effective, and I'm getting tired of how poorly white paint brushes on for details.

[anime52k8]

My airbrush feeds from the bottom. And, so do many.

I meant has a cap that is threaded to match tamiya Jars.

I've owned siphon feed airbrushes before, but I don't use them because they suck compared to my current one. as for storage, Tamiya jars are nice but I don't actually go through them fast enough to have an actual collection built up (I only use them for brush painted details).

I just buy spare Mr Hobby bottles from Hobbywave. They're cheep and I can throw 3~4 of them in to an order and not pay any extra for shipping. Mr hobby bottles are the best because they have a separate plastic gasket that seats into the bottle rather than the cap so they're super easy to clean.

[Ghost Train]

I find very little quality difference between Testors or Tamiya Acrylics, and have often used them together in the same projects. As of late, I've been using PolyScale, which I feel beats both Testors or Tamiya slightly.

As a side note, I use one of those inferior syphon airbrushes, or more precisely the Badger Anthem 155. I've also compared this to my gravity feeding Pasche Talon which despite requiring much more care and maintenance, does not produce and en result superior to my Anthem. I've had the Badger for 3 years now with no discernible problems or complaints. It is the AK-47 of airbrushes.

Edited January 20, 2011 by Ghost Train

[ae_productions]

I find very little quality difference between Testors or Tamiya Acrylics, and have often used them together in the same projects. As of late, I've been using PolyScale, which I feel beats both Testors or Tamiya slightly.

As a side note, I use one of those inferior syphon airbrushes, or more precisely the Badger Anthem 155. I've also compared this to my gravity feeding Pasche Talon which despite requiring much more care and maintenance, does not produce and en result superior to my Anthem. I've had the Badger for 3 years now with no discernible problems or complaints. It is the AK-47 of airbrushes.

I'll have to keep an eye out for those.

[Jefuemon]

Since everyone seems to be venting off-track now, I'll chip in.

I'm a strictly Mr. Color man, myself. The one exception being the Tamiya Gunmetal enamel. And I have never used any type of clear coat.

So there.....

[SchizophrenicMC]

I meant has a cap that is threaded to match tamiya Jars.

I've owned siphon feed airbrushes before, but I don't use them because they suck compared to my current one. as for storage, Tamiya jars are nice but I don't actually go through them fast enough to have an actual collection built up (I only use them for brush painted details).

Mine fits Tamiya jars, and a couple buddies' older brushes do. And, while I agree, siphon brushes aren't as good as gravity feeders, they're cheaper and easier to maintain. Plus, you can just swap the feed bottle. In any case, my brush is a hand-me-down from my father.

Anyway, Testors is okay, but expensive, and, if your third part prefers to use it, all the better for him. I, personally, prefer Tamiya paint, because it costs less and works well in an airbrush.

[Greyryder]

I use Model Master for most of my painting. Good coverage on most colors, and it doesn't need to be thinned, to airbrush. I tried spraying Tamiya from an airbrush once, and could not get it to stop giving am orange peel effect. I do a lot of brush painting, and have trouble with the Tamiya thickening up in the jar, very quickly. (Which is odd, seeing as it seems to take longer than the Model Master to dry, on the piece) I do prefer the Tamiya over the Model Master when it comes to metallic colors, though. The Model Master metallics are all infuriatingly transparent.

I find my gravity fed airbrushes much easier to clean, than those siphon jar lids are. Seems like it takes forever flush all the paint out their tubes and fittings. (I probably shouldn't be comparing a crappy Testors airbrush that died after two months, to my two Iwata airbrushes, though.)

[SchizophrenicMC]

Well, I mean, my airbrush has been around nearly 20 years, now, and it still works. Just sayin'.

[anime52k8]

I find my gravity fed airbrushes much easier to clean, than those siphon jar lids are. Seems like it takes forever flush all the paint out their tubes and fittings. (I probably shouldn't be comparing a crappy Testors airbrush that died after two months, to my two Iwata airbrushes, though.)

This.

The siphon feed one's I've used all seem to have more parts/are harder to take apart than gravity feeds, and the parts that tend to collect the most paint are harder to clean because of their shape. (talking about Paasche and badger airbrushes here).

the Testors Aztek brushes are absolute crap. Shit melts if you run lacquer through it...

[SchizophrenicMC]

Don't get me wrong. I really, really do want a gravity-feed brush, but I'm just saying a siphon brush is better than nothing, and the one I have has been around longer than I have.

If I get some money together, I'm thinking of buying one that HLJ carries, along with an order of (dare I say it?) gunpla.

[thegunny]

I brought a Badger 200 airbrush around 1978 and still use it today. The only part I have had to replace is the needle and that was my fault as I dropped it when the tip was off and God forbid I also use a Badger mini spray gun for bigger jobs.

I recently brought a gravity feed double action contraption and it looks good in the box but that's about it. As I get the results I want with the 200 I couldn't be bothered persevering with the DA brush.

And as everyone knows and it's a scientific fact; GRAVITY SUCKS

Edited January 22, 2011 by thegunny

[Jasonc]

Somehow this became the airbrush + paint thread, but I love the Iwata HB-c. Gravity fed, and easy as pie to clean with a good thinner. I'm going to be trying some new paint soon, probably Mr Color I think, as one of my buddies suggested trying it. Can't hurt running at least one color through the airbrush with it.