Swoosh Posted July 4, 2011 Posted July 4, 2011 I have to say that the fighter mode has really grown on me, especially now that I have it in person. Did a quick panel lining and light weathering on just the fighter surfaces for now to see how it would look. The amount of surface detail it has is really nice. Nice work!!! Now I understand why Bandai hobby department didn't release the 1/72 model kit...
VF-18S Hornet Posted July 4, 2011 Posted July 4, 2011 is it worth getting, I had issues with my VF-25 always flopping backwards. It's getting to the point of boxing it.
boyarque Posted July 4, 2011 Posted July 4, 2011 is it worth getting, I had issues with my VF-25 always flopping backwards. It's getting to the point of boxing it. there's a bar locking to the forward underfuselage, so the back end wouldn't sag backwards.
Matrix Soul Posted July 4, 2011 Posted July 4, 2011 (edited) Thanks for your review MS. Your production values are top notch. Makes mine look like amateur hour. I wish it's my production value A friend of mine is trying to establish himself as a reviewer, so he is the one with all the cool stuff, I just show up with my toys. I like your reviews, keep up the great work! Edited July 4, 2011 by Matrix Soul
ff95gj Posted July 4, 2011 Posted July 4, 2011 I haven't watched MS's videos yet because I am in office... But I wish to ask if there is any trick to lock the crotch properly? My YF-29 has problems keeping his crotch stay iin place.
Matrix Soul Posted July 4, 2011 Posted July 4, 2011 (edited) I haven't had the instance where it unlocked on me unintentionally, did you press it in till you hear a light click? When you get a chance to watch the video, you'll see that through all my fiddling, the crotch bars never came undone, the head, however, is a whole other story Edited July 4, 2011 by Matrix Soul
ff95gj Posted July 4, 2011 Posted July 4, 2011 I haven't had the instance where it unlocked on me unintentionally, did you press it in till you hear a light click? When you get a chance to watch the video, you'll see that through all my fiddling, the crotch bars never came undone, the head, however, is a whole other story Yes I hear a click, but it doesn't hold well... It collapses if I lean it backwards a bit, and it is worse than my version 1's. I see no complaints on the same issue, so I suppose that must be my wrong-doing... I'll check out your video when I get home! Thanks!
Jasonc Posted July 4, 2011 Posted July 4, 2011 Got mine yesterday, but haven't had much time to look at it, being at Anime Expo. Anyways, I bought this on the gamble that it'd be worth it and not a floppy mess, and it seems to have paid off. The plasic seems a bit too "plasticky" but unfortunately, that seems to be the trademark of Bandai. Other than that, I've had no problems with mine, and hope none pop up.
Omegablue Posted July 4, 2011 Posted July 4, 2011 Can anyone please take pictures of it alongside a Yamato Vf-1 v2, both in Batroid and fighter modes please? Would like to see size comparisons... Thanx
kanedaestes Posted July 4, 2011 Posted July 4, 2011 yeah seriously where are the comparison pics other than with the VF-27??
UN Spacy Posted July 4, 2011 Author Posted July 4, 2011 Can anyone please take pictures of it alongside a Yamato Vf-1 v2, both in Batroid and fighter modes please? Would like to see size comparisons... Thanx
takatoys Posted July 4, 2011 Posted July 4, 2011 Nice picture! Kawamori is a genius. Bandai and Yamato are at their pinnacles too.
Magnus Posted July 4, 2011 Posted July 4, 2011 Man, they almost look like they don't even belong to the same universe as each other. The YF-29 is a lot more busy, but i'm hard pressed to say which one actually looks cooler.
Omegablue Posted July 4, 2011 Posted July 4, 2011 Thanx UN Spacy. I'm sold, and does look a whole lot more larger in size. Is it a true 1/60? As the pilot seems a bit small, but then again the helmet is also smaller...
eugimon Posted July 4, 2011 Posted July 4, 2011 (edited) Thanx UN Spacy. I'm sold, and does look a whole lot more larger in size. Is it a true 1/60? As the pilot seems a bit small, but then again the helmet is also smaller... it's definitely larger, it's almost 9cm longer than the vf-1. The pilots aren't in scale with each other at all though but it's really nothing to worry about. Even the various pilots from yamato aren't in scale with each other. nevermind gimpy at the end there, he's from the dx 25. The 29 has a fully sculpted figure. Edited July 4, 2011 by eugimon
SuperHobo Posted July 4, 2011 Posted July 4, 2011 Just wanted to post some pictures of potential areas of paint chipping or rubbing. Admittedly, I was a little rough with her (that's how I got a paint chip on the side of the head), but even when I was being gentle, some of the paint still chipped off even in places where I'm not sure how it happened. I still love this valkyrie even if she is a little beat up. If Bandai reissues the 29 I may buy another just leave in box.
raptormesh Posted July 4, 2011 Posted July 4, 2011 Wow that's a substantial amount of chipping, perhaps you can assume it's part of the weathering?
the9breaker Posted July 4, 2011 Posted July 4, 2011 (edited) Just wanted to post some pictures of potential areas of paint chipping or rubbing. Admittedly, I was a little rough with her (that's how I got a paint chip on the side of the head), but even when I was being gentle, some of the paint still chipped off even in places where I'm not sure how it happened. I still love this valkyrie even if she is a little beat up. If Bandai reissues the 29 I may buy another just leave in box. TREAT IT LIKE EVEN MORE GENTLER THAN A BABY. Some one was arguing with me I loved the DX line that I shouldn't have to treat it soooooo careful . Thanks for illustrating my point . These things happen, just have to extra careful. Sometimes you get the locking parts too hard to unlock, a tab to hard to nudge, a very stiff joint - its bound to happen - hence my whole point, if you gotta take 10 minutes to transform it, then to do so. You DON'T want to end up with a great EXPENSIVE transforming figure with a bunch of tampo scratching and paint peeled. Also - thank you for pictures, as its going to help me and any other well-concerned collectors in what areas we should be gentler with. Appreciate it brother. NineBreaker out. EDIT: Couldn't put more emphasize in the word EXPENSIVE!! Edited July 4, 2011 by the9breaker
SuperHobo Posted July 5, 2011 Posted July 5, 2011 (edited) TREAT IT LIKE EVEN MORE GENTLER THAN A BABY. Some one was arguing with me I loved the DX line that I shouldn't have to treat it soooooo careful . Thanks for illustrating my point . These things happen, just have to extra careful. Sometimes you get the locking parts too hard to unlock, a tab to hard to nudge, a very stiff joint - its bound to happen - hence my whole point, if you gotta take 10 minutes to transform it, then to do so. You DON'T want to end up with a great EXPENSIVE transforming figure with a bunch of tampo scratching and paint peeled. Also - thank you for pictures, as its going to help me and any other well-concerned collectors in what areas we should be gentler with. Appreciate it brother. NineBreaker out. EDIT: Couldn't put more emphasize in the word EXPENSIVE!! Actually, it usually takes me a good 20-25 minutes to cycle through fighter to battroid mode. I know these toys are expensive and I'm "usually" quite careful with my figures. However, in my defense my Yf-29 is a little odd, where one side of the figure chips paint the other doesn't. Its like I got a really moody one on my hands here, she doesn't know when to be sweet and when not to be a total b^&*&. Anyways, yeah I posted those pictures because I think those are some key spots to lookout for when it comes to paint chipping. I swear the right gerwalk joint hates me and something is caught underneath it that scrapes the white paint off. Edited July 5, 2011 by SuperHobo
Mommar Posted July 5, 2011 Posted July 5, 2011 Actually, it usually takes me a good 20-25 minutes to cycle through fighter to battroid mode. I know these toys are expensive and I'm "usually" quite careful with my figures. However, in my defense my Yf-29 is a little odd, where one side of the figure chips paint the other doesn't. Its like I got a really moody one on my hands here, she doesn't know when to be sweet and when not to be a total b^&*&. Anyways, yeah I posted those pictures because I think those are some key spots to lookout for when it comes to paint chipping. I swear the right gerwalk joint hates me and something is caught underneath it that scrapes the white paint off. Bi-polar!? Get out! Get out now! (...I should have bought one of these.)
Lolicon Posted July 5, 2011 Posted July 5, 2011 Has anyone tried putting a lacquer clear coat on theirs to protect the paint job?
anime52k8 Posted July 5, 2011 Posted July 5, 2011 EDIT: Couldn't put more emphasize in the word EXPENSIVE!! but I don't care if they're expensive, I want to be able to smack them into each other while making explosion noises.
charger69 Posted July 5, 2011 Posted July 5, 2011 Has anyone tried putting a lacquer clear coat on theirs to protect the paint job? Looks like we should better learn how to do it somehow
1/1 LowViz Lurker Posted July 5, 2011 Posted July 5, 2011 (edited) but I don't care if they're expensive, I want to be able to smack them into each other while making explosion noises. Thats why I bought a himetal valk. They are made of harder plastic than most of the valks at their size and they are freaking expensive. But the quality is good and I never have to worry about something cracking if it ever falls off a shelf or something like that. Please japanese kids, pressure bandai to give me a yf-19 and yf-21 himteal so I can zoom it around with my hands and have pretend dogfights. I will pay good money for mini-but-durable toys that are not a hassle to hold in your hands or fall apart just by breathing on them. Just be sure to include the fast pack pieces with them. Edited July 5, 2011 by 1/1 LowViz Lurker
MacrossJunkie Posted July 5, 2011 Posted July 5, 2011 (edited) Just wanted to post some pictures of potential areas of paint chipping or rubbing. Admittedly, I was a little rough with her (that's how I got a paint chip on the side of the head), but even when I was being gentle, some of the paint still chipped off even in places where I'm not sure how it happened. I still love this valkyrie even if she is a little beat up. If Bandai reissues the 29 I may buy another just leave in box. I had the same chips on the side of the head for mine and just as big as well. I'm not sure when that happened. Possibly when I was struggling to get the head back down into fighter mode. I also had a slight chip on the right shoulder also right in the same place where the part would be under the fold quartz. Fortunately, I just happened to have paint of the right color to fix the red paint chips. I used Tamiya Flat Red (XF-7) and painted the white plastic left behind by the chipped off red paint. The color seems to be an exact match in shade of red. Now I just need to fix the chipped black paint. Edited July 5, 2011 by MacrossJunkie
SuperHobo Posted July 5, 2011 Posted July 5, 2011 **Writes paint name down.** Macrossjunkie did you have to thin out the paint a little for better application?
MacrossJunkie Posted July 5, 2011 Posted July 5, 2011 (edited) Has anyone tried putting a lacquer clear coat on theirs to protect the paint job? Not lacquer, but I did start coating the valk in acrylic (Future). It is a complete pain in the ass though because both the glossy plastic and the paint seem to be very hydrophobic and it just pools up and it's very difficult to get it to coat. The lacquers for plastic models that I've tried in the past though were just junk on bandai's the DX VF-25 and 27. While they would coat the valks, they wouldn't adhere in the slightest. A bit of pressure or a light knock of a finger nail on the lacquer coats would cause them to lift off the surface causing something that looked like air bubbles since the coating was no longer attached to the surface. Back to the Future (not the movie, the floor wax made by Pledge), even air brushing was difficult, but it's your best bet. Just have to do a lot of coats and hope that you are able to coat the entire surface. Afterwards, once it was dry, I touched up parts that would not coat with a small brush. Strangely it's even harder to coat the paint they used than the plastic itself, particularly the black. The top side of fighter mode is done, so I have to do the bottom side next and then the areas uncovered by battroid mode. After that, I'll try doing a flat coat since Future is so shiny, it's like the valk is permanently wet. **Writes paint name down.** Macrossjunkie did you have to thin out the paint a little for better application? Nope. Actually, if you thinned it down, it would likely be difficult to get it to stick to the plastic due to the hydrophobic properties of the glossy plastic mentioned above and liquid's tendency to pool on it. I just took a small brush and applied the paint straight out of the bottle. Edited July 5, 2011 by MacrossJunkie
charger69 Posted July 5, 2011 Posted July 5, 2011 I used Tamiya Flat Red (XF-7) and painted white plastic left behind by the chipped off red paint. The color seems to be an exact match in shade of red. Just to emphasize
SuperHobo Posted July 5, 2011 Posted July 5, 2011 Nope. Actually, if you thinned it down, it would likely be difficult to get it to stick to the plastic due to the hydrophobic properties of the glossy plastic mentioned above and liquid's tendency to pool on it. I just took a small brush and applied the paint straight out of the bottle. Sounds good man I'll order some of that paint right away and give it a try and maybe stop by my local michael's arts and crafts to pick up some brushes mine are all....craptastic now.
anime52k8 Posted July 5, 2011 Posted July 5, 2011 Not lacquer, but I did start coating the valk in acrylic (Future). It is a complete pain in the ass though because both the glossy plastic and the paint seem to be very hydrophobic and it just pools up and it's very difficult to get it to coat. The lacquers for plastic models that I've tried in the past though were just junk on bandai's the DX VF-25 and 27. While they would coat the valks, they wouldn't adhere in the slightest. A bit of pressure or a light knock of a finger nail on the lacquer coats would cause them to lift off the surface causing something that looked like air bubbles since the coating was no longer attached to the surface. From personal experience I think the tendency to separate and pool is more a property of future in general rather than just the plastic. the gloss paint and plastic isn't going to help but I've found that even over well prepped, flat finish paint it tends to pool, separate and run. I like future, it's a really versatile product that gives a really tough finish, but it is a pain in the ass to work with. As for lacquer being really delicate, that the product of the plastic and prep work. Lacquer clear is really tough stuff when applied of properly finished PAINT. However, it does not like to go over bare plastic. I think what's going on is that lacquer works buy etching into the surface it goes over and bonding with it and it can't do that because it can't penetrate the surface of the molded plastic. If you sand the surface lightly it adheres much better (but then it would be very difficult to sand the surface of a finished toy without messing up the paint apps even worse).
MacrossJunkie Posted July 5, 2011 Posted July 5, 2011 From personal experience I think the tendency to separate and pool is more a property of future in general rather than just the plastic. the gloss paint and plastic isn't going to help but I've found that even over well prepped, flat finish paint it tends to pool, separate and run. I like future, it's a really versatile product that gives a really tough finish, but it is a pain in the ass to work with. As for lacquer being really delicate, that the product of the plastic and prep work. Lacquer clear is really tough stuff when applied of properly finished PAINT. However, it does not like to go over bare plastic. I think what's going on is that lacquer works buy etching into the surface it goes over and bonding with it and it can't do that because it can't penetrate the surface of the molded plastic. If you sand the surface lightly it adheres much better (but then it would be very difficult to sand the surface of a finished toy without messing up the paint apps even worse). Future does have a high surface tension, but I usually don't have trouble airbrushing it onto surfaces until I tried it on the Bandai plastics. It's even somewhat hard to coat with paint, which is not something I normally have difficulty with. As for the lacquer, I never said it was delicate. If you re-read what I said, I said that it doesn't adhere to the plastic. So when you put pressure on it or bump it, it forms something that looks like air bubbles due to the lacquer having lifted off the surface. And yes, sanding the surface would defeat the purpose of applying a protective layer of clear coat in the first place. Future, for the most part, seems to be doing a decent job of adhering to the surface of the toy after you successfully get it coated.
Jasonc Posted July 5, 2011 Posted July 5, 2011 After transforming mine, I had trouble putting the head back in during battroid to fighter. Son-of-a B would not go under. It took some figuring out, but at last, along with the arms, finally worked. Those parts are freakin' difficult. Needless to say, my 29 has the paint chipping on the head as well. All else is fine, but mine isn't nearly as extreme as the above pic. I have that flat red, and will touch up tomorrow. Was gonna try a gundam marker, but if the flat red works, I'm set.
m0n5t3r Posted July 5, 2011 Posted July 5, 2011 from "order stop", it now says "July Restock" http://www.hlj.com/product/BAN968698 guess what the local shop here told me about restocks arriving in 2-3 weeks time is true... if i can scrounge up enough spare cash, i might just get this... damn all of you and your pics!
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