Will Yamato ever get the Macross Frontier license?

[GianS]

Can anyone enlighten me... Does Bandai hold the exclusive rights to Macross Frontier? I mean will we ever see a VF-25/27 made by Yamato?

[BlueMax]

Yes. because as with Gundam, they practically sponsored Frontier. So, they have certain exclusive rights. So we won't be seeing Yamato VF-25s. Not for the next few years anyway.

[charger69]

Expect some breaking news in 2025

[lechuck]

Expect some breaking news in 2025

Graham will be sending out free replacement shoulders for the VF-25...

[GU-11]

Then I guess I won't have any problems saving up for the Yamato versions when they get eventually get made...someday.

...Hopefully within this decade.

Hope I'm not hijacking the thread, but speaking of MF, are the Bandai DX Chogokin VF-27's worth buying? I'm particularly concerned about the GERWALK mode. If it can pull of a picture perfect Yamato-quality GERWALK pose WITHOUT cheating (unlocking the hips), I might pick one up.

Edited December 4, 2010 by GU-11

[eugimon]

it has a better GERWALK than the 25 but it's still not as good as the GERWALK on yammie vf-1 or vf-11.

[GU-11]

it has a better GERWALK than the 25 but it's still not as good as the GERWALK on yammie vf-1 or vf-11.

Thanks for the info, Eugimon. In that case, I might pass on it. Heard the paint job on the nose is pretty fragile. If the GERWALK isn't perfect, it ain't worth my cash...unless is goes on 40% discount or something.

[eugimon]

Thanks for the info, Eugimon. In that case, I might pass on it. Heard the paint job on the nose is pretty fragile. If the GERWALK isn't perfect, it ain't worth my cash...unless is goes on 40% discount or something.

Well. I wouldn't pass on it because of the GERWALK. It's still pretty good. The plastic quality and paint quality are the same as the DX 25.

The nose paint isn't an issue as long as you transform it correctly.

edit: when I say the plastic quality is the same, I mean they will diminish in volume over time and eventually joints will become loose and floppy.

Edited December 4, 2010 by eugimon

[GU-11]

Well. I wouldn't pass on it because of the GERWALK. It's still pretty good. The plastic quality and paint quality are the same as the DX 25.

The nose paint isn't an issue as long as you transform it correctly.

Well, in that case, I'll put it up on my "opportunities list" and wait for a potential sale this Christmas. The price has been pretty marked up at my local hobby store (almost 300 USD), so I'll have to go Valk hunting online. I think I'll hit up AmiAmi and see if they've got them in stock. HLJ's sold out.

Thanks again.

[arrow]

With all the other unmade valks that Yamato has licenses for- they should concentrate on those. Like the VF-0D

[anime52k8]

edit: when I say the plastic quality is the same, I mean they will diminish in volume over time and eventually joints will become loose and floppy.

...only if you let Eugimon touch your copy of the toy that is.

[eugimon]

That's right, I'm the plastic vampire.

I steal the structural integrity of my DX toys to ensure my ver.2 /160 vf-1 toys don't spontaneously explode

Edited December 4, 2010 by eugimon

[GU-11]

edit: when I say the plastic quality is the same, I mean they will diminish in volume over time and eventually joints will become loose and floppy.

Damn, that does NOT sound good. Well, that just put the VF-27 in the same situation as the VT-1 Super Ostrich and it's knurled hinge pins. Great design and a really tempting buy, but with inherent flaws that might potentially leave you with a busted up fig. After that 3-month wait for the Nora's replacement parts, I'm staying away from potentially breakable figs. But you gotta admit--the VF-27 is a pretty kickass design.

To buy or not to buy...that is the question.

[BlueMax]

Buy it when the stores have a good discount or somebody is letting it go at a good price

[eugimon]

Damn, that does NOT sound good. Well, that just put the VF-27 in the same situation as the VT-1 Super Ostrich and it's knurled hinge pins. Great design and a really tempting buy, but with inherent flaws that might potentially leave you with a busted up fig. After that 3-month wait for the Nora's replacement parts, I'm staying away from potentially breakable figs. But you gotta admit--the VF-27 is a pretty kickass design.

To buy or not to buy...that is the question.

Well... I have 13 ver 2 vf-1 toys and 3 DX toys (one 25 and two 27) and only 1 yamato has a busted shoulder while all three DXs have become floppy.

And the busted shoulder is a lot easier to deal with.

[GU-11]

Buy it when the stores have a good discount or somebody is letting it go at a good price

Good idea. I bought the Nora at 65% discount from HLJ, so all that trouble I went through sending the thing back and waiting for the replacement to get shipped to me isn't as bad as if I paid full price. As for the VF-27, I ain't buying it unless it's at 50% off or more.

Well... I have 13 ver 2 vf-1 toys and 3 DX toys (one 25 and two 27) and only 1 yamato has a busted shoulder while all three DXs have become floppy.

And the busted shoulder is a lot easier to deal with.

True. BTW, would a coat of nail varnish or cyanoacrylate (aka instant cement) solve the problem? Usually fixes any loose joints for TF's, but I'm not sure about DX Chogokins, since they seem to be made of heavier plastic and might even contain some die-cast metal. If nail varnish or super glue (or even blutack) can solve the problem, then the VF-27 is still pretty much on my Christmas to-buy list.

EDIT: On second thought, never mind. I think I'll take your word for it and pass on the VF-27. The broken leg peg on my VF-1D that I had to replace was enough to royally piss me off, and if you're saying that a busted shoulder is a small problem compared to those floppy jointed Chogokins, then I don't think I'd want to touch it with a ten-foot pole.

Edited December 4, 2010 by GU-11

[eugimon]

Good idea. I bought the Nora at 65% discount from HLJ, so all that trouble I went through sending the thing back and waiting for the replacement to get shipped to me isn't as bad as if I paid full price. As for the VF-27, I ain't buying it unless it's at 50% off or more.

True. BTW, would a coat of nail varnish or cyanoacrylate (aka instant cement) solve the problem? Usually fixes any loose joints for TF's, but I'm not sure about DX Chogokins, since they seem to be made of heavier plastic and might even contain some die-cast metal. If nail varnish or super glue (or even blutack) can solve the problem, then the VF-27 is still pretty much on my Christmas to-buy list.

EDIT: On second thought, never mind. I think I'll take your word for it and pass on the VF-27. The broken leg peg on my VF-1D that I had to replace was enough to royally piss me off, and if you're saying that a busted shoulder is a small problem compared to those floppy jointed Chogokins, then I don't think I'd want to touch it with a ten-foot pole.

Well, it's just that to fix the shoulder it's a quick and easy dissemble. The parts on the DX that tend to go are the metal on metal shoulder bars, the metal ball/ plastic shoulder, the metal ball / plastic hips.

There's just a lot more to monkey around with compared to the one shoulder joint on the vf-1.

Look, I don't mean to scare you off of the 27. Despite its flaws I think it's a fine toy. The fact that it's starting to go loose on me despite me babying it is irksome but other than it's a good looking toy that fixed many of the issues with the dx 25 and it has great shelf presence.

[GU-11]

Well, it's just that to fix the shoulder it's a quick and easy dissemble. The parts on the DX that tend to go are the metal on metal shoulder bars, the metal ball/ plastic shoulder, the metal ball / plastic hips.

There's just a lot more to monkey around with compared to the one shoulder joint on the vf-1.

Look, I don't mean to scare you off of the 27. Despite its flaws I think it's a fine toy. The fact that it's starting to go loose on me despite me babying it is irksome but other than it's a good looking toy that fixed many of the issues with the dx 25 and it has great shelf presence.

Well, as long as you CAN actually fix the looseness, then I'd still be willing to buy one. I don't mind adding nail varnish or glue to the joints every few months. But if it'll eventually end up feeling like an unstrung puppet and there's nothing that can be done about it, then that's a different story.

Honestly, I'm not one to "play" with my Valks. The only time I'll fiddle around with them is to change poses for display. I don't suppose even that kind of minimal movement could cause wear and tear.

Could it?

The biggest deciding factor is whether the joints are fixable at all. If so, I'll just have to go with the original plan: wait for a 65% or more discount and grab it.

[EXO]

Remember when Bandai had exclusive rights to the Macross Seven license?

[Renato]

Remember when Bandai had exclusive rights to the Macross Seven license?

Like it was two years ago. Oh wait, it was!

Yeah, so it took them about a decade and a half to let go of that exclusive license.

We'll be grandfathers by the time anyone else starts making VF-25s.

[charger69]

Like it was two years ago. Oh wait, it was!

Yeah, so it took them about a decade and a half to let go of that exclusive license.

We'll be grandfathers by the time anyone else starts making VF-25s.

I've told you! Just be patient till 2025

[anime52k8]

Well, it's just that to fix the shoulder it's a quick and easy dissemble. The parts on the DX that tend to go are the metal on metal shoulder bars, the metal ball/ plastic shoulder, the metal ball / plastic hips.

There's just a lot more to monkey around with compared to the one shoulder joint on the vf-1.

you have an odd definition of quick and easy.

The shoulder and hip joints come apart with 1 screw each, it's not that hard. The shoulder bars are a little tricky since you have to take the chest plate apart first but it's no worse than having to take apart the back plate on a v.2 to get at the shoulder hing screws.

all that said, once you get the toy apart, putting a dab of super glue on a ball joint and putting it back together is a lot easier than removing and shaving down press fit pins or cobbling together new joints out of paper clips or whatever.

(also all of those joints are metal on metal joints with tiny plastic friction inserts.)

[eugimon]

you have an odd definition of quick and easy.

The shoulder and hip joints come apart with 1 screw each, it's not that hard. The shoulder bars are a little tricky since you have to take the chest plate apart first but it's no worse than having to take apart the back plate on a v.2 to get at the shoulder hing screws.

all that said, once you get the toy apart, putting a dab of super glue on a ball joint and putting it back together is a lot easier than removing and shaving down press fit pins or cobbling together new joints out of paper clips or whatever.

(also all of those joints are metal on metal joints with tiny plastic friction inserts.)

I've done both. While there's less work in fixing 1 joint on the DX versus 1 joint on the V2, there's far more problematic joints on the DX that need fixing: shoulders, shoulder swing bars, elbows, and hips.

So, just in my experience that's 3 out 3 DX that need joint rehabilitation after being shelf warmers or 1 out of 13 V2s that have needed repair. That's at least 12 joints that needed to be dissembled versus 1.

Yeah, I sure do have an odd definition of quick and easy.

Edited December 5, 2010 by eugimon