Which V2 1/60 Yamatos are good?

[BlueMax]

Basically to quote Graham: 1 breakage report of the 1D does not an epidemic make.

[bouncing boy77]

Not to be an alarmist, but isn't the VF-1D rumored to be safe? I rechecked the Scorched Earth site and the list says, "...VF-1D Trainer (V2) – I haven’t heard of a single broken one… rumor is that this release has smaller shoulder pins but I can’t substantiate that."

The VF-1D Virgin Road is supposed to be safe, or at least rumored to be.

I'm especially curious, since I own both the Hikaru version as well as the VR.

maybe it is safe. i have the 1st release V2 1D and i really can't tell (hard to see) if it has knurled pins or not. transformed it a few times and it still seems to be ok. not like the VT-1 which already showed stress mark on one of the hinges after i transformed it once.

the reason i included it in the list i made is because its one of the valks to be released right after the roy and hikaru's that had defective shoulders, and i think yamato was still unaware of the problem when the hikaru 1D came out. i stand corrected if the hikaru 1D indeed has smooth pins.

Edited August 23, 2010 by bouncing boy77

[thankheaven]

The first (Orange) VF-1D has knurled pins, they are just not as knurled as the VT-1's. The Virgin Road has completely smooth pins so i would recommend getting that if you want a 1D that is safe.

Edited August 23, 2010 by thankheaven

[GU-11]

Thanks for the info, guys!

As long as the Hikaru -1D's hinge pins are safe "enough" so that the hinges won't explode, that's all that matters.

[wintermute]

I've had a good experience with the VF-1D so far. That said, the pegs on the back of the air intakes seem to be just a tiny bit large and took some patience and carefully calibrated pressure to unseat for the first couple transformations. No problems at all with the shoulders. For context, it's been transformed 4 or 5 times so far.

[GU-11]

I've had a good experience with the VF-1D so far. That said, the pegs on the back of the air intakes seem to be just a tiny bit large and took some patience and carefully calibrated pressure to unseat for the first couple transformations. No problems at all with the shoulders. For context, it's been transformed 4 or 5 times so far.

Good to know. Thanks, man!

BTW, you might want to sand off the paint on the sides of the metal "hole" where the leg peg goes in, as Shindensetsu Kai advised. I did just that and the peg comes out just fine.

[Scream Man]

U know all this time, I misunderstood what the shoulder issue on the VF-1 was. I think I thought it was like the problems on the old Zeros. Then today I was skimming around Jenius's site and finally saw where the cracks occur in the shoulders. so i went and checked......and i have 4 cracked shoulders across 3 valks. VF-1J Hikaru, VF-1S Roy, and VF-1A Hikaru DYRL. Now i don't know if it's possible to get new shoulders still or not, but at the moment it doesn't seem to be. Since none had actually exploded yet, I decided to try something new; I used green stuff, a sculpting putty i use for toy customs. i filled the cracks and used a thin coat to help add some substance to the joints. Next I plan to try adding some thin layers of superglue to strengthen again, then add a small bit of paint to help hide the green colouring.

We'll see how it works soon

[1/1 LowViz Lurker]

The exploding shoulders thing was a yamato gimmick to be accurate to the scene when hikaru ejects the arms of his vf-1s in the Rain of death episode of SDFM.

Why do you all see it as a flaw? I think everyone should just buy all these exploding shoulder editions before they get phased out and become limited editions and the prices go higher.

[Scream Man]

Ive transformed the three units that I fixed back and forth a few times, and it seems to be OK now. All 3 are definitely a bit looser, but thats OK, its not a huge problem.

my DYRL valks didnt worry me quite as much, they mainly stay in one mode on display. But Hikarus 1J is a favourite of mine, and is often taken down to play with.

[markoN1]

Hi guys ive just brought Stand alone, without Super Parts Yamato 1/60 VF-1J Hikaru Ichijo , i think its December 2008 relise,

http://c1575362.cdn.cloudfiles.rackspacecloud.com/catalog/product/cache/1/image/265x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/Y/M/YMTO00101.jpg

Is this what you call v2 version, since im newbie.And i havent find anywhere any newer relise then this one.

Now ive been reserching alot about shoulder hinge joint problem, and i havent seen anyone having problem with this version, looks like its the VF-1S that had most reports. What are your experience with this one?

Alot ppl told me that they didnt had any problems with it.I think that proper handling and taking super care with shoulder are best solution to avoid any craks...Thanks!

Edited September 19, 2010 by markoN1

[1/1 LowViz Lurker]

'Version 1' just means the old 1/60 from years ago that yamato released. You can't buy these or the 1/72 macross plus yamato toys anymore.

version 2 or 'V2' = new yamato 1/60. (released after the 1/48 and replacing them as the "standard scale for all Perfect transformation valk toys from now")

'version' has nothing to do with the shoulder problem, it's just so people know which 1/60 yamato you are talking about. (older ones from ages ago, or recent ones)

I just used jenius review of these new 1/60 on anymoon for rough reference to guide me on which are safe. (there is a list of releases of the 1/60 yammies in the review)

I hope in future they do a V2 1/48 vf-1. I know I know, "it's not to scale with anything else". Neither are my transformers though. Just do it for VF-1 would be ok with me.

See if they can finally include the one gimmick that is missing from all the toys: the hatch for the pilot to exit from the valk in robot mode.

Start with the iconic orange vf-1d (or was that T?) from the tv series.

Edited September 21, 2010 by 1/1 LowViz Lurker

[markoN1]

I just checked anymoon website :

6) VF-1J Hikaru stand alone (V2) – potentially bad shoulders...

[Ignacio Ocamica]

I just checked anymoon website :

6) VF-1J Hikaru stand alone (V2) – potentially bad shoulders...

I bought the stand alone version the day it was released (was it one or two years ago??) and it's perfectly fine. It has survived numerous transformations!!!

The only cracked shoulders were from Roy's VF-1s Strike and Hikaru's VF-1A Super (replaced thanks to Graham!!). All my other v2 VF-1's are fine.

[markoN1]

Thank you for the answer, one member on forum said the same thing as you.

Good enough for me!

[ryoshoko]

I have 3 Version 2 Yamato VF-1,Super VF-1S Roy, Super VF-1J Hikaru,VE-1 Elintseeker. None of them have any issue, especially for 1s and 1J which are rumored to have. Also have a VF-1S Low Vis Roy with no problems too.

It may be the way the valk is being handled that causes most broken shoulder issue, like handling it as a typical transformer toy? I lift up the whole shoulder joint assembly from the bottom to pass over the locking tab, seems to be preventing the joint from breakage from normal handling.

Edited September 21, 2010 by ryoshoko

[Uxi]

IIRC people with the dreaded knurled pin were having them break after having never transformed them or on the first transformation. Worst of the lot anecdotally seemed to be the Hikaru GBP VF-1J with grey visor...

So far my TV Roy appears fine. Shoulders get a bit scratched from transformation but otherwise looks fine...

[Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0]

I have 3 Version 2 Yamato VF-1,Super VF-1S Roy, Super VF-1J Hikaru,VE-1 Elintseeker. None of them have any issue, especially for 1s and 1J which are rumored to have. Also have a VF-1S Low Vis Roy with no problems too.

It may be the way the valk is being handled that causes most broken shoulder issue, like handling it as a typical transformer toy? I lift up the whole shoulder joint assembly from the bottom to pass over the locking tab, seems to be preventing the joint from breakage from normal handling.

We thought that was the case initially but that only aids in alleviating stress on the hinge which may crack later on even if you do lift the hinge up gently over the locking tab. On my Focker 1S 2008 release I would gently lift the hinge up and even loosened the shoulders. Months later found cracks after not transforming for a while.

The factories' switch to un-knurled pins seems to have fixed the problem, as all the Max releases had no knurled shoulder pins and we have not come across 1 reported breakage of those, and they have been out for quite a while now.

[ryoshoko]

We thought that was the case initially but that only aids in alleviating stress on the hinge which may crack later on even if you do lift the hinge up gently over the locking tab. On my Focker 1S 2008 release I would gently lift the hinge up and even loosened the shoulders. Months later found cracks after not transforming for a while.

The factories' switch to un-knurled pins seems to have fixed the problem, as all the Max releases had no knurled shoulder pins and we have not come across 1 reported breakage of those, and they have been out for quite a while now.

oh.. I better check my VF-1S Roy Focker then.. Been in battloid mode holding his gunpod with both arms. Would really suck alot if it breaks, since it was handled with extra care. If it's fine, maybe I will apply superglue to the plastic hinge. Should not have any worries for the elintseeker and low vis 1S.

[pud333]

This is the VF-1S I got. Smooth pins. I've transformed it a whole bunch of times, with absolutely no problems. I love this thing.

[David Hingtgen]

Yup--when I STOPPED transforming my Roy, the hinges started cracking. (as in, went from once a week to once a month to "not transforming at all for several months just in case")----they got worse just sitting there, not being transformed.

In short---if the hinges are going to crack, THEY WILL CRACK. And there's nothing you can do about it--even if you leave it MISB and never expose it to light---it may take a little longer, but if it's going to happen--it'll happen.