To sticker or not to sticker...

[Kelsain]

Curious as to where you guys stand on this.

I'm torn on whether to apply the stickers to my VF-11B, especially since the instruction manual doesn't give much guidance.

Anyone who has stickered the 11B, can you post pics of where you put them?

Edited July 19, 2010 by Kelsain

[Golden Arms]

I sticker my valks. I still have 2 valks and GBP armor that need to be stickered. If you wash the toy with alcohol and trrim down the stickers before applying, you can get some very good results. For darker toys like the VF-11 I haven't stickered them with as much detail as some of the other toys. Yamato should include a sheet of white stickers for the darker releases, which they rarely do. The red lettering doesn't show as well as the white stickers.

[DARKWIND]

Initialy it depends on the valk.

But since I'm pretty good with stickers and terrible with waterslides, I tend to leave the canvas clean per-se.

Unless its missing a detail with out them.

[DWN013]

I chose yes. I've never felt that adding what I would deem crucial details such as the rescue arrows, pilot name, carrier name, and a few other markings, made my valks less anime accurate... I figure the animation budget of SDFM was too modest for them to constantly draw them in there. But in my 'mind's eye' or whatever, the SDFM valks have those markings.

If I had the patience, I would apply the NO STEP markings to the slats and flaps, but I never do. F that, man.

[David Hingtgen]

Same here--carrier, pilot name, rescue arrows, ejection triangles. Just the "bare minimum" "obvious" markings. (this also follows real-world repaints---out on a carrier, a plane rarely gets ALL the no step markings etc put back on, but a few things are ALWAYS there, even if nearly everything else got left off)

[derex3592]

I am usually a sticker/decal freak when it comes to planes of any kind, but there is a part of me that because of the way a lot of Yamato stickers look after placement that makes me sometimes shy away from using all of them, especially on the darker color planes....The white and off white planes though look pretty darn good all with all the "No Steps" in red or black or whatever. Along with doing panel lines, it really ads a lot of detail. That being said, I also have this weird craving with my new VF-1S TV to leave it with just that "TV" anime look, and only do the minimum "must have" decals....

[Kyp Durron]

I did all the markings including the "no step" markings on the wings for my DRYL? Roy 1S. I don't think I'll ever go that far again with any other Valk and just stick to the necessary ones that David mentioned.

-Kyp

Edited July 18, 2010 by Kyp Durron

[Damaramu]

The new 1/60's look great right out of the box. I think too many decals make them look busy. If I had my druthers, I'd probably just weather/panel line mine - which I have yet to do.

[Roy Focker]

I used like 80% of the stickers for the 1/48. I have too many "do not step" stickers on the wings.

I use very few to none with the VF-1 1/60. I just take a look at some offical art and kinda go with that.

[GU-11]

I never use most of the stickers. They might peel over time if not clear coated. I personally prefer a more anime-accurate look, so the only stickers I might ever apply are the flying kite symbols on the FAST packs and the pilot's name on the canopy.

[derex3592]

Well, my water slide decals HLJ gave me with my VF-22, turns out they are 1:48...GReeeaaaaat.....REALLY wanted to do up my TV Roy with them......oh well...anybody want a set of water slide VF-1 1:48 decals???? :(

[anubis20]

From my gundam building days, I came to the conclusion that stickers suck big time. Now if Yamato would include / sell me some waterslides or dry transfers then I would slap them all over my valks but as it is they stay unstickered. I wish I could put the wolfpack markings on my 0A

[Ignacio Ocamica]

Sticker them, at least the essential markings!!!

The only valks I didn't sticker are the YF-21, VF-22's and the VF-11B (they come with the macross kite tampoed on!!).

[ff95gj]

Please add an option: use decals.

I've got some nice third party decals for my 1/60...

[MacrossJunkie]

Curious as to where you guys stand on this.

I'm torn on whether to apply the stickers to my VF-11B, especially since the instruction manual doesn't give much guidance.

Anyone who has stickered the 11B, can you post pics of where you put them?

I'm one of those that applies the stickers, but I try to trim them right to the edge to minimize the sticker look.

Since there were no Hasegawa models for the VF-11, I just went by marking conventions used by the YF-19 and VF-1.

For the fighter itself, I have "No Step" markings on the wings and canards as shown in the pics, "Danger" above the secondary intakes and overflow outlets and above and below the maneuvering thrusters below the cockpit. "No Step" on the edge of the air brakes, the trailing edge of the shield. I've included a pic of the 11C which I've marked identically (except for the "Rescue" marking which I opted not to apply on the 11C), but should be easier to see against the white. You can see where I've put the other stickers as well.

For the FAST packs, I went to the VF-1's for some inspiration.

Edit: Added side view to show stickers not visible from the top.

Edited July 19, 2010 by MacrossJunkie

[anubis20]

Please add an option: use decals.

I've got some nice third party decals for my 1/60...

Where are said decals from?? I'd love to get my hands on some.

[Kelsain]

I'm one of those that applies the stickers, but I try to trim them right to the edge to minimize the sticker look.

Since there were no Hasegawa models for the VF-11, I just went by marking conventions used by the YF-19 and VF-1.

Thanks for posting pics!! Added 4th option for decals. If this is what you do, please be kind and share your source with others!

[Mommar]

I'm one of those that applies the stickers, but I try to trim them right to the edge to minimize the sticker look.

Since there were no Hasegawa models for the VF-11, I just went by marking conventions used by the YF-19 and VF-1.

For the fighter itself, I have "No Step" markings on the wings and canards as shown in the pics, "Danger" above the secondary intakes and overflow outlets and above and below the maneuvering thrusters below the cockpit. "No Step" on the edge of the air brakes, the trailing edge of the shield. I've included a pic of the 11C which I've marked identically (except for the "Rescue" marking which I opted not to apply on the 11C), but should be easier to see against the white. You can see where I've put the other stickers as well.

For the FAST packs, I went to the VF-1's for some inspiration.

I really love what you did with that 11C

[mickyg]

Where are said decals from?? I'd love to get my hands on some.

Ditto! I'd like to get something happening for my valks too. I'm not a fan of the thickness that's obvious with stickers. They're great, detail wise, but you just can't get past that thick, plastic look of stickers and with decals, yes they're a pain but at least they're thin enough to look realistic. To me at least.

[Chronocidal]

I've actually so far avoided using any of my Yammie stickers, even on the 1/48. It's not so much that I don't like the detail, I just have bad memories of decals peeling off of old toys, and would rather not repeat that on things I keep on display like models.

Plus, keeping them clean makes it easier to take them apart and fiddle, since you don't have to worry about scraping them off, or cutting the ones that go across seam lines.

[Muzaffar]

I trim every sticker I can (even the NO STEPs) and yes they do look much better and natural than just peeling and sticking em. It's friggin painstaking but the end results are perfect and I find it relaxing to just focus on applying them just right. Also I have been wanting to do some panel lining on my planes. Can someone recommend a thread for that please or any advice for materials and pens to use?

[GU-11]

I trim every sticker I can (even the NO STEPs) and yes they do look much better and natural than just peeling and sticking em. It's friggin painstaking but the end results are perfect and I find it relaxing to just focus on applying them just right. Also I have been wanting to do some panel lining on my planes. Can someone recommend a thread for that please or any advice for materials and pens to use?

Just my two cents' worth, but you could get some fine-tip Gundam markers for panel-lining. They mostly come in gray and black. The biggest difference between Gundam markers and generic felt-tip pens are that the tips of the Gundam ones are much thinner. The general rule is that you should apply black panel lines on white surfaces, and gray lines on other colors. Of course, it's all a matter of taste.

A popular tip when panel lining, is that you can erase mistakes or thin out thick lines that run over the panel lines by using an eraser and IMMEDIATELY rubbing off the excess ink. It only works within the first five seconds or so. Once the ink dries, it doesn't come off and will at best smudge the surface.

I also like to create "pseudo weathering" along "indents" (recessed areas and panels like those found under certain air brake panels and landing gear covers) by using a piece of tissue to smudge up the inked sides to simulate a build-up of grime. DISCLAIMER: Try this at your own risk. Just because I like the way the finish looks, doesn't mean you will too.

[ae_productions]

Interesting poll...

It's always fun to see what other collectors do with their Valks.

[anime52k8]

The general rule is that you should apply black panel lines on white surfaces, and gray lines on other colors. Of course, it's all a matter of taste.

who's rule is this? I've never heard it suggested that you should do it that way before. The most common method I've seen is gray on white (as it's more subtle) and black on colors (as it will still be visible against the darker background) black marker on white plastic really only works if you're going for a very heavy "cartoonish" look.

BTW; if you're going to use gundam markers, you should use either Fine tip or Real touch Gundam markers, not the the regular paint pen types.

[MacrossJunkie]

I trim every sticker I can (even the NO STEPs) and yes they do look much better and natural than just peeling and sticking em. It's friggin painstaking but the end results are perfect and I find it relaxing to just focus on applying them just right. Also I have been wanting to do some panel lining on my planes. Can someone recommend a thread for that please or any advice for materials and pens to use?

If all you're looking for is doing panel lines, I'd say to try some Promodellers weathering wash. The results look great. I've tried different things like enamel or acrylic paint diluted with thinner, gundam markers, and the Promodellers, and I have to say I like using the Promodellers weather wash the most as far as results and ease of cleaning up mistakes go.

Thinned enamel paint looks good, but the smells can be a bit much and can be hard to remove once dry and can sometimes leave stains even when not dried yet. Gundam markers are easy to apply, but sometimes sink into the plastic or paint immediately. It's especially hard to get off those painted surfaces. I've had a few times where I screwed up and tried to wipe it off immediately but wouldn't come off completely, even with the use of rubbing alcohol. It also looks too artificial, imo. I still use gundam markers, but only very sparingly in certain situations and rarely for panel lining now.

For the promodellers wash, I just add a few drops of dishwashing soap into the bottle to break up the tension and it's ready for use. Brush over a surface or just apply directly to a panel line. It flows into the lines and the lines are very fine like the results of thinned enamel paint. The color comes from clay and is easy to just wipe up with a paper towel dampened with water or saliva. There are no harmful vapors to worry about unlike paint thinner and is non-toxic. Also, you can be lazy and leave it on a brush and let it dry, it's easy to clean off by rubbing it under some warm water.

[GU-11]

who's rule is this? I've never heard it suggested that you should do it that way before. The most common method I've seen is gray on white (as it's more subtle) and black on colors (as it will still be visible against the darker background) black marker on white plastic really only works if you're going for a very heavy "cartoonish" look.

BTW; if you're going to use gundam markers, you should use either Fine tip or Real touch Gundam markers, not the the regular paint pen types.

Oops, typo snafu! I typed it the other way around; didn't think I needed to proof-read it.

BTW, I also prefer to use gray on white on Gundam kits for a more realistic look.

[ff95gj]

They should thank me for promoting their product.

http://www.ibuyxyz.com/items/toys/action-figures/macross~af-/decal_60vf1-detail.htm

[Graham]

I do think that Yamato's stickers have greatly improved in quality over the years. They are now much thinner, adhere better and longer and have smaller clear borders than in the past.

That said, I only use the bare minimum stickers on my Valks, usually just the UN Spacy Kite emblem on the Valk if necessary and the pilot name and of course the Skull Squadron or UN Spacy Kite for the VF-1's FAST packs.

I would never use decals on transfoming toys. Decals are far too fragile IMO and a pain in the ass to work with.

Graham

[David Hingtgen]

A bit OT, but looking over that decal sheet---anyone have a spare cockpit decal from that set? I could really use one, but don't want to have to set up an account and buy an entire set just for that one decal.

[Muzaffar]

The most difficult decals to apply were for the cockpit display for the original v1 1/60 and the 1/48s. I mean you had to trim them so close and than you needed a magnifying glass and nerves of steel to get those just right. What a rush.

And thank you guys for all the panel lining tips and stuff. I guess I'll get a nice and cheap Vf-1A to try out all the techniques on.

Edited July 20, 2010 by Muzaffar

[mickyg]

They should thank me for promoting their product.

http://www.ibuyxyz.com/items/toys/action-figures/macross~af-/decal_60vf1-detail.htm

They sold me my first decal sheet on ebay. Or I bought my first one there... It's not like they forced me to buy it!

Anyway, my decals were all cracked on the surface and though I contacted them immediately, and got a reply back pretty quickly, advising me of a potential solution, I never got a resolution. ff9ggj, I hope yours were better quality because this seems to be the only game in town. I kinda have a bad taste in my mouth from my experience. The detail is amazing but the quality of the top coat applied to the decals at the factory was at least for mine, lacking. I think WM Cheng had similar results with his. Here's hoping they've improved!

[Robelwell202]

I've asked this before, and I'll ask again.

Anyone know a place I could get water-slide decals for a 1/60 Destroid Tomahawk?

[ff95gj]

They sold me my first decal sheet on ebay. Or I bought my first one there... It's not like they forced me to buy it!

Anyway, my decals were all cracked on the surface and though I contacted them immediately, and got a reply back pretty quickly, advising me of a potential solution, I never got a resolution. ff9ggj, I hope yours were better quality because this seems to be the only game in town. I kinda have a bad taste in my mouth from my experience. The detail is amazing but the quality of the top coat applied to the decals at the factory was at least for mine, lacking. I think WM Cheng had similar results with his. Here's hoping they've improved!

I've experienced no problem with mine... And once I applied those decal fluids (two kinds of them) they adhered very nicely. I needed to scratch pretty hard when I tried to remove a skull logo on the backpack.

When you said "cracked", do you mean they are cracked before you applied them or after?

Anyhow, I advise other MWers to ask for other opinions before purchasing...

[raptormesh]

From my gundam building days, I came to the conclusion that stickers suck big time. Now if Yamato would include / sell me some waterslides or dry transfers then I would slap them all over my valks but as it is they stay unstickered. I wish I could put the wolfpack markings on my 0A

I used the Wolfpack stickers on my 0A and it turned out a dream. Had to do a lot of trimming on every sticker to make it work though.

[mickyg]

I've experienced no problem with mine... And once I applied those decal fluids (two kinds of them) they adhered very nicely. I needed to scratch pretty hard when I tried to remove a skull logo on the backpack.

When you said "cracked", do you mean they are cracked before you applied them or after?

Based on the little I know of decal making, I think the final clear layer that gets applied to seal in the printed markings is what was cracked on mine. I assumed it was just the carrier film or the part that disolves when you get them wet but was a bit frustrated to find that it was in fact the clear, protective layer. The print underneath is flawless and very detailed. It was only the clear, top layer that has this cracked look to it. I took some pictures and posted them in a thread some time last year. The effect is obvious if you're looking closely. But not a big deal from a distance. And also likely to be something that would fill in nicely if you apply future or another gloss layer over the top of the decals.

And just as likely, the problem might be fixed by now. Either way, as I mentioned before, they're the only game in town. Plus, the price is only $5 and as I've also mentioned the detail is very good. I'd say, even with my less than fatastic experience, I'd still go this route again.

Now, if they'd just make some low vis markings, I'd be one happy camper!