What do you do with a VF-1D with a Broken Peg?

[GU-11]

Followup to my unfortunate experience with a defective VF-1D. For those who haven't read my post on this, I bought a VF-1D during HLJ's sale, and found that the peg on the leg just above the intake broke off when I tried to detach it from the body, just like Macross Fanboy's. I glued it back on yesterday, and waited for it to cure overnight in Battroid mode.

After letting the glue cure overnight, I tried transforming the VF-1D back into fighter mode today, and the peg still came off the leg. I'm giving it another try with more glue this time.

But just in case, can I still contact HLJ for a leg replacement? I'm worried that they might refuse a replacement part since I attempted to fix it myself. Also, do I need to attach photographic evidence to prove that the leg is indeed broken?

In any case, I get the feeling that the peg isn't exactly necessary to the hold the leg in place during GERWALK or fighter modes, since the hip bar itself is secured by...actually, I'm not sure what you call it--those two semi-circular things that the hip bar snaps onto in GERWALK and fighter modes. If the peg's not crucial, I might just leave it as it is.

I really need some advice here, guys.

[macrossnake]

Followup to my unfortunate experience with a defective VF-1D. For those who haven't read my post on this, I bought a VF-1D during HLJ's sale, and found that the peg on the leg just above the intake broke off when I tried to detach it from the body, just like Macross Fanboy's. I glued it back on yesterday, and waited for it to cure overnight in Battroid mode.

After letting the glue cure overnight, I tried transforming the VF-1D back into fighter mode today, and the peg still came off the leg. I'm giving it another try with more glue this time.

But just in case, can I still contact HLJ for a leg replacement? I'm worried that they might refuse a replacement part since I attempted to fix it myself. Also, do I need to attach photographic evidence to prove that the leg is indeed broken?

In any case, I get the feeling that the peg isn't exactly necessary to the hold the leg in place during GERWALK or fighter modes, since the hip bar itself is secured by...actually, I'm not sure what you call it--those two semi-circular things that the hip bar snaps onto in GERWALK and fighter modes. If the peg's not crucial, I might just leave it as it is.

I really need some advice here, guys.

Sorry to hear what happen to your 1D.

I am too waiting for my 1D from HLJ.

I think HLJ will help you out to get your replacement parts. Did you take any photos from the boken parts before you 'fix' them? HLJ usually ask for these, so they can ask the replacement for you...

[GU-11]

Sorry to hear what happen to your 1D.

I am too waiting for my 1D from HLJ.

I think HLJ will help you out to get your replacement parts. Did you take any photos from the boken parts before you 'fix' them? HLJ usually ask for these, so they can ask the replacement for you...

Thanks for replying, Macrossnake.

While I haven't taken pictures prior to fixing the peg, it still looks exactly like I haven't fixed it at all. Since the cyanoacrylate dries clear, it won't show on the photo unless I angle it to reflect ambient light.

I guess I should start taking some pics and send them to HLJ.

Yamato...I hate myself for loving you, damn it!

[GU-11]

Another update to the VF-1D fiasco. I just noticed that the canopy on mine was yellowed. Just to make sure, I tried looking through it, and sure enough, everything filtered through it was tinted yellow. Even when I first lifted the flap on the box, I noticed the VF-1D had a weird tone of beige, turns out it was UV damage. What, do the factories leave their parts out in the sun to bake?

It's official: I just paid good money for old stock with a broken right leg peg. Great, just mother-effing great....

[charger69]

I am waiting for my VF-1D from HLJ too.

Let's share the condition of ours macrossnake.

[Vi-RS]

Followup to my unfortunate experience with a defective VF-1D. For those who haven't read my post on this, I bought a VF-1D during HLJ's sale, and found that the peg on the leg just above the intake broke off when I tried to detach it from the body, just like Macross Fanboy's. I glued it back on yesterday, and waited for it to cure overnight in Battroid mode.

After letting the glue cure overnight, I tried transforming the VF-1D back into fighter mode today, and the peg still came off the leg. I'm giving it another try with more glue this time.

But just in case, can I still contact HLJ for a leg replacement? I'm worried that they might refuse a replacement part since I attempted to fix it myself. Also, do I need to attach photographic evidence to prove that the leg is indeed broken?

In any case, I get the feeling that the peg isn't exactly necessary to the hold the leg in place during GERWALK or fighter modes, since the hip bar itself is secured by...actually, I'm not sure what you call it--those two semi-circular things that the hip bar snaps onto in GERWALK and fighter modes. If the peg's not crucial, I might just leave it as it is.

I really need some advice here, guys.

What's wrong with my Yamato, Bandai, etc.

[Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0]

To prevent peg breakages like this, it might help to scrape some of the paint off of the diecast piece that the peg plugs into. I've found that this is the source of tension for that peg.

[GU-11]

To prevent peg breakages like this, it might help to scrape some of the paint off of the diecast piece that the peg plugs into. I've found that this is the source of tension for that peg.

Whoa, you mean this peg problem has happened before?

In any case, do you mean I should scrape off the paint on the "inside" sides of the diecast piece where the peg plugs into it? Thanks man, I'll give that a try.

[Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0]

Whoa, you mean this peg problem has happened before?

In any case, do you mean I should scrape off the paint on the "inside" sides of the diecast piece where the peg plugs into it? Thanks man, I'll give that a try.

Yep that area. It cracked some of the peg on my VF-1A Super Hikaru last year. Alternatively, you can try dislodging or pulling the pegs out from the diecast plate by just pulling straight down a bit. Sometimes it's enough to get the peg out. Depending on how tight the valk is, this can work(usually on the tighter releases). On my Roy 1S however, and Max 1A, I can simply bend the lower legs inwards a bit to get the peg out.

[bowman]

Another update to the VF-1D fiasco. I just noticed that the canopy on mine was yellowed. Just to make sure, I tried looking through it, and sure enough, everything filtered through it was tinted yellow. Even when I first lifted the flap on the box, I noticed the VF-1D had a weird tone of beige, turns out it was UV damage. What, do the factories leave their parts out in the sun to bake?

It's official: I just paid good money for old stock with a broken right leg peg. Great, just mother-effing great....

Any photos to share with us on the canopy and the peg? What a luck to get old stock

[GU-11]

Yep that area. It cracked some of the peg on my VF-1A Super Hikaru last year. Alternatively, you can try dislodging or pulling the pegs out from the diecast plate by just pulling straight down a bit. Sometimes it's enough to get the peg out. Depending on how tight the valk is, this can work(usually on the tighter releases). On my Roy 1S however, and Max 1A, I can simply bend the lower legs inwards a bit to get the peg out.

A thousand thanks for the tips, man! Just one thing: wouldn't the sideways "locking tab" get in the way if I just pulled downward? Would it be all right if I tried gently prying it with tweezers or something first?

When I first transformed my VF-1D Virgin Road, the peg was pretty stressed, too. I was thinking of filing down the peg a little, but then I got cold feet--what if I filed too much, and the thing ends up being too loose?

Sheesh, for the kind of money we're paying for this stuff, these problems shouldn't even exist.

Any photos to share with us on the canopy and the peg? What a luck to get old stock

About to go get some batteries for my digital camera later. Tomorrow, I'll post a copy of the pics I plan to send to HLJ for a replacement right leg for the VF-1D.

Yeah, it's no fun getting jipped like that. I wonder if I can push my luck and try to get HLJ to send me another VF-1D. Then again, I hate to go through the hassle of sending the one I've got back to them.

[GU-11]

After taking several photos with a proper camera, it seems that the -1D's beige/tan is indeed the same tone as the promo pics. I guess it just looks darker in person. I gladly announce that the yellowed color was just my mistake.

One problem down, two to go.

As for the cockpit canopy, the yellowed tint is visible on the photos I've attached to this post (sorry about the rather grainy pics; the pics were taken indoors at night under fluorescent lighting, using a shitty first gen digital camera). There's only a slight tint, but you can still see it.

The pics of the broken peg are kind of blurred, but it's the best I can do, as the camera I had doesn't handle closeups too well. You might want to load the image on a new tab and have it resized to fit the browser for a clearer view.

Edited June 24, 2010 by GU-11

[anime52k8]

As for the cockpit canopy, the yellowed tint is visible on the photos I've attached to this post (sorry about the rather grainy pics; the pics were taken indoors at night under fluorescent lighting, using a shitty first gen digital camera). There's only a slight tint, but you can still see it.

Hard to tell from your pics but it looks like that's just the rainbow tint coating they put on (which can look yellow in certain light)

[GU-11]

Hard to tell from your pics but it looks like that's just the rainbow tint coating they put on (which can look yellow in certain light)

I certainly hope you're right. I think I'll try it with the TV Max's canopy and see if it exhibits the same yellowish tint.

[Old Man]

Hard to tell from your pics but it looks like that's just the rainbow tint coating they put on (which can look yellow in certain light)

I agree. I just opened up my VF-1D today and I couldn't discern whether or not the canopy had yellowed or if it was just the rainbow coating. I will tell you that the beige coloring on the Valk certainly looks different depending on the lighting. When I first saw it I thought mine was experiencing the "jaundice" affect. Still haven't had a chance to transform her yet. I'll keep you all posted. Still waiting on those comparison pictures from GU-11, since the VF-1D is the only Valk I have opened with the rainbow coating.

[GU-11]

Here are a couple of comparison pics using the TV VF-1A Max. Same camera, same settings.

I don't know if it's just me, but it looks as if the yellow is more obvious on the VF-1D's canopy than on the TV Max's.

[Vi-RS]

No offense but you guys are too over reacted with the Yamato. yellowing, different shade,etc

The canopy is clear and it absorbs and reflects the lights from its environment.

[Froy]

My 1D has a rainbow tint, compared to the tint on the VF-11 is too faded

Then, Should the 1D have rainbow tint? and if it has: it should be noticeable as the tint on the VF-11?

VF-11 is the only valk whit rainbow tint I own.

[GU-11]

No offense but you guys are too over reacted with the Yamato. yellowing, different shade,etc

The canopy is clear and it absorbs and reflects the lights from its environment.

The canopy on mine has minimal to no rainbow effect, and anything you see through it is tinted yellow. While I admit that the beige/tan thing was my bad, there's no mistaking this one. If you compare the photos I took of the VF-1D's canopy and that of the TV Max (same camera, same settings, same time and environment), you'll see that the paper seen through the Max is still white, but is tinted yellow through the -1D. Believe me, I sincerely wish it's just a case of over-reaction.

FYI, the -1D's canopy has such minimal rainbow effect that its almost unnoticeable, so it can't be the effects of that "soap bubble" film.

My 1D has a rainbow tint, compared to the tint on the VF-11 is too faded

Then, Should the 1D have rainbow tint? and if it has: it should be noticeable as the tint on the VF-11?

VF-11 is the only valk whit rainbow tint I own.

Same thing here, Froy. Compared to the other VF's with the rainbow effect on their canopies, the -1D's is almost unnoticeable. I just hope yours isn't yellowed like mine.

BTW, I was wondering if there's any way I can replace the canopy myself, if I asked HLJ to send me a new one? Can't find any screws to split up the cockpit, but if seems if I remove the seats, I might be able to get to it.

If there's actually a way to safely remove the canopy, someone please tell me. I'll send a request for a replacement canopy ASAP.

And in case you're curious, HLJ just sent me a cookie-cutter reply saying they're working on sending a replacement for that busted up -1D leg. Totally dodged my request for a replacement VF-1D.

[Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0]

Just a heads up, the tints on V2 1/60 VF-1 valks are different on some. IIRC not all of them share the same type of tint.

[GU-11]

Just a heads up, the tints on V2 1/60 VF-1 valks are different on some. IIRC not all of them share the same type of tint.

By tints, did you mean the rainbow effect or the actual coloration of the plastic canopy itself?

[Vi-RS]

By tints, did you mean the rainbow effect or the actual coloration of the plastic canopy itself?

The canopy is clear in the first place, tinted with the rainbow effect. The rainbow effect is a layer of tinting.

Not all tinting is the same for all V2. The first couple release is thicker on Hikaru VF-1A and Roy VF-1S. I think you guys just take way over reacted with Yamato. lol

[GU-11]

The canopy is clear in the first place, tinted with the rainbow effect. The rainbow effect is a layer of tinting.

Not all tinting is the same for all V2. The first couple release is thicker on Hikaru VF-1A and Roy VF-1S. I think you guys just take way over reacted with Yamato. lol

Honestly, I'm not particular about how thick or thin the layer of tinting is, but the whole damn plastic canopy is just yellowed. I checked the tiny plastic pegs and the part that swings the canopy open and close, and those parts are yellowed as well. Now they can't possibly have tinted those parts too, now can they?

Over-reacting or not, I'll send in a request anyway and see if HLJ can get me a new canopy. If not, I'll just have to get used to it, and keep telling myself the yellowish hue of the canopy adds character to the VF-1D.

Edited June 26, 2010 by GU-11

[Vi-RS]

Honestly, I'm not particular about how thick or thin the layer of tinting is, but the whole damn plastic canopy is just yellowed. I checked the tiny plastic pegs and the part that swings the canopy open and close, and those parts are yellowed as well. Now they can't possibly have tinted those parts too, now can they?

Over-reacting or not, I'll send in a request anyway and see if HLJ can get me a new canopy. If not, I'll just have to get used to it, and keep telling myself the yellowish hue of the canopy adds character to the VF-1D.

I hate to tell you this, but do you really expect a clear component or glass to turn clear when you place it on a beige color medium (surface)?

Will you complain the clear component doesn't turn clear on Max VF-1J but turns bluish?

Light reflects differently on differnt medium, it's called physics.

[GU-11]

Since there's basically nothing much I can do about this right now anyway, I'll agree to disagree. There's no way for you to see the canopy in person, and the entry level camera I've got just can't get a hi-rez shot of the thing to show you what I see. There's really no point in either of us debating over this anymore.

Actually, I think I'm even starting to get used to the yellowish tint.

All that's left now is to fix up the leg.

Edited June 26, 2010 by GU-11

[sidearmsalpha]

Regarding the peg, I broke one on a VF-1A Hikaru by dislodging the leg improperly or with too much force, I guess. You really have to be careful when detaching the legs. Never had this happen (or anything break) on a 1/48 and I was rougher with those.

[wintermute]

GU11-

Dude, I'm worried that the same thing is goin to happen to my VF-1D from the same sale. I'm having trouble detaching both of the legs on this peg. It looks like the plastic might be fatigued, but I'm not sure, because I haven't gotten the legs off yet. I was wondering what you folks would do -- I can get the pegs to wiggle out a little, but not all the way. I was thinking of getting a credit card or a thin piece of polystyrene and trying to gently pry them out (and then remove some of the paint from the metal piece the peg goes into).

Thoughts?

Edited June 27, 2010 by wintermute

[Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0]

By tints, did you mean the rainbow effect or the actual coloration of the plastic canopy itself?

Both.

[Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0]

Regarding the peg, I broke one on a VF-1A Hikaru by dislodging the leg improperly or with too much force, I guess. You really have to be careful when detaching the legs. Never had this happen (or anything break) on a 1/48 and I was rougher with those.

The 1/48 had more clearance for the peg, but in doing so, was more prone to misalignment of the intakes. Still, I prefer that to the V2 1/60's peg/socket section above the intakes.

With the V2 1/60, you can angle/push the lower leg inwards from the side to help dislodge the intake peg. If it is too tight, grab the sides of the intakes and gently pull straight out. Scraping some of the paint off from the cutout part of the diecast plate that the peg plugs into may alleviate the tension, as that's what makes the connection tighter than it has to be.

[GU-11]

GU11-

Dude, I'm worried that the same thing is goin to happen to my VF-1D from the same sale. I'm having trouble detaching both of the legs on this peg. It looks like the plastic might be fatigued, but I'm not sure, because I haven't gotten the legs off yet. I was wondering what you folks would do -- I can get the pegs wiggles out a little, but not all the way. I was thinking of getting a credit card or a thin piece of poly styrene and trying to gently pry them out (and then remove some of the paint from the metal piece the peg goes into).

Thoughts?

Well, the general consensus here is that gentle prying is the only viable option. I typically use the "edged" side of a plastic ruler; works almost like those "guitar pick things" Bandai sells to split assembled halves of a snap-fit kit. After successfully removing the peg, you might also want to file the edges around the peg to make them more rounded. It should help make the task of wiggling them out a little easier.

BTW, be VERY careful with those damn pegs! Including mine, there are already three reported cases of broken pegs on VF-1D's, usually in the right leg.

Someone should really be telling Yamato about this.

Both.

I see. Honestly, I just don't know what to think about this anymore. If and when Yamato/HLJ sends me a new cockpit capsule along with the leg, I'll make a comparison then. In any case, thanks for the info.

Regarding the peg, I broke one on a VF-1A Hikaru by dislodging the leg improperly or with too much force, I guess. You really have to be careful when detaching the legs. Never had this happen (or anything break) on a 1/48 and I was rougher with those.

What can I say? Collecting Yamato VF's is like collecting vintage WWII dud mines and bombs. They might be expensive pieces of treasure, but you just never know when one might just go off in your face.

[Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0]

Someone should really be telling Yamato about this.

The easiest way for them to alleviate the issue would be to not paint the entire diecast plate that the intake pegs plug into, or at least not paint the area that it plugs into. Inevitably the paint from that area scratches off anyways.

[GU-11]

The easiest way for them to alleviate the issue would be to not paint the entire diecast plate that the intake pegs plug into, or at least not paint the area that it plugs into. Inevitably the paint from that area scratches off anyways.

Yup. Starting with the paint filing, I plan to do all the necessary fixes on my VF-1D once the HLJ/Yamato send me the -1D's replacement parts (I pray they'll oblige me on the cockpit capsule request).

[Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0]

Yup. Starting with the paint filing, I plan to do all the necessary fixes on my VF-1D once the HLJ/Yamato send me the -1D's replacement parts (I pray they'll oblige me on the cockpit capsule request).

That's all you might need to do, you might not need to shave off any of the plastic on the intake pegs.

[GU-11]

That's all you might need to do, you might not need to shave off any of the plastic on the intake pegs.

Yeah, I'm not too confident about filing the pegs down, to be honest. I guess just removing the paint should do the job.

[Vi-RS]

BTW, be VERY careful with those damn pegs! Including mine, there are already three reported cases of broken pegs on VF-1D's, usually in the right leg.

Someone should really be telling Yamato about this.

I'm sorry but it's really disturbing to see you making rant about your VF-1D everywhere you go in this forum. Yellowing "beige color" on body, broken tab, yellowing "rainbow coated" canopy, what's next?

The VF-1D has already been released for a year and no problem was found or pointed out except the little Hikaru won't sit right in his seat so the canopy can't close flush. For everything else, if you transform the V2 properly, there is no problem assoiciates with it.

What can I say? Collecting Yamato VF's is like collecting vintage WWII dud mines and bombs. They might be expensive pieces of treasure, but you just never know when one might just go off in your face.

May I present you the old 1/55 Chunky Monkey? They are built do last, simple transformation and robust.