Chronocidal Posted June 19, 2010 Posted June 19, 2010 Please note this might go better in the Modification/Customization area, but I wanted to run it by the widest audience (to make sure I'm not just nuts for thinking this is a problem). From the day I got my first V2 VF-1 (a strike Roy) something has really worried me about the fast packs. Anyway, I'll let this picture summarize. Those curvy lines are highlighting the tails. When I first saw how the fast packs force the tails to bend, I was a bit scared. I don't know if it was an intentional feature of the design, or if Yamato just didn't think it would be a problem. Due to the fact no one has reported any tails snapped in half, I'm assuming it's probably the latter. Either way though, I've never felt comfortable leaving the packs on for display. On top of that, this bending is the reason that the antennas on the backplate have a tendency to make nasty scratches in the tail markings. I even noticed that the force from bending the tails that way pops the front of the left booster up, knocking the missile packs out of line. The problem is really only the left booster. Remove it, the problem goes away, the tails stop bending and sit flat, and there's even space between the tail and antennas. This problem got me to thinking, and I remembered that my old 1/48 Hikaru's fast packs had what looked like a mold flaw that I never really paid much attention to. After looking a little closer at the packs when mounted, I realized that gouge was on purpose, to keep from forcing the tail down like on the 1/60. Since the backpack folded so tightly on the 1/48, it was pretty necessary. Well, suffice to say, the 1/60 packs obviously don't have that cutout. Or, didn't yet. I grabbed my files, and went to work. The cut away area had to be quite a bit larger on the 1/60 pack, since they seem to sit a bit lower on the backpack. I essentially filed a straight edge, cutting across one of the beveled edges of the underside of the booster. Given the option, I would have liked to make the cut even deeper, but I started to get concerned I might file clear through the plastic, since I don't know how thick it actually is at that point (lots of structure inside that panel). The end result is quite a bit easier on the tails, and even leaves a tiny sliver of room above the smaller antenna. I get the feeling I'm being slightly paranoid here, but so far I'm liking what this does. The left booster stays on better now too, and stays level with the right one. The tails still bend some, but I don't know if I could make that cutout any bigger without ripping right into the bottom of the booster, and I really don't want to do that. I might modify the rest of my packs to match this one, but I doubt I'll do any more unless I can pick up a spare half dozen sets or so to experiment on. Quote
Cent Posted June 19, 2010 Posted June 19, 2010 This reminds me of when I was a kid, and I would refuse to stack anything on top of each other, unless they were both perfectly flat and sturdy surfaces (like a brick on top of another brick). Now I just put anything anywhere. >_> I do think you're a little crazy, but I guess you should ask whether the other members have noticed their vertical stabilizers have bent out of shape or not. Quote
Chronocidal Posted June 19, 2010 Author Posted June 19, 2010 Well, I think my engineering background has a lot to do with it, but it's definitely a compulsive tick I have. I try to avoid putting anything under stress it isn't meant to take. Like, I won't set a valk on it's belly without landing gear or something to keep it from resting on the leg fins, that sort of thing. Heck, I avoid a lot of common "special" ways Lego bricks can be attached, just because they can break from the stress over time, and I've had it happen. I'd assume the tails can take it, given how many people have reported theirs snapped in half... if it was more prevalent, I'm sure there'd be at least a dozen threads about it by now. I would like to hear from people who leave their valks displayed with the packs for extended periods though. I know paint scratches can be a problem, but I've never heard anyone say whether the tails will warp over time. Quote
mickyg Posted June 19, 2010 Posted June 19, 2010 When you mentioned this a few months ago, it got me interested in how you'd modify yours. And of course, I started inspecting my set too. Yes, there's definitely a need for a cutout on the booster, it just doesn't fit well otherwise. Anyway, I was planning on hacking into my set back when you first brought this up but I've been busy. Glad to see you got it done and, more importantly, that it worked! I don't think you're being unreasonable or paranoid at all! Well, maybe paranoid about it breaking. I've had my Hikaru 1A with super packs on since I bought it about 7 months ago and it's not showing any signs of stress. But the not sitting level and bent tails definitely drives me nuts! So I'm completely with you on that count. I've got a dremel that I'm sure would make short work of the modification required. Thanks for diving in first! Quote
Vi-RS Posted June 19, 2010 Posted June 19, 2010 The 1/48 which has only one peg on the fastpack of each side, so extra pressuse is placed on the front end which overlay on the tails. The V2 1/60 actually has a connector for both fastpack, which basically distributes the weight evenly and not much pressure was placed on the tail? I could be wrong, but I do see some bending on the tail in fighter mode. Mine is all fine after sitting in fighter mode with fastpack on. Quote
eugimon Posted June 19, 2010 Posted June 19, 2010 definitely not being paranoid, the FAST packs on a DYRL valk will rub the little antenna nub against the black paint on the tail fin and wear out a hole. Quote
Chronocidal Posted June 19, 2010 Author Posted June 19, 2010 Right now, I've got a small strip of scotch tape covering the spots those antennas hit, and that's working okay it seems. I actually considered just clipping them off before. My biggest concern for this kind of mod is that someone will wind up cutting clear through the bottom of the booster. It might still hold together okay though, and I guess it wouldn't be visible anyway with the tail there. Quote
David Hingtgen Posted June 19, 2010 Posted June 19, 2010 Part of the problem is that the tailfins of the V2 just don't fold as flat over each other as on the V1. It's like Yamato "forgot" how to make them fold correctly. Quote
lechuck Posted June 19, 2010 Posted June 19, 2010 The problem is not in the employed folding system of the tailfins, but in the slightly convex shape of the tailfins themselves. When stacked up against each other it gives that ugly "bulged up" appearance. This also makes for a bit to much tension in battroid mode, sometimes pulling the little plastic plate slightly past one of those little nubs. Quote
GU-11 Posted June 19, 2010 Posted June 19, 2010 Is this a problem specifically for the 1/60 DYRL Valks only, or are the TV VF's with FAST packs also affected? My M&M VF-1J with FAST packs nervously await your reply. Quote
Vi-RS Posted June 19, 2010 Posted June 19, 2010 Is this a problem specifically for the 1/60 DYRL Valks only, or are the TV VF's with FAST packs also affected? My M&M VF-1J with FAST packs nervously await your reply. Dude, they all came from the same mold. Quote
eugimon Posted June 19, 2010 Posted June 19, 2010 Is this a problem specifically for the 1/60 DYRL Valks only, or are the TV VF's with FAST packs also affected? My M&M VF-1J with FAST packs nervously await your reply. any paint scheme that has paint on the tail fins you have to watch out for. Quote
hutch Posted June 19, 2010 Posted June 19, 2010 Not a modeler/detailer, but this mod interests me. What kind of file do I need. Quote
Chronocidal Posted June 19, 2010 Author Posted June 19, 2010 Mostly I just used a set of small hand files I bought for modeling a long while back, the kind that has assorted shapes for different jobs. I don't know if I would recommend something like a dremel though.. unless you go very slowly, you may just sand clear through the plastic. I'm really not sure it's a huge problem in the long run. What this does do is give a little breathing room so the antennas are not forced against the tails so much, and it lets the boosters sit more level, since you don't have the tail pushing up on the front of the left booster as much. Before I did this, I always noticed the tip of the left booster was angled up compared with the right one, and it doesn't happen any more. Before anyone starts worrying, this isn't worth panicking over. These things have been out for a long while now, and it hasn't actually caused any serious problems for anyone yet, outside of a little scratched tail paint. Mostly, doing this is just to help protect that paint a little more, and make the boosters finally sit level. The tails still touch the antennas, since all this does is lessen how far the tails are forced down. What I've done to help is file down the smaller of the two antennas a little. Since the bigger antenna is still there, it kind of helps keep the tail from hitting the smaller one. So, instead of scratching paint in the middle of the tail, you might scratch it at the edge. For M&M valks, the back edge is unpainted, so this works well. I guess personally, I prefer a small scratch on the edge than a worn spot in the middle of the tail. As for why this happens... really, yes, the tails should fold flatter, but even if they did, it wouldn't fix this. The boosters are mounted too low on the backpack. The only reason this is a problem at all is that the booster is pressing down on the tip of the right tail in the folded position. Because it's the tail you fold first, it's underneath the other one, and pressing on the bottom tail has a nasty leverage effect, forcing the other tail even further, and right against those antennas. Remember, without the left booster attached, the tails don't even touch the antennas. The tails are just fine as they are, and they fold plenty for clearance. The boosters are just mounted too low for the left one to clear the tail like it should. To permanently fix this, you would need to add material to the booster mount to raise the boosters, and then completely relocate the existing tabs on the boosters that attach to the backpack. I know some people here are perfectly capable of that too, it would just involve removing the old tabs, drilling a hole, and making a new tab that's lower. Quote
GU-11 Posted June 20, 2010 Posted June 20, 2010 Dude, they all came from the same mold. Oh, crap. any paint scheme that has paint on the tail fins you have to watch out for. Oh, crap. Oh well, as long as it doesn't warp the tail fins themselves. Since I'm not exactly a professional modeler, the simplest solution I can come up with is to just place a small piece of paper or tape between the tail fin and the antenna nub. Since it's basically invisible and will probably stay displayed like that for months, it's both a non-invasive and simple solution as far as I'm concerned. Quote
Vi-RS Posted June 20, 2010 Posted June 20, 2010 You know the clear tape that wrap the tip of the main wing comes pretty handy, everytime i opne up a brand new toy I just peel it off and tape it over the tail where it meets the Antenna... Quote
GU-11 Posted June 20, 2010 Posted June 20, 2010 You know the clear tape that wrap the tip of the main wing comes pretty handy, everytime i opne up a brand new toy I just peel it off and tape it over the tail where it meets the Antenna... Great idea! Good thing I always put the clear wrapping tape of my VF's in the boxes once they're removed. Quote
Kyp Durron Posted June 20, 2010 Posted June 20, 2010 (edited) Please note this might go better in the Modification/Customization area, but I wanted to run it by the widest audience (to make sure I'm not just nuts for thinking this is a problem). From the day I got my first V2 VF-1 (a strike Roy) something has really worried me about the fast packs. Anyway, I'll let this picture summarize. Those curvy lines are highlighting the tails. When I first saw how the fast packs force the tails to bend, I was a bit scared. I don't know if it was an intentional feature of the design, or if Yamato just didn't think it would be a problem. Due to the fact no one has reported any tails snapped in half, I'm assuming it's probably the latter. Either way though, I've never felt comfortable leaving the packs on for display. On top of that, this bending is the reason that the antennas on the backplate have a tendency to make nasty scratches in the tail markings. I even noticed that the force from bending the tails that way pops the front of the left booster up, knocking the missile packs out of line. The problem is really only the left booster. Remove it, the problem goes away, the tails stop bending and sit flat, and there's even space between the tail and antennas. This problem got me to thinking, and I remembered that my old 1/48 Hikaru's fast packs had what looked like a mold flaw that I never really paid much attention to. After looking a little closer at the packs when mounted, I realized that gouge was on purpose, to keep from forcing the tail down like on the 1/60. Since the backpack folded so tightly on the 1/48, it was pretty necessary. Well, suffice to say, the 1/60 packs obviously don't have that cutout. Or, didn't yet. I grabbed my files, and went to work. The cut away area had to be quite a bit larger on the 1/60 pack, since they seem to sit a bit lower on the backpack. I essentially filed a straight edge, cutting across one of the beveled edges of the underside of the booster. Given the option, I would have liked to make the cut even deeper, but I started to get concerned I might file clear through the plastic, since I don't know how thick it actually is at that point (lots of structure inside that panel). The end result is quite a bit easier on the tails, and even leaves a tiny sliver of room above the smaller antenna. I get the feeling I'm being slightly paranoid here, but so far I'm liking what this does. The left booster stays on better now too, and stays level with the right one. The tails still bend some, but I don't know if I could make that cutout any bigger without ripping right into the bottom of the booster, and I really don't want to do that. I might modify the rest of my packs to match this one, but I doubt I'll do any more unless I can pick up a spare half dozen sets or so to experiment on. Nice solution, after seeing yours, I decided to do something with mine as well, but my solution was a bit more...radical: The boobie ducks are permanently glued to the spare backpack I dedicated for super mode. As you can see, I have an unmodified complete back pack assembly that I can swap back into place with a single screw for when I remove the fast packs. It was among the few pieces I had left over from when I parted out my other 1'60 V2 Roy 1S a couple of years ago. The thing I like about my solution is that it does away with that plastic brace piece thus making it look more like the line art. -Kyp Edited June 20, 2010 by Kyp Durron Quote
Kyp Durron Posted June 21, 2010 Posted June 21, 2010 I've been wanting to do something with mine for a long time now, I was just finally inspired by the author's post, lol. -Kyp Quote
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