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Yamato 1/60 VF-22S Thread


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On the other side the canopy doesn’t stay open at all and the chest plate doesn’t lock…

Canopy: when you open it, you can also slide it out at the joint and it should stay open just fine.

Chest plate: are you sliding the front fuselage/chestplate all the way down? When you do so, it should lock!

I'll post some pics later ;)

Hope you enjoy this toy, it's one of my favorites, if not the favorite!!!

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Canopy: when you open it, you can also slide it out at the joint and it should stay open just fine.

Chest plate: are you sliding the front fuselage/chestplate all the way down? When you do so, it should lock!

Muchas gracias Ignacio for your advice, by doing what you say everything works just right. It’s a great toy indeed.

The only problem now is that when transforming back into fighter mode, getting the fuselage covers to line up flat is a pain in the arse, though I can make it look good enough. It seems to be due to the same problem Chronocidal pointed out somewhere in this post, as on my YF-21 the belly plates just would never sit correctly if the rear tabs were correctly inserted into the undersides of the engines. That’s because the upper engine plate (the one that slides) is not level. If you look at it from the rear, you notice the upper flat surfaces of the engine nacelles both lean inwards. Because of this, the engines are actually rotated a little, and the end result is that the places where those tabs on the belly plates go are higher than they should be. The belly plates mesh together fine if you don't insert those tabs under the engines, but putting them in correctly makes the plates bend from being forced against the legs.

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Muchas gracias Ignacio for your advice, by doing what you say everything works just right. It’s a great toy indeed.

The only problem now is that when transforming back into fighter mode, getting the fuselage covers to line up flat is a pain in the arse, though I can make it look good enough. It seems to be due to the same problem Chronocidal pointed out somewhere in this post, as on my YF-21 the belly plates just would never sit correctly if the rear tabs were correctly inserted into the undersides of the engines. That’s because the upper engine plate (the one that slides) is not level. If you look at it from the rear, you notice the upper flat surfaces of the engine nacelles both lean inwards. Because of this, the engines are actually rotated a little, and the end result is that the places where those tabs on the belly plates go are higher than they should be. The belly plates mesh together fine if you don't insert those tabs under the engines, but putting them in correctly makes the plates bend from being forced against the legs.

Hm... I would really love to help out, but it would be great to have some pics to better illustrate your problem. (^.^;) I personally suspect improper leg placement, but it could also be due to incorrect transformation.

If everything is in its proper place, there should be no problems lining up the belly plates:

DSC_0570.jpg

DSC_0569.jpg

DSC_0596.jpg

Edited by Actar
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I used to have the same problem with the fuselage covers too. Then I realized that the knee is double-jointed, and the top joint of the right knee was not in the correct postion.

Hm... I would really love to help out, but it would be great to have some pics to better illustrate your problem. (^.^;) I personally suspect improper leg placement, but it could also be due to incorrect transformation.

If everything is in its proper place, there should be no problems lining up the belly plates:

DSC_0570.jpg

DSC_0569.jpg

DSC_0596.jpg

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And some people like me, just seem to have a defective back plate that screws everything up. It won't fit together right WITH THE LEGS ENTIRELY REMOVED. Removing the belly plate too---still won't lay flat/flush. Obviously it's the back plate's problem, not the legs or belly. I can sometimes get the belly plates to close but never securely, and the back plate never has, and never will, lay flush with the rest of the upper fuselage.

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And some people like me, just seem to have a defective back plate that screws everything up. It won't fit together right WITH THE LEGS ENTIRELY REMOVED. Removing the belly plate too---still won't lay flat/flush. Obviously it's the back plate's problem, not the legs or belly. I can sometimes get the belly plates to close but never securely, and the back plate never has, and never will, lay flush with the rest of the upper fuselage.

I have about the same problem on mine, the back and belly parts never line up perfectly. :( (also the nosecone has never been able to lock securely on in battroid mode ever.)

Edited by anime52k8
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I have about the same problem on mine, the back and belly parts never line up perfectly. :( (also the nosecone has never been able to lock securely on in battroid mode ever.)

ive got the nosecone locking issue too, I didnt even realise it was supposed to lock until this thread.

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I'm not really sure if this has been mentioned before, but I just noticed something on my YF-21 that could potentially help people out with the nosecone locking issue.

Image00001-1-1.jpg

Notice that there is a double hinge joint where the nosecone folds down? Most of the time, the double hinge joint isn't completely pulled all the way down.

To illustrate this, I have made the following 'guide'.

Image00002-1.jpg

- The light blue line represents the main body.

- The red lines show the incorrect position of the hinge and nosecone.

- The green lines show the correct position of the hinge and nosecone.

Notice that in the correct position, the entire head and nosecone assembly is slightly lower than if the hinge is not pushed fully down.

The gap between the nosecone and body is also wider.

While this may seem insignificant, this few millimeter of clearance is imperative in allowing the nosecone to lock securely and tightly.

Hope this helped.

Edited by Actar
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Known about that for a while and that still doesn't fix it on mine. The problem is that the little nubs on the inside of the metal swing bars (circled in green) are too damn small and do nothing to hold the nose cone down. The closest thing to a fix I could come up with was to take a file and shave away some paint and metal behind the nub so there was enough of a groove for the nose to settle into, but it will only catch on one side at a time, so even the slightest pressure in the other direction will dislodge it.

Image00001-1-1.jpg

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Known about that for a while and that still doesn't fix it on mine. The problem is that the little nubs on the inside of the metal swing bars (circled in green) are too damn small and do nothing to hold the nose cone down. The closest thing to a fix I could come up with was to take a file and shave away some paint and metal behind the nub so there was enough of a groove for the nose to settle into, but it will only catch on one side at a time, so even the slightest pressure in the other direction will dislodge it.

Image00001-1-1.jpg

I'm not sure if it's the same thing causing it since I haven't seen the nosecone's position on yours but I had the same problem on mine : only one side was locking and the slightest touch would dislodge it. It was only due to the nosecone not going all the way down, check some pictures above from keichii. The top part of the cockpit should come down to the level of the nose's side sensors so that both sides of the cockpit can get locked

Edited by Frogze
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Is there a trick to transforming to and from valkyrie without the legs popping off the swing bar joint?

Also, does anyone know the type of screws used on this toy? Mine seems to be missing one on the cover piece between the back and the head causing it to come off during transformation sometimes.

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The detachable legs thing is the cause of most of this toy's problems IMHO. Seriously, does anyone EVER do it on purpose? You can't even display it like that. But trying to move things around without them coming off, and re-attaching them when they inevitably do, lead to a full on crack-separation on the thigh of mine. Did the most durable repair I could, let the glue dry for weeks, but have only transformed it twice or so since then. I don't know if it'll hold.

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The detachable legs thing is the cause of most of this toy's problems IMHO. Seriously, does anyone EVER do it on purpose? You can't even display it like that. But trying to move things around without them coming off, and re-attaching them when they inevitably do, lead to a full on crack-separation on the thigh of mine. Did the most durable repair I could, let the glue dry for weeks, but have only transformed it twice or so since then. I don't know if it'll hold.

That sucks.

I hope it holds for you. It's too expensive of a toy to have to worry about shyt like that.

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The detachable legs thing is the cause of most of this toy's problems IMHO. Seriously, does anyone EVER do it on purpose? You can't even display it like that. But trying to move things around without them coming off, and re-attaching them when they inevitably do, lead to a full on crack-separation on the thigh of mine. Did the most durable repair I could, let the glue dry for weeks, but have only transformed it twice or so since then. I don't know if it'll hold.

I do it on purpose ;)

I display it in fighter mode with a stand.

Sorry to hear you got a crack on yours.

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So I finally got my first Macross toy after 6 years being out of collecting...my choice VF-22S Gamlin. Got it for $114 shipped on Ebay. Its worth WAY more than that. This MODEL feels solid, but its pretty delicate and should be treated as a transformable model. Beautiful piece of engineering.

I must agree that the removeable leg thing is a bother. On mine the long metal bar can separate pretty easily too in transformation.

On the bottom panels not fitting together...the reason is that the legs (in my case the right leg (left from the underside)) are not pushed forward enough into the appendage compartment. It feels like it is, but just push it forward a little harder, it'll fit.

On a selfish note...please do not buy all the Max and Milia ones at HLJ before the end of the sale. The price is too good and I want these but need to wait til I get paid again. ;)

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So I finally got my first Macross toy after 6 years being out of collecting...my choice VF-22S Gamlin. Got it for $114 shipped on Ebay. Its worth WAY more than that. This MODEL feels solid, but its pretty delicate and should be treated as a transformable model. Beautiful piece of engineering.

I must agree that the removeable leg thing is a bother. On mine the long metal bar can separate pretty easily too in transformation.

On the bottom panels not fitting together...the reason is that the legs (in my case the right leg (left from the underside)) are not pushed forward enough into the appendage compartment. It feels like it is, but just push it forward a little harder, it'll fit.

On a selfish note...please do not buy all the Max and Milia ones at HLJ before the end of the sale. The price is too good and I want these but need to wait til I get paid again. ;)

If you live in the states, I have a VF-22S Max for sale. :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Does anyone remember what the fix for the floppy wings where? Got my Max and Mira VF-22s yesterday and the left wing on the Mira is pretty floppy. Tried taking it apart but I did not notice anything majorly wrong. Was it something to do with the length of the screw used? I noticed that when I took it apart 1 of the 3 screws in that part of the wing was noticeably longer than the others.

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Does anyone remember what the fix for the floppy wings where? Got my Max and Mira VF-22s yesterday and the left wing on the Mira is pretty floppy. Tried taking it apart but I did not notice anything majorly wrong. Was it something to do with the length of the screw used? I noticed that when I took it apart 1 of the 3 screws in that part of the wing was noticeably longer than the others.

I did this repair on JasonC's VF-22 Milia. After removing all the screws, as you pointed out, I stiffed the loose wing connection by adding a thin styrene strip in the area where the wing moves. The increased friction helps keep it in place.

(I don't recall the screws being different lengths, sorry.)

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I did this repair on JasonC's VF-22 Milia. After removing all the screws, as you pointed out, I stiffed the loose wing connection by adding a thin styrene strip in the area where the wing moves. The increased friction helps keep it in place.

(I don't recall the screws being different lengths, sorry.)

On the bottom of the joint in the wing I am assuming?

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Hm... I would really love to help out, but it would be great to have some pics to better illustrate your problem. (^.^;) I personally suspect improper leg placement, but it could also be due to incorrect transformation.

If everything is in its proper place, there should be no problems lining up the belly plates:

DSC_0570.jpg

DSC_0569.jpg

DSC_0596.jpg

I have never been so jealous in my life. I would KILL to have mine look like that!

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I took around 5-6 years off from collecting Yamatos (or anything, for that matter) due to "life", and I return to find that there are new Milia & Max valkyries to collect...not to mention Macross 7 stuff from Yamato. I feel like I've been off planet for some time.

So, a question---What is the best route to use to acquire these nowadays? I used to always go the HLJ route in the past, but, with the currency exchange rate, I see how expensive these can be to import now. I have seen some on Ebay, but they are from Hong Kong, and I know all about bootleg goods that come out of HK.

I humbly request some advice from my fellow MWers. I feel like a damn rookie all over again after this time away. :unsure:

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I took around 5-6 years off from collecting Yamatos (or anything, for that matter) due to "life", and I return to find that there are new Milia & Max valkyries to collect...not to mention Macross 7 stuff from Yamato. I feel like I've been off planet for some time.

So, a question---What is the best route to use to acquire these nowadays? I used to always go the HLJ route in the past, but, with the currency exchange rate, I see how expensive these can be to import now. I have seen some on Ebay, but they are from Hong Kong, and I know all about bootleg goods that come out of HK.

I humbly request some advice from my fellow MWers. I feel like a damn rookie all over again after this time away. :unsure:

Last time I checked these were actually really cheap at HLJ. Check out the "HLJ Yamato Sale" thread. Not sure if it's still going on, though.

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Last time I checked these were actually really cheap at HLJ. Check out the "HLJ Yamato Sale" thread. Not sure if it's still going on, though.

HLJ's sale is over. Best place to buy them is from AmiAmi: LINK

Scroll down a bit and all three VF-22S are there. Don't be afraid to place a back order with AmiAmi if you want the Max, they tend to fill them within a few days!

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I ordered a Max from an Amazon Japan marketplace seller (DeNet Hobby Market) the other week for just 7,480 inc shipping... to my inlaws in Japan.

Picking it up in May!

Both Max and Milia can still be had from Amazon Japan themselves for 9,264 inc shipping, or Gamlin for 8,480 inc shipping from DeNet.

Amazon's a pretty decent option if you have a Japanese shipping address!

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Yeah. They were about 4,000 yen or so at last month's Yamato Showroom event, so you definitely have to keep an eye out for crazy prizes on these things.

EDIT -- I got mine at Amazon, I think, for about 8000 IIRC.

Edited by Renato
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Hm... I would really love to help out, but it would be great to have some pics to better illustrate your problem. (^.^;) I personally suspect improper leg placement, but it could also be due to incorrect transformation.

If everything is in its proper place, there should be no problems lining up the belly plates:

DSC_0570.jpg

Haven't transformed mine yet but that sure looks pretty if the belly can lock that perfectly.

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I have seen some on Ebay, but they are from Hong Kong, and I know all about bootleg goods that come out of HK.

I humbly request some advice from my fellow MWers. I feel like a damn rookie all over again after this time away. :unsure:

Don't worry about the Yamato valks from HK. As far as I know, there are no bootleg Yamato valks in HK. i.e. there are no valks that look 90% like the Yamatos and are bootlegs. If the ebay pic shows something that looks like a real Yamato valk/box, it is real.

I got most of my yamato's from HK sellers. No problems so far.

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Haven't transformed mine yet but that sure looks pretty if the belly can lock that perfectly.

Hi your yf-21 belly locks in place really well...Can you take pictures of the belly plates out of the way so I can see the legs positioning. I can't get mine to look like yours and I like another fellow member said " I would kill to have my yf-21 to look like yours "... Thanks

This comment is for Actar

Edited by fung430
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Hi your yf-21 belly locks in place really well...Can you take pictures of the belly plates out of the way so I can see the legs positioning. I can't get mine to look like yours and I like another fellow member said " I would kill to have my yf-21 to look like yours "... Thanks

This comment is for Actar

Here ya go. (^o^)

Image00005.jpg

Closed

Image00006.jpg

Open

Image00007.jpg

Back

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Here ya go. (^o^)

Image00005.jpg

Closed

Image00006.jpg

Open

Image00007.jpg

Back

Thanks for the pics Actar. I just got my yf-21 recently, I am like the kid that I used to see with the buzz light year figure from toystory1 back in the late 90's. Now I know how he felt. I just want my yf-21 to be perfectly transformed. Cheers!!! thanks

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