Keiichi Posted December 15, 2010 Share Posted December 15, 2010 I noticed my Milia VF-22S nosecone doesn't lock in battroid. There's a glitch on one of the tabs on the metal hinge (the double hinge bar that moves the intakes up when transforming to battroid) that is supposed to lock the cockpit down and it prevents the cockpit to lock on one side, making the whole cockpit piece unpeg very easily. It can be fixed but I'd have to scratch the paint on the metal piece to take away the excess paint. One other possible reason the nose is not locking in place could be due to one of the screws that holds the cockpit in place. One of the forward screws may have its head sitting out a bit (rather than being flush to the side of the cockpit piece) and this prevents the nose from being pushed down far enough to reach a good locking position. You can safely remove the screw without any loss of functionality and this gives you clearance to push the nose down all the way. Tough to explain, I'll try to take pictures of what I'm talking about sometime as I need to do the same operation for another of my VF-22s. I noticed this problem when my original VF-22S Max could push its nose down further than either my Miria or Gamlin, allowing its nose to lock in place easily and giving the head clearance to turn side to side a bit (couldn't turn the heads at all on the other two). I could feel something clearly blocking Miria/Gamlin's nose from being pushed down as far so I disassembled Miria's nose and found that screw to be the culprit. Gamlin had the same problem and same solution, now my second Max has arrived and I think it also has that problem. I'll take pictures when I get around to taking him apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loop Posted December 15, 2010 Share Posted December 15, 2010 One other possible reason the nose is not locking in place could be due to one of the screws that holds the cockpit in place. One of the forward screws may have its head sitting out a bit (rather than being flush to the side of the cockpit piece) and this prevents the nose from being pushed down far enough to reach a good locking position. You can safely remove the screw without any loss of functionality and this gives you clearance to push the nose down all the way. Tough to explain, I'll try to take pictures of what I'm talking about sometime as I need to do the same operation for another of my VF-22s. I noticed this problem when my original VF-22S Max could push its nose down further than either my Miria or Gamlin, allowing its nose to lock in place easily and giving the head clearance to turn side to side a bit (couldn't turn the heads at all on the other two). I could feel something clearly blocking Miria/Gamlin's nose from being pushed down as far so I disassembled Miria's nose and found that screw to be the culprit. Gamlin had the same problem and same solution, now my second Max has arrived and I think it also has that problem. I'll take pictures when I get around to taking him apart. Yes please do take pics I would like to see this in detail as I have a new Max Millia and Gamlin all unopened, and knowing my luck there will be a problem. I got these all I believe, last week from the HLJ sale. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frogze Posted December 15, 2010 Share Posted December 15, 2010 Thanks a lot for the info Keiichi, I'll check my Milia closely and see if I can find that misplaced screw! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troyness Posted December 16, 2010 Share Posted December 16, 2010 (edited) Keiichi, +2 on the pics!!! loop, +2 on the un-opened Max: hlj.com sale!! Edited December 16, 2010 by troyness Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frogze Posted December 18, 2010 Share Posted December 18, 2010 I took apart the cockpit on my Milia and you were right Keiichi, the problem of the non locking nosecone was caused by that screw sticking out a bit too much. I just gave it a turn and it was back in place, and now the nosecone goes down all the way and locks perfectly. Thanks a lot for the advice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troyness Posted December 18, 2010 Share Posted December 18, 2010 Anyone got a pic of this cockpit/nosecone screw thingy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frogze Posted December 18, 2010 Share Posted December 18, 2010 Sorry, I wish I could take a picture but my camera is an old one and it can't take such small things even less if at close range... the screw is located on the hinge at the front of the canopy area but I had to take apart the nose (6 screws) before getting to it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troyness Posted December 19, 2010 Share Posted December 19, 2010 Hey thanx Frogze I didn,t realise there was abit of dissassembly involved , I ,ll be aware of it once I open my Max.Thanx!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keiichi Posted December 20, 2010 Share Posted December 20, 2010 (edited) I took apart the cockpit on my Milia and you were right Keiichi, the problem of the non locking nosecone was caused by that screw sticking out a bit too much. I just gave it a turn and it was back in place, and now the nosecone goes down all the way and locks perfectly. Thanks a lot for the advice! Glad it worked out for you! @troyness I got pictures for you and Loop! First, some 'before' pictures: Notice how Max can only look straight ahead, while Millia can turn to the side, this is because the cockpit section on Millia is pulled down farther, creating more clearance and exposing the 'neck.' Furthermore, as a result of this Millia is able to lock her nose section in place, while Max's won't. Compared to Max: Well, let's get to work and open Max up to see what's wrong. Here is the first set of screws you need to remove (there's one on the opposite side of the cockpit as well). These screws secure tiny 'arms' that hold the cockpit down while allowing it to move up and down for the transformations: With those screws removed, you can pop the 'arms' off their pegs and lift the cockpit section a bit more. This allows you to get at the next set of screws. Again, there are two screws (with one circled in the picture). These are the most difficult to remove/replace due to their awkward position: Removing these screws allows you to remove the cockpit fuselage and get at the source of the problem. The circled screw is the one that may be sticking out too far and preventing the cockpit section from being pushed down far enough: As you can see from this next set of photos, the screw on this Max is actually fine, it sits flush inside its screw hole. The circled grey block was just really tight so I needed to use more force to push it down . But, notice where the screw sits when the block has been properly pushed in; obviously if that screw were sticking out you wouldn't be able to get the cockpit to push in all the way: "Keiichi, you idiot," you're thinking, "you probably just needed to use more force on your other VF-22S' too!" Well, I may be an idiot, but I'm not stupid! ...or something . Here is why I was reluctant to use more force. The screw on the left is the one taken from Max at the problem area, while the screw on the right was taken from Millia in the same spot. Note how much larger the head of Millia's screw is, it will NOT sit flush inside the screw hole. I removed the same screw from Gamlin's VF-22S: So basically, the wrong sized screw was used on Millia and Gamlin. As a result, the head of the screw was poking out and stopping the cockpit from being pushed all the way in. Unlike Frogze, I was not able to screw the screw further in, the head was just too large. So, I just took the screw out, and everything still functions perfectly well. Once you've confirmed the problem, just put everything back together, here is a reference shot of how the cockpit armor needs to be positioned when reassembling: Edited December 20, 2010 by Keiichi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted December 20, 2010 Share Posted December 20, 2010 So basically, the wrong sized screw was used on Millia and Gamlin. As a result, the head of the screw was poking out and stopping the cockpit from being pushed all the way in. Unlike Frogze, I was not able to screw the screw further in, the head was just too large. So, I just took the screw out, and everything still functions perfectly well. Once you've confirmed the problem, just put everything back together, here is a reference shot of how the cockpit armor needs to be positioned when reassembling:*snip* Actually, the same thing may have happened to the Renewal YF-21, the head on mine does not turn much, chest does not lock into place, and neck is not as exposed. Might open up the section in question and see what's up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anime52k8 Posted December 21, 2010 Share Posted December 21, 2010 could someone explain exactly what you guys mean when you say the nosecone can be locked down in battroid mode? I've had my YF-21 since it was first released and I've never been able to get it to consistently lock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted December 21, 2010 Share Posted December 21, 2010 could someone explain exactly what you guys mean when you say the nosecone can be locked down in battroid mode? I've had my YF-21 since it was first released and I've never been able to get it to consistently lock. There are nubs on the diecast swing bars that are meant to keep the underside of the nose in place/flush against the back. If that screw pictured in above posts is not sticking out too far, the nose should be able to go down further, stay in place securely, and the neck should have more clearance to swivel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anime52k8 Posted December 21, 2010 Share Posted December 21, 2010 (edited) There are nubs on the diecast swing bars that are meant to keep the underside of the nose in place/flush against the back. yeah, those nubs don't do anything of value of mine. Edited December 21, 2010 by anime52k8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted December 21, 2010 Share Posted December 21, 2010 yeah, those numbs don't do anything of value of mine. Same on mine, but I think if I can access the screw in question, it may help on mine. The neck does not swivel much on mine, so I hope I can at least free up some clearance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wolfx Posted December 21, 2010 Share Posted December 21, 2010 Glad it worked out for you! @troyness I got pictures for you and Loop! First, some 'before' pictures: Notice how Max can only look straight ahead, while Millia can turn to the side, this is because the cockpit section on Millia is pulled down farther, creating more clearance and exposing the 'neck.' Furthermore, as a result of this Millia is able to lock her nose section in place, while Max's won't. Compared to Max: Well, let's get to work and open Max up to see what's wrong. Here is the first set of screws you need to remove (there's one on the opposite side of the cockpit as well). These screws secure tiny 'arms' that hold the cockpit down while allowing it to move up and down for the transformations: With those screws removed, you can pop the 'arms' off their pegs and lift the cockpit section a bit more. This allows you to get at the next set of screws. Again, there are two screws (with one circled in the picture). These are the most difficult to remove/replace due to their awkward position: Removing these screws allows you to remove the cockpit fuselage and get at the source of the problem. The circled screw is the one that may be sticking out too far and preventing the cockpit section from being pushed down far enough: As you can see from this next set of photos, the screw on this Max is actually fine, it sits flush inside its screw hole. The circled grey block was just really tight so I needed to use more force to push it down . But, notice where the screw sits when the block has been properly pushed in; obviously if that screw were sticking out you wouldn't be able to get the cockpit to push in all the way: "Keiichi, you idiot," you're thinking, "you probably just needed to use more force on your other VF-22S' too!" Well, I may be an idiot, but I'm not stupid! ...or something . Here is why I was reluctant to use more force. The screw on the left is the one taken from Max at the problem area, while the screw on the right was taken from Millia in the same spot. Note how much larger the head of Millia's screw is, it will NOT sit flush inside the screw hole. I removed the same screw from Gamlin's VF-22S: So basically, the wrong sized screw was used on Millia and Gamlin. As a result, the head of the screw was poking out and stopping the cockpit from being pushed all the way in. Unlike Frogze, I was not able to screw the screw further in, the head was just too large. So, I just took the screw out, and everything still functions perfectly well. Once you've confirmed the problem, just put everything back together, here is a reference shot of how the cockpit armor needs to be positioned when reassembling: Thanks for the pics! Haven't played with mine yet but shall go home and do some operation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renato Posted December 21, 2010 Share Posted December 21, 2010 Open question: How well does the canopy cover hold in the open position when in fighter mode? Mine doesn't at all. I think at first it was quite tight but now it is really loose, it does not stay open at all, just plops right down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troyness Posted December 21, 2010 Share Posted December 21, 2010 Keiichi, thanx soo much for those pics!!!! I,ll be opening my Max at xmas, those pics are like an early xmas present!! It,s great to already have a solution to my potentual problem. Much respect for taking your Max apart for everyone else,s benefit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vi-RS Posted December 21, 2010 Share Posted December 21, 2010 This is one nice looking valkyrie, but the transformation doesn't make too much sense to me since too many parts are blocking its way on every step. The tail fins and belly plates always blocking the process, but you will get used to it with couple more practice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted December 21, 2010 Share Posted December 21, 2010 Open question: How well does the canopy cover hold in the open position when in fighter mode? Mine doesn't at all. I think at first it was quite tight but now it is really loose, it does not stay open at all, just plops right down. Doesn't stay open on my Renewal YF-21 either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Actar Posted December 21, 2010 Share Posted December 21, 2010 Open question: How well does the canopy cover hold in the open position when in fighter mode? Mine doesn't at all. I think at first it was quite tight but now it is really loose, it does not stay open at all, just plops right down. I bought mine a year ago and it's the regular release (not renewal version). The canopy is kinda loose but stays open fine on mine. Here's what I do, when the canopy is fully open, try shaking it side to side a little. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted December 21, 2010 Share Posted December 21, 2010 I bought mine a year ago and it's the regular release (not renewal version). The canopy is kinda loose but stays open fine on mine. Here's what I do, when the canopy is fully open, try shaking it side to side a little. Did, still falls. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiriK Posted December 21, 2010 Share Posted December 21, 2010 I bought mine a year ago and it's the regular release (not renewal version). The canopy is kinda loose but stays open fine on mine. Here's what I do, when the canopy is fully open, try shaking it side to side a little. Yea, this is a problem i've encountered as well. Just bought a Max and Milia VF-22 set from the HLJ sale and have them displayed in fighter mode, but my max cockpit stays up, while the milia cockpit is a floppy mess and doesn't stay up at all. i wondered what the problem was. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loop Posted December 21, 2010 Share Posted December 21, 2010 Thanks Keiichi, I will check mine out and figure out if I have this problem. I have a first edition v2 YF-21 I should check also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacrossJunkie Posted December 22, 2010 Share Posted December 22, 2010 (edited) Yea, this is a problem i've encountered as well. Just bought a Max and Milia VF-22 set from the HLJ sale and have them displayed in fighter mode, but my max cockpit stays up, while the milia cockpit is a floppy mess and doesn't stay up at all. i wondered what the problem was. I just got my Milia 22S today and the canopy is floppy and doesn't stay up for mine either. In fact, out of the couple YF-21s, Max 22s, Gamlin 22S, and the Milia 22S, The Milia one has by far the worst QC I've encountered. - The left wing flops down and won't stay up in fighter mode. (fixed it by taking the wing off and putting glue in the joints) - The tail fins are somewhat loose. - The faceplate in battroid mode is floppy and likes to slip back up. - The white stripe on the right tail fin is painted badly and a whole chunk of the white strip was missing as if something else was blocking the surface when it was painted. - The swivel portions for the leg covers in the leg were loose and did not keep the leg covers in place where I posed them. I had to take off the legs and take apart the assembly that held the ball joint and clean off the ball joint and the rubber piece because they seemed greasy. Seemed better after that. - And finally The leg cover attachment point to the little bar are really loose (the part where the little gray bar sticks out from the underside of the cover), causing the covers to flop around in battroid mode. Popping it out to get more clearance from the leg does not help at all. I had this same issue with my Gamlin 22S, but not on my YF-21s and Max 22S. The YF-21 and Max 22S are by far the ones that have the best QC and pretty much no issues for me. Edited December 22, 2010 by MacrossJunkie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ignacio Ocamica Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 Received Max 22S, cockpit section slides all the way down, the canopy stays up just fine. No QC issues so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDClip Posted December 29, 2010 Share Posted December 29, 2010 Got my max and millia vf-22s in the mail from hlj holiday sale a few days ago. The landing gears are a floppy mess and the wing joints are very loose. I have a first run yf-21 and the wings and landing gears are tight and unmoving when you set them. I guess i need to get some flightpose stands and just hope that the wings don't start drooping any more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loop Posted December 29, 2010 Share Posted December 29, 2010 Crap, I have had my Max and Milia since before Christmas and still have yet to open them. My display cabinets are full and I need a couple more for all my stuff, but I cant find an alternative to the detolf to fit my needs. Not only that, the last 2 I bought were actually the white variants for my Macross collection, but they don't sell those anymore. I do have 2 of the beach colored ones, but prefer to use those for my resin and PVC statues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrusherJ Posted December 29, 2010 Share Posted December 29, 2010 (edited) Got the VF-22S Max from the hlj sale. It is gorgeous! Love the color! The left wing is looser than the right wing, but it stays up fine. I've transformed it to battloid and back to fighter once which was a long ordeal. Like how everything clicks together, pretty solid overall. Just have to practice the transformation till I can get the belly plates flush. On the fence about getting another 22S. It'll be Millia's if I do, for obvious reasons Edited December 29, 2010 by CrusherJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacrossJunkie Posted December 29, 2010 Share Posted December 29, 2010 (edited) I wish Milia's VF-22S in M7 wasn't so pastel pinkish red. If she stayed with the darker, richer shade of red as her 1J or her DYRL style Q-Rau, I think it would have looked much better. The toy just looks so out of place next to the other valks in my cabinets. Even Luca's mint green is not so jarring in comparison. I guess I just didn't think it would bother me until I actually put it in the display. I tried doing some light weathering on it to see if it helps my perception of it and now it looks even stranger to me Edit: Actually, by itself, it doesn't look too bad. Edited December 29, 2010 by MacrossJunkie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reïvaj Posted December 29, 2010 Share Posted December 29, 2010 I wish Milia's VF-22S in M7 wasn't so pastel pinkish red. If she stayed with the darker, richer shade of red as her 1J or her DYRL style Q-Rau, I think it would have looked much better. The toy just looks so out of place next to the other valks in my cabinets. Even Luca's mint green is not so jarring in comparison. I guess I just didn't think it would bother me until I actually put it in the display. I tried doing some light weathering on it to see if it helps my perception of it and now it looks even stranger to me Edit: Actually, by itself, it doesn't look too bad. Hey! Nice job! How did you do the weathering? I may also try to do so... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacrossJunkie Posted December 29, 2010 Share Posted December 29, 2010 Hey! Nice job! How did you do the weathering? I may also try to do so... I just did my usual of using the tamiya weathering kits. I haven't done a clearcoat yet because I'm just not happy with it. I may clean it all off and try something else. Somehow it just doesn't look as good to me as my Max 22S. It may just be because of the color of the valk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ignacio Ocamica Posted December 29, 2010 Share Posted December 29, 2010 I just did my usual of using the tamiya weathering kits. I haven't done a clearcoat yet because I'm just not happy with it. I may clean it all off and try something else. Somehow it just doesn't look as good to me as my Max 22S. It may just be because of the color of the valk. Looks awesome to me!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raptormesh Posted December 29, 2010 Share Posted December 29, 2010 Bought meself another 22 (Max) from the previous sale to compliment my Gamlin. Love these valks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derex3592 Posted December 30, 2010 Share Posted December 30, 2010 Looks awesome to me!!! I agree!! good job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reïvaj Posted December 31, 2010 Share Posted December 31, 2010 I just got the YF-21 from the HLJ sale. It’s a gorgeous design! Unfortunately my toy isn’t completely flaw free. The landing gears are a bit floppy and the wing joints aren’t very tight but nothing really serious, really. On the other side the canopy doesn’t stay open at all and the chest plate doesn’t lock… Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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